rimfire suppressor for precision rifle

jbell

jbell

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    • Jan 16, 2010
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    Jasper Arkansas
    #1
    I am fully aware and have been preaching for years that suppressors do not belong on a precision rimfire if your chasing the razors edge of accuracy. I know that adding weight to a rimfire barrel is a big roll of the dice as far as accuracy, especially an ever changing weight. However with that said I am considering buying another rimfire suppressor for shooting out of my garage so I don’t have to wear ear pro & have it pull double duty on a small game rifle.

    I have not been paying attention to the precision rimfire world the last few years and am curious if there has been any new rimfire specific suppressors released that are known for maintaining a high level of accuracy. I think the go to was the Mask and TB takedown, I have also seen good results from the old tried and true sparrow. What should I be looking at these days?

    Thank you - Jesse
     
    #5
    I know it highly frowned upon by many but I have an Ultra 7 223 suppressor on my B14R that makes it Hollywood quiet and has not had any impact on tiny little groups. I can shoot grasshoppers in the head at 40 yards. I clean it myself and I do send it in once a year. TBAC has it a couple of weeks and I get it back, all shiny and new looking. They will change the color for you, too and I don't think it costs much but I haven't done that.
     
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    #6
    My issue with my .22 (TB) suppressor is I always forget to carry muzzle down. One muzzle up and so much crap falls done the barrel and into the action my Vudoo won’t cycle correctly. If you force the bolt closed it mucks it up.

    So now the .22 can just stays in the safe.
     
    #7
    I have a couple TB Takedowns and love them. They get a lot of use.

    On my Vudoo single shot I use an old TBAC Ultra 223 centerfire can. The barrel was threaded 3/4-24 and I added an ATS tuner and CB brake. Looks perfectly normal and is plenty quiet.

    PIGQjDg.jpg
     
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    #8
    Hoser said:
    I have a couple TB Takedowns and love them. They get a lot of use.

    On my Vudoo single shot I use an old TBAC Ultra 223 centerfire can. The barrel was threaded 3/4-24 and I added an ATS tuner and CB brake. Looks perfectly normal and is plenty quiet.

    PIGQjDg.jpg
    Click to expand...
    Personally I prefer either 3/4 or M18 threaded muzzles. I think that's optimal to minimize the bore expanding at the threads. I wish this was standard.


    Thank you all for the info
     
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    #10
    jbell said:
    I am fully aware and have been preaching for years that suppressors do not belong on a precision rimfire if your chasing the razors edge of accuracy. I know that adding weight to a rimfire barrel is a big roll of the dice as far as accuracy, especially an ever changing weight. However with that said I am considering buying another rimfire suppressor for shooting out of my garage so I don’t have to wear ear pro & have it pull double duty on a small game rifle.

    I have not been paying attention to the precision rimfire world the last few years and am curious if there has been any new rimfire specific suppressors released that are known for maintaining a high level of accuracy. I think the go to was the Mask and TB takedown, I have also seen good results from the old tried and true sparrow. What should I be looking at these days?

    Thank you - Jesse
    Click to expand...
    I've been using a Mask and Oculus with excellent accuracy. It's a coin toss on which one I like better. The Oculus is a bit easier to clean...
    Kadams1563 said:
    My issue with my .22 (TB) suppressor is I always forget to carry muzzle down. One muzzle up and so much crap falls done the barrel and into the action my Vudoo won’t cycle correctly. If you force the bolt closed it mucks it up.

    So now the .22 can just stays in the safe.
    Click to expand...
     
    #11
    That is a great point Kadams. .22s are very dirty and spit a ton of gritty stuff, both into the suppressor and into the action if you are shooting an auto like the 10/22. I usually screw the suppressor on after the rifle is on the bench or at least horizontal. I take it off if carrying muzzle down isn't practical or convenient. That's one downside of the .22lr cartridge.
     
    #12
    I always run my sparrow on my rifles. Between the RimX, the Sako Quad Range, and the CZ I haven't seen accuracy fall off on any of them. Now if out shooting with a large group of people and you are the only one suppressed.....doesn't make sense.
     
