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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Ok guys, im struggling with feeding .223 55gn. Soft points in my SRS A-1
I bought the .223 kit from SAC but chambered the barrel on my lathe.
the rounds are popping out of the mag before the round enters the chamber.
Its better if i feed it fast and hard but even then its 50/50. Im wondering if increasing my chamfer on at the entry of the tenon would help?
 

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New load for the 50.. 750 Amax 226gr AR 2218....COL..5.920" RWS case , RWS Primer
3 shots at 110yds
1200yds
2000yds

The 50 had enough energy at 2000yds to swing the 16mm thick plate with one of the lower hits to topple it!!

DNT still going strong....S&B 6-36.....out of action again!:cry:
 

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@DirtyDirty130 I feed 55's through mine all the time without issue. I suspect it's nothing to do with your tenon and everything to do with the mag retention system and slop in the mag well. Push forward on the rear lower end of the mag while pushing the bolt forward. If the thing feeds smoothly then we know what the problem is. Put a few layers of masking tape on the front end of your mag (effectively making the magazine marginally longer). See if that helps. If both things help, call up DT and tell them that your stock is out of spec in the mag well or mag release location. I have 3x SAC .223 mags and all of them feed excellently with anything from 45gn to 77gn. I have ~20x DT factory mags and some of them suffer occasional feeding issues but that's always to do with bullet nose dive from the crapass follower design.
 
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Doing some initial tests with that 26” .300NM Proof Carbon barrel I got from @PRDRIVER

Did some pressure testing with N165 pushing 176 A-Tips and 178 ELD-X since I have boatloads. Wow, kind of amazed I could get into 3400 fps with no pressure and using a single-base powder. These were really pleasant to shoot compared to some hot 220 LRHT loads I had from a long burned out barrel.
 
has anyone here physically seen the new 30-06 barrels that Desert tech makes? Just curious if they are the standard barrel profile or the light weight hunting profile, the website doesn’t say.

I realize they aren’t popular so it’s a long shot.
Was able to check one out in a local shop today, they are the light weight hunting contour in case anyone else was curious
 
Doing some initial tests with that 26” .300NM Proof Carbon barrel I got from @PRDRIVER

Did some pressure testing with N165 pushing 176 A-Tips and 178 ELD-X since I have boatloads. Wow, kind of amazed I could get into 3400 fps with no pressure and using a single-base powder. These were really pleasant to shoot compared to some hot 220 LRHT loads I had from a long burned out barrel.
I had a barrel made with a custom chamber throated to the longest length I could seat a 215 Berger in a 300WM case for more powder capicity with H1000. With 78.9 grains its running 2897 on average with no issues. That velocity is smoking with 175's. How many mils to 1000yds?
 
About 5 mils.

Super fast light bullets slow down faster, so it’s not really intended for ELR, but should be fun for the inside of 1200 yards spot I shoot most frequently day/night. My other two barrels are truck axles and so insanely accurate I want to preserve them for ELR as much as possible. With a .338 suppressor this thing is going to be a kitten.
 
I found that my .375 factory barrel performs the best after at LEAST 20 rounds. However I’m hearing from reputable sources on this forum that the carbon should be cleaned out after shooting to prevent rusting in the barrel and the barrel should have a few patches soaked with Hopes afterwards. Problem with doing that is I have to get the bore really dirty again before it goes back to shooting 1/2 MOA with a single digit ES.

Would applying Lock Ease colloidal graphite help with this issue?
 
I found that my .375 factory barrel performs the best after at LEAST 20 rounds. However I’m hearing from reputable sources on this forum that the carbon should be cleaned out after shooting to prevent rusting in the barrel and the barrel should have a few patches soaked with Hopes afterwards.

Of course this is an age old debate but I never clean a barrel until accuracy drops off. Nothing, not even an oily patch. Most of my barrels go hundreds of rounds before I find the need to clean them.
 
I found that my .375 factory barrel performs the best after at LEAST 20 rounds. However I’m hearing from reputable sources on this forum that the carbon should be cleaned out after shooting to prevent rusting in the barrel and the barrel should have a few patches soaked with Hopes afterwards. Problem with doing that is I have to get the bore really dirty again before it goes back to shooting 1/2 MOA with a single digit ES.

