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Annealed brass opinion

Whether or not the color change 'shows' - and how much - has a fair bit to do with the surface condition of the brass at the time of annealing. I - and many others - have taken cases from the same batch, ran them through the same annealing process, some showed a color change, some didn't. One could argue that the color change was still there, just faint. Maybe. Don't care.

I'll take my AMP code over some visual 'looks good' setting every day of the week. Way less variability.

Maggie’s Socially UNacceptable Humor

Whoohoo a late night funny one...

Who Makes the Best Switch Barrel Rifle?

Hmmm is this your chassis?

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View attachment 8695462

I would be sorta surprised if the rail on that would bolt on perfectly upon any old R700 clone action. Seems made to bolt on the Cadex COX-R7 action?

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Edit: maybe I’m wrong. The compatibility chart they have lists Remmy rail screw sizes…
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In any case, it looks like you can remove the rail section that goes over the action so perhaps then the chassis would work with any R700-based action?
I'd 100% do that but I want the continuous top rail.

I do wonder if terminus would mill me a Zeus action without the top rail lol.

Winchester 52C Bullgun

That appears to be factory checkering...or at least the same pattern as seen in the Houze book. Don't see many/any rifles like yours out here in western Kansas. The only Win 52s I ever saw out here belonged to a group of smallbore shooters in the Goodland area that had an indoor league they shot during the winter. And one of them was a corpsman that went ashore in Normandy on D-Day, then became a civilian doctor who practiced in Goodland. Thanks for posting the photos...
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Annealed brass opinion

Lapua Brass Case New ; So perhaps Lapua needs to speak with Amp . :ROFLMAO:

A round about way of explaining it but Factual none the less is ; Luckygunner video . Fyi : EVERY single Rifle bottleneck cartridge or case regardless of manufacturer ,is partial annealed . Some manufacturers simply polish their cases longer after annealing to minimize it's discoloration process . Look close enough and it's ALWAYS THERE . NO Difference ,Induction heating or flame = 1275-1350 Deg. F and discoloration .

https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/annealing/
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You're right about what manufacturers do to the cases, either the polish away the evidence of annealing or purposefully leaving some color as evidence the the annealing (like Lapua does).

It's not hard to get rid of the "color change" after annealing. Like when I annealed some 277 Fury cases in prep for necking them up to .308's. Here's a pic of 10 cases that weren't cleaned after annealing that I loaded up to fire form and the other pick of cases that looked the same until after annealing that I wet tumbled for 25 minutes :giggle::
6.8x51 Hybrid  sized to .308 for testing.jpg
6.8x51 Hybrid cases wet tumbled.jpg

What do you consider the Gen 3 Razor of Rangefinding Binos? Specifically with PRS/NRL in mind.

In range finding binos, the Sig Kilo 10 K gen 2 is my choice. The optics are a lot better, better clarity and less blue tint, than the gen 1. The laser is excellent as is the onboard AB Elite and linking with other AB devices. The buttons and menus are pretty easy to use, and it’s the only rangefinding bino where you can adjust the LED reticle to closely match the actual alignment of the laser

AR-10 is chewing up my brass

The long longitudinal scratches are probably from your magazine feed lips.

Your primers have a raised rim around the firing pin indent but your primer cups still have a radius and are not flattened, while the case head has flowed slightly into the ejector hole.

I would stop using Hornady brass in an autoloader. In fact I've stopped using Hornady brass in all calibers since my experience with 5.56, 7.62, and 338 Lapua shows their brass alloy is soft.

I don't see any major problems yet. Use a small base sizing die and change out to military Lake City, Winchester, or PMC cases and see if you get the same markings.