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    #13
    Jbell,
    I have thought about the rimfire suppressor /accuracy thing for awhile and have even discussed it with suppressor manufactures , I even read ( on the hide )where a guy made his own and had better results going slightly bigger ( 1 1/4 ) than the standard over the counter cans , with a .250 bore , don’t know about longer , my idea was to go slightly bigger around and longer with a bigger bore or a taper bore , all of this to cut down on turbulence so as to not effect accuracy , but I think there are to many variables with a 22 , turbulence , harmonics , harmonics changes with suppressor weight changing , differences in barrel stiffness from rifle to rifle yada yada etc etc
    I have thought about the silencer central 223 banish ? Take down , 1 1/2 , 7”
    Or the 30 banish , take down , 1 1/2 , 7”

    The 22 is already going to be quiet on a long barrel precision rifle so the best suppressor isn’t required , correct ?

    I did a test one day , 22 suppressor , 223 suppressors , 9mm suppressor , on a 22 ,,,,,,, it was cold and the ammo went super sonic , lol , I never went back and redid the test , no conclusive

    Anyway , y’all let me know your thoughts on the above
     
    #14
    I shot some Wolf Match Extra in my CZ 457 with a 24" barrel yesterday. Performance was excellent but with the long barrel it was supersonic, so there was that "crack" making it quite a bit louder than say the SK Rifle Match. I tested with the Mask, Oculus .22 and Obsidion 9 in full length configuration and to be honest, they all sounded pretty much the same. I don't have a dedicated 5.56 suppressor, so I can't speak to that, but my guess is it won't make much difference?
     
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    #15
    So while most rimfire is subsonic there is definitely some noise. When you suppress it, you don’t hear much more then the trigger break. Very big difference but you have to deal with the crud and crap falling innthe action.

    If I’m shooting stuff out side that have legs or swim then I shoot supressed with a 18” lightweight barrel Vudoo. If I’m doing any PRS style shooting or bench accuracy testing then the other Vudoo with a 25” straight.

    Save yourself headache and put that .22 suppressor on a. .22 pistol and have a blast.
     
    #18
    68hoyt said:
    Jbell,
    I have thought about the rimfire suppressor /accuracy thing for awhile and have even discussed it with suppressor manufactures , I even read ( on the hide )where a guy made his own and had better results going slightly bigger ( 1 1/4 ) than the standard over the counter cans , with a .250 bore , don’t know about longer , my idea was to go slightly bigger around and longer with a bigger bore or a taper bore , all of this to cut down on turbulence so as to not effect accuracy , but I think there are to many variables with a 22 , turbulence , harmonics , harmonics changes with suppressor weight changing , differences in barrel stiffness from rifle to rifle yada yada etc etc
    I have thought about the silencer central 223 banish ? Take down , 1 1/2 , 7”
    Or the 30 banish , take down , 1 1/2 , 7”

    The 22 is already going to be quiet on a long barrel precision rifle so the best suppressor isn’t required , correct ?

    I did a test one day , 22 suppressor , 223 suppressors , 9mm suppressor , on a 22 ,,,,,,, it was cold and the ammo went super sonic , lol , I never went back and redid the test , no conclusive

    Anyway , y’all let me know your thoughts on the above
    Click to expand...
    I am right there with you on the turbulence thing. I have seen it (or better said what I assume is turbulence) with back bored barrels. As we know a 22lr is very sensitive both to wind (both atmospheric wind & turbulence), harmonics, and bore consistency. I believe and have proven to myself that 1/2” diameter threads are too small (too much material is removed) which allows the ID of the bore to open a very small but measurable amount. This can and more times than not degrade accuracy, or better said potential accuracy of a particular barrel. So some people (myself included) have tried to bypass this by back boring to just before the threads. I have a feeling that the ID of the back bore for our normal barrel diameters is a bit too tight and creates a turbulent airspace for the bullet to start its path to target in. A much larger diameter (like a bloop tube) doesn’t seem to have as much or any effect on accuracy once tuned for fore aft position on the barrel (eliminating the harmonic effects). So to your point the ID of a suppressor could possibly create the same condition. The only thing is the suppressor volume & baffle design allows the precursor gasses to move away and be trapped from the bullet path creating a neutral or calm airspace. So if this is true in theory a suppressor would help. But that is all a bit of speculation. However what we do know is rimfire barrels are very much effected by harmonics, as seen by the addition of a tuner. A suppressor gains weight as rounds are shot. So also in theory at some point it will / may come out of tune.

