What are you using to lube your tripod heads ?

My anvil 30 is getting gummy from storing in a vehicle all the time. Then cold weather really locked it up

For sale is a Tangent Theta 315M with Gen 2XR reticle. I purchased this scope used from the classifieds and it has just sat in the box because I went with the 315LRH for my hunting rifles. Time to move it to someone who will use it. Glass is clean and clear. Light ring marks on top of scope, I took pics to show. The scope is not indented, just lightly scuffed.

$3,000 shipped and insured. PP F&F, USPS MO, or personal check and I’ll hold till it clears.

Hornady 22 cal 88 grain ELD Match #22834. (85 count) $25 shipped
Barnes 30 cal 150 grain TTSX #30366 (33 count) $30 shipped
Berger 338 cal 300 grain HOTM #33109 (100 count, unopened) $105 shipped
Nosler 6.5mm 142 ABLR, 69 count (factory 1sts), 200 in sealed bags (factory 2nds) $100 shipped

All prices OBO. Discounts offered for multiple boxes to the same address.

I know they have been fighting for a long time but I recently started paying close attention and have browsed them web for stories, images, videos of the “front” to understand the conditions.

I was very surprised to see many brands that we discuss on the hide being employed in eastern Ukraine.

A Russian “fsb” sniper team with a suppressed ai axmc 338 with a nightforce scope

A female Ukrainian sniper with a cadex rifle topped off with a gen ii razor

Daniel defense, bcm and various AR’s

A Ukrainian sniper competition where I saw athlon, khales, vortex and nightforce scopes represented

I probably should not be surprised, but I am surprised to see our hobby gear getting put to real work in Ukraine. I was very surprised that the “fsb” team was using an ai, they also had a kestrel

If you haven’t looked, explore the web and see what is going on, looks like life is gonna suck a whole lot more in Ukraine very soon

The wood came from an old mantle above the fireplace in the house I recently bought. They were two 12 foot 6x4s. My wife took one look at the mantle and said shit has to go. It was stained dark brown and was just way too 80's. I had been wanting an old school built, no nails or screws, bench to mount my reloading stuff to and use as a general gun smithing/cleaning spot. So all tenon and mortise and pinned with a one inch dowel. So do I stain it or leave it in the white and let it develop character over time? Guns are for size visual. Its 4 foot by 22 inches.

From last night that asked the stupid sniper questions and wanted phone calls/information.

When I logged on today, it appears, not surprisingly... that the thread has been sanitized.

Did the SAW man get banned too? Probably best... for the greater good.

I'm not going to lose any sleep... figured the hammer was gonna fall.

I'm thinking of starting a lawncare business in the Louisiana area, but can't find a badass commercial mower. Does anyone know where I might find a slightly used commercial mower so I can cut grass for coonasses with precision? Thanks!

$3850 Shipped

***Bipods pictured not included, only used them to take pictures for ad.***

-Round Count: 260 Prime 130gr HPBT
-140 rounds prime 6.5 creedmoor 130gr HPBT (will ship separately)
-Tikka T3 action, ejection port lowered .100”, OEM trigger
-22” Krieger Barrel chambered in 6.5CM 1:8 Twist
-APA Little Bastard Brake Gen2
-KRG X-ray Chassis in Sako Green w/Spigot Mount, QD Sling Plate on left side of Spigot Mount, QD Cup installed on buttstock, Picatinny Rail section mounted on bottom of Spigot Mount, Barrier Stop
-Mountain Tactical Bolt Shroud
-Mountain Tactical Pineapple Bolt Handle
-3x 10rd Accurate Mags
-Spuhr ISMS ST-4701 7mil/24moa 34mm (direct mount to receiver, leveling wedge included)
-EGW 20moa rail (not installed, not needed with Spuhr mount)
-US Optics B-17 3.2-17 GAP / Red Illuminated Reticle
-AAD Mount Scope caps
-Bore Guide
-Dewey Cleaning Accessories
-10pack nylon bore brushes (1 used, rest new)
-Brass patch jag
-2x Chamber mops (1 used)
-Bag of 500 patches
-Case/shooting mat (Pictured, it's a cheapo ~$50 amazon one, nothing special)\

ORIGINAL POST DOWN BELOW
**EDITED TO ADD**

Ok so I think you guys pretty much convinced me to go all out and install pillars. There is actually a very close family friend with a drill press and so long as he lets me use it, I'm sure I can get the holes drilled in perfectly square.

I think some of you mentioned drilling the stock for the pillars with some bit of extra clearance so this makes me more comfortable. My action is going to go into the stock with the pillars and screws already on it so the pillars will be square (accidentally bedding pillars not squared was my initial concern) to the action regardless and the bedding compound will fill whatever clearance was in the stock on the pillar holes.

Having said that, I still have some concern. The front action screw is right on the integrated recoil lug. This means the pillar is going to sit deep in the recoil lug inletted part of the stock. Will this be problematic or cause inconveniences in the bedding process? Maybe I'm just overthinking it.

I plan to pretty much do it the way @iceng described. Drill out holes for pillars in stock, drop the action in with pillars and screws attached to it, and let the bedding do its thing. I'm just trying to make sure I can prepare for anything different that this particular type of action may require (being that it's front action screw is where it's at).





ORIGINAL POST STARTS HERE:


Hello all,

I will be taking on a project very soon. I will bed a howa mini into a boyds laminate. I'm very self-inclined to work on things myself and enjoy it for the most part.

