At the same time I didn't buy these to lase birds. I don't think anyone is trying to shoot wallet groups with their Vectors. They bought them to lase targets and big game.
I'm going to stop responding to you because I think you're kind of a doofus
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I'm going to stop responding to you because I think you're kind of a doofus
I'm looking to buy to laze birds that's why I'm asking. I've been hunting birds for 10 years at distanses 300 +
I'm very sorry that you think this way about me.
I've never tried lazing birds on a wire. Most of the time what people are trying to laze is really amounts to either the ground or some large soft target like a bush or tree. Essentially, something big and soft in the vicinity of what they are looking to shoot. The bird on a wire thing is interesting though. I've never tried it and it certainly would offer some insight into pinpoint capabilities. I'll keep an eye out for opportunities to try this out and certainly post about it if I discover anything interesting.
I hunt mainly black grouse in the spring and fall. So it is critical for me to have a quality rangefinder that can measure small targets at long distances. It will be very interesting to hear your experience with birds on wires at distances of 500 +
In one photo the black grouse are sitting at a distance of 730 m. In the other photo we are taking measurements using Vectronix Terrapin X and PLRF 05. These 2 black grouse were shoot at a distance of 441 m.
That's why I'm asking you guys to take measurement small targets at long distanses.
That's why I'm asking you guys to take measurement small targets at long distanses.
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Did anyone figure out how to input negative zero offset values? I typically try to zero L of center by a smidgen at 100y. Haven't figured out how to put a left zero offset in.
264 win mag? Wow.
Perhaps you’ve addressed this, but I assume you’re shootings these birds while they are upon the ground? And not in the trees? Some of your pics are of birds in trees.
Why are you shooting at such a distance? For the challenge? I’m not being critical, just curious. It sounds like fun.
Where do your shoot? I’m guessing UK or somewhere in Europe.
I’ve twice tried hunting crows with a 17 Hornet and those buggers are smart. Didn’t even have one opportunity even though we had a blind, decoys, and an electronic caller. They just laughed at us while remaining ensconced in the trees.
Those of you that got a pair of these that already had a good setup, are you happy with your decision? Would you recommend replacing a SLC + TerrapinX + Kestrel 5700 Elite kit with a set of these? All-in-one sounds interesting, but I worry about giving up something by doing so.
I've got zeiss victory rf, kilo 10k gen1, and the vectorX. This is the best combo of laser/glass. The zeiss still has better glass, but it's only really noticeable at the edges. Laser sucks in the zeiss, and the ballistics engine is nil but workable once you true it to a kestrel.
no. 6.5 mm .264" is 6.5 Creedmor
reasons:
1. To pracrice for small targets at long distances
2. To cook them later.
Crows are not a problem at disnances 300+
US, Europe.
Cool, thanks for the info. I should really commit to trying to shoot longer distance birds as it looks like a good challenge. I’ve see quite a few vids on crow rifle shooting in the UK.
You didn’t mention if you shoot them on the ground or also in the trees, however. If the latter, I’d be quite worried about bullets flying long distances past the targets if I missed.
I don't worry about it since there is a large uninhabited area behind the target.
Hunting animals on the ground is one thing but shooting a bird on a wire compounds things greatly, if this is your private property then please disregard. If this is not private property how do you know there are not a few guys out shooting animals/birds just like you are doing?
Be Sure of Your Target and Aware of What Is Beyond:
Remember: a .22 bullet can travel more than 1¼ miles, and .270 ammunition can move as far as 3½ miles. So, before every shot, know exactly where the bullet will strike and feel confident that you won't injure anyone or anything beyond your target. Also, remember that in some cases, your target won't completely stop the bullet. In the case of a pass-through, the bullet may carry enough energy to travel well beyond your target. So, be absolutely sure there's nothing beyond your target, especially other animals or humans.
Well, I hope for you and your shooting partner’s sakes that nobody ventures into that area while you’re shooting and everybody gets unlucky.
There’s gps/cell in most cars now, plus of course cell tower ping tracking and cameras all over…
Anyway, I see you’re ranging handheld on top of a hood.
If you’re trying to range tiny targets, for better precision I suggest using the LRF on a good tripod with at least a ballhead. Better yet with a pan/tilt head, and better still if it is geared.
For pdog shooting, we use a regular pan/tilt setup as geared is too slow for our use.
The younger shooter’s rig: what chassis is that? Looks like an AI forend combined with a Sako or something, but I’m sure it’s not as the butt doesn’t look like a TRG.
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This guy is clearly not worth engaging with and further derailing this thread. He wants super specific tests ran on a new product. When a person with arguably currently the most experience with them responds he just wants to argue and nit pick. I don't care what he says... the way he goes about "hunting" birds with his .264 Creedmoor (which is 6.5mm if anyone didn't know) is not safe.
Like I said go fucking buy one yourself and figure out if it works.
Like I said go fucking buy one yourself and figure out if it works.
Shooting anything that is skylined without a clear backstop is kinda crazy... I don't care how MUCH uninhabited land is beyond the target. All it takes is some errant round to hit some kid riding his dirt bike, some lady walking their dog, or some curious bird watcher thinking they're safe and far away with BTX 115s...
Hell no.
Hell no.
not in that area. There's no cell coverage within 100 miles, no cameras, no villages, no kids etc.
we do that most of the time.
it takes more time than handeld ranging.
we use tripods for pdogs
it's CNC Guns custom chassis
We all understand the responsibility. Don't worry.