    These are things I have attempted to test but it is difficult to be scientific about any of it with all the variables in play (especially ammo!!).
     
    #19
    I'm always amazed how we can have such different experiences. My Tikka has in excess of 10,000 rounds. Can and barrel cleaned every 1000 rounds. Rifle stored muzzle up can attached. I've never had any instance of can crud causing an issue.
     
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    #20
    Nor have I. All of the fouling in the can is pretty encrusted, and requires a solvent soak (Boretech C4) and a wiped down to remove. The really stubborn parts require a pick to remove. I’ve never had any noticeable fouling fall out of a suppressor.
     
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    #21
    Hi hlee.
    Question on the Boretech C4. I've been using Hoppes #9 in a glass mason jar for soaking my suppressor baffles. I usually soak for a day or two and then wipe down and use a little BLUE, non abrasive scotch Brite as needed. I've had great results with this method and was wondering how the C4 works? Do you soak overnight?
    Thanks,
    D4T
     
    #22
    Die4toys said:
    Hi hlee.
    Question on the Boretech C4. I've been using Hoppes #9 in a glass mason jar for soaking my suppressor baffles. I usually soak for a day or two and then wipe down and use a little BLUE, non abrasive scotch Brite as needed. I've had great results with this method and was wondering how the C4 works? Do you soak overnight?
    Thanks,
    D4T
    Click to expand...
    I plug the end with an ear plug and fill the suppressor. Overnight is usually sufficient if it isn’t totally crudded up. Most of the fouling wipes out with a paper towel, but some needs a wooden pick to be removed.

    I once forgot about setting up the suppressor to soak and left it for a week. No harm done to the can, but no real advantage to the long soak, at least that I could tell.

    That said, it is a can that can be disassembled, as all rimfire cans should be, so soaking/cleaning is pretty easy.

    I may try the Hoppes, as C4 is kinda spendy…
     
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    #23
    Hey JB. I hope you all are doing well at the new digs. I have been using a Dead Air Mask HD on some of my rimfires for a few years now. It is not the lightest since it uses the stainless internals with the Titanium can. But that makes it pretty forgiving at cleaning time. Being an avid precision rimfire geek, I was most interested in the affects (if any) of screwing the can onto the muzzle of some of my rifles. One of my most accurate 22's is a little Sako Quad custom. What I found was that when zeroed at 50y without the can, the rifle's POI shifted 0.4 mil down and 0.2 mil left when I added the can. Once re-zeroed, the groups did open up enough that I never use the can when shooting in matches that involve paper targets and high levels of precision or on steel at longer ranges since the slight affect might be enough to cause a miss. But for a PRS type match where the targets are relatively large it might not be enough difference to matter (when does a loss of accuracy not matter??).

    The other rifle that wears the can the most is a little Bergara BMR carbon. I had bought it to use as an ARA factory rifle a few years ago but it was never quite accurate enough to win in that game, so it got re-purposed to be a light weight squirrel rifle. In that role it excelled and the affects of the can on accuracy was not enough to matter. Hanging a weight on the end of a rimfire rifle is a crap shoot. As you know the Harrells type tuner is nothing but a big weight screwed onto the muzzle with the ability to be adjusted fore and aft with the threaded portion. Knowing this, I acquired some threaded locknuts to fit my rifle and added one before the can was threaded onto the bbl. This provided a means to adjust in small increments the position of the suppressor fore and aft on the bbl. Then lock it in place with the treaded nut. With some trial and error, I found a sweet spot that makes the little BMR shoot pretty well when using Eley LV HP ammo. It is still not a factory class winner but it made it a deadly plinker/squirrel rifle. And the quiet signature with the can is less likely to spook the game.

