Parallax and focus not same on Razor G3

Drbobinmo

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Minuteman
Feb 11, 2017
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Springfield, MO
Just curious if others have seen this. At the range yesterday with my new Razor Gen3 and had targets at 400 yards. Set parallax to 400 and it was removed, dot didn’t shift as I moved my head.

But image was not crisp. If I turned parallax knob to best focus, I was on about 120 yards and yes dot did move so parallax was not removed.

Not a huge deal when parallax set correct but would still prefer the crispest image possible when set properly
 
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It’s extremely unlikely that the 400 mark on the knob had anything to do with focus or parallax at 400 yards. That mark is totally arbitrary. There’s also less likelihood of true parallax beyond about 300 yards. At some point out there, that knob becomes a focus knob instead of a parallel knob. I suspect you were beyond that point at 400 yards. At 100 yards, when you dial out parallax error, is the image in focus? Pay no attention to the number on the knob when you do this.
 
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I would use the parallax to focus on the image, then check parallax. If it’s off then adjust diopter until the parallax is gone and then see how the reticle looks to you.

Also, just because the knob says 400 yards that is just an approximation. Usually not a great one. I wouldn’t trust that number at all.
 
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I am no expert, but I do believe that sometimes a scope can be out of adjustment, where the only time one gets a parallax-free image is when the image is a bit out of focus.

This assumes that one ignores the focus dial markings and has the diopter adjusted correctly.

In that case you’d have to ship it back to get it fixed.

@koshkin ?
 
Yeah to follow up, as others have said, do you ever get a clear image regardless of where the parallax is set? If the answer is no, I would look at the from glass and make sure it is clean. If this faile Vortex Cudtomer Service is said to be spectacular.
 
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I am no expert, but I do believe that sometimes a scope can be out of adjustment, where the only time one gets a parallax-free image is when the image is a bit out of focus.

This assumes that one ignores the focus dial markings and has the diopter adjusted correctly.

In that case you’d have to ship it back to get it fixed.

@koshkin ?
Chances are that the eyepiece is not adjusted correctly.

ILya
 
It’s extremely unlikely that the 400 mark on the knob had anything to do with focus or parallax at 400 yards. That mark is totally arbitrary. There’s also less likelihood of true parallax beyond about 300 yards. At some point out there, that knob becomes a focus knob instead of a parallel knob. I suspect you were beyond that point at 400 yards. At 100 yards, when you dial out parallax error, is the image in focus? Pay no attention to the number on the knob when you do this.
I do understand that those marks are arbitrary but point is that at the point I removed parallax is not the same point that image has best focus. When image has best focus, parallax is present.
 
I do understand that those marks are arbitrary but point is that at the point I removed parallax is not the same point that image has best focus. When image has best focus, parallax is present.
I find it helpful when I set up a scope to first adjust the diopter, but then I have to get on a target and focus the target, then fine tune the diopter to get the parallax correct. I’m not sure if my eyes just focus too fast to get the crosshairs right the first time or what, even though they look crisp and in focus to me.
 
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When you are setting the diopter on an FFP scope, turn the mag down so the numbers and features in the reticle are just barely small enough for you to make them out. You can get a proper adjustment this way, per the videos @koshkin made about this subject. If you mag all the way up, its too easy for your eye to resolve the reticle due to its size.
 
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