Well a couple of you have asked for a build guide for our M40a1 take off stocks. I am building an accurate clone, and learning as I go. I am by no means an expert, but I'm trying to find the right information just like many of you. Please post if it directly pertains to a the topic at hand or better yet just email me so we can keep the information condensed.

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So I recently built a kinda sporterized K31 target rifle (don’t worry, i bought all parts separately, so no K31 where hurt). Last saturday I got to test it and shot a 0.5 MOA group at 300m. Now i kinda want to put a scope on it. The scope should be from the 30s to 60, maximum 1 inch in diameter, shouldn’t have an objective bell and a minimum of 3.5x magnification. I want to mount it with a custom mount to the 11mm rail (where the diopter is mounted now) on the left side of the receiver. Any recommendations?

Removed these from my SBS. Barrel was cut/crowned to 12.5", cerakoted graphite black, had the Vang Comp port system, and gold bead sight installed all done by Vang Comp. Chisel Machining 870 stock still looks new, has RMR mounting plate on top and kick-eez recoil pad, compatible with any Remington 870 as far as I'm aware.

$400 for the barrel
$300 for the stock

Are they decent ?

Not much out there (high end ) barrel wise for 350 legend

Hey guys, a while ago there was a guy on here that was machining a new insert for the front of an AICS Chassis to replace the spigot receiver with a rail section that extended out a few inches.

Anyone have a link? I can’t seem to find it.

My spigot has a little play that is driving me nuts. Also, not interested in the Big Dog mount. I want the unit that requires you drive the pins out and replace the entire piece. Thanks.

For those that are new to (or not acquainted with) the Pit, it can be a rough and tumble place. While not everything is allowed, it is a place for shooting the breeze, expressing opinions on non-shooting related topics, and a place to blow off steam. But lately there seems to be some misunderstandings about what is expected when diving into the Pit. A member wrote this, and I thought it was worth sharing...

"My views on the pit are like that of a rowdy bar...

1) You don't have to drink at the bar, you can always find a Starbucks.

2) If you're new to the bar...you're gonna get fucked with.

3) If you say stupid shit at the bar...you're gonna get fucked with

4) If you think you're better than everyone at the bar...you're gonna get fucked with.

5) If you can give and take a few punches...and laugh about it later...you've earned a seat at the bar.


Essentially, don't walk into the Titty Twister...order a banana daiquiri...then rage quit when people start busting your balls."

You should have a thick skin while venturing into the Pit, but there are rules...play nice.

I've always wondered why the '03 seems to have been so much more popular for use as a match rifle than the 1917(during their heyday: 1910's - 1950's or thereabouts when the Garands and M14's completely took over High Power - Service Rifle, and Model 70's/40X's/etc completely took over High Power - Match Rifle, 3x600, prone, long range prone, etc)?

Is the '03 simply a more inherently accurate rifle(IMO a valid question, because the '03 receiver was WIDELY used in the Mann Device for ammo accuracy testing and whatnot for like 100+ years)? Or was it a case of the '03 simply having sights more conducive to competition/precision in general/etc? Or...??

There were FAR more 1917's produced vs '03s during WW1(along with commercial variants eg: Remington Model 30 & Winchester Model 51 Imperial). And they consequently played a far bigger role in the US war effort than the '03 did, in the 1st world war...esp. if you count the P14.

I ain't aware of any commercial '03 variants(aside from the M1922 and the DCM Sporter if ya wanna count them?)?

TL;dr/summary: why no 1917 National Match Rifles? Why so few custom 1917 target rifles?
(Yes I'm aware of Comfort's winning the '35 Wimbledon Cup w/ a custom .300 H&H 1917 {{and @sirhrmechanic 's amazingly beautiful clone/recreation of said rifle, or was that you, @buffalowinter ?}}.

Regardless - my point/question still stands; the '03 dominated the Nat'l Matches up until the Garand NM and Don McCoy's match conditioned Garands were born.. and the 1917 was perceptively very rarely used in comparison. Why is that?

Thanks in advance gentlemen.
God bless & best regards!

I'm clearing out a bunch of stuff for a new ELR build so here is some of it.

#1: Aero Precision M4E1 Enchanced Pro Series Complete 5.56 AR Upper - 16.3" Cold Hammer Forged Barrel, Pro Series BCG, Mid-Length Gas System, Breach Ambi Charging Handle, Enhanced Handguard.