Forums like these exist to share experiences and impressions. If you don't want to, don't do it. No one will force you to do it. Just pass by.
There was a firmware update the last time I connected the binos to the app and it seems to have fixed the issue with selecting a profile and the hud not coming back on under certain conditions.
It still outputs in MRAD if the kestrel profile and vector x selected profile are both in MOA.
Seems to need to do the chicken dance more often when im out hunting vs shooting at the range.
So far very happy with these and I hope future updates fix the few remaining issues.
It still outputs in MRAD if the kestrel profile and vector x selected profile are both in MOA.
Seems to need to do the chicken dance more often when im out hunting vs shooting at the range.
So far very happy with these and I hope future updates fix the few remaining issues.
These things do not Iike the cold! Pretty much useless other than straight bino sub 5°. All you winter time coyote hunters, prob look for a different option.
I had mine out early Sunday morning. It was between 20 and 25°. No issues. However, a buddy had a pair of leicas out there and they would not work at those temperatures. We haven't had single digit temperatures where I'm at yet this year
FYI, regarding the rumor that Euro Optic sends the orders out that people pay full price for first... vs in the order they came in:
I have experienced this a couple times now. I’ve taken the batteries out (just the 123A’s), warmed them up in my hands or a pocket for a couple minutes, re-installed them and the binoculars work. Has never been really cold, probably teens & 20’s at worst. I will have to see if the 18650’s have the same problem.
I kept my binos in a chest rig inside my coat and they worked, my buddy had his atop tripod, they did NOT work at all. 5° with 10-15mph winds, so wind chills in negatives. I believe in the manual it says 7° or 9° as minimum temp. Unfortunately such an expensive peice of kit can't be reliable on a larger range on temps.
I believe there are 18650s that are designed with cold weather in mind after a quick google search. Might be worth looking into. Seems more like a battery issue than a device issue.
I'm guessing battery more than unit,
Unfortunately it's cold now, not cold in August. But I bet a different battery fixes this.
I saw Caylen posted he left his out overnight, but it was not that cold
Unfortunately it's cold now, not cold in August. But I bet a different battery fixes this.
I saw Caylen posted he left his out overnight, but it was not that cold
Just spent a week hunting high in Colorado. Ran a fenix 18650 the entire time, constantly ranging from 0f to mid-30’s. No issues in this case and excellent battery life. I will note that I contacted Vectronix CS asking their thoughts, they recommended the 18650’s for intense cold.
Ordered energizer cr123a that are advertised to -40f and the Nitecore cold weather 18650. Once I get everything and I get on days off, I'll conduct some testing with time in deep freeze, bino temp via laser gun, and where I start having issues. I'll throw my Kilo10k into mix as well just for comparison. I know my zeiss victory rf 10x42 had problems sub 15° when cold soaked 3 years ago, hence the 10k acquisition.
While you're waiting for the temps to get cold enough to lasergun your binos you can fill the time weight sorting primers.
I just want to know what temps they actually stop performing as desired. I'll have 3-4 months off for winter season, so have plenty of time on my hands.While you're waiting for the temps to get cold enough to lasergun your binos you can fill the time weight sorting primers.
The minimum operating temperature the've published is -20c/ -5f. I think that may just be the range of the temperature sensor.
When I take the vectors down to -5 in my freezer, they try to wake up but quickly die. Pop in a warm 123a battery and they work. If I put a battery alone in the freezer for 10 minutes, then pop it in room temp binos, they don't work.
Did the same tests with a basic 18650 and the vectors worked every time.
This appears to just be a battery problem with the 123a's. I'm guessing they fail somewhere between 15-F and 0-F. Don't really have a way of finding the breaking point of the 18650. Don't really want to be anywhere that cold anyway.
When I take the vectors down to -5 in my freezer, they try to wake up but quickly die. Pop in a warm 123a battery and they work. If I put a battery alone in the freezer for 10 minutes, then pop it in room temp binos, they don't work.
Did the same tests with a basic 18650 and the vectors worked every time.
This appears to just be a battery problem with the 123a's. I'm guessing they fail somewhere between 15-F and 0-F. Don't really have a way of finding the breaking point of the 18650. Don't really want to be anywhere that cold anyway.
I have a question for those who already have their Vector-X's, does the OLED panel in the display reach to where the aiming reticle is? In other words would there be an option for Vectronix to make a dot or something illuminate where the aiming reticle is? I have a set on order but watched a YouTube video by Paramount Tactical where a good point was made, namely that the etched reticle disappears in low light or against darker objects. One of my uses will be for hunting, and as I am sure many on here know, opportunities are ofter presented at first or last light. He demonstrated this aspect in his review, and sure enough the reticle all but vanished depending on how early/late it was or when looking into deeper shadowed areas. If the OLED panel overlaps the aiming reticle then it could be resolved with a firmware update, the "dot" could even be selectable on/off. Otherwise this sounds like a Vector-X Gen II update.
Please let us know what you find. Mine have been problematic in the cold too, and I've only had them in the mid 20s so far. I might try an 18650 battery to see if that helps, because I use mine a lot through the winter.
I was worried about this a little too, But I haven't had a problem with that yet and I mostly hunt with mine. I actually prefer it since the lit reticle on my last binos would wash out the whole background in low light. It would be cool if it was an option though.
