I have a Zero Compromise 5-27x56 mpct2 in Arc medium rings, tenebraex covers, sunshade and scope chaps. It is in good condition, slight ring marks. $3500 shipped and insured. Not going to split up. I take paypal f&f or g&s plus fees, venmo, cash app or zelle.

Few items im not using anymore, Shipping is $10 each on top of price listed.


1 - TR kydex holster for p320 x5 (1.5inch belt loops) - $50
2 - APA micro bastard gen2 9/16x24 (6.5) (brand new) - $100
3 - Little crow worlds finest trimmer 223 - $40 - SOLD
4 - Giraud tri way trimmer 308 - $60 - SOLD
5 - 6cm modified case - $Free - just pay shipping. - SOLD
6 - Amp Pilot #10 (BR cases) - $10
7 - RRS barricade stop - SOLD

Removed my first barrel of my Remy la 300wm. Bought it a while ago as a trued barreled action by a smith in PA. Low round count ~200. Unfired by me to date.

Main reason for disassembly was that the recoil lug was not properly clocked and it annoyed me. It also gave me a reason to make a barrel vise. So I proceed and make one to disassemble the action and really examine the quality of the truing job. The removal turned out to be a bear of a job! Rosen, paper, brass shims, Mapp heat- nothing worked but I persisted (thank you, 4 ft cheater bar) until I got it apart...2 hours later.

I have a new GAP M40A5 spec rifle for sale. I ordered this rifle from GAP a number of years ago and I have never shot it. Looking to move it along. Rifle was built by Mark Hall. At the time of order, McMillan was not offering the older style 2 screw cheek piece system. When they were selling the conversion kits (2 screw system), I bought it with plans to send the stock back to McMillan to have them install. I never got around to it but will include the kit with the rifle so the new owner can do that if they wish. Rifle is built to spec minus 2 details; 1. cheek piece screw system (have kit for buyer), 2. Black Cerakote instead of black oxide (GAP only cerakotes). Will include 1 5rd magazine, QD sling swivels, and TIS cuff sling. There is currently a long wait time on these from GAP. There is one small mark on PGW rail from safe.

Price: $5500 shipped to your FFL.

First "I'll take it" trumps any PMs. Buyer must be willing to completed a Bill of Sale and their FFL must be willing to accept from an individual. Payment can be made thru Zelle, Venmo, Money Order or check (check must clear before rifle ships). I might consider paypal.

I am looking for a mid-power (3-18 ish) scope for 800 yds and under target shooting and station hunting use.

Max budget is $2,000.
I believe I have narrowed it down to these three:
Mark 5 3.6-18
Razor Gen II 3-18
Burris XTR-III 3.3 - 18

most important:

- optical quality ( I’m very sensitive to CA)
- turret ease of use
- build quality
- FFP

not as important to me: weight, reticle

My questions:


1) I have handled the higher power versions of the Mark 5 and Razor, but I can’t find the mid range versions locally to see. Am I giving up anything major on optical quality with the 3-18 versions of these scopes?

2) of the three, which one would you go for and why?

3) Am I missing any obvious other options in the price range that would do better for my needs ?

Thanks,

GB

Had a rifle build planned and need money for something else. This is a new 700 S/S short action,accurized with PTG o/s reamer/tap(1.075 dia) id. threads,8-40 scope mount threads(nightforce 1 pc.20moa mount).PTG .7015 dia.1 pc. bolt,sako style extr,ptg Greytan F/P assy.,Badger ord. bolt knob Rem.700 pro-x trigger(adjustable) tactical solutions O/S recoil lug. Action will need bolt raceway reamed for new oversized bolt. $550 shipped

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Save shooting my AR at 200 yards, I'm brand new to long range; just bought a B14 BMP in 6.5 CM, because of course that's what beginners get.
Anyway, I'm having some accuracy issues and can't afford $55 a trip only to chase my zero, like I did my last two range trips.
Here's what happened today. Because my ability to hit shit at the end of last range trip was FUBAR, I started by confirming what I thought was my 200 yard zero for Sierra MatchKing at 200 yards. I did this with 3, 2 round 'strings'. The hits in each string were nice and tight and close enough to fine tune a true zero. Except, when I threw a three round string at the target, my POI was quite a bit off from where I expected it, with a looser pattern than if I'd used a 12 gauge. So, being pissed about not hitting shit, I hammered 3 and 4 round strings until I finished the box of ammo (20 total rounds), with a couple of smoke breaks to cool myself and the gun. Shit was all over the place. Here's my question, followed by what I think is the issue. Can you get a barrel sufficiently hot in 20 rounds of 6.5 CM, slow fire to screw the pooch on accuracy?
BTW, my scope and mount are tight, with no changes from last range trip.

