MK 12 Picture & Discussion Thread

The Polish 🇵🇱 Princess doing Mod 0 activities with @TheGerman and @GumbyActual

She did incredibly well for her first time doing long distance things. 50% IPSC at 530m. She went 3/5 with 2 mil wind hold.

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Anyone have leads on arms medium rings? I don't care about lever stop or not. No where has them in stock. Trying to find a set before I decide to let go of my high nls set.

Anyone have leads on arms medium rings? I don't care about lever stop or not. No where has them in stock. Trying to find a set before I decide to let go of my high nls set.
If you find the mediums, and sell your highs, I’d love a shot at them (ps: I’m not a cloner😂)
 
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Love the rifle, could you please detail the optic combinations and mounts that you chose for it?

March 1.5-15 Dual Focal Plane shuriken turrets

Badger Condition One mount, 1.5” height

Badger Condition One accessory ring cap

Badger Condition One Impact Rail (I started with the CLIF rail that they make for all diving board optics but the rangefinder was stupid high and goofy looking. The Impact Rail is specifically made for the very tall Vortex Impact 4000 rangefinders to sit lower but I found it fits the MRF perfectly, as long as you aren’t using it with tall clip-on night optics)

Wilcox MRF-Xe WMLRF

Pixels on Target VooDoo-S thermal clip-on, in a Unity Tactical CTM mount
 
You really don’t. I had to compromise a bit for mine. I settled for the wrong turrets. M1 turrets instead of M2 turrets.

A have a very good friend was with 5SFG from pre-Desert Storm(mid-80s) until 2011/2012, who used the SPR as he calls it (Mod0) extensively in Iraq and he used the 3.5-10 M1 and later the NXS 2.5-10 on his team rifles. The Mildot M1 is what he put in the Mod1 he has now.
 
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A have a very good friend was with 5SFG from pre-Desert Storm(mid-80s) until 2011/2012, who used the SPR as he calls it (Mod0) extensively in Iraq and he used the 3.5-10 M1 and later the NXS 2.5-10 on his team rifles. The Mildot M1 is what he put in the Mod1 he has now.
Even though it’s not “correct”, I think prefer the M1 turrets for the finer adjustments.
 
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Getting there. Still have to make my barrel but have the brake/collar, trigger, lpk and NOS Allen suppressor waiting. Hopefully the can clears soon, it's on a trust.

My wife surprised me with a h&r A1 lower for my birthday yesterday. She heard me talking about it but I decided not to spend the money since I already had a m4 lower sitting around. She's good to me.
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Getting there. Still have to make my barrel but have the brake/collar, trigger, lpk and NOS Allen suppressor waiting. Hopefully the can clears soon, it's on a trust.

My wife surprised me with a h&r A1 lower for my birthday yesterday. She heard me talking about it but I decided not to spend the money since I already had a m4 lower sitting around. She's good to me.
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That’s a good woman there buddy.

Form 4s individuals been clearing fast. But my trust stuff has still been months if it’s in indication
 
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SBRs have always been no more than a week for me on a trust. The suppressor I've seen and heard everything from 1 month to the normal 8-12 months.

My suppressor guy bought this AEM a while back from Ron with the intention of making a mk12. He never did and when I called he decided to let it go for me. I've stayed loyal to him since my first suppressor and sent him a lot of business and he's always found what I needed and never price gouged me when he easily could have. It's a good but expensive relationship 🤣

Need to decide what to do with these NLS high ring set now. Part of me wants to keep them but I don't think I'll ever use them.
 
SBRs have always been no more than a week for me on a trust. The suppressor I've seen and heard everything from 1 month to the normal 8-12 months.

My suppressor guy bought this AEM a while back from Ron with the intention of making a mk12. He never did and when I called he decided to let it go for me. I've stayed loyal to him since my first suppressor and sent him a lot of business and he's always found what I needed and never price gouged me when he easily could have. It's a good but expensive relationship 🤣

Need to decide what to do with these NLS high ring set now. Part of me wants to keep them but I don't think I'll ever use them.

NLS are only getting rarer. Keep em as trade fodder if nothing else
 
Ok. Been trying to figure this barrel out. I have a WOA spr barrel to work off of but I need this clarified.

Allen states 2.5" minimum from end of the muzzle to the start of the taper. When my brake and collar are on the WOA barrel I get 2.25". Is the measurement truely from the barrel crown or from the tip of the mounted muzzle brake? I can't imaging where I could make up the other 1/4" unless I lengthen the barrel dimension to 18.25".
 
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Ok. Been trying to figure this barrel out. I have a WOA spr barrel to work off of but I need this clarified.

Allen states 2.5" minimum from end of the muzzle to the start of the taper. When my brake and collar are on the WOA barrel I get 2.25". Is the measurement truely from the barrel crown or from the tip of the mounted muzzle brake? I can't imaging where I could make up the other 1/4" unless I lengthen the barrel dimension to 18.25".
Here is a print from otter creek labs, looks like they used Allen engineerings' print and just scratched out the name.
Second Pic is a measurement from my rifle with a WOA barrel. I get full thread engagement with my OCM5, so it's good to go
 

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Here is a print from otter creek labs, looks like they used Allen engineerings' print and just scratched out the name.
Second Pic is a measurement from my rifle with a WOA barrel. I get full thread engagement with my OCM5, so it's good to go
Kind of answers my question but now I have more questions lol.