    While preparing for an African Safari this year, I made it part of my training regimen to shoot 5 dum dum suckers off of sticks at 25-35y every day with a 22lr. This aided me greatly in getting proficient with the sticks. To accomplish this, I set up the sticks in my garage and placed the tgts on a large dirt pile in my yard. This gave me a perfect, safe backstop and with the can on the 22lr, it did not disturb my neighbors. I got to where I could break 5 suckers with about 7 shots every day with the goal being use 10sh or less to break all 5. Some days I shot better than others and would break all 5 with 5 shots but usually I would miss once or twice. This is good training for Africa. I took 5 critters with my little 308 and none of them required a 2nd shot at ranges from 20y to 200y. I took one with the big magnum 375HH. It was a world record Wildebeest at 160y. The 1st shot killed him but it did take a couple more to convince him of his change of life status. They are tough beasties. Longest shot was a Gemsbok at 202y. One shot one KIA, but that shot was not from the sticks. The longest shot from the sticks was on an Impala at 180y but the result was the same. It is just another example of using the rimfires to improve our marksmanship in the field.

    Gemsbok2.JPG
     
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    #24
    I have the Surefire Ryder 22 and the TBAC Take Down 22 and both work well but the TBAC can go quite a bit longer before having to tear down and clean that nasty carbon. I use 2 cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner then toss the baffles in my wet tumbler and they come out like brand new!
     
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    #25
    hlee said:
    I plug the end with an ear plug and fill the suppressor. Overnight is usually sufficient if it isn’t totally crudded up. Most of the fouling wipes out with a paper towel, but some needs a wooden pick to be removed.

    I once forgot about setting up the suppressor to soak and left it for a week. No harm done to the can, but no real advantage to the long soak, at least that I could tell.

    That said, it is a can that can be disassembled, as all rimfire cans should be, so soaking/cleaning is pretty easy.

    I may try the Hoppes, as C4 is kinda spendy…
    Click to expand...
    Oh, one last thing. Most of the deposits that come off the baffles settle to the bottom, so I have a second jar that I use to pour off the hoppes, leaving the gunk in the first jar. I've reused the hoppes to clean the baffles for the Mask and oculus 5 or 6 times so far and it's still working fine.... pretty cost effective compared to other soaks..... I buy this:
    Hoppe's No. 9 Gun Bore Cleaner https://a.co/d/ceJ6u6N
     
    #26
    hlee said:
    I plug the end with an ear plug and fill the suppressor. Overnight is usually sufficient if it isn’t totally crudded up. Most of the fouling wipes out with a paper towel, but some needs a wooden pick to be removed.

    I once forgot about setting up the suppressor to soak and left it for a week. No harm done to the can, but no real advantage to the long soak, at least that I could tell.

    That said, it is a can that can be disassembled, as all rimfire cans should be, so soaking/cleaning is pretty easy.

    I may try the Hoppes, as C4 is kinda spendy…
    Click to expand...
    Might try a 50/50 mix of CLR and water for soaking. Seems to work well, and very inexpensive. The 50/50 mix keeps it from etching anything...
     
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    #28
    JG26_Irish said:
    Hey JB. I hope you all are doing well at the new digs. I have been using a Dead Air Mask HD on some of my rimfires for a few years now. It is not the lightest since it uses the stainless internals with the Titanium can. But that makes it pretty forgiving at cleaning time. Being an avid precision rimfire geek, I was most interested in the affects (if any) of screwing the can onto the muzzle of some of my rifles. One of my most accurate 22's is a little Sako Quad custom. What I found was that when zeroed at 50y without the can, the rifle's POI shifted 0.4 mil down and 0.2 mil left when I added the can. Once re-zeroed, the groups did open up enough that I never use the can when shooting in matches that involve paper targets and high levels of precision or on steel at longer ranges since the slight affect might be enough to cause a miss. But for a PRS type match where the targets are relatively large it might not be enough difference to matter (when does a loss of accuracy not matter??).

    The other rifle that wears the can the most is a little Bergara BMR carbon. I had bought it to use as an ARA factory rifle a few years ago but it was never quite accurate enough to win in that game, so it got re-purposed to be a light weight squirrel rifle. In that role it excelled and the affects of the can on accuracy was not enough to matter. Hanging a weight on the end of a rimfire rifle is a crap shoot. As you know the Harrells type tuner is nothing but a big weight screwed onto the muzzle with the ability to be adjusted fore and aft with the threaded portion. Knowing this, I acquired some threaded locknuts to fit my rifle and added one before the can was threaded onto the bbl. This provided a means to adjust in small increments the position of the suppressor fore and aft on the bbl. Then lock it in place with the treaded nut. With some trial and error, I found a sweet spot that makes the little BMR shoot pretty well when using Eley LV HP ammo. It is still not a factory class winner but it made it a deadly plinker/squirrel rifle. And the quiet signature with the can is less likely to spook the game.

