Dillon Super 1050/RL1050/RL1100 Loading

Tell me one thing before I buy 3 of these. Are they easier to set and find the magic sweet spot vs the oem. I have cussed the paint off the wall a couple times after a detail cleaning trying to dial that sweet spot in again. Lol
 
Tell me one thing before I buy 3 of these. Are they easier to set and find the magic sweet spot vs the oem. I have cussed the paint off the wall a couple times after a detail cleaning trying to dial that sweet spot in again. Lol

I followed their setup directions video for the first one. Was super easy to setup. Zero issues
 
I have decided to take the plunge and automate one of my 1050’s. Have one RL1050 and two S1050’s. My goal is to begin with simple brass processing in 9mm and .223. Will start with 9mm. Plan to size, deprime, swage, and prime as a starting point.

My budget is 4k. Features of the mark 7 look good. One thousand rounds an hour is my goal.

Please share your experience on installing and running an Autodrive.
 
I have one of my 1100s set up with a Mk7 autodrive. But I dont do any priming on it. Just deprime, swage, trim and resize.

I can process pistol brass around 3K an hour. Rifle around 2K.

FL resized and roll sized brass loads so much easier. Much easier on my arm/elbow/shoulder.

I like to feel the press when seating primers. That way if something hick-ups, I can stop and not light off a tube of primers. Knock on wood, after over 30 years of 1050s and 1100s, I have yet to do that.
 
I have decided to take the plunge and automate one of my 1050’s. Have one RL1050 and two S1050’s. My goal is to begin with simple brass processing in 9mm and .223. Will start with 9mm. Plan to size, deprime, swage, and prime as a starting point.

My budget is 4k. Features of the mark 7 look good. One thousand rounds an hour is my goal.

Please share your experience on installing and running an Autodrive.
The Mk 7 Autodrive will handle that; just understand that in addition to the cost of the Autodrive are the costs of all the additional sensors. I believe the Autodrive only supports the S1050.

Also understand that under automation, adjustments are critical for smooth operations. When something goes wrong under automation, it can get ugly pretty quick. Start slow and work your speed up as you begin to understand and get comfortable with things. Warning though, automation is a rabbit hole that's easy to get sucked into. Next you'll be looking at roll sizers, and autodecappers...AMHIK. :D

ETA: And you'll also begin to understand how outdated the Dillon design is (and where they cheap out on things).
 
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My 1100 is automated. Make sure you get a primer sensor or be prepared for powder spillage is going to happen eventually.

I’m torn. I have had more headaches after automating than before but I also push it 1500 an hour and do single pass loading. It’s the random failures from crushed primers, crooked projectiles or crushed cases that make me want to kick a fat kid.
 
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I'm running 2 toolheads. Case prep toolhead with lanolin light spray that deprimes, swage, sizes, trims, 21st Century mandrel to get final neck tension then M die to flare for MBF on loading toolhead. Then I tumble...then I load with fully prepped and tumbled brass on my loading toolhead...
Do you ever wet tumble or only dry tumble after brass prep
 
Do you ever wet tumble or only dry tumble after brass prep

I wet tumble rarely. Only time I wet tumble is large batches nasty/dirty/tarnished range pick up or 1x military brass...

Once I process brass, I generally don't ever need to wet tumble it again...

I dry tumble fired brass then dry tumble processed brass to remove lube
 
My mark 7 auto drive was delivered today. Tomorrow is going to be a happy day. Torn between installing on an RL 1050 just back from a factory tune up or a Super 1050. This will be a dedicated brass processing machine. All it will be used for is decap, resize, swage and prime.
 
I was thinking to myself it would take a while but i should decap all my brass before tumbling.

Do you know any companies that process or sell processed 223 brass. I have everything to do it but dont know of i want to dorty up my loading 9mm press processing 223 brass.
 
