Lucas Gun Oil
- Thread starter Nelius88
- Start date
I too got some with my CA rifle and then ordered more. I use it from FA to semi to bolts and it works well.
i bought some of the lucas extreme duty gun oil. seems tacky/stringy to me and i don't care for it.
on actual bolts i was told to use bearing grease and that seems to work pretty good with a very light coat. for actual gun oil in my AR's and semiauto handguns i've been using and like wilson gun oil.
on actual bolts i was told to use bearing grease and that seems to work pretty good with a very light coat. for actual gun oil in my AR's and semiauto handguns i've been using and like wilson gun oil.
I *really* like it.
I was always a fan of the little bottles of (clear) RemOil with Teflon - it's extremely light stuff that disappears quickly but supposed contains a fair amount of PTFE that stays behind ... I always like using it and occasionally a little Hoppe's which is more general-purpose.
However - on Thanksgiving maybe 2018 (me and my father have been going ammo shopping on Thanksgiving afternoon for a few years now ... halfaced tradition) I picked up a bottle of Lucas Gun Oil from Rural King on a whim ... I always liked Lucas fuel treatments and figured I'd give it a try ... awesome stuff.
It's bright, deep red though - and heavier duty than something like RemOil. It's not exactly grease but I'm just saying, it's noticeable when and where you use it.
But I found it to be outstanding on 1911 and SIG pistols, even on Glocks (which don't really require much heavier than RemOil to be honest...) and started trying on rifles and shotguns, really like it. I just used it for the first time a week or two ago on my new Tikka T3X UPR and seems to be great.
So, in my unlearned experience, I really like it! I would definitely try other Lucas gun products. (I'm a fan of diversity - I have Hoppe's products, Remington products, Breakfree CLP-etc. I like a variety.
I was always a fan of the little bottles of (clear) RemOil with Teflon - it's extremely light stuff that disappears quickly but supposed contains a fair amount of PTFE that stays behind ... I always like using it and occasionally a little Hoppe's which is more general-purpose.
However - on Thanksgiving maybe 2018 (me and my father have been going ammo shopping on Thanksgiving afternoon for a few years now ... halfaced tradition) I picked up a bottle of Lucas Gun Oil from Rural King on a whim ... I always liked Lucas fuel treatments and figured I'd give it a try ... awesome stuff.
It's bright, deep red though - and heavier duty than something like RemOil. It's not exactly grease but I'm just saying, it's noticeable when and where you use it.
But I found it to be outstanding on 1911 and SIG pistols, even on Glocks (which don't really require much heavier than RemOil to be honest...) and started trying on rifles and shotguns, really like it. I just used it for the first time a week or two ago on my new Tikka T3X UPR and seems to be great.
So, in my unlearned experience, I really like it! I would definitely try other Lucas gun products. (I'm a fan of diversity - I have Hoppe's products, Remington products, Breakfree CLP-etc. I like a variety.
i love it. although i will be honest and say i have not had the opportunity to use it in cold temps yet.
OP, I have not had a problem using the stuff and use it whenever I get it for "free", but it does have a pretty strong odor.
I have it and have used it. It comes in a gun oil and an extreme duty gun oil. Not being a chemist, all I see is one is thicker than the other. The extreme duty says it will neutralize acids from fingerprints. I use them both but can't comment on their superiority when compared to other manufacturers.
The extreme duty says it's good from -38F to 400F but it's so sticky at room temps, I don't know if I'd trust it in sub freezing temps. The regular is just like any other gun oil, possibly lighter, so I wouldn't have any concerns in trying that in sub freezing temps.
Are you sure you're talking about the same stuff? The regular oil states that it's odor free and I don't smell anything. The extreme duty has just a touch of an odor but not much at all.
What's Really in Gun Cleaners and Lube? - Real Gun Reviews
In almost every gun forum I’ve participated in, practically every question or discussion regarding firearm cleaning and lubrication products quickly descends to the same inevitable result: a stream of “sounding off” about what each shooter uses personally, an explanation of why they love it...
www.realgunreviews.com
I've used the extreme duty for about three years now. I used to use it for my ARs, but switched to grease from CherryBalmz. I mostly use it on the bolt body for my bolt actions, and down the bore after a clean. It does become sort of sticky if not reapplied after about a month. I am looking to move to a dry film lubricant.
But like others have said, oil is oil, grease is grease. It's all the same, pick what you like in the viscosity of your choice.
But like others have said, oil is oil, grease is grease. It's all the same, pick what you like in the viscosity of your choice.
What's Really in Gun Cleaners and Lube? - Real Gun Reviews
In almost every gun forum I’ve participated in, practically every question or discussion regarding firearm cleaning and lubrication products quickly descends to the same inevitable result: a stream of “sounding off” about what each shooter uses personally, an explanation of why they love it...
Many of these chemicals are also in a homebrew called Ed's Red. This stuff has been around forever. I got a copy of the formula dated 1995. Here's the writeup and components.
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"Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner... Home-Mix Really Works!
