-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
- Thread starter patches
- Start date
This one .. approx. 200 50bmg.... 100 375CT and 200 or so 338 Lap..
Used the Arken on the 375CT at 2800yds yesterday... 
www.snipershide.com
Arken EP5 7- 35 .. Standing in for some Alpha Glass
www.snipershide.com
I know there has been a bit of a dust up over at DT, but credit where credit is due. I ordered a standard length handguard for my SRS and two and a half weeks later it arrived exactly as ordered. I know this is the bare minimum standard of service but I’m glad to see them met post cyber attack.
Another kitchen window whistlepig.
Hole in face is the entrance wound, no exit wound and no blood.
40gr V-max from a 16.5" SAC barrel. I figured it would do more damage....
Hole in face is the entrance wound, no exit wound and no blood.
40gr V-max from a 16.5" SAC barrel. I figured it would do more damage....
I thought he said it was a projectile DT was making.
Any one looking for an additional bolt head?
www.snipershide.com
Accessories - DTA Desert Tech standard 473 bolt head
If you've already got a magnum bolt assembly, pick this bolt head up and you can get started in the smaller calibers and save a ton of money. It is used but fully functional. Standard .473 right hand 308/6.5 Creed/260 etc bolt head. It's an extra from my SRS-A1. $40 shipped
www.snipershide.com
Just started looking at the SRS a little while ago and find it very intriguing. Part of me would like it for Montana elk hunting, but it's a bit hefty. Any way to lighten them up?
What do you guys use these rifles for mostly? (Trying to learn where they shine)
How do you carry them around over longer distances? (I heard they are awkward to carry)
Does the bolt operation take a lot of getting used to?
Appreciate any feedback!
What do you guys use these rifles for mostly? (Trying to learn where they shine)
How do you carry them around over longer distances? (I heard they are awkward to carry)
Does the bolt operation take a lot of getting used to?
Appreciate any feedback!
The versatility of the platform is the main issue, for me.
You can have one scope with many rifles, and man oh man I have had so many since 2009. I just shoot steel and paper these days, but did briefly hunt with an SRS. It’s difficult to get it trimmed down, but a Covert with 16.5-20” thinner profile barrel plus a compact scope is a handy platform. The weight is mitigated a bit by the superior balance of being a bullpup, and for long movements it can fit in or strap to a pack. You can also remove the barrel in 15 seconds to help balance out things if need be. And yes, running the bolt can feel awkward the first time you do it, but you get used to it quickly. Maybe not if you’re wanting to run it fast on scope like a PRS match.
You can have one scope with many rifles, and man oh man I have had so many since 2009. I just shoot steel and paper these days, but did briefly hunt with an SRS. It’s difficult to get it trimmed down, but a Covert with 16.5-20” thinner profile barrel plus a compact scope is a handy platform. The weight is mitigated a bit by the superior balance of being a bullpup, and for long movements it can fit in or strap to a pack. You can also remove the barrel in 15 seconds to help balance out things if need be. And yes, running the bolt can feel awkward the first time you do it, but you get used to it quickly. Maybe not if you’re wanting to run it fast on scope like a PRS match.
I hunt with mine out west. They are a bit heavy compared to a lightweight traditional setup that you could get in around 7-8#. But there is a give and take to both.
with the DT you have about 11" less length to haul around in your pack compared to a traditional rifle with the same barrel length. This makes navigating terrain and under branches and stuff much easier and also make the gun so much nicer to swing around anywhere. fits in the tent better or the truck.
The rifle is a little heavier: with a Mark5HD and a 22" standard taper DT barrel, no mono pod, no bipod. You are going to be around 10.3# ( i think with some customization there is about another 1/2# or so to be saved in the butt pad, magazine. This is something I am working on doing. So at best with a bipod your gunna be around 11#, with a can 11.5-12#
The DT is really well balanced, when you plant the rifle against something it is rock solid. Off hand shots are like shooting an AR15.