Would applying Lock Ease colloidal graphite help with this issue?
I usually shoot around 50-60 shots max , through my 375...then completely clean ( carbon /copper) and store with Hoppes. #9

Just shy of 2000 rounds on my factory barrel........ still less than 1/2 moa.
 
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I usually shoot around 50-60 shots max , through my 375...then completely clean ( carbon /copper) and store with Hoppes. #9

Just shy of 2000 rounds on my factory barrel........ still less than 1/2 moa.
Do you shoot those 50-60 all in one session? If not, do you coat your bore with some other agent between shooting sessions?
 
This is around the 1800 mark.... still sharp defined ....just heavily firecracked.
 

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Heading to my CF consultant today. He’s got my first set of (alpha version) stock bits going into the vacuum today. This version is going to be quite a bit heavier than the original by a good bit but still super light for the rigidity provided.

Does anyone have any damaged AI pattern mags that I could borrow? I need .308 length and 338lm length.
 
This is around the 1800 mark.... still sharp defined ....just heavily firecracked.
Anecdotal. I have found there is only some correlation between what the barrel looks like inside and how it shoots. Tooling marks, fire cracking, filiform erosion and yet this barrel still shoots sub MOA on my Tikka. I think only guys at the Frank Green level can make sense of this stuff.
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I found that my .375 factory barrel performs the best after at LEAST 20 rounds. However I’m hearing from reputable sources on this forum that the carbon should be cleaned out after shooting to prevent rusting in the barrel and the barrel should have a few patches soaked with Hopes afterwards. Problem with doing that is I have to get the bore really dirty again before it goes back to shooting 1/2 MOA with a single digit ES.

Would applying Lock Ease colloidal graphite help with this issue?
This is my experience. And speaking of Frank, he is the one the guys that recommended cleaning last with a Hops patch, my barrels have been rusts free since. After a good scrub down I loose my zero and it require 7-10 shots before the barrel settles back to it's last confirmed zero. If you listen to Hodnet, he just takes a carbon remover through and calls it a day.
 
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I’ve been training my son, who just turned 7, on a cheap Crickett 22 and then 22 mag.
He’s been dry firing with a Covert Chassis and SAC 223 conversion.
I set him loose last weekend…



The mono-pod makes it so easy. Granted, he looks like he’s on an anti tank rifle. But can work from Bench or prone, build a position, and keep cheek weld.

Hope for the future generation, Boys!
 
Just an FYI for anyone looking at ordering spare forend rails.
I ordered a few from Midwest Gun Works, all the long ones came in Silverback Airsoft Packaging and don't fit a real rifle, nothing on the website to indicate they would be substituted .

Post intended as a PSA , this is what I ordered;

 
Nice tripod! What is it!
It’s a Innorel ST384C off Amazon with a sunwayfoto IB-30 inverted ball head. The tripod is awesome, the head is a great light weight option for a fraction of the cost of the real RRS unit but it has some flex even when locked up. When I bought this setup RRS stuff was almost impossible to get in Canada and I was aiming for the most stability I could get in a light weight package. I’ll upgrade to a better head eventually.
 
UPDATE:

I’ve broken the back of the last of the known/foreseen problems with getting carbon fiber stocks made as direct replacements. The technical challenges are numerous, and for the individual wanting to make just one they are essentially insurmountable. So far I have put enough money into the project to assemble a whole new HTI with optic and 100rds.

Now I need some opinions:
Everything behind the mag well and in front of the monopod is empty space. What to do with it? Go for the skeleton kind of J-hook design, make it accept a spare 5rd mag, flatten the bottom (delete the 45deg slope in favor of a 90deg club foot), add a cup holder, container for bubbles and a bubble blowing loop, or whatever whackadoodle idea you might have.
 
Damn, good questions to ponder.

I'd lean towards the spare mag holder, you know because it would be in keeping with the SRS's unofficial lineage with the DSR-1.

Otherwise, the 90 degree club foot similar to the HTI would be a close second.
 
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Sons first time in the deer stand with me.
Epic distance shooting it was not, just a 4pt with enough meat to justify it on opening morning in northern tier NY.
But he had a blast; gutting out and anatomy lesson followed.
Butchering as well, and soon, kitchen time.

I have had him on a SAC 223 conversion ringing steel at our local range; farthest it goes is 250, but the 4” plate is a 90% hit rate for him.

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