My mark 7 auto drive was delivered today. Tomorrow is going to be a happy day. Torn between installing on an RL 1050 just back from a factory tune up or a Super 1050. This will be a dedicated brass processing machine. All it will be used for is decap, resize, swage and prime.
I was under the impression that the Autodrive was for the Super 1050 only(?).
 
I was thinking to myself it would take a while but i should decap all my brass before tumbling.

Do you know any companies that process or sell processed 223 brass. I have everything to do it but dont know of i want to dorty up my loading 9mm press processing 223 brass.
Depends on how much brass you're processing. Rollsizer makes an auto-decapping machine....
 
Or that ratcheting dealio on the back of the tool head. You can use the spring, but all it does is keep the toolhead from crashing if you disconnect the autodrive.
 
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What are the nylon bushings?
It took some digging, but I finally found it. Here is where I ordered mine. If you need another tool head, I have one of those from them as well. It’s nice.

 
It took some digging, but I finally found it. Here is where I ordered mine. If you need another tool head, I have one of those from them as well. It’s nice.

Thank you for finding that i just actually purchased one of there toolheads and the same bushing a few weeks ago actually will be using them soon.
 
It took some digging, but I finally found it. Here is where I ordered mine. If you need another tool head, I have one of those from them as well. It’s nice.


Nice find. I didnt have to go dig through my emails! hahaha

Im also using the OPM bushing and CNC toolheads on both my 1050's and they are AWESOME.
 
I ended up with a bronze bushing on my 1100.

And yes, OPM toolheads are awesome. I have been switching over as time/energy/money allows. 15 toolheads is no small investment...

Thankfully I dedicated both my 1050's to 5.56 and 9mm so only 4 OPM toolheads for me... 1 processing and 1 loading toolhead for each.

I have probably 20-25 for my 650 and another 15-20 for my 550. Hahaha..
 
Thankfully I dedicated both my 1050's to 5.56 and 9mm so only 4 OPM toolheads for me... 1 processing and 1 loading toolhead for each.

I have probably 20-25 for my 650 and another 15-20 for my 550. Hahaha..
Is the hold down space needed for processing or just loading?

I was thinking 1 opm for loading and 1 dillon t/h for processing?

I ditched the 650 all together. Just 3 1050s a 550 and theres a rock chucker somewhere.
 
I was working on my 223 Ackley loading marathon on my Dillon 1100 when I learned something new. After 25+ years of loading on these machines, a new curve ball.

My machine started getting stiff and I traced it to the primer slide. I thought the track was dirty. After cleaning it with acetone and compressed air the slide was still dragging.

The new generation of 1050s and 1100s have a new primer slide (Dillon part #7 and 7A) assembly. The new one has a small bronze bushing held in place by a screw. The old version was just a roll pin and a chunk of plastic tubing.

Turns out the screw that holds the bushing in place was working out and causing the slide to bind. So I pulled the screw, degreased it, put some purple locktite on the screw and put the press back together. All better, running like a champ again.

Below is old vs new primer slide.

oBdGAYK.jpg
 
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Im really looking forward to getting one of these for my dedicated 9mm automated 1050!! Can now kick those press jamming 38 S&W cases out of the shellplate!!

 
Does anyone know if you can replace the dillon powder measure with one from another manufacturer or if there's a way to upgrade it?

I've dropped in the baffle, polished the bowl and slide, and a few other tweaks, but there's still powder sticking in the gap between the cast housing and the press fit powder drop tube. I've tried to fix that before as well and wound up ruining the housing.
 
Does anyone know if you can replace the dillon powder measure with one from another manufacturer or if there's a way to upgrade it?

I've dropped in the baffle, polished the bowl and slide, and a few other tweaks, but there's still powder sticking in the gap between the cast housing and the press fit powder drop tube. I've tried to fix that before as well and wound up ruining the housing.

Get these and dont look back. I have put them on all my Dillon measures.

 
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Get these and dont look back. I have put them on all my Dillon measures.