By C.E., "Ed" Harris Updated and Revised 9-29-95
Four years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" or "ER" bore cleaner
and hundreds of users have told me that they think this
home-mixed cleaner is more effective than commercial products. I
urge you to mix some and give it a fair trial, compared to
whatever you have been using. Competitive shooters, gun clubs
and police departments who use a gallon or more of rifle bore
cleaner annually can save by mixing their own, and they will give
up nothing in safety or effectiveness.
This cleaner has an action very similar to standard military
issue rifle bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Users report it is
more effective than Hoppe's for removing plastic fouling in
shotgun bores, or caked carbon fouling in semi-automatic rifles
or pistols, or in removing leading in revolvers. It is not as
effective as Sweets 7.62, Hoppe's Bench Rest Nine or Shooter's
Choice for fast removal of heavy copper fouling in rifle bores.
However, because "ER" is more effective in removing caked carbon
and abrasive primer residues than other cleaners, metal fouling
is greatly reduced when "ER" is used on a continuing basis.
I originally came up with this mix because I am an active high
power rifle competitive shooter and hand loading experimenter who
uses a lot of rifle bore cleaner. I was not satisfied with the
performance and high price of commercial products. I knew there
was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner
couldn't be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The
result is inexpensive, effective, provides good corrosion
protection and adequate residual lubrication so that routine
"oiling" after cleaning is rarely necessary, except for long-term
storage of over 1 year, or harsh service environments, such as
salt water exposure.
This formula is based on proven principles and incorporates two
polar and two nonpolar solvents. It is adapted from the one in
Hatcher's Notebook for "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but
substituting equivalent modern materials. I had the help of an
organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no
"surprises." The original Hatcher formula called for equal parts
of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and
optionally 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin added per liter. Some
discussion of the ingredients is helpful to understand the
properties of the cleaner and how it works.
Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized
kerosene. I recommend "K1" kerosene of the type normally sold
for use in indoor space heaters. Some users have reported
successful substitution of civilian aviation grade kerosene such as
Turbo-A. I am reluctant to "recommend" substitution of aviation
grade kerosene, because the effects upon firearm components of
the additives required in aviation fuels are unknown. Some "jet-
fuels" are gasoline/kerosene blends and absolutely should not be
used, because of their increased flammability.
An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II,
IIe or III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950
that most ATF's were sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic
was developed for use in precision instruments. With the great
demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was
no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so
the synthetic material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we
know today. The additives in ATFs which include organometallic
antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly suitable for
inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative.
Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum
spirits of turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today,
and is also an "aromatic" solvent, which is highly flammable, I
chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic mineral
spirits," a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning
oil based paints and also widely used as an automotive parts
cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral
spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
Acetone is included in "ER" to provide an aggressive, fast-acting
solvent for caked powder residues. Because acetone is an
aromatic, organic solvent, it is recommended that users leave it
out if the cleaner will be used in enclosed spaces lacking forced
air ventilation. The acetone in ER will evaporate, liberating
volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the atmosphere unless
containers are kept tightly closed when not in use. The cleaner
is still effective without the acetone, but it is not as
"fast-acting."
There isn't anything in Ed's Red which chemically dissolves
copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job removing
on carbon and primer residue than anything else which is safe and
commonly available. Numerous users have told me, that exclusive
use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old
impacted powder fouling which is left by other cleaners, which
reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore
surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces
subsequent fouling. Experience seems to indicate that "ER" will
actually remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak," so the
surfactants will do the job, though you have to be patient.
Addition of the lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely
optional. The cleaner works quite well and gives adequate
corrosion protection and lubrication for most users without it.
Incorporating the lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands,
and increases lubricity and film strength, and improves corrosion
protection if weapons will be routinely exposed to salt air,
water spray, industrial or urban corrosive atmospheres, or if you
intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage
of over 1 year.
If you use other protective films for adverse use or long term
storage you can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per
gallon. At current retail prices you can buy all the ingredients
to mix ER, without the lanolin for about $10 per gallon. I urge
you to mix some yourself. I am confident it will work as well
for you as it does for me and hundreds of users who got the
"recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS
#8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK
to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug
store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container.
NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK.
Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will
eventually evaporate. The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE,
causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate
the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double
boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin
it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with
the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.
I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of
the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible"
gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of
the remaining mix.
LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
RIFLE BORE CLEANER
CAUTION:
FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call
physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately
flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin
contact wash thoroughly.
3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or
spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this
product in a manner inconsistent with its labelling. Reports
have associated repeated and prolonged occupational
overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous
system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking
forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting
NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed
when not in use.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING
"Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:
1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear.
Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is
still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton
patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it
through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be
a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
back into the bore.
2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore
from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area
forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the
patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute
to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns,
leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with
bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This
is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine
use.
4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to
flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the
patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the
bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will
protect it from rust for 1 year under average conditions.