My rifle also shoots 1/4 moa with just about anything i put through it between my 6.5 PRC, 7PRC, 300 Norma, and my .308 is just under 1/2moa. Another plus. one platform many calibers. My 6.5 PRC (pictured below with my custom carbon fiber rail that i sell) is my truck gun for coyotes 18" barrel with a can. I have a 7PRC that is my back country mule deer setup and my white tail setup, then i have my 300 Norma that is my elk setup, and a .308 trainer barrel.
The bolt question. run it with a purpose and its pretty good. it's got a little more clunk to it, id say you come off target a bit more compared to a regular high end custom action but not enough to matter while hunting. For me the only thing i would see the DT struggling in is a PRS match.
Attachments
@treillw,
Here you go my man.
www.snipershide.com
Here you go my man.
Firearms - Desert Tech SRS-A2 package (a big one)
Desert Tech SRS-A2 Long handguard with arca rail Covert handguard with arca rail 26” 6.5 creedmoor barrel (2) 6rd short action magazines (2) 10rd short action magazines (7) 5 rd long action magazines (2) 8rd long action magazines Standard bolt assembly (.473) Magnum bolt assembly (.540) Short...
www.snipershide.com
I hunt with mine. Moose, elk. Heck, tree stand for white tail deer back east. They’re heavy, but tolerable. Out west I carry a pack with a tripod too.
I patrol carry, tip down, some PRS sling, or a biathlon sling if just the rifle.
The buttock monopod is *chefs kiss* for prone shots. Covert length, carbon fiber barrel, lighter scope (nightforce NX8). I trimmed a loaded 6.5cm setup to about 11# like that. And I hunted with full length 338LM too.
It’s not super light like a skinny deer rifle on your shoulder, but, once you put glass and a bipod and stock pack on those, they stop slinging light on your shoulder too.
Find Rob at SPR
And yes you def want the 223
And yes you def want the 223
Rob and SPR; goes under PR driver here, and he’s great.
I’ve heard rumor that Short Action Customs is discontinuing the 223 conversion. Phone em up.
I have one and love it. A few light primer strikes here and there and I broke it in, but reliable now, and cheap and fun to use. Plan on 2-3 barrels and kits. I like going all the way up to 338LM, because, well, more is better.
They are all dead nuts accurate.
They are all expensive.
I still get the Ron Swanson giggles every time I break mine out, especially to real distance, and get a cold bore hit at absurd distance.
And every one of my buddies and guides has, in order, made fun of it for being tactical, questioned why I’m humping the weight, then picked their jaw off the ground when I used it to make what they felt was an impossible shot.
Everyone in this thread has probably hand loaded a pet load that just cuts a ragged hole.
Buy it!
We have the a factory complete 26” .338 LM kit. I also have 18”, 22.5”, 27”, and 28” Proof Carbon .338 barrels in stock for the SRS. In .308 we have the factory 22” kit along with 18” and 22.5” proof carbon .308 barrels.
Started work on something new. The factory cheek rest doesn't go high enough for me so I made one from carbon fiber. This is a quick and dirty R&D unit. I'm trying to create a replacement for the stock itself now. I have some improvements to the factory model I'm trying to implement like AR-15 grip compatibility, among other major updates. The carbon fiber cheek rest is tons more comfortable. It's also more rigid and lighter. I used 5 layers of carbon fiber and went through numerous resins before I found just the right one.