    While preparing for an African Safari this year, I made it part of my training regimen to shoot 5 dum dum suckers off of sticks at 25-35y every day with a 22lr. This aided me greatly in getting proficient with the sticks. To accomplish this, I set up the sticks in my garage and placed the tgts on a large dirt pile in my yard. This gave me a perfect, safe backstop and with the can on the 22lr, it did not disturb my neighbors. I got to where I could break 5 suckers with about 7 shots every day with the goal being use 10sh or less to break all 5. Some days I shot better than others and would break all 5 with 5 shots but usually I would miss once or twice. This is good training for Africa. I took 5 critters with my little 308 and none of them required a 2nd shot at ranges from 20y to 200y. I took one with the big magnum 375HH. It was a world record Wildebeest at 160y. The 1st shot killed him but it did take a couple more to convince him of his change of life status. They are tough beasties. Longest shot was a Gemsbok at 202y. One shot one KIA, but that shot was not from the sticks. The longest shot from the sticks was on an Impala at 180y but the result was the same. It is just another example of using the rimfires to improve our marksmanship in the field.

    View attachment 8499348
    Click to expand...
    Awesome!
     
    #30
    MarinePMI said:
    Sure thing, but just soak the baffles. With the tube, if it's cerokoted, it may fade the color slightly if left to soak.
    Click to expand...
    Good advice, I don't soak the tubes but they are indeed Cerakoted, which I've found isn't as durable as I first assumed! My Alaskan 360 is gonna go back to Rugged so they can refinish it after I messed it up. I used a regular rubber band around the tube in my ultrasonic cleaner with the recommended purple power. But using the rubber band instead of the recommended "rubber mat", caused the Cerakote to dissolve where the rubber band was... I was like WHAT? After that, I'm very careful with Cerakote.... go figure.
     
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    #31
    This is 10 minutes soak in CLR then rinsed under warm water. I clean the tube while it soaks. Takes about 20 minutes to clean the can

    I also have noticed chunks of carbon come out. I’m sure a lot depends on type of ammo used. Some has lube some doesn’t etc if I remove the can and tap against my hand I can get a little pile of carbon bits out of it. Not as bad as my centerfire but still there

    10 minutes in CLR
    IMG_5526.jpeg

    IMG_5528.jpeg
    IMG_5529.jpeg
     
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    #34
    JG26_Irish said:
    Hey JB. I hope you all are doing well at the new digs. I have been using a Dead Air Mask HD on some of my rimfires for a few years now. It is not the lightest since it uses the stainless internals with the Titanium can. But that makes it pretty forgiving at cleaning time. Being an avid precision rimfire geek, I was most interested in the affects (if any) of screwing the can onto the muzzle of some of my rifles. One of my most accurate 22's is a little Sako Quad custom. What I found was that when zeroed at 50y without the can, the rifle's POI shifted 0.4 mil down and 0.2 mil left when I added the can. Once re-zeroed, the groups did open up enough that I never use the can when shooting in matches that involve paper targets and high levels of precision or on steel at longer ranges since the slight affect might be enough to cause a miss. But for a PRS type match where the targets are relatively large it might not be enough difference to matter (when does a loss of accuracy not matter??).

    The other rifle that wears the can the most is a little Bergara BMR carbon. I had bought it to use as an ARA factory rifle a few years ago but it was never quite accurate enough to win in that game, so it got re-purposed to be a light weight squirrel rifle. In that role it excelled and the affects of the can on accuracy was not enough to matter. Hanging a weight on the end of a rimfire rifle is a crap shoot. As you know the Harrells type tuner is nothing but a big weight screwed onto the muzzle with the ability to be adjusted fore and aft with the threaded portion. Knowing this, I acquired some threaded locknuts to fit my rifle and added one before the can was threaded onto the bbl. This provided a means to adjust in small increments the position of the suppressor fore and aft on the bbl. Then lock it in place with the treaded nut. With some trial and error, I found a sweet spot that makes the little BMR shoot pretty well when using Eley LV HP ammo. It is still not a factory class winner but it made it a deadly plinker/squirrel rifle. And the quiet signature with the can is less likely to spook the game.