I was working on my 223 Ackley loading marathon on my Dillon 1100 when I learned something new. After 25+ years of loading on these machines, a new curve ball.

My machine started getting stiff and I traced it to the primer slide. I thought the track was dirty. After cleaning it with acetone and compressed air the slide was still dragging.

The new generation of 1050s and 1100s have a new primer slide (Dillon part #7 and 7A) assembly. The new one has a small bronze bushing held in place by a screw. The old version was just a roll pin and a chunk of plastic tubing.

Turns out the screw that holds the bushing in place was working out and causing the slide to bind. So I pulled the screw, degreased it, put some purple locktite on the screw and put the press back together. All better, running like a champ again.

Below is old vs new primer slide.

oBdGAYK.jpg
Thanks for the posting and the photos. The upgraded slide should help. My best upgrade was switching to the FW Arms Prime Time assembly completely replacing the stock Dillon primer assembly on two of my 1050s. I am not sure if Dillon bought the intellectual property for the FW Prime Time at the same time they bought the IP for FW Decapper - which is truly exceptional! In any case, the Prime Time is not currently available on the FW site.
 
Does anyone know if you can replace the dillon powder measure with one from another manufacturer or if there's a way to upgrade it?

I've dropped in the baffle, polished the bowl and slide, and a few other tweaks, but there's still powder sticking in the gap between the cast housing and the press fit powder drop tube. I've tried to fix that before as well and wound up ruining the housing.
Lacking x-ray eyes, I surmised that part of the reason for powder charge inconsistency was that some of the powder was sticking on the internal ledges created by the powder slide mechanism. I ordered two of the springs that used to be standard for the powder measures shipped with 650. The purpose is to add additional force to the slide motion. The additional force seems to clean out the powder area - at least the charges are more consistent. The springs go around the end of the slider and the bottom of the measure. One was all I needed.
 
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Im really looking forward to getting one of these for my dedicated 9mm automated 1050!! Can now kick those press jamming 38 S&W cases out of the shellplate!!

Thanks for posting the case sorter announcement. At this point on my 1050 dedicated to 9mm, inverted cases from the case feeder are the biggest single interruption. Fortunately not too many, but it always takes a couple of minutes to clear the jam. Looking forward to your review once you get one set up. Given the calibration mechanism it looks like it would 9x17 and 9x18, as well as .38 Sp.
 
Lacking x-ray eyes, I surmised that part of the reason for powder charge inconsistency was that some of the powder was sticking on the internal ledges created by the powder slide mechanism. I ordered two of the springs that used to be standard for the powder measures shipped with 650. The purpose is to add additional force to the slide motion. The additional force seems to clean out the powder area - at least the charges are more consistent. The springs go around the end of the slider and the bottom of the measure. One was all I needed.
I'm swinging by dillon later today to pick up a new powder measure housing, I'll see if they still stock any of those springs as well. thanks!
 
You can ONLY use the old spring OR the return bar. You cannot use both at the same time. This is directly from Dillon and was the cause of an issue I was having...

They said either take off the return bar and just use the spring.. or just use the return bar and no spring.

So I removed the spring and im only use the return bar. And im dropping super accurate charges and no spillage. I have highly polished hoppers, bars and internals and Micrometers on all my powder hoppers. (There a full thread and pictures of what I did to my hoppers around here somewhere from years ago)
 
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You can ONLY use the old spring OR the return bar. You cannot use both at the same time. This is directly from Dillon and was the cause of an issue I was having...

They said either take off the return bar and just use the spring.. or just use the return bar and no spring.

So I removed the spring and im only use the return bar. And im dropping super accurate charges and no spillage. I have highly polished hoppers, bars and internals and Micrometers on all my powder hoppers. (There a full thread and pictures of what I did to my hoppers around here somewhere from years ago)
I'll see if I can track down that thread and dust off my dremel.