I am using a Dillon 1100 with their trimmer.

This way I deprime, remove primer crimp, trim and then M Die for the neck.

For the 300 Whisper/Blackout, same deal other than a Bosch router for the trimming.

All that hooked up to a Mk7 autodrive.

Ttt, bag riders and thumb shelves available too.

I’ll take a pair

Payment already sent. Scammers, please stop.

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Tokay444 said:

I torque to 150 and would go higher if my action wrench was rated for higher.

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If you get something like this, it will increase the amount of torque applied. Snap on make them as well.

This should be a link with a PDF to calculate the additional torque.

Ah, moving the goal posts... Why can't people just man up and accept when they said something dumb. lol Its not hard.

Tokay444 said:

Now drop it and repeat the test.

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1. I haven't had issues.
2. If you have issues, tighten it down with your mk1 hand?
Are you still standing by its the most critical fastener for the rifle's main task of putting a hole in a target? You should do some actual testing instead of this theoretical game.

I've been transparent that for consistency, I still use a small wrench to apply torque (~30lbs). If you can provide testing that shows 100+ ft/lbs is required for optimal performance, then lets see it. My testing gives me confidence in my tiny wrench on dot drills and surviving tractor rides. My AI is torqued down even more.

Tokay444 said:

Define, "work fine".

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POA = POI

powdahound76 said:

We had a clock radio so we could get the weather live during tornado season when I was a kid.
No other radio or TV at all.

Figured out about age 13-14 that I could get Dr Demento early Saturday AM out of one of the radio stations from Omaha.

Heard some great and funny stuff.

Great songs like “I Hear the Screams of the Vegetables” and “I Wanna Drive the Zamboni” are still cracking me up 30+ yrs later!

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The proper name of "I hear the screams of the vegetables" is "Carrot Juice is Murder" by the Arrogant Worms.

Tokay444 said:

They absolutely are. It’s a 60° thread.

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Hand tight.

NateVA said:

I confess I've been a bit anxious about my Tikka's prefit being put on at 75 ft/lbs. I didn't put it on and would have to spend a decent bit to get a vise/torque wrench/action wrench if I wanted to do it at 100 ft/lbs though. Is there a good way to test whether it's an issue? I remember Morgan Lamprecht and some other guys testing chassis issues by hitting their barrels with a rubber mallet to see if it would zero-shift due to improper stock/action contact.

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It’s fine.

Tokay444 said:

Name a more critical fastener on your rifle than that one which contained 60,000psi plus of pressure.

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I dont know about this line of reasoning...We see hand tight barrels work fine, but no way in hell would I go hand tight on my scope base or rings. As long as the headspace is correct, you dont even need all of the threads on most tenons to be able to handle standard pressures. Consistency is the main reason for the torque discussion.

I am still in the camp of people should do their own testing, or crank the fucker down if you don't want to test and never think about it. One of my rifles gets a snug of a wrench, one isn't coming off without access to a vice.

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Maybe I missed it previously but are you using a suppressor with this upper?

Tokay444 said:

Try and measure how much torque it takes to thread that barrel out with the set screw still tight. I bet you max out your torque wrench.

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But why?

I get your point, don't get me wrong. I'm just stating that one doesn't have to crank a barrel into the receiver with simian-like strength and intellect in order to retain zero or prevent a cold bore shift.

$250

Reduced

What height is the mount?

Tokay444 said:

Try and measure how much torque it takes to thread that barrel out with the set screw still tight. I bet you max out your torque wrench.

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But the threads/shoulder of the fastener are still not loaded in tension, or at least not “proper” tension for the “fastener” size.