    While preparing for an African Safari this year, I made it part of my training regimen to shoot 5 dum dum suckers off of sticks at 25-35y every day with a 22lr. This aided me greatly in getting proficient with the sticks. To accomplish this, I set up the sticks in my garage and placed the tgts on a large dirt pile in my yard. This gave me a perfect, safe backstop and with the can on the 22lr, it did not disturb my neighbors. I got to where I could break 5 suckers with about 7 shots every day with the goal being use 10sh or less to break all 5. Some days I shot better than others and would break all 5 with 5 shots but usually I would miss once or twice. This is good training for Africa. I took 5 critters with my little 308 and none of them required a 2nd shot at ranges from 20y to 200y. I took one with the big magnum 375HH. It was a world record Wildebeest at 160y. The 1st shot killed him but it did take a couple more to convince him of his change of life status. They are tough beasties. Longest shot was a Gemsbok at 202y. One shot one KIA, but that shot was not from the sticks. The longest shot from the sticks was on an Impala at 180y but the result was the same. It is just another example of using the rimfires to improve our marksmanship in the field.

    View attachment 8499348
    Click to expand...
    Hey man, that is a beautiful Gemsbok! Congrats on the Wildebeest and going to Africa in general. Must be some awesome memories for sure!

    I appreciate the info on tuning the suppressor, I am planning on doing just that with some sort of precision spacers. Probably peel washers used to time muzzle devices. We will see how it turns out. I’ll probably experiment with some of the super cheap suppressors I currently have.

    I hope you and yours are well - Jesse
     
    #35
    I had pondered the tuner like a bloop tube on the outside of a suppressor but did not know how fast the crud would build up and change the tune
     
    #36
    I added a 22 can to the end of my Anschutz 2018/Bee Sting bloop tube 10-15 years ago when I was still shooting at the Olympic Training Center.

    Worked awesome. Not ISSF legal at all, but fun.

    pfgfNMy.jpg
     
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    #39
    hafejd30 said:
    This is 10 minutes soak in CLR then rinsed under warm water. I clean the tube while it soaks. Takes about 20 minutes to clean the can

    I also have noticed chunks of carbon come out. I’m sure a lot depends on type of ammo used. Some has lube some doesn’t etc if I remove the can and tap against my hand I can get a little pile of carbon bits out of it. Not as bad as my centerfire but still there

    10 minutes in CLR
    View attachment 8499483
    View attachment 8499484View attachment 8499485
    Click to expand...
    Hold the phone!!! I thought I had the perfect solution using Hoppes. I wish I had taken before pictures, but since my back was tweaking today, I decided it was "clean the can" day. I have to thank MarinePMI and then hafejd30 for the suggestions. These baffles are from my Rugged Oculus .22 can. It had around 400-600 rounds through it since it was last cleaned, so it wasn't a disaster, but it was dirty. I wiped most of the gunk out of the inside of the baffles and put them in a Mason jar and covered with full strength CLR. So.... I was cleaning my CZ and forgot about the baffles so they soaked for about 40 minutes. I poured off the CLR, squirted some Dawn dish soap in the jar and rinsed in hot water till the soap was gone. Then wiped the baffles dry with paper towels. WOW!!! No scrubbing at all. So easy. This can has about 10,000 rounds through it, albeit I keep it fairly clean, but this was ridiculously easy! Sorry for writing a book, but I'm really jazzed right now.
     

