I'm just glad you're finding out what a pain it is to be a left handed shooter. The struggle is real.
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As difficult as it can be, it has gotten a lot better.I'm just glad you're finding out what a pain it is to be a left handed shooter. The struggle is real.
I think I'm gonna get a T3 lite in 22-250 with 8 twist and put it in a XRS chassis. My local gunsmith can get me one for $870 and thread the barrel for $100. We will burn up that barrel on P dogs and then find a good pre fit.
Yep, you can buy an action, but at $800+ you're better off buying a CTR for $949 and selling off the parts you don't want/need...or just shooting the CTR as-is for a while since it's a fine rifle in its own right (maybe try that newish Hornady 100 grain ELD-VT?), then after a while you can replace the barrel with a 22-250, 22 Creed, 22GT, etc. with just a relatively simple barrel swap (if you aren't already aware, be prepared - Tikka barrels are installed with a high torque and an aggressive thread locking compound).I can't seem to get a tikka action without buying the whole rifle or I can and it just costs the same.
Yep, you can buy an action, but at $800+ you're better off buying a CTR for $949 and selling off the parts you don't want/need...or just shooting the CTR as-is for a while since it's a fine rifle in its own right (maybe try that newish Hornady 100 grain ELD-VT?), then after a while you can replace the barrel with a 22-250, 22 Creed, 22GT, etc. with just a relatively simple barrel swap (if you aren't already aware, be prepared - Tikka barrels are installed with a high torque and an aggressive thread locking compound).
I don't disagree - and I own both (a custom Tikka 6.5CM that started as a Tac A1 and an Origin with a 6GT Proof prefit) - but it's also worth considering that an Origin action by itself costs about the same or slightly more than an entire Tikka CTR rifle.Or you can get a Left Hand Origin and have the ability to buy the numerous prefits on the market in any caliber desired, have the option for interchangeable bolt heads and much higher market value. Just my $.02.
I don't disagree - and I own both (a custom Tikka 6.5CM that started as a Tac A1 and an Origin with a 6GT Proof prefit) - but it's also worth considering that an Origin action by itself costs about the same or slightly more than an entire Tikka CTR rifle.
Lefty CTR on EuroOptic linked above in this thread for $949.
Proof, Preferred Barrels, X-Caliber, PVA, McGowen (had issues with the chamber on the one I have, it shoots great now, they are under different management) OMR, Carbon Six, Criterion, Unknown Munitions. Probably more out there.Can I get names of "reputable" Tikka pre fits?
so buy an AI lmao.My turn off with the Rem 700 and it's clones is that the safety does not lock the bolt closed. Unless there are some that do? It's my number 1 and probably only complaint with my Desert tech SRS.
I did that but once the cdg came out I got rid of the AI cause i prefer it.
I'm not seeing what you mean with the UR prefit. I don't see them offer barreled actions.From my quick price comparison (not considering any sales) An Origin is a few hundred cheaper than a complete CTR.. $900 (Origin) vs $1149-$1240 Tikka CTR...
You can buy a UR Prefit for about $100 more and have a full custom barreled action with a tack driver barrel in any caliber you want.....
I'm not seeing what you mean with the UR prefit. I don't see them offer barreled actions.
... that's what we are talking about these days when we discuss prefit barrels.Avoid nut-barrels, they are Fugly, very 1990 and more trouble than they are worth. Settle on a shouldered pre-fit capable action.
If you look two posts above, right above the pretty picture is a link to pre-fit nut barrels. But you keep talking, and I will keep laughing... that's what we are talking about these days when we discuss prefit barrels.
Posted by somebody that has never posted in the Tikka thread, padom, and brought up by someone else that has never posted in the Tikka thread, you.If you look two posts above, right above the pretty picture is a link to pre-fit nut barrels. But you keep talking, and I will keep laughing
Posted by somebody that has never posted in the Tikka thread, padom, and brought up by someone else that has never posted in the Tikka thread, you.
Carbonsix, proof, PVA, preferred, and omr I am sure make non nut prefits
Funny thing is that you still have not figured out how to read or even do stealth research. I responded in the first 10 posts. So now, if may, I shall return to laughing at youPosted by somebody that has never posted in the Tikka thread, padom, and brought up by someone else that has never posted in the Tikka thread, you.
Carbonsix, proof, PVA, preferred, and omr I am sure make non nut prefits.
