Suppressor mount stuck- good strap wrench suggestion ?

BuildingConceptsllc

BuildingConceptsllc

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    • Nov 13, 2020
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    #1
    Well, I have some Titanium brakes and Ti mounts on the way, so I go to remove one of my steel- YHM- phantom mounts from my Nomad Ti, and that thing will not budge. It has nothing accept possibly some copper antisieze on it (though given the situation that's doubtful).

    I tried heat, I tried putting it in the freezer. I don't want to mess my can up but I'd really like to get this thing off. Sending it back to Dead Air is a no go for obvious reasons.

    I guess I need to invest in a good strap wrench? My last one broke and I haven't replaced it so, if that's in your suggestion, what's a good one for this purpose?

    Any help would be much appreciated.
     
    Last edited:
    #6
    TheOE800 said:
    What you actually want is a thread matched bolt or thread insert and jam nut.
    Click to expand...
    So how would I use a thread matched bolt exactly? Thread it in the mount ? How does that help me? I can put vise grips on the mount and get a pretty good hold of it. I have a set that has a bend in it so I can get a good purchase on it. What I can't do it grab the suppressor well enough to be able to separate the two. I have a wrench for the can but it's thin metal and it's gonna bend before I put enough torque on it to separate the two.
     
    #8
    I’ve never had much success with strap wrenches. Maybe I’ve only tried crappy ones.

    I’d measure the suppressor with a calipers, and find the nearest next size up Forstner bit. Bore a hole through a block of scrap wood, preferably hardwood. Cut the block in half. Use leather or something to shim the hole to a very tight fit. Clamp the blocks around the suppressor in a vise. Should hold it pretty tight. Maybe use your wrench on the suppressor at the same time.
     
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    #9
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    So how would I use a thread matched bolt exactly? Thread it in the mount ? How does that help me? I can put vise grips on the mount and get a pretty good hold of it. I have a set that has a bend in it so I can get a good purchase on it. What I can't do it grab the suppressor well enough to be able to separate the two. I have a wrench for the can but it's thin metal and it's gonna bend before I put enough torque on it to separate the two.
    Click to expand...
    Thread the jam but on the bolt, thread bolt partially into mount and then engage jam nut against the back of the mount. Unscrew the bolt to remove it from the can. Chuck can into vise to prevent spinning, do you not have soft jaws?
     
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    #10
    I had an Area 419 hellfire adapter get stuck in my tabac like this. Put the bottom on the mount in my vise , then heated the hell out of if with a propane torch. Then with gloves on and some grunting was able to unscrew my can from it.
     
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    #12
    drglock said:
    I had an Area 419 hellfire adapter get stuck in my tabac like this. Put the bottom on the mount in my vise , then heated the hell out of if with a propane torch. Then with gloves on and some grunting was able to unscrew my can from it.
    Click to expand...
    Was it Ti? I was afraid to get the torch too close to it and just heated it through the steel mount.
     
    #13
    LR1845 said:
    Use nickel base anti seize when you get it off and redo every 2 or 3 times out and you’ll never have a stuck can again
    Click to expand...
    I rarely remove a qd mount as that's kind of the point of having a mount, so you can unscrew the suppressor from the barrel easily. I will be happy to take the advice of a Nickle base antiseize if that will work better? I can't remember if I put it on that one or not, it's been a while and that was one of my first cans to put a mount on so I may not have at all. The copper base stuff has worked well for keeping the brake from getting stuck on the mount but this is the first time I've I've ever tried to remove a mount from a Ti can at all so...
     
    #14
    TheOE800 said:
    Thread the jam but on the bolt, thread bolt partially into mount and then engage jam nut against the back of the mount. Unscrew the bolt to remove it from the can. Chuck can into vise to prevent spinning, do you not have soft jaws?
    Click to expand...
    It's a big spaced out thread that yhm uses on the brakes and mounts so to get a bolt into that part I don't knownif there's even enough thread to do that but I can grip the mount pretty well without it using vise grips since I'm not worried about marring it up. The can is a different story though.

    I have soft jaws but man I'd have to really crank down to get real purchase on that can and I'm worried I'm going to crack it if I do that.
     
    #16
    Norther said:
    I’ve never had much success with strap wrenches. Maybe I’ve only tried crappy ones.

    I’d measure the suppressor with a calipers, and find the nearest next size up Forstner bit. Bore a hole through a block of scrap wood, preferably hardwood. Cut the block in half. Use leather or something to shim the hole to a very tight fit. Clamp the blocks around the suppressor in a vise. Should hold it pretty tight. Maybe use your wrench on the suppressor at the same time.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah, I can make a "jaw" for it. I have a full wood shop in the back. I worry I'm going to crack the Titanium can or brake a weld doing it though????
     