5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will
protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For
longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a
Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox
or Cosmolene.
6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing
the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel
finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood
finishes).
7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore
and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably
sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will
not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as
described.
8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is
used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is
unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate
primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and
shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot
water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy
fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a
thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which
could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good
practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using
chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
the corrosive residue out.
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This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all
current revisions, instructions and safety warnings included
herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.
Extreme Duty came with both a Sig and a Colt I picked up, and yeah it smelled stronger than the mobil 1 I put in my car.
I primarily use Wilson Oil which has no odor, so anything with an odor tends to jump out at me.
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....how much oil are you putting on your gun?....you need like 4-5 drops of oil max.
unless you have the nose of a blood hound, you arent going to smell that....fuck, i dont even think youd be able to smell 4 drops of Diff fluid..and that shit is rancid.
I've had surface rust show up on my carry guns. I'm a sweaty mofo, what can I say
Just don't do something dumb like I did. Hornady One Shot comes as a Cleaner/Lubricant and a Case Lube for sizing brass. The cans, at least for a good while, looked identical.
A friend had unknown to me, given me some of both. You guessed it. I tried lubing brass with the Cleaner/Lubricant made for cleaning guns. What a cluster!
Got a bunch of Lucas oil for free at some matches. Worked fine all summer. Come winter it turned into a toothpaste looking sticky stuff below twenty degrees. Asked around and a bunch of my shooting buddies that received the same free samples had the same experience.
I remember reading several years ago a critique by a Las Vegas gun shop/range that rented machine gun time and their best performing oil was Lucas Gun Oil, so I bought some for my semi-autos. I thought I bookmarked the thread, but I couldn't find it. Lube for a low-speed bolt gun may be a different story.
I'm literally sniffing an open bottle of Lucas Gun Oil right now, like I was trying to inhale cocaine of a stripper, and it has no discernable odor whatsoever that I can tell.
And to each their own - I never knock someone for liking or preferring one thing over another. I remember in the 2010-2011s how Frog Lube became a cool-kid item on the internet gun community. Cool , do your thing. Or how FireClean got outed as pure Vegetable Oil, and vehemently fought back - never actually denying that it wasn't actually vegetable oil... Hey, if that is what you like to use, do it up.
I also note the cold-weather performance ... important to some, not at all to others. I have been blessed with having a family that has always had very nice (being polite) vehicles in my family, with a heavy concentration on 4WDs... growing up in the Northeast, it was very important ... my Dad grew up on the beach and 4WDing on the beach was his thing as a young man, then learned the importance of 4WD and cold-weather vehicle equipment/maintenance/skill/etc. as a city police officer. Having moved to FL some time ago, the last thing on my mind for cars or guns is cold-weather performance. I am not driving in snow or shooting in freezing temps anytime remotely soon, if ever. If I do, I'll deal with it then. I say this, because I really couldn't care less if my gun-cleaning/lubing products aren't hi-scoring for cold weather. - OBVIOUSLY, others are much more interested in that area. I am just saying, not me.
And to each their own - I never knock someone for liking or preferring one thing over another. I remember in the 2010-2011s how Frog Lube became a cool-kid item on the internet gun community. Cool , do your thing. Or how FireClean got outed as pure Vegetable Oil, and vehemently fought back - never actually denying that it wasn't actually vegetable oil... Hey, if that is what you like to use, do it up.
I also note the cold-weather performance ... important to some, not at all to others. I have been blessed with having a family that has always had very nice (being polite) vehicles in my family, with a heavy concentration on 4WDs... growing up in the Northeast, it was very important ... my Dad grew up on the beach and 4WDing on the beach was his thing as a young man, then learned the importance of 4WD and cold-weather vehicle equipment/maintenance/skill/etc. as a city police officer. Having moved to FL some time ago, the last thing on my mind for cars or guns is cold-weather performance. I am not driving in snow or shooting in freezing temps anytime remotely soon, if ever. If I do, I'll deal with it then. I say this, because I really couldn't care less if my gun-cleaning/lubing products aren't hi-scoring for cold weather. - OBVIOUSLY, others are much more interested in that area. I am just saying, not me.
I like the extreme versions of the oil and the grease. My money is on the oil being their synthetic gear oil ala 90W-110 (Minus what ever makes the stuff sticky as well as the sulfur of what ever produces the old ass scent that comes with gear oil) and the grease being a synthetic bearing grease. If that is the case both are optimal (in my mind) for high pressure/high shear applications.
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Oil really gums shit up. Especially pistols. It attracts dust and grit into the trigger groups / “innards”. I’ve moved to using Hornady One Shot...which adds great lubricity but completely drys when applied. It’s night and day difference. A side benefit of One Shot is its ability to prevent corrosion.
For bolt lugs you just can’t beat MilComm TW25M. The slightest dab is all you need. On my Bat trilugs it’s almost a necessity.
For bolt lugs you just can’t beat MilComm TW25M. The slightest dab is all you need. On my Bat trilugs it’s almost a necessity.