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    #40
    Die4toys said:
    Hold the phone!!! I thought I had the perfect solution using Hoppes. I wish I had taken before pictures, but since my back was tweaking today, I decided it was "clean the can" day. I have to thank MarinePMI and then hafejd30 for the suggestions. These baffles are from my Rugged Oculus .22 can. It had around 400-600 rounds through it since it was last cleaned, so it wasn't a disaster, but it was dirty. I wiped most of the gunk out of the inside of the baffles and put them in a Mason jar and covered with full strength CLR. So.... I was cleaning my CZ and forgot about the baffles so they soaked for about 40 minutes. I poured off the CLR, squirted some Dawn dish soap in the jar and rinsed in hot water till the soap was gone. Then wiped the baffles dry with paper towels. WOW!!! No scrubbing at all. So easy. This can has about 10,000 rounds through it, albeit I keep it fairly clean, but this was ridiculously easy! Sorry for writing a book, but I'm really jazzed right now.
    Click to expand...
    Looks good

    I will add a disclaimer for guys using clr. It doesn’t get along with every suppressor. Aluminum vs stainless etc. I keep my soak time to 10 minutes to prevent any damage and I only soak the baffles. I do the same on my griffin Optimus micro.
     
    #41
    hafejd30 said:
    Looks good

    I will add a disclaimer for guys using clr. It doesn’t get along with every suppressor. Aluminum vs stainless etc. I keep my soak time to 10 minutes to prevent any damage and I only soak the baffles. I do the same on my griffin Optimus micro.
    Click to expand...
    Good point hefehd30, this will only work with stainless or titanium baffles. If you put an aluminum baffle or tube in CLR, it will be a disaster.
     
    Last edited:
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    #42
    Anybody had issues with aligning the baffles in the Rugged Oculus? Here is what I do. 5/32" Allen wrench to align the baffles and then a 3/16" Allen wrench to keep the smaller one from jumping out when you tighten the end cap. I thought I was a genius when I figured this out, but just for fun.... throw some darts at me! I've got thick skin, lol.
    Happy Friday!
    1000005987.jpg
    1000005988.jpg
     
    #43
    FYI - I use CLR to soak my baffles only which are stainless. The design of the DA Mask is such that the inside of the tube does not really get dirty. I just swab it out with a big shotgun swab while the baffles are in the CLR. I used a 50:50 blend with water but soaked them for a couple hours. CLR is pretty benign on stainless but I am told it does not play well with Aluminum and will stain the Titanium cans.

    JB - Africa was magnificent. The most memorable experience ever. Half the fun is the detail prep for the trip but once over there... It is simply a slice of paradise. And the hidden thing is that it is addictive. I call it African Safarittis. It is an incurable ailment. I am already planning the next trip in 2025 to hunt dangerous game. My little 308 performed great using 180g Federal Fusion ammo. That was impressive.

    I am prepping a pair of new rifles for next year. A custom ER Shaw P14 Enfield in 375HH for DG and a vintage Husqvarna Swedish Mauser Imperial in 30-06 to use on the smaller plains critters. Just mounted the scopes and bore sighted them. Next step is zero and test ammo in them. For the 375 it will be Barnes 300g TSX, Swift A-Frame 300g, Woodleigh Hydro or North Fork CPS, for the 30-06 it will be Swift Scirrocco 180g, Federal Fusion 180g or Barnes TTSX 180g. Why am I not returning with the little 308 since it did so well? That is easy to answer. It is a vintage classic rifle with a old clunky BALVar scope on it that works great within the limit of its point blank range. But is very hard to adjust for longer distance or to even do a decent hold over with. I do not want to remove that scope so I was looking to install a FFP optic with a good MIL reticle and good turrets on another rifle so I can have a shot a long range game in the Free State province. My PH told me to expect shots from 200-400y more or less and the 308 as is was good for only about 300y with confidence. I have two candidates for the plains game gun. One is the Husky and the other is my old Mauser 98 in 270 that has been my go to deer rifle for decades. Whichever one shoots best at 200-400y will be the go-to. Sorry for high jacking your thread. I attached a shot of the Blue Wildebeest and the little FN Browning 308 just for fun.

    World Record Blue Wildebeest.jpg


    FN Browning 308.jpg
     
    Last edited:
    • Like
    Reactions: Die4toys
    #44
    Hey @jbell I've been so tempted to try one of these cans alongside my old Tac Sol Axiom just to see how it would affect accuracy due to weight difference since the Pluto only weighs in right at 2 ounces. Only qualm I have is being that it's 3D printed titanium & doesn't disassemble for cleaning... The site says to just use an ultrasonic with Simple Green Extreme & water but I guess you'll never really know how clean it is afterwards? Maybe weigh it when it's new & hopefully it gets back close to that initial weight after cleaning 🤷🏻‍♂️

    Here's the link & I have no affiliation with the company, just really peaked my interest since it's so damn light maybe it wouldn't have a huge effect on accuracy lol


    Curious to hear your thoughts on it as well.
     