$650 Shipped (SOLD)


#2: Aero Precision M4E1 Pro Series Complete 5.56 AR Upper - 13.7" Cold Hammer Forged barrel, Pro Series BCG, Mid-Length Gas System, Breach Ambi Charging Handle, R-One MLOK Handguard.

$500 Shipped


Both Uppers are brans new in the box, un-fired. No trades, post here and PM if you want one.

This is a Custom bench rest target BMG. New with 7 test rounds fired. $10,000.00

Built by Doyle Englin of Dixie Guns in Winder GA
Action: Bat Machine .50BMG
Barrel: 36" Lilja 1-15 Twist, 2" OD no taper (thats not a typo, the barrel is a 2.000" OD no taper)
Break: AAC Cyclops Break Adapter
Design: Bedded barrel block with floating action and barrel
Trigger: Remington 700
Base: 40 MOA cant
Stock: Sled style stock designed and built by Doyle Englin
Rests: (included) .50BMG Cobra Magnum rest (two additional rear saddles not pictured)
Weights: Rifle - 53lbs, Front Rest - 42lbs, Rear rest - 16lbs, additional rest parts - 8lbs.

The part of the zermatt origin bolt (firing pin) that connects with the trigger has become loose and I can wiggle it
back and forth and am not sure if/how I'm supposed to tighten it? I'm guessing that hole is
where the set screw is, but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten it while inside the bolt like in the first picture
or remove the firing pin and tighten the screw while not in the bolt like in the second picture? If anyone knows how
I'm supposed to tighten and service the firing pin/bolt let me know.
Thanks,

Vortex PST Gen II 5-25x50 5257 EBR 2D MRAD FFP 30mm tube.
This is a Gen 2. include vortex bubble level. Was mounted on a Anschutz 22lr.
$525 shipped. or best offer

Has ~60 rounds through it. Built by Bill Tomkins at GAP.

Specs

Action: Surgeon 591
Barrel: Bartlein GAP #7 contour 24" 1:11.25 TW
Stock: Manners T4 multicam cerakote, adjustable comb and versa pod-8 stud
Badger DBM
Jewell Trigger
Surefire 762SSAL/RE Brake

Scope: Schmidt & Bender 5-25x56 Police Marksman II LP P4F

Willing to sell scope separate, but rifle must sell first.

$7000 OBO.

I've got a weaver k 3 on my m1903. I feel like I could do a lot better shooting with a better scope... but then ... it's a m1903. I don't really want sone crazy scope on there. What would be a good scope that would look right on it.

Im on the fence that a leupold 3-9x40 with cds dial would be the best model scope that would look right on it.

Vortex Razor 1-6 (non-e model). MOA reticle. Reticle stadia has hash every 4moa. Took this to 613y last week. Aging eyes require more magnification. Excellent condition. Only mark is a scratch on windage cap. Comes with Seekins mount. $950 shipped. Can face time or take a call for inspection / questions. PayPal, Apple Pay or Venmo. Trades for quality MOA optic with more magnification considered. Trijicon RMR adj. type 2 1moa dot also needed.

Guys.....rules. If you have a problem with a listed price, send the seller a PM, or use the report button. If you report something and it doesn’t disappear, take that as confirmation that the item or post is g2g.

Do NOT crap in the thread. I’m tossing out very short bans instead of the normal 1-2 weeks just to get the point across. If it continues, they will be the longer bans.

If someone wants to pay gouged prices, that’s their business.

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I am looking to sell My Accuracy international ACMC .308 Winchester barrel. It is 18.5 inches long 1-10 twist 5 groove Proof Research barrel chambered by Win tactical. I purchased this barrel from Mile high and had it coated FDE. it is brand new. The round count is 0! I am asking $750.00 shipped. I would like a 24 inch 308 barrel if anyone would like to trade.

ARC rings 34mm 1.26 height.
I believe I have the box .
$145 shipped

I have these new in pack OBI units and will not use. So &135 shipped.
Pm with questions

I have a Benelli M1 super 90 that is stamped with H&K. I still have the box and I never use it. Originally was purchased for helicopter hog hunts but don't use it anymore. I am asking $1,100 plus shipping.

Starting with the basic SP10 rifle as it came from the Factory with the standard rifle length gas system.



First with the bad.

Unfortunately the version I received had the Rifle Length Gas and no matter of fine tuning with the Gas or buffer weight could fix the abuse it played on the brass and crude cycling and bolt bounce that started premature wear on the rear of the bolt lugs.


The OEM Timney trigger had substantial and very noticeable creep when doing a slow controlled trigger pull so I replaced it with a TriggerTech AR10 Diamond. When I first received the rifle it had a bent gas tube that was binding inside the gas key of the BCG. I didn't care much for the barrel contour after the .750 gas block journal it would step down to .730 to the muzzle and seemed to suffer from poor Barrel harmonics and substantial barrel whip.

After encountering these issue one phone call to Seekins they completely revamped the rifle no questions asked with the exception of the barrel as it was thier current barrel offering and it was still shooting satisfactory, but bar none Seekins Customer Service is one of the best in the industry.

Now for the positives.

The Receiver Set and handguard have been phenomenal to date and after several thousand rounds the receivers still lock up tight with absolutely no slop. The 15" Handguard is perfect for shooting from barricades and fits a Arca rail perfectly.
The ATC Muzzle brake was surprisingly effective with maintaining sight recovery.

Out of the box as it originally came it maintained .75 MOA with all Harnady ammo but had unexplained flyers.

At this point I decided to pull the barrel and BCG and replace it with 22" Craddock Bartlein with the +2 gas system headspaced to a JP Bolt, APA Gen3 Little Bastard adjustable muzzle brake and a Lantac Carrier with the oversized rear boss and forward facing gas vents and a SA AGB. The end result is the softest shooting 6.5CM I've even owned.

The results were nothing short of spectacular.



But unfortunately the gas port in the the Craddock barrel took a catastrophic turn for the worst and developed a burr at the gas port that was unrepairable.



After contacting Craddock the current wait time for a barrel replacement would of put me 12 months out, but again with exceptional customer service Paul issued a full refund.

At this point instead of waiting 12 months I opted to go with a 24" Proof Research Carbon Fiber barrel that has shown to be a solid performer right out of the gate the PRCF barrel shot .5 MOA with Factory ammo.


After a healthy 200rd break-in the PRCF has become one of my top performers. I initially had some hesitation with how the barrel was performing with the groups opening up especially under high heat. It turns out is was just mirage causing sight disruption the illusion of the groups opening up.

First round of load development.


The below groups were shot today solidifying several load options that are all Sub .5 MOA




The Seekins SP10 has shown to be a true performer no matter what tube I install.

To date Seekins has rectified the earlier discrepancies with the addition of a + 1.5 Gas system and a updated bolt. I have absolutely no reservations recommending the SP10 to any shooter.

Thanks for reading.

Jake

I posted this in the 5.56 thread, but no one seemed interested in discussing it there. This is therefore a re-post.

Summary: bullets jump when slammed into battery in a semi-automatic action. I tried increasing "neck tension" and crimping. Increased neck tension did not stop the jump. Crimping did not stop the jump but seemed to limit how far it continued. We should expect some jump because a hard stop into battery works just like an inertial bullet puller. Is a crimp into a crimp groove necessary to limit this jump, or is neck tension on a bullet without a crimp groove sufficient? Crimp grooves can be detrimental to accuracy if they're formed by smashing the bullet (maybe not if cut on a Swiss lathe, but we like less costly bullets).

My die is setup with a bushing to size LC brass necks to .243" and then pull a carbide expander ball through them to leave an OD of .244". When I seat a bullet, the OD is .0246". This would be commonly referred to as two thou of "neck tension." The amount of tension also depends on how much of the deformation the brass undergoes when the bullet is inserted is plastic and how much is elastic. My brass was brand-new Winchester brand from Lake City, fired and resized only once by me. I haven't messed it up with improper annealing nor have I work-hardened the brass neck by resizing it many times. I'll refer to this two thou delta between sized and seated as two thou of neck tension with the understanding that there's a little more involved there.