When my gas block is mounted I need to ram my collar practically against the gas block to get that 2.25". Are you running a short collar to have that gap between the back of your collar and front of your gb?

Either way looks like 2.25" will be fine.
 
Kind of answers my question but now I have more questions lol.

When my gas block is mounted I need to ram my collar practically against the gas block to get that 2.25". Are you running a short collar to have that gap between the back of your collar and front of your gb?

Either way looks like 2.25" will be fine.
It's been like 12 years since I built my mod0, but I do remember there being 2 collars. This is just a guess right now, but I think the long collar was for the mod1 with the smaller gas block.

Just make sure that your collar is hitting the step in the barrel before the gas block.
 
This is normal. Most of us don’t use the spacer, and use peal washers. This, as well as he original print, only get you 2-3 turns. I spoke to Ron about this years before 7 turns was common knowledge. We cut the barrel for the collar a bit deeper, but you could use the spacer (not crush washer).
 
Found this, seems like it doesn't matter which one you have and the clone correct looks like the long collar

 
This is normal. Most of us don’t use the spacer, and use peal washers. This, as well as he original print, only get you 2-3 turns. I spoke to Ron about this years before 7 turns was common knowledge. We cut the barrel for the collar a bit deeper, but you could use the spacer (not crush washer).
If you're cutting them deeper, will the long collar still work on mod0?

I get the 7 turns, I just used a crush washer. Are you saying not to use a crush washer? I get that for normal suppressor mounts, but since this one lines up on the collar I thought it was okie dokie.
 
@lonestar1845

If you use the crush washer or the spacer (looks like a black crush washer but is flat) you are likely to be fine with the standard cut barrel from the print.

If you use peel washers to keep the tension off the threads and help milk out the accuracy, you’re going to have to cut the shoulder for the collar back to get 7+ turns. How far, I’m not sure.

This Mod H has peal washers. Here is the distance from the end of the brake to the middle of the collar. 4.110” get me 7.5 turns on an old AEM5, pre-knurled.

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@lonestar1845

If you use the crush washer or the spacer (looks like a black crush washer but is flat, you are likely to be fine with the standard cut barrel from the print.

If you use peel washers to keep the tension off the threads and help milk out the accuracy, you’re going to have to cut the shoulder for the collar back to get 7+ turns. How far, I’m not sure.

This Mod H has peal washers. Here is the distance from the end of the brake to the middle of the collar. 4.110” get me 7.5 turns on an old AEM5, pre-knurled.

View attachment 8463792View attachment 8463793
Ok, I got ya. Thanks
 
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Something else this does is exposes the crown for cleaning and helps keep the caked on carbon from building up. Hard to see as it’s dirty, but the crown is exposed by 1 thread.

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Something else this does is exposes the crown for cleaning and helps keep the caked on carbon from building up. Hard to see as it’s dirty, but the crown is exposed by 1 thread.

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Like i said I'm making my own barrel and that's exactly how I threaded mine. In fact that's how I do all my brakes on all my rifles. It doesn't build up on the crown like it does then it's recessed also.
 
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My Mock 12 mod H is pretty much finished. I fitted the ACE Socom stock a few days ago. Had to make a 15 mm spacer for it to be long enough. Very happy with this rifle, even if it is not clone correkt. It is however almost as close as I can get it here in Sweden.
Did you import the upper with the full auto carrier? No problems? Currently having the same idea but it is almost impossible to accomplish an Import to Germany...
 
Seemed like they only offered the upper with the full auto carrier. I will have a look again👍🏻
Never seen it and I thought "Full auto" was a function of the lower not the upper?
But anyways, for us mortals "Full auto" is out of the question.

I started out with a regular AR15 and souped it up with the PRI parts.
I am wating for a White Oak Armory SPR barrel, and then its finished.

A guy I talk to online who lives in Germany did a Mark 12 mod 0 build using a Oberland AR as the base rifle.
So I am pretty sure you can make it happen too.
 
I will receive an oberland arms mk12 soon, however, i would like own one with an all original upper.

I think you missunderstood, the upper itself is semi auto, there is no full auto. However, they build it with a full auto carrier, as far as i understood they are more rigid even when used in semi auto rifles.

Thats the issue, will call them and see if they could bild me one with a semi auto bolt carrier. Will keep you updaten!

Cheers
 
I will receive an oberland arms mk12 soon, however, i would like own one with an all original upper.

I think you missunderstood, the upper itself is semi auto, there is no full auto. However, they build it with a full auto carrier, as far as i understood they are more rigid even when used in semi auto rifles.

Thats the issue, will call them and see if they could bild me one with a semi auto bolt carrier. Will keep you updaten!

Cheers
Allright! Nice.

If you are not set for a 100% clone build, I think that any regular style boltcarrier will be acceptable and I would guess that it would be hard to notice a difference. Mine has a regular mil-spec type.

Keep us posted on your build regardless. (y)
 
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The only difference is the size of the opening in the bottom of the bolt carrier to reset the trigger . The small opening is for full auto, the longer one is for semi auto only. The bolt carrier doesn’t do shit for full auto except reset the trigger. I wouldn’t even give it a second thought.
 
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