NOW I REMEMBER WHY I LOVE MY DILLON CARBIDE DIES

Edsel

Edsel

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 9, 2013
832
398
#1
IMG_4166.jpeg


Ugh.

My second instance ever.

I suppose I’ve been lucky, over the tens of thousands that I’ve gone through thus far…

This is a Forster FLS Small Base Die.

I was uniforming some machinegun - fired garbage brass.



The Dillon dies have the wrench flats + stuck case extractor designed into the dies themselves, no extra parts or tools needed.

1727206588515.png


Now I’ve to wait for that RCBS 9340 Stuck Case Remover to get shipped…

The case rim is gone.

Any alternatives other than waiting at the moment?

EDIT: This happened because I left the case in the die in full compression - did something else for an hour or so - came back to where I left off, and voila! Seized die, wouldn't budge. The wax was probably squeezed out over that one hour.
 
Last edited:
  • Sad
Reactions: lightman
#5
Come to think of it, I’ve never had a REALLY stuck case. I’ve never ran MG brass either.
Brother in law got a little stingy with the lube a while back and stuck a .30-06 pretty good. He did get it out, but I can’t recall how.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#6
Potsy said:
I’ve never ran MG brass either.
Click to expand...

Don’t get lured by “bulk pricing.”

They’re absolutely horrible.

Trash - tier consumables.

Tempted to just throw them out, but I can’t stand the idea of such waste.

I got mine when I first started handloading.

They require a LOT of Imperial Sizing Wax…

Brass Springback is significant and highly variable unless one uses much longer dwell times and various case sizing acrobatics…

…And the torque required for sizing may be inducing more wear / linkage slop on my press.

And this is on a high torque Forster Co -Ax.

Bloated Brass and a Small Base Die…

The worst combination ever.
 
Last edited:
#8
jet_lagged said:


DIY yourself a stuck case remover, if you already have a decent sized tap sitting around? Drill out the primer hole, tap/thread that hole, then use washers and a bolt with a wrench on it to exert tension against the bottom of the die to pull the case out
Click to expand...


Saw some YouTube videos approaching it that way…

Unfortunately…

Drill Bits of All Sizes… Check.
Taps… Nope.
Sockets of All Sizes… Check.
Somekinda Standoff… Nope.
Washer… Nope.
Fasteners… Nope.

I suppose I could use a block of wood and a spade bit in lieu of the Socket / Standoff / Washer :ROFLMAO:

The RCBS kit is on its way.

I’ll wait :)
 
Last edited:
#9
IMG_4184.jpeg


Already practiced drilling out a centered hole using a smaller drill bit.

Best to use a low torque, high speed setting so the bit doesn’t “grab.”

Easy enough, brass yields readily to hardened steel - odds are, I won’t be catastrophically messing this one up :ROFLMAO:
 
Last edited:
#11
Edsel said:
Don’t get lured by “bulk pricing.”

They’re absolutely horrible.

Trash - tier consumables.

Tempted to just throw them out, but I can’t stand the idea of such waste.

I got mine when I first started handloading.

They require a LOT of Imperial Sizing Wax…

Brass Springback is significant and highly variable unless one uses much longer dwell times and various case sizing acrobatics…

…And the torque required for sizing may be inducing more wear / linkage slop on my press.

Bloated Brass and a Small Base Die…

The worst combination ever.
Click to expand...

send to me.. i’ll process with extra lubrication, and run it on autodrive
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#12
It looks like you have the die guts emptied of it?
Just get a flat end metal rod down the neck and a hammer and smack the shit out of it

If you want to get cute, keyboard cleaner turned upside down so it blast the freezing refrigerant, spray that down the neck in the case in an effort to shrink the brass away from the die body before you smack it
 
#14
Lube your cases enough... it only takes one with not enough lube to cause a problem.
What about hybrid cases? Conventional ways do not work, neither dies the standard RCBS stuck case remover, as the hole left is larger than the 1/4x20 die.

So if That doesn't work with hybrid cases, the SS head breaks off below the die body, as shown. What do ya do?
I use either mill or lathe to center the die and drill the out of round jagged hole round to except a 7/16 × 20 UNF thread, and pull out with a 7/16x 20 bolt over spacers.
As a modified RCBC stuck case remover.
Getting it centered is critical as there is little room for error or the tap could damage the die.
 

Attachments

  • 20240826_173943.jpg
    20240826_173943.jpg
    555.3 KB · Views: 32
  • 20240826_173018.jpg
    20240826_173018.jpg
    412.3 KB · Views: 34
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel and hkguns
#15
Buy a stuck case extractor. They are cheap and easy. If you stuck one case, you might stick another. I think mine has a 1/4x20 tap, a smaller drill, and some small parts. Drill out the primer pocket, tap the primer pocket with the tap (a tap wrench is helpful but not required), assemble, twist the nut and yer done. It is easier if you the die into a vice while you are working on it. Either wrap the die with a rag or use soft jaws to preserve the die threads. Easy to use, takes just a few minutes and you are back in business.