Last edited:
yup i agree the factory one does not go high enough, i just took a krg xray cheek rest and bolted it on top of the factory one, but yours is much more professional looking
For anyone looking to shave weight off their SRS, the Proof Carbon barrels @PRDRIVER sells are about 30% lighter than similar barrels
these were weighed with my wife's shitty bathroom scale, so take the actual values with a grain of salt, but pay attention to the difference
Top - truck axle 1.25" straight 30" .300NM from SAC - 9.8lbs
Middle - standard SAC profile 26" 6mm Creedmoor - 6.3lbs
Bottom - Proof Carbon 26" .300NM - 4.2lbs
When I unpacked the new barrel I was surprised just how light it is compared to the other 26" barrel.
these were weighed with my wife's shitty bathroom scale, so take the actual values with a grain of salt, but pay attention to the difference
Top - truck axle 1.25" straight 30" .300NM from SAC - 9.8lbs
Middle - standard SAC profile 26" 6mm Creedmoor - 6.3lbs
Bottom - Proof Carbon 26" .300NM - 4.2lbs
When I unpacked the new barrel I was surprised just how light it is compared to the other 26" barrel.
the larger chamber/bore of the 300 NM accounts for part of the difference, and then there's the muzzle device on the 6CM....
Fine, I was trying to avoid having to pull a barrel off one of the rifles, but so be it...
Proof Carbon 26" .300NM with honking PVA brake - 4.5 lbs
PVA 26" .300NM with Dead Air brake - 6.2 lbs
Still about 30% difference and that PVA brake is definitely heavier
Proof Carbon 26" .300NM with honking PVA brake - 4.5 lbs
PVA 26" .300NM with Dead Air brake - 6.2 lbs
Still about 30% difference and that PVA brake is definitely heavier
Hey guys, i picked up this .300wm bolt off the Hide a while ago and im getting ready to spin up a barrel for it. It looks like this bolt has been reworked after it was finished and im wondering if the massive chamfer on the firing pin hole is going to be an issue. Any thoughts?
Attachments
Yeah, IIRC DT released some of those that were out of spec. They may warranty it, or maybe you could bush it. There is talk of it on this thread a couple of years and probably many pages back
Love it, I considered making some of these as well if my rails would have sold more.Started work on something new. The factory cheek rest doesn't go high enough for me so I made one from carbon fiber. This is a quick and dirty R&D unit. I'm trying to create a replacement for the stock itself now. I have some improvements to the factory model I'm trying to implement like AR-15 grip compatibility, among other major updates. The carbon fiber cheek rest is tons more comfortable. It's also more rigid and lighter. I used 5 layers of carbon fiber and went through numerous resins before I found just the right one.
Sadly the demand for these rifles and their accessories is very small.
I also considered carbon skins with AR15 handles, different mag well and mag drop setup as well for better PRS purposes. But its just not worth the investment to barley sell 20 parts.
I would buy one of your carbon risers if you made one, or offer a trade but my rail does not work with the SRS-M2 variant. only the SRS-A2 because of the top rail.
I'm happy to make one for you. Let me upgrade my membership again so I don't run afoul of the rules by posting a price. Anyone else that wants one, LMK. It takes me about 3 hours to make 1 of them but I get efficiency gains with more than one. Cost would be nicely under $100 shipped and I include hardware. The one on my rifle includes some jam nuts and spring bits so I can independently adjust the protrusion of the front and rear of the riser for a cleaner cheek weld. If you want that ability, LMK.
I'm currently working on making a replacement for the stock itself from CF (and other materials like G10). I've also been toying with the idea of enabling the use of AI mags but that's a really major change that I haven't tested for feasibility yet and I'm just recovering from a huge fire that set me back on the CF stock project.
If someone wants a riser in something other than CF I have other textiles available (fiberglass, light denim, heavy denim, Hawaiian shirt type patterns, burlap jute, kevlar, etc.... I can tint the resin nearly any color, I can add glow in the dark to them and I can add in diamond flake, pearl, candy, etc... if you want to get shiny.
Funny you ask, I’m about to purchase an integrated 8.6 barrel from a company out of Texas.
I bought a .510 Whisper barrel but am having a little issue with loads.
I bought a .510 Whisper barrel but am having a little issue with loads.
I got my HTI trigger down to 16 ounces by polishing the sear engagement surfaces of the transfer bar like I did on my SRS. I was slightly surprised to realize that the entire trigger and transfer bar is the same across both platforms.