My ask is to potentially eliminate one cause in order to confirm what I think is the real one. The can I'm using on my gun is a Form 1 I built for use with my long 556 AR, and was bored fairly tight to that caliber. I really wanted to use this can, because it's the one best suited in my can library (nice big blast chamber, all heat treated baffles). I sourced a 6.5 alignment rod and everything just fit...barely. I'd attempted to disassemble the can multiple times to bore the cones larger, but the thing wouldn't budge. What I think is happening is the heat is expanding the cones, making the bores tight enough to screw my accuracy.

Any commentary / first hand experience on either front would be appreciated. In the meantime, the can in question is being boiled for an hour in the hopes of finally breaking down the Rocksett, so I can disassemble and re-bore.

Tikka t3 action

24” 1:7.5 twist Rem varmint carbon wrapped Rock creek barrel

Threaded 5/8x24

Has blended radial brake.

I’ll leave the 0 moa rail.



Mountain tactical bottom metal.

Hells canyon Mag (very hard to find)

Trigger has been tuned to 2lbs even, no creep at all

Bolt can be operated with safety on

Upgraded Aluminum Shroud

Upgraded bolt handle and knob



All painted metal is tungsten.



Adjustable JCS stock

14” LOP



As pictured with an empty mag, 7lb 10oz



Also note the factory 147 eldm in the mag. A lot of room left to load the heavies out.



Rifle was built by Matt @ Pederson Precision



Rifles has only been fired 40 rounds.

Well under 1” at 100 with factory 143.

Hitting 4” plate at 400 every shot.



I’ll include 50 pieces of new Hornady Or Nosler brass to the buyer.



$2750 shipped and insured from individual



Thanks

Pat

Im infested with Praying Mantis this year but darned if they arent an interesting critter

As stated the actions is new and unused.
Comes with the additional round bolt knob.

Have two new TT Diamond 2 stage triggers as well if interested in an trigger $250 each shipped.

$1350 for action shipped to your FFL.

I have a Schmidt & Bender non-US 3-20x50, H2CMR reticle, illuminated, DT. Scope seems to be in great shape, and i find no scratches/flaws in the glass.

Sale on hold until i can verify scope features. insurance will be extra and paid by the buyer, if he wants it.

“Oh is that an AR-15? You need to get one!”
A once died in the wool liberal but she’s got some sense and she’s gotten into shooting since we got together. I was handling my dads PSA 5.56 when she made that comment.

I’m in the researching stage but wouldn’t mind some input. I don’t know how I’d like to set it up. I’d like to get into something for around $8-900 minus extra mags, ammo, etc. Any input on can/can’t live without? Things to look for/avoid?

Post updated for final AI for sale:

2013 AX338 folder Green. I have a very lightly used pre-13 AX338 in the more accurate green color for sale. Rifle was “fully loaded” with quick adjust LOP, cheek piece, and butt spike. It also has an adjustable butt pad. Rifle currently has a 27” 9 twist K&P barrel in 300NM that was spun up and installed by LRI that only has 45rds thru it. The barrel shoots extremely well. I also have the factory 27” 9.3 twist 338LM factory barrel and has about 195 rounds thru it. Rifle will come with either 1 338LM magazine or 1 300NM depending on the barrel the buyer wants. If buyer wants both barrels, both mags will be included. I will also include the action wrench needed to change barrels. Barrel changes take 5 minutes. PRICE: $5500 shipped with both barrels. $5100 shipped with one barrel. $4600 shipped with no barrel.







Rules: First person who posts “I’ll take rifle XXX” trumps any PM’s. I will respond to questions as they are received based upon time stamp. Please be patient as I am not on here 24/7. Purchaser must be willing to complete a Bill of Sale and have a FFL that is willing to accept from a private party. Payments may be made via Zelle, Venmo, Money order or check (check will need to clear before rifle ships).

Hi all,
I have $1,000 burning a hole in my Venmo account that I think I want to put towards my first non-hunting bolt action. and would love input from others.

I occasionally shoot a local $600yd match run by @Hoser with my 224 Valkyrie AR15, which has a Rock Creek barrel and is a consistent sub MOA to half MOA rifle with my hand loads. I am not yet a consistent performer/wind reader with this in the match as it is hard to get down to Pueblo every month with family obligations. I have been biding my time on a new rifle build as I eventually want to do a really nice rig with a Terminus/Bartlein/top tier optic. However, we keep doing things like home improvement, investing, travelling and the gun keeps getting put off a bit.

I am at the point where perfection is the enemy of good and want to get something built that I can use to keep improving as a shooter. I will rarely have the opportunity to shoot much past 800-1,000 yards and don't anticipate ever competing much past local or regional matches. I think in the long run a 6mm in the 6BR/X/A family would be a good fit for my needs. If I go the "custom route" do I do that or stick Valkyrie for now given I have all the equipment/supplies and it is $.10-$.15 per round cheaper for me to load? Is the Origin/GM $415 better than the Tikka option, is the Krieger worth the extra $200? Apologies for the dissertation, would love to hear what you all think and if I am missing an all together better option.


