Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

For what it’s worth, shorty .300NM and .338LM are fun but really obnoxious and stunted. 18” .300WM might be a better fit if you run heavies and you’re staying inside of 400m or so.
 
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Another concern I had was unburnt powder ending up in the can. Saw someones can blow up from using another guys loads that were tuned for his 32" barrel. I plan on using factory ammo as this will be a hunting barrel only and I don't plan on doing much else with it. May just go without the can for hunting, would help the overall length at least.

Thanks for the input, I'll check out velocity of the 300wm on a shorty.

*Edited to add an interesting link on velocity of the 300wm in shorter barrels.
300 Winchester Magnum: How Does Barrel Length Change Velocity- A 16″ 300 Win Mag?
 
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You can also try using a slightly faster burning powder with a reduced load to get more complete powder burn in a short barrel. I usually just test that out in Quickload to see if I'm at least getting close to 95% powder burn.
 
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Oh and for comparison, with an 18" .338LM it's really hard to get 300gr bullets going faster than 2500fps from my experience. Even with a monster brake, that short .338LM is not pleasant to shoot for long, but I suppose if you're hunting then that's not a problem? A can would make it less of a TBI generator, but you'd want to make sure it was rated for such a short barrel.

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if you want a 338 bore, but can't burn all the powder in a 18" bbl, why not switch to a lower capacity 338 cartridge.
I don't know how live/dead of a cartridge it is these days, but it would seem like a 338 RCM might be just what you are looking for.
 
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I'm considering putting a covert hand guard and 16" or 18" barrel on my A2 for moose hunting and am looking for cartridge recommendations. Preferably 338 cal however 30 cal would do. 338 federal maybe?

My goal here is the shortest rifle possible which can still deliver enough power out to ~400 yards. I understand I'll be suffering quite a bit with this short of a barrel, not looking to go beyond 400 or so and in all reality the shot will likely be inside 200.
I have 18" .338 LM kits on the shelf if you're interested.
 
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Reload 285-ELDM for about $2.00 a pop

Lapua brass will get 10-20 reloads so about $.20 a shot, 90ish grains of powder about $0.75 and then $1.00 for projectile and $0.10 for primer

Cheaper than fed GMMM 223 ammo
Speaking of 285 ELDM....

Re Zero,d the SRS 338 lap yesterday with S&B Ultra Short......5 shots 100yds 285 ELDM... :)
 

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Hey guys, need some pro advice. I just got a new barrel for the SRS A1. Breaking it in and cleaning every round as usual.

Little hiccup. It’s blowing primers out with factory Hornady ammo. And I mean BLOWING them out.
Massive cratering and piercing. Some primers were stuck in the bolt, some would fly out when spent shell was ejected, I think 1 got obliterated.
I shot 1 round suppressed and it seemed fine. Started the cleaning process and didn’t want to fiddle with the suppressor every round, so I shot 5 unsupressed.
Those are the 5 that were blowing like crazy and had massive bolt lift etc.
Any ideas on this? Any insight you may have is much appreciated.
Ive never had a barrel do this before with factory ammo. Barrel was cut with a Manson reamer. I contacted the barrel maker and asked for more detailed specs. Waiting on a response. Here are 2 fired brass. I need some help trying to resolve this.
Thanks
 

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Hey guys, need some pro advice. I just got a new barrel for the SRS A1. Breaking it in and cleaning every round as usual.

Little hiccup. It’s blowing primers out with factory Hornady ammo. And I mean BLOWING them out.
Massive cratering and piercing. Some primers were stuck in the bolt, some would fly out when spent shell was ejected, I think 1 got obliterated.
I shot 1 round suppressed and it seemed fine. Started the cleaning process and didn’t want to fiddle with the suppressor every round, so I shot 5 unsupressed.
Those are the 5 that were blowing like crazy and had massive bolt lift etc.
Any ideas on this? Any insight you may have is much appreciated.
Ive never had a barrel do this before with factory ammo. Barrel was cut with a Manson reamer. I contacted the barrel maker and asked for more detailed specs. Waiting on a response. Here are 2 fired brass. I need some help trying to resolve this.
Thanks
Are you leaving solvent in the chamber after you clean? It’s an easy thing to do and could be causing the pressure spikes, especially if the first round was good.
 
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Has anyone had any luck with trigger mods to the newer A2/M2 trigger to get rid of creep and lower the weight a bit? My M2 has an inconsistent amount of creep. It's always there, sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Once it finally gets through the creep it breaks crisp. I feel like this trigger has a lot of potential to be great but It shits me to tears that they removed the adjustments from the A1 trigger. That trigger was excellent and certainly better than the A2 trigger. I really wish they were backwards compatible, I would just swap them.
 
Scroll up for several pages to my numerous posts on the topic. I got mine down to 16 ounces with zero creep.
How did you get the weight so low? I posted about the creep fix a while back but no creep doesn’t equate to a low trigger pull weight. My trigger won’t even go down to 2.5 lbs. I’ve tried to contact DT many times and finally got a response saying that someone will be reaching out. That was about three months ago at least. I despise this damn company.
 
The details on exactly what I did are seven pages up. You can just scroll through approximately February and just look for the pictures.



Yeah, that doesn’t work at all in my example. The set screw can be completely removed and I can’t get down to even 2.5lbs. I’m sure it’s because of DT complete lack of quality control I’m sure. I’d be happy if it made it down to 2 lbs which is already higher than Desert Tech’s own listed spec of 1.5 lbs.
 
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