If you want to know how you do it look carefully when you cock the bolt right before you take out that transfer bar to see where the shorter fork on the “U” engages with the sear. You want to polish the out/side of the short end of the U (the part that contacts the sear), and for measure I also polished the end of that fork of the U, the end that points toward the butt stock. I polished it so good that I got a little burr on it and then I knew I had removed just enough material that it must be about the 5000 grit of the black surgical Arkansas Stone. Do not radius it that makes the trigger worse.
I used a surgical black Arkansas stone but probably anything very fine would work. Almost 0 creep. Not as good as my SRS but pretty darn good. I bet I could remove the rest of the creep if I could polish the contact surface on the seer, but for the life of me, I can’t figure out how to get out the pin that holds the seer in the chassis body
Finally, the sear engagement screw just in front of the trigger is key for these adjustments. The trigger weight screw behind the hammer does not make near as much a difference. to be really safe, you need to back that screw out one quarter of a turn beyond where it will not engage the seer and the hammer will fall. After you have done that, you can screw it inwards in small fractions of a turn until you have removed all the creep, and yet the hammer still will not fall when you slam the butt of the gun against the ground. That is your ultimate test, and 1/4 of a turn out is (in my guns) a definitely safe zone, but that retains just a little bit of creep. So then you should turn it back in 1/16 of a turn at a time until there is no creep and yet the hammer will not fall with a serious shock on the buttstock.
Everything is a compromise. My safety shoe no longer functions because I did the Orkin modification which is not compatible with the modifications above. So I need to get a new safety shoe or have my buddy TIG weld it back to specification
If you want to know how you do it look carefully when you cock the bolt right before you take out that transfer bar to see where the shorter fork on the “U” engages with the sear. You want to polish the out/side of the short end of the U (the part that contacts the sear), and for measure I also polished the end of that fork of the U, the end that points toward the butt stock. I polished it so good that I got a little burr on it and then I knew I had removed just enough material that it must be about the 5000 grit of the black surgical Arkansas Stone. Do not radius it that makes the trigger worse.
I used a surgical black Arkansas stone but probably anything very fine would work. Almost 0 creep. Not as good as my SRS but pretty darn good. I bet I could remove the rest of the creep if I could polish the contact surface on the seer, but for the life of me, I can’t figure out how to get out the pin that holds the seer in the chassis body
Finally, the sear engagement screw just in front of the trigger is key for these adjustments. The trigger weight screw behind the hammer does not make near as much a difference. to be really safe, you need to back that screw out one quarter of a turn beyond where it will not engage the seer and the hammer will fall. After you have done that, you can screw it inwards in small fractions of a turn until you have removed all the creep, and yet the hammer still will not fall when you slam the butt of the gun against the ground. That is your ultimate test, and 1/4 of a turn out is (in my guns) a definitely safe zone, but that retains just a little bit of creep. So then you should turn it back in 1/16 of a turn at a time until there is no creep and yet the hammer will not fall with a serious shock on the buttstock.
Everything is a compromise. My safety shoe no longer functions because I did the Orkin modification which is not compatible with the modifications above. So I need to get a new safety shoe or have my buddy TIG weld it back to specification
Last edited:
510 whisper really intrigues me but I don’t want to buy another suppressor. 8.6 seems like a fun round to play with and make ya giggle at the range. Thanks for the company, I sent SAC an email as well.
I will take one once you upgrade your account.
Upgrade completed. Apparently paypal isn't a valid payment method anymore. I just came back from Africa after deleting all my American banking so I had to get new accounts and cards here in the States.
@jbrand11 @Jrtex @secondofangle2 ^^^ PM me details of how high you want your cheek piece and I'll get them rolling for you. I have 2 blanks in process now and I'll start 2 more in the morning. If you want color added to the resin LMK.
@jbrand11 @Jrtex @secondofangle2 ^^^ PM me details of how high you want your cheek piece and I'll get them rolling for you. I have 2 blanks in process now and I'll start 2 more in the morning. If you want color added to the resin LMK.