Option 1, $1,785:

• T3X CTR in 6.5CM
• KRG Bravo
• Yo Dave Spring
• MPA Scope Mount
• TBAC Brake

Option 2, $2,200:

• Keystone Origin Barrel Action with Green Mountain barrel
• KRG Bravo
• Trigger Tech Primary
• MPA Scope Mount
• TBAC Brake

Option 2, $2,400:

• Keystone Origin Barrel Action with Krieger barrel
• KRG Bravo
• Trigger Tech Primary
• MPA Scope Mount
• TBAC Brake

So I am slated to close on my fiancé and I’s first house on Monday and we want to repaint all the interior walls as they’re currently uglier than sin. We did some looking at Home Depot for some colors but I’m not sure how I feel about Behr or PPG. I have a Sherwin Williams next to the house we are in right now and was thinking about checking out their options and colors.

Those of you that have painted your homes, what paint brands have you used, what did you like or dislike about them and the experience over the years or months since painting with them? I want to do this once and while I don’t need a contractor grade paint, I also don’t want to hate my life while painting our home.

I appreciate any thoughts, experiences, and opinions on the matter!

So I know this question will bring a plethora of different responses but I want to get other opinions before I venture down the road of buying the following high end equipment and spending a lot of hard earned money. First I should preface this question with the fact that I'm the kind of person that usually goes for the high end on my initial purchases just because I enjoy quality. I'm actually pondering the purchase of a Vudoo 22 rifle right now but there are also some reloading purchases that I'm contemplating. I'm also wondering if there's an alternate route that saves me some money but would still achieve my reloading goals. So there are three pieces of equipment that I'm contemplating the purchase of and they include the Area 419 Zero press, AMP Annealer and the AutoTricker V4 with FX-120i scale. I've been reloading for several years on an RCBS Rockchucker and the Hornady APS progressive press (for pistol). My reloading goals are two fold. First to increase my productivity when reloading my rifle ammo by speeding up the process without sacrificing quality and my second goal would be to maintain enough accuracy (1/2 MOA or better) in my reloads to shoot long range competitions such as PRS. I'm shooting a MPA PMR Pro rifle in 6.5 CM right now. The alternates to the AutoTrickler that I think could save me some money and still achieve my goals is to add another RCBS Chargemaster 1500 or Chargemaster Lite (maybe two of these) to my existing Chargemaster 1500. Also wondering if one of the alternate annealers would do the trick for annealing.

Authority and Scope​

CDC has the legal authority to detain any person who may have an infectious disease that is specified by Executive Order to be quarantinable. If necessary, CDC can deny ill persons with these diseases entry to the United States. CDC also can have them admitted to a hospital or confined to a home for a certain amount of time to prevent the spread of disease.

or is this getting washed away?

Hello everyone! I've been into LR shooting for just about a year now and could use some guidance.

I'm running a bergara rifle with a gen 2 Pst and Nightforce rings. The rifle holds zero for the duration of every range trip, but when I head back to the range to confirm zero on paper, everytime the zero has shifted about 1 to 2 inches. I always confirm everything is torqued to spec. I also am using the same handloads as always.

It is a serious pain wasting ammo to re-zero every range trip and I'm at a loss as to what can cause this. I would greatly appreciate any guidance you can give to solve the problem.

I've searched for other threads on the topic without success. If you can forward me to a forum which covers this in great detail, it would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance!

I am torm between these two. Zeiss V4 in 4-16 and a similarly priced SHV in 4-14.
Not too picky when it comes to ffp vs sfp. Both have reticles I like. But of course I can't look through any of them..so thoughts and pros/cons?
Mostly used for 600yds or leas bench shooting in the desert, no low light conditions.

I'm looking at buying once, crying once for a 12g shotgun. Currently looking at Benelli m2, Beretta 1301 & Wilson Combat CQB Shotgun. Just wondering what others here would recommend?
Much appreciated

FIX for sale with Bartline/Tooley 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. I had Tooley cut the barrel down to 17”
and run heavy flat flutes down it.
This is a great light weight package and it runs perfect. asking $2950.00 comes with everything that it came with new in the box,
Q-Cert QD sling swivel, Knights 10rd mag, and the original box. Barrel has less than 300 rounds fired through it.
Scope and mount are available for $1550.00 with the purchase of the rifle.

I'd be very surprised if this hasn't been covered- I didn't find it searching, but probably am using the wrong terms-

Just getting into working with the lathe and am going to chamber a few practice barrels before I go at my expensive one. I was told by a guy that he just skips the "counter-bore" when working on a 700 and does it like a Savage. He claims that it doesn't cause any issue. With just a little thinking on it I came up with a few possible issues- (other than safety in a case failure). There would be less threads engaging the action- and it would probably make single feeding more difficult.

In any case I want to do it the right way- but it did get me thinking. When you guys do a Savage or a Bighorn with a shouldered barrel do you counter-bore them or is there something preventing this from being the case. Maybe not enough threads on the action or with the savage the locking lugs may be to large to give enough room. My Origin prefit looks like it would have room for it- but wasn't done. What say you?