Accuracy International Picture Thread

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Question for those of you who have chopped barrels…

I’m thinking of either hacking down my AXSR’s 24” 308 barrel down to 14.5 or 16 -OR- buying a proof SS prefit 308 and having it cut to either 14.5 or 16.

If I do 14.5, I’ll obviously have to do the pin/weld of the brake…which I would want timed. I don’t want to send off the rifle so do you think a black marker indicating the timing for the smith would suffice?

Or do ya think that 16 is just better for the lack of hassle and ease of cleaning the crown?

And I’ll obviously 5axis dremel my forend down to let it fit. 🥰

Coincidentally I have a 17.25" 6.5creedmoor barrel on order for my AXSR to run with a TBAC Ultra 9 which will then sit slightly recessed inside the handguard. That is the shortest that would fit without busting out the Dremel.

I do have a shorty 16" 308 bolt action and I don't I'd give up brake/can flexibility just to go as a short as possible with it.
 
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I recently bought a 2011 AW from a local guy getting out of the game.

Low mileage MSA 260 barrel, AI brake and Seekins rings.

Now to get rid of the terrible Viper skins and track down some original thumbhole skins. Right now it is looking like skins are going to be hard to find.

I am thinking this will end up being a short barrel 308 with a Covert Suppressor.

kCpOzNh.jpg
 
I recently bought a 2011 AW from a local guy getting out of the game.

Low mileage MSA 260 barrel, AI brake and Seekins rings.

Now to get rid of the terrible Viper skins and track down some original thumbhole skins. Right now it is looking like skins are going to be hard to find.

I am thinking this will end up being a short barrel 308 with a Covert Suppressor.

kCpOzNh.jpg

I would buy your current barrel and brake if you will sell it when you get the short barrel.
 
This is where I'm at. Can shoot tight all day long with FGMM 175gr, but then am all over the place with Hornady TAP ELD Precision 168gr.

But the tightest group I've shot to date was with the Hornady so, I've been immensely confused.

Hornady A-MAX (Black) I'd shoot if I needed something quick and cheap. Unfortunately it's not cheap and FGMM is cheaper.

I'm gonna try the TAP ELD Precision ammo out to further distance and see what I get, and post results. A different barrel would fix a lot of my problems ... 1:12 twist really is dated.

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I haven't been able to recreate this good shooting day with the Hornady TAP ELD since. Its important to note that this is with the 20" Lothar-Walther 1:12 4R barrel.

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Federal GMM 175gr has been much more consistent, but simply doesn't have the reach that the TAP ELD Precision (or any Hornady ELD ammo) has with its greater BC.

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Shot out to distance yesterday. 100 yards or 300 yards, it didn't matter: all the Hornady ammo shot like dogshit. 2-3 MOA level of bad. Federal GMM SMK 175gr it is for the Lothar-Walther 1:12 barrels. Hopefully Bartlein barrels show up in stock again in the near future... that said, I'm now wondering how this rifle shoots past 800 yards with FGMM, how it behaves when it hits transonic and subsonic.

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Shot out to distance yesterday. 100 yards or 300 yards, it didn't matter: all the Hornady ammo shot like dogshit. 2-3 MOA level of bad. Federal GMM SMK 175gr it is for the Lothar-Walther 1:12 barrels. Hopefully Bartlein barrels show up in stock again in the near future... that said, I'm now wondering how this rifle shoots past 800 yards with FGMM, how it behaves when it hits transonic and subsonic.
For what it's worth, I could never get my AI factory (wintac?) 20" 1:10 308 barrel to behave with 168gr bullets but it shoots lights out with 175SMK consistently.

Re: transsonic ... things definitely start getting iffy past 800 if you're pushing around 2525fps out of a 20" with 175SMK but I was able to connect out to a 1000 pretty consistently still.

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Shot out to distance yesterday. 100 yards or 300 yards, it didn't matter: all the Hornady ammo shot like dogshit. 2-3 MOA level of bad. Federal GMM SMK 175gr it is for the Lothar-Walther 1:12 barrels. Hopefully Bartlein barrels show up in stock again in the near future... that said, I'm now wondering how this rifle shoots past 800 yards with FGMM, how it behaves when it hits transonic and subsonic.

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Thoughts on selling axsa and buying a new rifle for prs?

 
Thoughts on selling axsa and buying a new rifle for prs?

I am never going to recommend you not be shooting an AI haha. But..... if you do sell it get an AT-XC for PRS or you could put the Vision/AO forend on your AX and make the rifle that bit better for your intended purpose.

I personally sold my AX for an AT-X as it was my PRS rifle. I haven't looked back.

I have an AXSR for everything else though.
 
I am never going to recommend you not be shooting an AI haha. But..... if you do sell it get an AT-XC for PRS or you could put the Vision/AO forend on your AX and make the rifle that bit better for your intended purpose.

I personally sold my AX for an AT-X as it was my PRS rifle. I haven't looked back.

I have an AXSR for everything else though.
If I had the money I’d do both an AXSR and a custom PRS rifle.

I mean I have the money but I really shouldn’t lol
 
If I had the money I’d do both an AXSR and a custom PRS rifle.

I mean I have the money so why not
I fixed it for you

You can pick up parts for a prs rig at very discounted prices in the px. I say if you want a prs rig build it from the px. You won’t loose anything if you sell it later. You say you have the money so I say conservatively spend it on the prs rig and make the decision later to keep or sell the AX

It’s not hard to get parts to build a prs rig. Biggest reason is you can roll a $350 krg until you can get that $1500 matrix. Its just a mix of parts

Where the AI is a system. To get another AX will cost you $5500 ish on the used market. That’s a harder pill to swallow vs $500-$1500 pieces along the way

The only way to save money on an AI realistically is to move down models. So make sure you want to sell it because it’s much harder to get back. Unless your rolling in $$
 
It’s not hard to get parts to build a prs rig. Biggest reason is you can roll a $350 krg until you can get that $1500 matrix. Its just a mix of parts

Where the AI is a system.
Thinking about your rifle as a system is the key. You can buy the parts and throw them together but that isn't a custom rifle built by a gunsmith who knows how to get the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts.

AIs are a system. The TacOps I just bought is a great example of a system that performs at a level that is greater than the sum of the parts.

I know a few who learned this the hard way.
 
What about the vision AO chassis. That might be a sweet spot? I just don’t like the idea of debonding the chassis and or if it will affect resale.
There was one for sale recently with the AO. The only downside to adding the AO as far as resale goes is you’ll have the cost of the AO chassis which can be bonded. But then a AX chassis which won’t sell for much as you can’t find AI actions only.

Another option is buy a ATX for $3000-$3500 used. Run the same barrels/bolts as your AX. Then sell whatever you don’t use. Or keep both.
 
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If I had the money I’d do both an AXSR and a custom PRS rifle.

I mean I have the money but I really shouldn’t lol
Do both. Don’t sell the AI. I mentioned that in the other thread and will echo it here. I should’ve kept the ELITE sand AXSA I had and just built the comp gun separate instead of fucking around and changing and selling my AX. Trust me, in the long run, you’ll be happier.
 
Do both. Don’t sell the AI. I mentioned that in the other thread and will echo it here. I should’ve kept the ELITE sand AXSA I had and just built the comp gun separate instead of fucking around and changing and selling my AX. Trust me, in the long run, you’ll be happier.

We tried to tell ya ....