Why not just pull the ejector rod, insert a rod and hammer it out? If you still have an expander button, that may be be difficult. I did like the freon idea.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#16
I just removed one for a buddy last week...you can get everything you need at your local or big box hardware store for around $10. I used a 1/4x20 tap, you can get the kits with the provided appropriate bit size. Some washers ,a deep well socket and a 1/4 × 20 socket head bolt will get ya back in action.

Store it away for the next just in case..



Screenshot_20240924_092037_Messages.jpgScreenshot_20240924_091958_Messages.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#19
45-90 said:
So if That doesn't work with hybrid cases, the SS head breaks off below the die body, as shown. What do ya do?
I use either mill or lathe to center the die and drill the out of round jagged hole round to except a 7/16 × 20 UNF thread, and pull out with a 7/16x 20 bolt over spacers.
Click to expand...



I suppose I would try this approach, if that happened…
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 45-90
#21
bax said:
Why not just pull the ejector rod, insert a rod and hammer it out? If you still have an expander button, that may be be difficult. I did like the freon idea.
Click to expand...

Tried...

It wouldn't budge without excess violence.

Don't want to force it.

IMG_4205.jpeg


Even tried using the press itself, see above - but it seems that there's almost ZERO torque at the beginning of the Forster Co - Ax's downstroke.

Didn't want to fiddle with the lock ring and mess up all those painstakingly set measurements.

Decided to be patient and wait for the tap to come.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 45-90
#22
hkguns said:
I don't see how a Dillon die prevents not using enough lube and sticking a case. I've done it several times, it was always my fault and not the fault of the die.
Click to expand...

Who's blaming what?

Total reading comprehension failure with a dash of prejudice :)

Edsel said:


The Dillon dies have the wrench flats + stuck case extractor designed into the dies themselves, no extra parts or tools needed.
Click to expand...


The topic at hand.
 
Last edited:
#23
Edsel said:


I suppose I could try this approach…
Click to expand...

A case head separation is much easier to remove "pressure wise" than a stuck case in a die. But difficult by its location, broke off in the chamber.
Some will come out with just a cleaning rod and a oversized bore brush, pushing on the case mouth and body.
The method above with a large centered tap also was used to extract a case, that had case head separation in the sizing die of a 300 Weatherby.
Every method known to man is good to have and may be implemented in a particular stuck case situation when others won't work for the oddities that occur, in rifle or die.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#25
Bantam1 said:
Thread the die into the press, get a long punch and a hammer. Knock the case out from the top with your punch and hammer. Do this before you drill it.
Click to expand...

Edsel said:
Tried...

It wouldn't budge without excess violence.

Don't want to force it.

View attachment 8509168

Even tried using the press itself, see above - but it seems that there's almost ZERO torque at the beginning of the Forster Co - Ax's downstroke.

Decided to be patient and wait for the tap to come.
Click to expand...
 
#26
Next time don’t SB size MG brass in one step. Run them through a Redding Body Die first, then through a standard FL die, then through a SB die. I know it’s more work but you’ll never stick a case.

Or roll size them first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#27
918v said:
Next time don’t SB size MG brass in one step. Run them through a Redding Body Die first, then through a standard FL die, then through a SB die. I know it’s more work but you’ll never stick a case.

Or roll size them first.
Click to expand...

Edsel said:
EDIT: This happened because I left the case in the die in full compression - did something else for an hour or so - came back to where I left off, and voila! Seized die, wouldn't budge. The wax was probably squeezed out over that one hour.
Click to expand...

Entirely my own doing.
 
#28
I've used the RCBS stuck case remover for 50 yrs...look at the $3.59 price on the box.
It works, except on the hybrid or case head separation cases. So I made one on the lathe that pulls both types of case problems.
 

Attachments

  • 20240924_124326.jpg
    20240924_124326.jpg
    441.4 KB · Views: 22
  • 20240924_123848.jpg
    20240924_123848.jpg
    812.1 KB · Views: 19
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#29
supercorndogs said:
I have never seen anything short of a stuck case extractor work.
Click to expand...

Flat based punch leave Die in press . I also use a case removal tool by RCBS . I reformed 1K M240 spent 7.62X51 cases ,which had been sacked out of a Chopper sling arrangement . Personally I thing the chamber was worn out ,never resized such out of spec. brass in MY 58 years of pulling the handles .
(y) I've unstuck 100's ,as I experimented with various permanent Die lubrication formulations over last 2 decades .
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#31
Bantam1 said:
Thread the die into the press, get a long punch and a hammer. Knock the case out from the top with your punch and hammer. Do this before you drill it.
Click to expand...
Yes I use Wilson bushing dies with no expander ball, just thread out the decapping spindle.
Drop a long 4'", 1/4" dia bolt and smack with a hammer, easiest of all.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ex E6 and Edsel
#33
I have a case extractor tool for removing separated case heads . This got ME to thinking can you really see signs before it happens ?.

