<newbie, apologies in advance for any stupidity>

Wondering how folks think about what I am beginning to see as four "categories" of elr bolt action rifles. For context, I am looking to get into long range shooting after a bit of a drift off into mostly pistol related sports and activities. I am trying to judge the value tradeoff and decide what to buy. Would appreciate thoughts on how to think about this if accuracy vs. price is my only focus. I am willing to spend $3-5k or so if I am really getting better accuracy than say an RPR, don't care (much) about weight, appearance, custom colors, etc. Expecting to shoot in the 1,000 yard range mostly.

1) Your basic bolt action like the Rem 700 and clones. Sub $1,000 off the shelf. Sub 2 MOA maybe out of the box? I have one of these already.

2) Factory rifles designed for elr shooting, but "low end." RPR. Christensen MPR. etc. Right around the $2,000 mark +- $500. Sub 1 MOA out of the box?

3) Factory rifles, but high end. Christensen TFM. Tikka. AI. Barrett, etc. Typically >$5,000. Maybe sub 1/2 MOA? The TFM is "guaranteed" < 1/2 MOA.

4) Hand made custom rifles from one of say a dozen top class high end builders. Probably would buy one used here, looks like $3,500 - $10,000 is the range.

I was wondering if getting a muzzle threaded in reverse and getting some TBAC NT and CB brakes made with reverse threading would be possible. Seems like a better idea than reverse threaded cans if it was easy to do, seeing as I spin my cans on and off repeatedly but hardly ever remove the brakes. Any thoughts on this?

$70 for the Hawkins rings. Tactical ultra light 30mm low height

Login to view embedded media I saw this and wow its zippy. 5,220.8 fps. They say that they maxed out the garmin c1. So whos gonna build one and give it a go. This tickles my fancy but not high on the list cuz my plates full learning still lol.

Arizona > Your State

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Came on a hunting rifle I bought. Has been used in a McMillan /r700 clone.

Not sure of brand. Grayboe I am told. Seems to work fine. Looks used but no signs of abuse.

Switching to flush fit.

125 shipped as I don't know Much about it.

6 dasher proof prefit for impact.
26 inches
5/8x24 thread
7.5 twist
Comp contour
375 shipped.
Brand new.
I ordered it directly from proof.

Just too good to be true:

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A couple of real gems as politicians...................

Question for anyone who has used these scopes side by side.

I am thinking of downgrading my gen 3 6-36x to an LHT 4.5-22x, mainly to save weight. The 6-36x has features I don't really need such as a quick rezeroing, loads of magnification, loads of elevation travel, and an exposed windage adjustment. I appreciate these features it's just that I can live without them.

Things I don't want to lose out much on are optical clarity, low light performance, easy to use illumination and elevation adjustments, and an easy to see reticle.

I find on 6x the gen 3 reticle is a bit difficult to see unless it is illuminated especially in bushes and what not. I had thought the LHT had a thicker reticle but it seems to be identical which I find a bit concerning for a scope that goes down to 4.5x. Also the illumination control sounds weird to me and I haven't seen what the rev indicator looks like if you go above one rev/6 mrad.

Would I be disappointed in making this transition based on my criteria?

Osprey Valley Works - patriot valley arms barrel. Brand new, no rounds fired. $625 shipped $550 shipped.

26”
1.20 straight
6 groove
7 TW
0.274 neck
0.105 FB
5/8 thread

Has anyone used these seconds bullets? I have had good luck at 100 yards but at 300 yards my groups open up.

Queremos cambiar el cañón de este rifle y no ha sido posible desmontarlo. He leído que se ensamblan por construcción. ¿Alguien tiene idea a qué se refiere esto y cómo desmontarlo?

$50 shipped

Selling my Steiner T6xi 2.5-15 as the title says. It's in perfect working order, no blemishes that I can see. Glass is excellent. It just so happened to end up being a spare so I might as well let it go.

Asking $1350 1250 shipped

I have seen examples of some of your budgets - one of you need this.

I am wondering about the new Sako TRG 62 and similar rifles in 375 Cheytac versus something potentially in the 338 class like the 338 Norma or that new Swiss round. I run a 300WM now so, my next option is something larger for >1,000 yards that won't kick like a mule every time I shoot it. I will likely also get a suppressor for it. The M200 Interdiction rifle never did much for me nor did a 50BMG rifle which can be had much cheaper.

Is 375 Cheytac viable in today's market? Specifically, is it an obsolete caliber that will be hard to support? Or, I am better off with a hot rod 338 option? I expect to handload my rounds so, factory ammo is only viable to harvest brass assuming it is cost-effective to do so. 338's are probably a lot easier to source or fireform from something more common in the commercial market so, that is a thought for something else in terms of caliber. In any case, I would like to stay supersonic to at least 1600 yards with an appropriate load.

For the base rifle, I'd like to stay in the $12K range. Optics and other stuff would be additional once the base rifle is chosen.

So, is the 375 Cheytac really viable today? Or should I be looking at 338 options based on Lapua or similar brass "base" cartridges? I don't want to end up with something obsolete like some of my African Safari rifles. I also don't want to have >$20 per round in what I am shooting. $10 to $15 would be much better.

TIA,
Sid

This is a catch and release for me. I bought it for a 223 project that I sold so I don’t need this anymore.

4-20 Burris XTR II Mil/Mil FFP SCR reticle.

$475 shipped with the one piece wheeler mount included.

$425 shipped without the mount.

No trades unless you want to trade a 35mm mount or rings between 1” and 1.135”.

I am trying to step up my game for precision long range. I have had pretty good results from my reloading but want to explore ways to make it even beter. One of my first thoughts was to have a custom sizing die made but not sure how to go about that.

Would i just fire 5-10 rounds using new brass and send them to someone to have a custom sizing die made?

If this is not off base, should i do that with normal loads or hot loads?

Looking for advice and pointers of who can make the custom die.

Got this mounted up but never used it. Optic comes with its throw lever and factory scope caps.

$1300 for the optic.

$1750 as pictured mounted in a Geissele 1.30" Super precision mount, Reptilia DPP adapter and Leupold DPP 2.5moa

What are your Go To choices for Suppressed 300 AAC Blackout factory ammo, for use with a gas gun?

Accurate, clean and consistent velocity. Low Flash is a bonus, but I believe its usually already baked into the powder for these ammo. I can tune for reliability, and I have purpose made 300 Blk mags.

For use with 1:7 to 1:8 twist rate, not the really shorty 1:5 twist. Let's say 10" or longer barrel, something that will at least burn most if not all of the powder to help with the velocity consistency.

What do you recommend?

Brand new in box Proof Research carbon 24 inch 6.5 creedmoor barrel, for Terminus Zeus QC action. $700.00 or make an offer.

Lightly used (200 rounds) Zermatt Arms RimX action (.22LR), 30 MOA rail, pre-fit Proof Research 16.5 carbon fiber barrel threaded (1/2x28).

Last range session produced sub-moa groups at 100m with Lapua standard SK.

I've lost local range access and this just isn't getting shot anymore so it needs a new home.

I have over $2,400 in the barreled action and magazines. (before tax and shipping)

$1,700 shipped, from my local FFL to yours, for barreled action and two x 10-round RimX magazines.

Trigger not included.

USPS money orders, certified check or discreet electronic forms of payment accepted.

IM/email for any questions.

For those who own the Swaro EL Range, I am curious to know your workflow when forcing the binos to match your dope. After some tweaking, I was able to get it to read spot on to 1k, but it wasn't without trial and error, so not sure if there is a better way or if this is even the "correct" way, but I do have it reading spot on with my real world dope using this method. Let me know if you see any issues.

1. In the EL Range app, I assured all applicable info was correct. a.)choose any mil based Swaro scope that matches your non-swaro optic in adjustment value b.)input height over bore c.)Conditions: I am assuming this is zero conditions, so I input the temp and elevation where I obtained my zero d.)Zero Range set to 100 yards, MRD set to off.
2. Ammunition: Use database to select bullet (for me 175g ELD-X), go immediately to "Expert Mode" and enter your air and temp reading and input difference between measuring points (for me, 300 yards: MV=2762 and 300 yard velocity=2456) as measured by chrono.
3. Shoot at 300 yards, then at 600 yards. 600 yard actual impact needs .2 mil more mils then what the Swaro reads. So I go back in and tweak my initial MV by -5% and my 300 yard velocity by -5% and then the Swaro is reading the same as my real word DOPE.
4. Move out to 800 and 1000 yd. Again, I need .2 mils more from the SWARO app to match my real 1000 yard Dope. The BC that the Swaro app calculated after I entered my tweaked MV and 300 yard velocity was .418. I go in and tweak that number down to .398 to get the 1000 yard reading to match real world DOPE.
5. Real DOPE and Swaro EL Range now match up from 100 to 1000 yds.

FWIW, The problem I had, and eventually abandoned, was that I attempted to correct the Binos initially using the "Elevation" feature in expert mode rather than the "Bullet Velocity." Fortunately for me I was shooting where I could get actual velocities all the way out to 1,000 yards, but the elevation feature would/should be far more handy as you don't need a chrono. You are supposed to be able to enter your drop data, in inches, between two points. I would input my drop in inches at 600 yards, but it always spit out something insane, like 14 mils. I am not sure if this feature is broken, or there is another way to use it. I used 500 yards as my distance between two points, 100 yd zero and 600 yd drop. I just couldn't get anything remotely close to actual my actual DOPE.

Went to check cameras today on my property in southern Indiana (northern Clark Co) that had been hanging since mid-August. I found two cameras with chewed-on straps, and a third with a chewed-on strap that was missing its motion sensor. All three cameras were no-glo StealthCams (G42NG and G45NG).




Checked the card in the camera with the missing motion sensor and guess what I find?




These three young coyotes evidently decided eating fawns wasn't enough, they were gonna eat $100 trail cameras too. Here's the best pic of them, but they were on the other two cameras with chewed-on straps as well.




We've had this property for over 8 years with between 6-10 cameras up at any time, and this has NEVER happened. Now its three cameras fussed with in a one-week period (early Oct) by the same group of bored-ass juvenile deliquent yotes.

Anybody experienced this before from coyotes?

I hope to introduce them to Mr. NAP Spitfire or Mr. 108gr Elite Hunter if they come across me in stand in the coming month.