    Last edited:
    #45
    Overwatch260 said:
    Hey @jbell I've been so tempted to try one of these cans alongside my old Tac Sol Axiom just to see how it would affect accuracy due to weight difference since the Pluto only weighs in right at 2 ounces. Only qualm I have is being that it's 3D printed titanium & doesn't disassemble for cleaning... The site says to just use an ultrasonic with Simple Green Extreme & water but I guess you'll never really know how clean it is afterwards? Maybe weigh it when it's new & hopefully it gets back close to that initial weight after cleaning 🤷🏻‍♂️

    Here's the link & I have no affiliation with the company, just really peaked my interest since it's so damn light maybe it wouldn't have a huge effect on accuracy lol


    Curious to hear your thoughts on it as well.
    Click to expand...
    Honestly it looks like an excellent option. My only hesitation would be the cleaning aspect, but I bet if you use BoreTech C4 in the place of simple green it would clean up well. Thank you for the heads up! I will keep it on my radar.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Overwatch260
    #46
    JG26_Irish said:
    FYI - I use CLR to soak my baffles only which are stainless. The design of the DA Mask is such that the inside of the tube does not really get dirty. I just swab it out with a big shotgun swab while the baffles are in the CLR. I used a 50:50 blend with water but soaked them for a couple hours. CLR is pretty benign on stainless but I am told it does not play well with Aluminum and will stain the Titanium cans.

    JB - Africa was magnificent. The most memorable experience ever. Half the fun is the detail prep for the trip but once over there... It is simply a slice of paradise. And the hidden thing is that it is addictive. I call it African Safarittis. It is an incurable ailment. I am already planning the next trip in 2025 to hunt dangerous game. My little 308 performed great using 180g Federal Fusion ammo. That was impressive.

    I am prepping a pair of new rifles for next year. A custom ER Shaw P14 Enfield in 375HH for DG and a vintage Husqvarna Swedish Mauser Imperial in 30-06 to use on the smaller plains critters. Just mounted the scopes and bore sighted them. Next step is zero and test ammo in them. For the 375 it will be Barnes 300g TSX, Swift A-Frame 300g, Woodleigh Hydro or North Fork CPS, for the 30-06 it will be Swift Scirrocco 180g, Federal Fusion 180g or Barnes TTSX 180g. Why am I not returning with the little 308 since it did so well? That is easy to answer. It is a vintage classic rifle with a old clunky BALVar scope on it that works great within the limit of its point blank range. But is very hard to adjust for longer distance or to even do a decent hold over with. I do not want to remove that scope so I was looking to install a FFP optic with a good MIL reticle and good turrets on another rifle so I can have a shot a long range game in the Free State province. My PH told me to expect shots from 200-400y more or less and the 308 as is was good for only about 300y with confidence. I have two candidates for the plains game gun. One is the Husky and the other is my old Mauser 98 in 270 that has been my go to deer rifle for decades. Whichever one shoots best at 200-400y will be the go-to. Sorry for high jacking your thread. I attached a shot of the Blue Wildebeest and the little FN Browning 308 just for fun.

    View attachment 8502179

    View attachment 8502174
    Click to expand...
    Hijack away! I love seeing the pictures of Africa, the animals, and especially the old rifles. I owned a Crown Grade Husky in 270 for about 20 years. It was a fantastic rifle. I had a very old Leupold 4X (I think it I was a 4X, maybe 6X) and it was truly a MOA rifle out to 200-250 yards (I never shot it any further due to the scope). I regret selling it along with most all of my other firearms to fund this new lifestyle. Well I don’t really regret it as I am so happy have no debt and not working as much! But if it were chambered in 30-06 I most certainly would have not sold it, I still need to buy a hunting rifle. I am slowly building a small collection of firearms again, but just stuff that has a purpose & I use for the intended purpose. I do love the old rifles like the Husqvarna. Thank you for sharing!
     
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