I'm not positive that's 100% reliable ,as I've had a couple over 58 years and NEVER saw them coming . I still use a paper clip inside especially on MY Belted magnums ,the belt can deceive the eye .

What I've never experienced is case head separation this high up the body ,have any of you ?. I've never even seen any this high up .

First video , the second video , OH Yes absolutely and that's normal occurrence and what I've experienced .

Fyi : I'm on #46 reload 1 grain under max for all reloads with some 1942 ,43 LC & SL M2 .30 Cal. brass ** ,that I reconditioned ( Ultrasonic cleaned prepped partial annealing or ductility restoration ) . I'm firing them out of a couple of My Garands and haven't even lost a rim . I did lose two cases ,due to MY cutting them , so as to properly measure wall thickness . I'm determined to see IF I get #50 reloads on these cases safely . That brass ** was left on a military range for perhaps 40 years ,before a friend acquired it . He in turn left it outside in plastic buckets for another 30 + years , before I finally got hold of it . Then 8-10 years passed Before I did anything with them ,as they were Extremely UGLY in the beginning . Before & After ultrasonic cleaning photos .
There were also 1954-56 , as well as match 1957-68 , 7.62X51 cases mixed through out the lot. Oh what joy separating all of it ,NOT !
:)






 

Attachments

  • photo 2.jpg
    photo 2.jpg
    246.9 KB · Views: 13
  • Original 1942 cases cleaned up.jpg
    Original 1942 cases cleaned up.jpg
    478.1 KB · Views: 10
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#34
Ex E6 said:
I have a case extractor tool for removing separated case heads . This got ME to thinking can you really see signs before it happens ?.
Click to expand...

Wow.

That’s some ancient brass…

[.308 Winchester]

Regarding case head separations - I’m not as concerned when it comes to my bolt guns - when it happens, it happens… The most it does is schmutz up the polish of the chamber, as the case head still obturates the breech. In my semiautos, I limit them to five firings, then move them over to the bolt gun heap.

[Magnum Rifles]

Hm.

Haven’t had enough experience to gauge the threshold.

I suppose I’ll use my my borescope after the third firing, when I get there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ex E6
#35
Ex E6 said:
I still use a paper clip inside especially on MY Belted magnums ,the belt can deceive the eye .
Click to expand...

IMG_3814.jpeg


IMG_3815.jpeg


I like recycling the wire from those Chinese Takeout rice / noodle boxes.

No need for a “thin gauge paperclip” - what matters is how you snip the wire with your pliers to get that fine point.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ex E6
#39
IMG_4515.jpeg


Easy enough, but required far more effort that I thought it would.

Probably because of the bloated Lake City + Small Base Die combination.

Had to break out the ratchet, even needed to extend the handle all the way.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: biggershooter
#40
IMG_4524.jpeg


Just to be clear that this isn’t some kind of Ford / Chevy brand loyalty buffoonery…

Those wrench flats are what make the Dillon dies so convenient.

IMG_4596.jpeg


Instead of tapping / threading the case and pulling it out with all those acrobatics…

One simply threads in the rod where the expander normally is, and pushes the stuck case out with a pair of wrenches - one on the flats and another on the depriming assembly - and you can do it on your lap if you wanted to.
 
Last edited:
#41
Edsel said:
View attachment 8512470

That little bit of Sesame Seed oil helped oodles.

Gotta lube the tap with some sort of cutting oil.
Click to expand...

I use 60% paint thinner ,25% acetone and 15% hydraulic ISO 15 fluid or sometimes just Boeshield T 9 . First concoction works well on rusty fasteners like trailer lug bolts ,exposed to saltwater corrosion for example .
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
#42
If I may offer a hint. The old RCBS extractors used to work like this. After drilling and tapping the case, put the spacer over case head. Spin a nut onto the bolt. Slip a washer between the nut and the spacer. Screw the bolt into the case. Holding the bolt head in one position, spin the nut-washer down to the spacer then using an open end wrench, start wrenching. This usually works in about one turn of the nut and is very easy. It is easier to do if you can hold the die in a vice with tape of cloth like you did or with some sort of soft vice jaws.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Edsel
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

atefft22
Need Help replacing lost gear in Maui (Lahaina) Fire
Replies
76
Views
3K
atefft22
atefft22
robozebra
My Quest for the Big 5 (kinda…)
Replies
81
Views
3K
robozebra
robozebra
AZIROC
My 224 Valkyrie build / reloading progress
Replies
6
Views
966
AZIROC
AZIROC
TheGerman
Haven't used my Dillon 650 in forever; make sure I still remember this right
Replies
6
Views
595
padom
padom
T
300 PRC
Replies
145
Views
30K
rustyinbend
rustyinbend
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts