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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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Ok guys, im struggling with feeding .223 55gn. Soft points in my SRS A-1
I bought the .223 kit from SAC but chambered the barrel on my lathe.
the rounds are popping out of the mag before the round enters the chamber.
Its better if i feed it fast and hard but even then its 50/50. Im wondering if increasing my chamfer on at the entry of the tenon would help?
I bought the .223 kit from SAC but chambered the barrel on my lathe.
the rounds are popping out of the mag before the round enters the chamber.
Its better if i feed it fast and hard but even then its 50/50. Im wondering if increasing my chamfer on at the entry of the tenon would help?
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has anyone here physically seen the new 30-06 barrels that Desert tech makes? Just curious if they are the standard barrel profile or the light weight hunting profile, the website doesn’t say.
I realize they aren’t popular so it’s a long shot.
I realize they aren’t popular so it’s a long shot.
New load for the 50.. 750 Amax 226gr AR 2218....COL..5.920" RWS case , RWS Primer
3 shots at 110yds
1200yds
2000yds
The 50 had enough energy at 2000yds to swing the 16mm thick plate with one of the lower hits to topple it!!
DNT still going strong....S&B 6-36.....out of action again!
3 shots at 110yds
1200yds
2000yds
The 50 had enough energy at 2000yds to swing the 16mm thick plate with one of the lower hits to topple it!!
DNT still going strong....S&B 6-36.....out of action again!
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@DirtyDirty130 I feed 55's through mine all the time without issue. I suspect it's nothing to do with your tenon and everything to do with the mag retention system and slop in the mag well. Push forward on the rear lower end of the mag while pushing the bolt forward. If the thing feeds smoothly then we know what the problem is. Put a few layers of masking tape on the front end of your mag (effectively making the magazine marginally longer). See if that helps. If both things help, call up DT and tell them that your stock is out of spec in the mag well or mag release location. I have 3x SAC .223 mags and all of them feed excellently with anything from 45gn to 77gn. I have ~20x DT factory mags and some of them suffer occasional feeding issues but that's always to do with bullet nose dive from the crapass follower design.
Doing some initial tests with that 26” .300NM Proof Carbon barrel I got from @PRDRIVER
Did some pressure testing with N165 pushing 176 A-Tips and 178 ELD-X since I have boatloads. Wow, kind of amazed I could get into 3400 fps with no pressure and using a single-base powder. These were really pleasant to shoot compared to some hot 220 LRHT loads I had from a long burned out barrel.
Was able to check one out in a local shop today, they are the light weight hunting contour in case anyone else was curious
We had some come in the shop. Someone at DT made a mistake and only ordered hunting contour barrels in 30-06. We returned ours to DT as we just don’t sell many hunting profile DT barrels.
That’s too bad, I was going to buy one until I saw that. Going custom now.
I had a barrel made with a custom chamber throated to the longest length I could seat a 215 Berger in a 300WM case for more powder capicity with H1000. With 78.9 grains its running 2897 on average with no issues. That velocity is smoking with 175's. How many mils to 1000yds?
About 5 mils.
Super fast light bullets slow down faster, so it’s not really intended for ELR, but should be fun for the inside of 1200 yards spot I shoot most frequently day/night. My other two barrels are truck axles and so insanely accurate I want to preserve them for ELR as much as possible. With a .338 suppressor this thing is going to be a kitten.
Super fast light bullets slow down faster, so it’s not really intended for ELR, but should be fun for the inside of 1200 yards spot I shoot most frequently day/night. My other two barrels are truck axles and so insanely accurate I want to preserve them for ELR as much as possible. With a .338 suppressor this thing is going to be a kitten.
I found that my .375 factory barrel performs the best after at LEAST 20 rounds. However I’m hearing from reputable sources on this forum that the carbon should be cleaned out after shooting to prevent rusting in the barrel and the barrel should have a few patches soaked with Hopes afterwards. Problem with doing that is I have to get the bore really dirty again before it goes back to shooting 1/2 MOA with a single digit ES.
Would applying Lock Ease colloidal graphite help with this issue?
Would applying Lock Ease colloidal graphite help with this issue?
Of course this is an age old debate but I never clean a barrel until accuracy drops off. Nothing, not even an oily patch. Most of my barrels go hundreds of rounds before I find the need to clean them.
I usually shoot around 50-60 shots max , through my 375...then completely clean ( carbon /copper) and store with Hoppes. #9
Just shy of 2000 rounds on my factory barrel........ still less than 1/2 moa.
Do you shoot those 50-60 all in one session? If not, do you coat your bore with some other agent between shooting sessions?
I apply to every high-end barrel I've ever owned. A couple have been DTA factory sticks.
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Heading to my CF consultant today. He’s got my first set of (alpha version) stock bits going into the vacuum today. This version is going to be quite a bit heavier than the original by a good bit but still super light for the rigidity provided.
Does anyone have any damaged AI pattern mags that I could borrow? I need .308 length and 338lm length.
Does anyone have any damaged AI pattern mags that I could borrow? I need .308 length and 338lm length.
Anecdotal. I have found there is only some correlation between what the barrel looks like inside and how it shoots. Tooling marks, fire cracking, filiform erosion and yet this barrel still shoots sub MOA on my Tikka. I think only guys at the Frank Green level can make sense of this stuff.
This is my experience. And speaking of Frank, he is the one the guys that recommended cleaning last with a Hops patch, my barrels have been rusts free since. After a good scrub down I loose my zero and it require 7-10 shots before the barrel settles back to it's last confirmed zero. If you listen to Hodnet, he just takes a carbon remover through and calls it a day.
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Haven’t shot this thing in months, finally got out to brush off the rust and get in some tripod practice for whitetail season next month.
Quick re-zero and a 3 round group then onto steel at 300 and 500 today.
Quick re-zero and a 3 round group then onto steel at 300 and 500 today.
I’ve been training my son, who just turned 7, on a cheap Crickett 22 and then 22 mag.
He’s been dry firing with a Covert Chassis and SAC 223 conversion.
I set him loose last weekend…
The mono-pod makes it so easy. Granted, he looks like he’s on an anti tank rifle. But can work from Bench or prone, build a position, and keep cheek weld.
Hope for the future generation, Boys!
He’s been dry firing with a Covert Chassis and SAC 223 conversion.
I set him loose last weekend…
The mono-pod makes it so easy. Granted, he looks like he’s on an anti tank rifle. But can work from Bench or prone, build a position, and keep cheek weld.
Hope for the future generation, Boys!
Just an FYI for anyone looking at ordering spare forend rails.
I ordered a few from Midwest Gun Works, all the long ones came in Silverback Airsoft Packaging and don't fit a real rifle, nothing on the website to indicate they would be substituted .
Post intended as a PSA , this is what I ordered;
www.midwestgunworks.com
I ordered a few from Midwest Gun Works, all the long ones came in Silverback Airsoft Packaging and don't fit a real rifle, nothing on the website to indicate they would be substituted .
Post intended as a PSA , this is what I ordered;
Desert Tech Detachable Picatinny Long Rail
Check out the deal on Desert Tech Detachable Picatinny Long Rail at MGW
It’s a Innorel ST384C off Amazon with a sunwayfoto IB-30 inverted ball head. The tripod is awesome, the head is a great light weight option for a fraction of the cost of the real RRS unit but it has some flex even when locked up. When I bought this setup RRS stuff was almost impossible to get in Canada and I was aiming for the most stability I could get in a light weight package. I’ll upgrade to a better head eventually.
UPDATE:
I’ve broken the back of the last of the known/foreseen problems with getting carbon fiber stocks made as direct replacements. The technical challenges are numerous, and for the individual wanting to make just one they are essentially insurmountable. So far I have put enough money into the project to assemble a whole new HTI with optic and 100rds.
Now I need some opinions:
Everything behind the mag well and in front of the monopod is empty space. What to do with it? Go for the skeleton kind of J-hook design, make it accept a spare 5rd mag, flatten the bottom (delete the 45deg slope in favor of a 90deg club foot), add a cup holder, container for bubbles and a bubble blowing loop, or whatever whackadoodle idea you might have.
I’ve broken the back of the last of the known/foreseen problems with getting carbon fiber stocks made as direct replacements. The technical challenges are numerous, and for the individual wanting to make just one they are essentially insurmountable. So far I have put enough money into the project to assemble a whole new HTI with optic and 100rds.
Now I need some opinions:
Everything behind the mag well and in front of the monopod is empty space. What to do with it? Go for the skeleton kind of J-hook design, make it accept a spare 5rd mag, flatten the bottom (delete the 45deg slope in favor of a 90deg club foot), add a cup holder, container for bubbles and a bubble blowing loop, or whatever whackadoodle idea you might have.
Sons first time in the deer stand with me.
Epic distance shooting it was not, just a 4pt with enough meat to justify it on opening morning in northern tier NY.
But he had a blast; gutting out and anatomy lesson followed.
Butchering as well, and soon, kitchen time.
I have had him on a SAC 223 conversion ringing steel at our local range; farthest it goes is 250, but the 4” plate is a 90% hit rate for him.
Epic distance shooting it was not, just a 4pt with enough meat to justify it on opening morning in northern tier NY.
But he had a blast; gutting out and anatomy lesson followed.
Butchering as well, and soon, kitchen time.
I have had him on a SAC 223 conversion ringing steel at our local range; farthest it goes is 250, but the 4” plate is a 90% hit rate for him.
Had some old leftover 350 SMK loads today, 134 gr n570 and shot them through my 35” Lilja barrel.
Holy smokes! (They didn’t shoot that well but they were fast.)
Holy smokes! (They didn’t shoot that well but they were fast.)
First batch of cheek risers is progressing through finish operations.
I'm working on the 2nd version of replacement stocks for the poverty ponies among us, this is being done from fiberglass and using a much less refined manufacturing process (I'm using industrial methods and equipment for the carbon fiber). So far I've got the base chassis done. It holds the rifle nicely and I can make it cheaply and quickly. Today I'll be working on getting the AR-15 pistol grip boss added and then if there's time I'll form up a butt stock mating surface.
Pics soon.
I'm working on the 2nd version of replacement stocks for the poverty ponies among us, this is being done from fiberglass and using a much less refined manufacturing process (I'm using industrial methods and equipment for the carbon fiber). So far I've got the base chassis done. It holds the rifle nicely and I can make it cheaply and quickly. Today I'll be working on getting the AR-15 pistol grip boss added and then if there's time I'll form up a butt stock mating surface.
Pics soon.
Okie dokie, Dukie. Pic time... Keep in mind this is a developmental unit, not even a prototype, so it's not supposed to be pretty. My M2 is taking a real licking with all the fiberglass and carbon fiber bits that are flying around.
Passenger side
Driver side
And, passenger side with the mag inserted.
So far I've got 4 layers of fiberglass for the main body. Next up I need to make a mounting boss for the pistol grip and the rear cap. The rear cap is made of Delrin (because I had a piece of exactly the right size laying around) bonded to a spare butt stock extension. That will allow the factory butt pad and normal disassembly procedures to be used. I'm working on a multi-adjustable butt pad arrangement to allow some cast-on/cast-off, toe height and cant angle adjustment. Very probably I'll go with an existing unit for the adjustable butt plate setup but I could just make the thing.
The knife is a Kershaw Iridium Kai with D2 blade. Does great at cutting fiberglass matting without dulling too quickly but the tip breaks really easily.
Passenger side
Driver side
And, passenger side with the mag inserted.
So far I've got 4 layers of fiberglass for the main body. Next up I need to make a mounting boss for the pistol grip and the rear cap. The rear cap is made of Delrin (because I had a piece of exactly the right size laying around) bonded to a spare butt stock extension. That will allow the factory butt pad and normal disassembly procedures to be used. I'm working on a multi-adjustable butt pad arrangement to allow some cast-on/cast-off, toe height and cant angle adjustment. Very probably I'll go with an existing unit for the adjustable butt plate setup but I could just make the thing.
The knife is a Kershaw Iridium Kai with D2 blade. Does great at cutting fiberglass matting without dulling too quickly but the tip breaks really easily.
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I can't seem to find it anywhere, but does the SRSA1 models (I have a left handed one) have any cant built into the rail? Im assuming no.
Butt plate adapter is in. Have to do durability testing on it. Mag well is roughed out. I really need a set of mag bodies for AICS and AWM to start development on those.
This is really cool, I’m excited to see what you come up with. You really think you can make AICS mags work?
I would also buy but I’m in Canada, not sure is stock skins would be an ITAR item or not.
I can deal with ITAR. From what I can see I can make a conversion for AI 338 mags. AICS 308 mags are DS/SF from what I recall so I can’t think of anything that would prevent it from working but it would require adapters which adds to the tolerance stacking problem. As a practical matter it’s easy to make adapters, I can’t yet predict the functional reliability of them though. Anyone with AI mags and a little time can join me on a video call and we can try to get a more definitive answer.
Testing my first rough whack at creating a mag well. The big tail on the back end of it is the back side of the mag release inlet. This was the quickest and dirtiest attempt that I could do so, yes, it looks like crap. More than anything I just wanted to see if I could get a decent fit to the magazine itself and make the factory mag release hardware work. Worked like a charm. Now I can reset and try to make one that's less janky. I'm really pleased with the tolerance on the thing. I have about .008-.010" side to side and about .003-.005" end to end. The up/down right now has zero tolerance. I need to measure all of my mags and see what the nominal slop from mag to mag is from the top of the rear end of the feed lips.
Lots of grinding and cutting and more fiberglass to do. Best get after it. Note to self, this was surprisingly difficult but nothing like the challenge in the butt plate arrangement. What a PITAMF that has been.
Lots of grinding and cutting and more fiberglass to do. Best get after it. Note to self, this was surprisingly difficult but nothing like the challenge in the butt plate arrangement. What a PITAMF that has been.
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I ordered a couple of items a week or so back on Sunday night. Both items shipped that Tuesday and delivered across the country within 3-4 days. HTI soft case and a sling, both in FDE. Very pleased!
I'd like to have a custom riser like this on my HTI.Started work on something new. The factory cheek rest doesn't go high enough for me so I made one from carbon fiber. This is a quick and dirty R&D unit. I'm trying to create a replacement for the stock itself now. I have some improvements to the factory model I'm trying to implement like AR-15 grip compatibility, among other major updates. The carbon fiber cheek rest is tons more comfortable. It's also more rigid and lighter. I used 5 layers of carbon fiber and went through numerous resins before I found just the right one.