You thought I was referring to this thread? Ha. I was referring to the 13,079 post pinned Tikka T3 Thread.Funny thing is that you still have not figured out how to read or even do stealth research. I responded in the first 10 posts. So now, if may, I shall return to laughing at you
Gay as is in fun or happy right? What $6000 rifle should I build then if I wasn't set on being so gay?If you’re set on a Tikka you might as well do it in 6.5 Creedmoor. Both are equally gay. Might as well make it perfect.
So pardon my ignorance, but other than asthetics, what's wrong with a barrel nut? And how is the barrel secured without one?
You're limited on barrel contours (barrel nut excludes the heavier/thicker contours), and setting headspace is an additional step and something that can change on you if you aren't careful.
Some people consider the latter to be a pro, but honestly I have no desire to have a barrel setup in which the headspace can change (whether intentional or not).
A 1.062" straight Savage Small Shank nut prefit is a very heavy contour very similar to a Heavy Varmint. The only difference is the 0.138" diameter difference for the 3-5" from the shoulder when comparing to a HV. They weigh about the same. The only difference is if you want to run a 1.2" straight barrel...
Now, headspace DOES NOT change on a properly installed and torqued nut barrel. If you properly install and torque a nut barrel prefit on your action, your headspace is NEVER changing for the life of that barrel. Not intentionsally or unintentionally. If you have headspace changing on a nut barrel, you didnt install it right.
Now, maybe you left out some clarification on your statement and you meant to say if you run a nut barrel as a switch barrel prefit, switching between multiple nut barrels regularly, then yes, if you dont re-install the barrel the exact same way with the exact same gauges and torque to the exact same spec every time, then you can change your headspace.
A bunch of us shot tons of nut barrels for many many years before shouldered prefits existed and there was no accuracy or headspace issues compared to a shouldered prefit.
But, to be clear to keep the facts straight, there is nothing wrong with a nut barrel and headspace absolutely does not change if you headspace and install and properly torque that barrel on and shoot it until its shot out. Its no different than a shouldered barrel at that point.
Now, is a shouldered prefit easier to install and requires less tools. Yes. You simply screw the barrel on and torque it to your actions specifications. A nut barrel, you do the same but you need a headspace gauge to screw the barrel on to set the headspace. Is this hard, no. But it is another step and requires 1 more tool....
I'm not suggesting that the headspace will change while the barrel is installed.
Headspace can change between installations, whether intentionally or intentionally, however. How big of an issue this is or isn't, is down to how you manage it, but it is an additional thing to manage.
Pair up with @padom great explanations above.So pardon my ignorance, but other than asthetics, what's wrong with a barrel nut? And how is the barrel secured without one?
Shouldered: you will have your action wrench to torque the action on and the barrel vice holds the barrel.Ok. What kinda torque wrench do you use with shouldered prefits?
Shouldered: you will have your action wrench to torque the action on and the barrel vice holds the barrel.
Barrel nut: you have your action wrench, barrel vice holds the barrel and you have another little tool that goes on the nut to tighten it. Or a pipe wrench if youre a finish be damned sorta guy. I hold the action wrench to keep it from spinning relative to the barrel and then I tighten the nut to it with my other hand. Really you only need the barrel nut wrench but I find it much more manageable to have a tool to hold each piece rather than free handing it and spinning stuff with a bit of torque accidentally.
Internet picture.Probably worth pointing out to the OP that you also need a gauge that goes into the chamber to set headspace with the barrel nut.
Ok. What kinda torque wrench do you use with shouldered prefits?
Yep, my .223 shooting 77smk's takes less elevation to 1K than my .308.Yeah, I you only shoot AR grade 223, sure it might be considered to be a lower tier. Load a 77 up longer or move to even heavier bullets and you can definitely reach out and touch things. Have smith put a long match chamber in it and you can load to higher velocities with better accuracy. Or as been suggested get a a 223 AI chamber or even 22 creed and really go to town.
My turn off with the Rem 700 and it's clones is that the safety does not lock the bolt closed. Unless there are some that do? It's my number 1 and probably only complaint with my Desert tech SRS.
Criterion makes tikka prefit barrelsCan I get names of "reputable" Tikka pre fits?
With barrel nuts a far as I know from NSS. Wish they were shouldered prefits like the Zermatt.Criterion makes tikka prefit barrels
AI, Terminus, Curtis, Stiller, BAT, etc. To spend lots there's no end to options and they are all great hell can do almost 6k with just a scope these days.Gay as is in fun or happy right? What $6000 rifle should I build then if I wasn't set on being so gay?