This is really just going to be a budget build for hunting texas deer inside 200 yards and to be used as a truck gun. I also don't have a drill press to make pillar holes perfectly straight into the stock. For these two reasons, I will not be using pillars.

I feel confident to do the whole bedding myself. One of my biggest concern is putting the screws in. I plan to plug the action screw holes on the action with a bit of play-doh after I've applied some release agent in them. However, when I set my barreled action into the stock, I'm sure some of my bedding compound is going to flow into the screw holes on the stock. So long as my screws are covered in release agent, I will be perfectly fine to do it this way?

And what release agent have you guys found to work best?

I bought a set used and they are set up for weaver rails, can I rotate the lug and it fit tighter on a pic rail? Maybe a updated cross bolt lug?
Thanks

So recently got my GAP 6gt and was loading the first rounds today and had an issue I haven’t had before.

The brass is collapsing at the neck under seating pressure. I never got the bullets close to seating and the brass just collapsed. I tried one, thought it was a fluke, had it happen again, then even ran the mandrel through a neck again to be sure and went real slow and it happened a third time.

You can see the three pieces. It’s virgin Hornady brass purchased from GAP and with a .2415 mandrel run through it. The bullet barely made it past the boat tail.

Am I doing something wrong here? I haven’t been loading a long time but never had this with the 308 rounds I’ve loaded. Though I’ve never started with virgin brass, always once fired factory brass.

Any help appreciated.

Like with the Foundation, now that I found what I was looking for, I won’t need another 6.5 comp in my life. Never fired it as I picked it up here with only 10 rounds through.

23 inch straight taper, threaded, bolt lapped. Standard remy trigger.
P
500 shipped to your FFL. PPFF

Just looking for some safety shoes, steel or composit toe, that would work for mostly office work. I have plenty of boots, but need some shoes that I can wear in the office and walk to areas that require safety toe shoes.

So as far as Danners seem to fit my feet the best and was leaning towards the Danner Blackbelt shoes. However I'm looking for opinions and USA made counts for a lot. Budget is $200, but can go up if needed.

Is this what is really wanted? Arguing with the ref and complaining about bad calls is part of the game. Who are you going to throw popcorn at? Everyone wants the game to be called accurately but to what extent?

In case anyone cares.

Conclusion: Atomic's "match" ammo isn't match-worthy. Federal's 175 variety is this rifle's favorite. Federal's 168 is a very close second.
Rifle: Savage 12FV (factory 26" barrel) in MDT XRS with Nikon FX1000 6-24x50
Caliber: .308 Win (all of this factory ammo has Sierra MatchKing bullets)
Distance: 100 Yards (outdoor range)

All 5 shots...

Loser: Atomic 168 gr .308 Match
I fired a total of 20 rounds of this ammo. Or tried to. 4 of them had dud primers. Another guy at the range with a .308 hunting rifle couldn't get the duds to fire, either. Anyway, this was the best group I could get. No perceived pulls despite the one off to the left. Perhaps this is intended somehow for a AR-10?



__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

2nd Place: Federal 168 gr .308 Match
The one "flyer" doesn't have a shooter excuse that I remember. I have had better groups from 168s. (The hole above is from my 22LR during its sight-in.)



__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

1st Place: Federal 175 gr .308 Match
I'm calling these as the winner (barely) because the one off to the right was for sure a pull (I flinched thanks to a 450 Bushmaster with a break right next to me) and this wasn't my best grouping of the session (just the one I took home). Versus the 168s, I do consistently get slightly smaller groupings from the 175s. It's almost a toss up. In this case, it only looks like 4 shots when it was actually 5; middle hole is actually 2 "impacts".



Didn't really notice recoil differences between the 168 vs. 175 ammo. Heavy gun, though.

Can anyone explain to me why the NRA needs 76 elected members on the Board? How can they get anything done? It has to be grossly inefficient.

Hey all, just upgraded my ccw to a p320 X compact and was looking for a new holster. I’ve run cheap alien gear in the past but I wasn’t happy with them. Also had a Mtac for my glock 19 that I liked a fair amount. What do you guys run?

I carry on my right side about 3:30-4 O’ clock

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I've read that all Tikka actions are long actions with bolt stops to accommodate the certain caliber. Is that true?
If so, would a smith be able to easily convert it from SA caliber to LA caliber?
If also true, can it be easily converted to a caliber with a bigger bolt face diameter or would it require a different bolt face?

I'm tripping, keeping it for now.

About 3 months ago I bought top of the line scope. (I don’t want to use the manufactures name because they’ve been great). I mounted it on my 6.5 creedmoor with ARC m-brave mount, torqued to 49inch pounds. (It’s the fixit sticks limiter I had). I took it out to shoot for the second time and after I took a shot the lens cracked. I’ve never dropped it or hit it on anything. I couldn’t figure out how it happened. Luckily the company fixed it no questions asked. I walked about wondering if it was because I went from warm to cold and that’s what caused the crack (who really knows)… but here’s where things have done south…it happened again today. Same situation. Going from hot to cold and shooting for prone. It cracked on the 3rd shot. I’m speechless. The mag ring, parallax ring all move freely. There’s not a scratch or ding on the scope. No ring marks. Has anyone seen something like this or have any good ideas? This scope is one of the top 3 brands..

This dude is comedy gold
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No need for a shot timer when an hourglass will do
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Pixelated face.....of course.
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What the fuck is this?
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