Bullet Jump
With two thou of neck tension and no crimp holding the bullet, I measured the overall length and then let the action on the rifle strip it from the magazine and slam it into battery with the muzzle pointed down. I measured it again and saw the bullet had jumped 1 thou. The cartridges I'm using for these tests have no powder or primer. Because the rifle has a floating firing pin, I did not want to be trying to induce a slam fire. I'm not surprised the bullet jumped because when a semi-automatic action accelerates the cartridge toward the chamber and then abruptly stops when the breech closes, it works just like an inertial bullet pulling hammer hit against a hard surface. Newton's first law explains why the bullet, once accelerated, will continue in motion even if the brass is stopped. Friction in the brass case neck is the only thing stopping the bullet from continuing until it hits the lands, unless it is crimped. The friction was enough to allow the bullet to jump only one thou. However, I repeated chambering the same cartridge several times and the bullet continued to jump 1 or 1.5 thou each time.

Crimp Test
Next, I used a Redding micro-adjustable taper crimp die to crimp the case of a different cartridge in the bullet's crimp groove. I repeated the process of measuring the overall length, chambering the round with the full force of the action, and measuring how far the bullet jumped. With the crimp, the bullet still jumped a thou. However, when I repeatedly chambered the same cartridge, the bullet jumped a total of three thou and then stopped moving farther with subsequent chamberings. I suspect the edge of the crimp groove slid forward against the crimp, and that it would take more force to push the crimp open.

More Neck Tension
To get more neck tension, I first removed the carbide expander ball from the die. Now the brass would be .243" before seating the bullet and .246" after -- three thou of neck tension. I also selected a different brand brass, a Speer nickel-plated case, and after sizing it with the .243" bushing without expanding it and then seating a bullet, it measured .247". The Speer case's brass is thicker in the neck -- four thou of neck tension. I repeated the tests on uncrimped cartridges and found the bullets would still slide forward about a thou every time they were slammed into battery. The bullet in the Speer case continued to jump as far forward as eight thou with repeating chamberings.

Crimp + More Neck Tension
I resized cases and seated bullets with 3 and 4 thou neck tension, and this time I also crimped them. I repeated the tests. I found the bullets would jump a thou, and after repeated chamberings they had jumped about three thou. After that, they would not jump farther.

Conclusion
My results suggest to me that increased neck tension will not stop bullet jump. I don't have more bushings to test 5 or 6 thou or more of neck tension, but at some point seating the bullet is going to plastically deform the neck so that it is not actually holding the bullet under any additional spring tension than that which is achieved with a larger bushing.

My results suggest a crimp will not stop all bullet jump, but that a crimp into a crimp groove can limit bullet jump to some smaller distance within the groove provided the inertial force on the bullet does not overcome the crimp. Certainly, my hammer-style bullet puller will overcome the crimp.

Not all bullets have a crimp groove. Many more accurate bullets do not because pressed crimp grooves deform the bullet and result in poor mass concentricity and wobbly bullets. Perhaps crimp grooves cut into a solid bullet on a lathe do not create this problem. Certainly, bullets into which a crimp groove is smashed by a Factory Crimp Die do. For bullets without a crimp groove, it seems best practice not the crimp them and to be aware they can jump some when slammed into battery by a semi-automatic action. If they jump one thou, that doesn't seem to be a big problem to me.

If a bullet has a crimp groove, a taper crimp of the case mouth into the groove can help limit the distance of bullet jump from the cartridge being slammed into battery. However, unless the cartridge is expected to be repeatedly slammed into battery many times, it's not clear that any benefit is derived from the crimp since the crimp is not likely to prevent the 1 or 1.5 thou the bullet is likely to jump upon being chambered the first time, and any ability of the crimp to limit further jump upon additional chamberings won't matter after the cartridge is fired. It could matter more if the recoil spring rate was greater. The M249 uses a piston operated gas system with a greater reciprocating mass, fires from an open-bolt, and has a higher rate of fire that is expected to be sustained for longer. It is highly likely therefore that it has a higher recoil spring rate, and that the cartridge is accelerated to a higher velocity before it is stopped in battery.

Questions

• Do bullets in 5.56x45 cartridges jump when chambered in your semi-automatic rifle? If so, how much?
• How much delta is there between your sized and seated necks?
• Do you crimp your cases when the bullet has a crimp groove? If so, taper or roll?
• If you crimp your cases, why do you do so? Have you done any tests to verify that it is effective?

Vortex 30% cert. Expires soon. 4/16/25.

$75 to me and I’ll send a picture of the other side.

New never used only removed from the box for pictures $125 . Going to keep it.