    #17
    I had to send my 338 ultra back to TBAC because of this problem and they had to machine out the muzzle break and re-finish the can

    Somewhere on the Internet, there is a video of a guy using a jam nut kind of apparatus as described above

    For some of these things, a good little shockwave tends to break things free

    I would not be afraid of heating up the can at all to like 800° or even 1000

    I have a decent cobalt strap wrench that I got at Lowe’s

    You can also put some PB blaster or Ed’s red or acetone solvent in there to try to creep in and break up the carbon

    You basically just gotta keep trying shit until something works
     
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    #18
    Ape_Factory said:
    https://www.suppressortools.com/ has vice inserts specific to your suppressor so you're able to torque it down well enough to get the mount off. I have a few and they're not expensive. Very responsive customer service and shipping was very quick.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah, I have one of these that came with my Otter Creek polonium k can. This is great! I have 3 Nomad cans so this will be very good to have. I also sent them a message about a spanner wrench that's thicker that would fit the Nomad so maybe they have one. I looked but only saw one for other stuff but maybe they have more info they will answer back with Thanks
     
    Last edited:
    #19
    Make sure you heat the can and try not to heat the insert. The heat works by making the can threads expand away from the insert threads. If you heat the insert as you mentioned above, it will expand into the can threads and not come off without damage.
     
    #20
    Dragn’up said:
    Make sure you heat the can and try not to heat the insert. The heat works by making the can threads expand away from the insert threads. If you heat the insert as you mentioned above, it will expand into the can threads and not come off without damage.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah I thought the steel would likely expand into the can but I hoped the two being heated a lot would brake the bond so to speak. I know the cans get hot when we shoot but I just didn't have the nuts to throw a torch right on the Ti can.
     
    #21
    Ape_Factory said:
    https://www.suppressortools.com/ has vice inserts specific to your suppressor so you're able to torque it down well enough to get the mount off. I have a few and they're not expensive. Very responsive customer service and shipping was very quick.
    Click to expand...
    So like I said, I sent them a message. Right after dude texts me and says "yes we do make a spanner wrench that's thicker and can take a socket wrench or braking bar , use this code and it will remove shipping when you order it". Pretty awesome right there!
     
    #22
    TheOE800 said:
    Thread the jam but on the bolt, thread bolt partially into mount and then engage jam nut against the back of the mount. Unscrew the bolt to remove it from the can. Chuck can into vise to prevent spinning, do you not have soft jaws?
    Click to expand...
    Do this and if you have access to an impact wrench, it will do wonders on a low setting. Just like your mom's Mr. Jingles, the vibration seems to help get things moving without an trauma to the parts.
     
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    #23
    Terry Cross said:
    Do this and if you have access to an impact wrench, it will do wonders on a low setting. Just like your mom's Mr. Jingles, the vibration seems to help get things moving without an trauma to the parts.
    Click to expand...
    I don't know if that yhm thread will allow that but I'm hopeful this new vise block thing and better spanner wrench will do it. That yhm brake thread is what I'd have to screw into and I don't think it's fine enough to do that. This is a brake that shows that thread
     

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    #26
    I have a couple different sizes of the Lowe’s Kobalt strap wrenches with the rubber strap. They grip pretty well once snugged down. I’d put the mount in the vise and put the strap wrench on the can as close to the mount as possible and give it a shot. You’ll use the strap wrenches elsewhere even if this doesn’t work, and they are really inexpensive.
     
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    #33
    roostercogburn98 said:
    If I understand this correctly, you have the QD stuck inside the suppressor? You keep taking about the wide spacing of the YHM mount, but you need to focus on finding a jam nut setup in either 1/2-28 or 5/8-24, NOT the qd pitch.
    View attachment 8488707
    Click to expand...
    No. Thats where the brake goes onto the barrel. That isn't the issue that I have
     
    #36
    Wrap the suppressor in some heavy leather in a your vise, and use an ar15 armorers wrench to loosen the adapter, that outer edge is identical to a castle nut or the buffer tube retaining screw on an ar.
     
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    #37
    roostercogburn98 said:
    Wrap the suppressor in some heavy leather in a your vise, and use an ar15 armorers wrench to loosen the adapter, that outer edge is identical to a castle nut or the buffer tube retaining screw on an ar.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah I've got some old belt leather I could wrap it in that's 1.5" wide, I'm just scared I will crack it in a vise. It feels like it's pretty thin and I know if I do damage it, I'm going to wait a year for dead air to do anything about it given their issues right now. I'd probably send it to Ecco and have to get them to fix it. This is my favorite can so I'm just being a little girl about it and worried that enough to get the can not to move will be enough to also crack the can.
     
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    #39
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    I rarely remove a qd mount as that's kind of the point of having a mount, so you can unscrew the suppressor from the barrel easily. I will be happy to take the advice of a Nickle base antiseize if that will work better? I can't remember if I put it on that one or not, it's been a while and that was one of my first cans to put a mount on so I may not have at all. The copper base stuff has worked well for keeping the brake from getting stuck on the mount but this is the first time I've I've ever tried to remove a mount from a Ti can at all so...
    Click to expand...
    I get that and have QD mounts myself and the point is if you remove the mount from the suppressor every few outings, wipe the treads down and reapply the anti seize(to ALL the threads)you will never have this issue. As far as what anti seize you use I dont think it really matters as long as you use it...I prefer nickle base because thats whats most reccomended for TI materials and its rated to 2400deg.

    As a side note here I checked my OCL can last night because I have not followed my own advice in a few outings and its stuck...DAMIT!!
     
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    #40
    The purple permatex ceramic brake part lube is the best antiseize you can use for suppressor mounts. It works way better than the nickel or copper versions and wont cause issues with different metals like those can. You can basically weld threads together with them from chemical reaction if you use them in the wrong application. The ceramic also doesn’t react to solvents like the nickel and copper in case you get a lot of carbon build up and carbon lock it and have to soak it.
     
    #41
    redneckbmxer24 said:
    The purple permatex ceramic brake part lube is the best antiseize you can use for suppressor mounts. It works way better than the nickel or copper versions and wont cause issues with different metals like those can. You can basically weld threads together with them from chemical reaction if you use them in the wrong application. The ceramic also doesn’t react to solvents like the nickel and copper in case you get a lot of carbon build up and carbon lock it and have to soak it.
    Click to expand...
    Interesting I will have to look into this, Thanks.
     
    #42
    LR1845 said:
    I get that and have QD mounts myself and the point is if you remove the mount from the suppressor every few outings, wipe the treads down and reapply the anti seize(to ALL the threads)you will never have this issue. As far as what anti seize you use I dont think it really matters as long as you use it...I prefer nickle base because thats whats most reccomended for TI materials and its rated to 2400deg.

    As a side note here I checked my OCL can last night because I have not followed my own advice in a few outings and its stuck...DAMIT!!
    Click to expand...

    I know you say it does not matter, but would you mind sharing what specifically you actually have used?
     
    #44
    LR1845 said:
    I get that and have QD mounts myself and the point is if you remove the mount from the suppressor every few outings, wipe the treads down and reapply the anti seize(to ALL the threads)you will never have this issue. As far as what anti seize you use I dont think it really matters as long as you use it...I prefer nickle base because thats whats most reccomended for TI materials and its rated to 2400deg.

    As a side note here I checked my OCL can last night because I have not followed my own advice in a few outings and its stuck...DAMIT!!
    Click to expand...
    Ha ha. Yeah it's easy to just leave that alone. Yeah I'm sure if I took it off every now and then and cleaned it up that would help a lot. At some point though, it's kind if tough to clean rifles, remove cans, ect all the time. I'm hoping the new mounts won't require that and I will for sure put antisieze on em.
     
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    #45
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    Ha ha. Yeah it's easy to just leave that alone. Yeah I'm sure if I took it off every now and then and cleaned it up that would help a lot. At some point though, it's kind if tough to clean rifles, remove cans, ect all the time. I'm hoping the new mounts won't require that and I will for sure put antisieze on em.
    Click to expand...

    A different mount isn’t going to change anything if it’s still the threaded hub style. There’s still carbon and there’s still a shit ton of muzzle pressure forcing it back into the threads. The only way around that is a can with a proprietary mount system built into the can that uses mounts that have a taper in front of the threads. Basically any mount you put it than can is going to do the same damn thing with lack of maintenance.

    If you soak it in carbon remover and use the proper tools as I previously suggested you wouldn’t be having this problem. You’re given spanner wrench notches but you’re dicking around with trying to use strap wrench’s and by the looks of it pliers too. Just buy the right tools.
     
    #46
    secondofangle2 said:
    Get it in the Vice then apply the span wrench and then wrap it with a hammer creating a shockwave
    Click to expand...
    Since that custom block piece for nomads ans the new spanner wrench is already shipping out, I'm probably going to wait for it to get here and try that out to use in the vise and get that strap wrench they recommend to help counter the torque in the vise. Surely that will work
     
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    #47
    Malum Prohibitum said:
    I know you say it does not matter, but would you mind sharing what specifically you actually have used?
    Click to expand...
    As far as anti seize? I've used molly grease, starts to get runny when hot....Copper base anti seize and nickle base anti seize and as I said the nickle is recommended for TI parts.
     
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    #48
    BuildingConceptsllc said:
    It's a big spaced out thread that yhm uses on the brakes and mounts so to get a bolt into that part I don't knownif there's even enough thread to do that but I can grip the mount pretty well without it using vise grips since I'm not worried about marring it up. The can is a different story though.

    I have soft jaws but man I'd have to really crank down to get real purchase on that can and I'm worried I'm going to crack it if I do that.
    Click to expand...
    The YHM can should have come with a set of spanner wrenches, and both the can and the phantom mount have indexes for these wrenches. You can buy a steel spanner wrench from YHM. The brass/bronze wrenches they ship are soft and will eventually bend break (ask me how I know). I usually index the wrenches on the can/mount with everything lying on the floor, such that the floor is applying opening pressure to one wrench. Then I tap on the other wrench with a rubber mallet until it all pops free. Works every time.

    The nomad also uses a spanner wrench. Same trick… I’ll try to create an image if you’re not getting what I’m writing…

    IMG_6374.jpeg

    This is the wrong wrench for the mount (I sheared the lug on my other brass spanner), but taps/hits downward on the silver colored wrench will break the mount free…
     
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