I figured a NIB dinosaur deserved a NIB dinosaur scope. Been sitting on the scope for 4 or 5 years. Setup will be a good deer whacker. I’ll try it out in a couple weeks.
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yodave makes one tikka trigger spring lol, my ctr is set at 14oz with the factory trigger.
More dinosaurs from the tar pits
You kids and your new fangled boolits and tier 1 cases better watch out.
You kids and your new fangled boolits and tier 1 cases better watch out.
Well, IF he had been paying attention to my post that he quoted, he would have known that I was talking about the POS 2 stage trigger in my TAC A1 with it's .25+inch sloppy first stage. I would replace it but the rifle is a LEFT HAND model, and no one makes an after market LH trigger that's in my budget .
Per an email with krg, the lh safety lever from at least a single stage (not sure on the 2 stage Tikka trigger) can be carefully swapped with the one on a midas. Haven't seen what the Tikka 2 stage looks like. @K2e2vin did it on his.
Am I the only one to have poor accuracy with Barnes Vor-TX ammo in my 24" 6.5 CM CTR Barrel ?
I cleaned the bore down to "no copper" on the patches with Bore Tech Eliminator, hosed the bore with brake cleaner and a clean patch prior to shooting to remove any cleaner residue. After 10 rounds to foul the barrel the next two 5 round groups were between 2 and 3 inches across. Not what I was expecting.
This barrel shoots 142 Sierra MK's into groups less than 1/2"with regularity and hammered with Hornady 140 Match Ammo
I let the barrel cool down, switched back to my 140 Nosler Ballistic Tip hunting load and was back to sub 3/4" groups.
I know what ammo I'm hunting with this season, but I wanted to have a factory alterative for my handloads that would take down whitetail deer efficiently.
What's everyone's experience with the Vor-TX ammo in their Tikka Barrels ?
I cleaned the bore down to "no copper" on the patches with Bore Tech Eliminator, hosed the bore with brake cleaner and a clean patch prior to shooting to remove any cleaner residue. After 10 rounds to foul the barrel the next two 5 round groups were between 2 and 3 inches across. Not what I was expecting.
This barrel shoots 142 Sierra MK's into groups less than 1/2"with regularity and hammered with Hornady 140 Match Ammo
I let the barrel cool down, switched back to my 140 Nosler Ballistic Tip hunting load and was back to sub 3/4" groups.
I know what ammo I'm hunting with this season, but I wanted to have a factory alterative for my handloads that would take down whitetail deer efficiently.
What's everyone's experience with the Vor-TX ammo in their Tikka Barrels ?
Ran a few through the CTR 260. Got sighted in close enough for today. Gusting winds of 15-20 and shooting off the hood of my truck with a coat bundled up under the forend of the rifle. Got fed up with the rocking shit pretty quick so got out my benchrest.
Shot my last 3 140 Amax at this diamond after verifying my 223 after the suppressor swap so that would be the small hole on the left and the one next to it is the first 140 I shot and the upper is the second one before I got pissed and got my benchrest out for more stability. Needed the gloves to hold the paper still for a pic. Last 3 shots are the cluster.
Last 3 shots of the day were the 123 SST. They are slow as molasses but did good enough . I’ll increase charge weight and see if I can get a little more velocity.
At least I have 35pcs of formed brass now and a baseline for velocity. Rifle did take a digger and the scope got a little mud on it from the wind tipping it over but didn’t skip a beat as usual. That CTR mag feeds slick. Wish I could get more but they are sold out at the moment.
Velocities
100gr NBT 43.0 IMR4064=2930fps
120 Amax 45.0 H4350. 2790fps
123 SST 45.0 H4350. 2750
140 Amax 43.0 H4350. 2610
140 Amax 43.5 H4350. 2670
All of these velocities are low compared to a couple 20” Remington 260s I have. We all know Tikka are slow so wasn’t surprised to see the velocities come across.
Shot my last 3 140 Amax at this diamond after verifying my 223 after the suppressor swap so that would be the small hole on the left and the one next to it is the first 140 I shot and the upper is the second one before I got pissed and got my benchrest out for more stability. Needed the gloves to hold the paper still for a pic. Last 3 shots are the cluster.
Last 3 shots of the day were the 123 SST. They are slow as molasses but did good enough . I’ll increase charge weight and see if I can get a little more velocity.
At least I have 35pcs of formed brass now and a baseline for velocity. Rifle did take a digger and the scope got a little mud on it from the wind tipping it over but didn’t skip a beat as usual. That CTR mag feeds slick. Wish I could get more but they are sold out at the moment.
Velocities
100gr NBT 43.0 IMR4064=2930fps
120 Amax 45.0 H4350. 2790fps
123 SST 45.0 H4350. 2750
140 Amax 43.0 H4350. 2610
140 Amax 43.5 H4350. 2670
All of these velocities are low compared to a couple 20” Remington 260s I have. We all know Tikka are slow so wasn’t surprised to see the velocities come across.
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Anyone ran CA's AICS mags in a T3x? Just swapped over to a chassis so am trying to find out if they're finicky like some others.
Longer COAL or SAAMI?
Longer COAL or SAAMI?
As do I, for the same reasons.
I bought that stock, and don't regret it. Thanks again!
Attachments
I think it's a great stock, I probably just got a bad one that was made on a Friday at 4:30
. You can check out my repair from earlier posts. Was pleasantly surprised to see some prepreg along the body. No idea they laid in carbon fiber. I think you'll love it.
UPR stock is really nice, I shoot better with it than my other rifle with an MDT XRS, the ergonomics just fit me really well.
I'll probably get another Tikka, super lite in stainless, and put that in the UPR stock, and get a Spuhr SICS for my current one.
I'll probably get another Tikka, super lite in stainless, and put that in the UPR stock, and get a Spuhr SICS for my current one.
Roger that.
Unlikely, though. It fits me perfectly with the spacers I found, and I like everything about it better than the CTR stock.
It fit my budget then better than a McMillan or Manners or such. Could afford one now. Haven't bothered for that rifle.
223AI in a PSE E-Tac. Really love this stock I highly recommend it especially for UK and Europe guy's. The 20" Krieger barrel is a hammer and shoots half minute or better with many loads. Tested some 80gr eldms last weekend and initial results were very promising.
If anyone is interested, McMillan is saying if they get 50 guys to put down a 100$ deposit they will do a mountain tracker LR in a Tikka inlet.
I was looking through their stocks a month ago and thought it was weird there was no Tikka inlet for that one.
Got part of the MDT order and went looking for baldies in the fog today. Luckily I could just make out the target at 100 yards to verify zero. Certainly wasn’t a crystal clear view though. Good enough zero for deer whacking.
Here it is on the cabin porch. Is there any other color but this one?
Lighting makes the green look lighter than it is.
Here it is on the cabin porch. Is there any other color but this one?
Lighting makes the green look lighter than it is.
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Other than being lighter how does that Echo feel compared to a Bravo? Can you put an arca rail on it?
UPR 20” 6.5 CM owner here. I had a KRG and sold it. The UPR is exactly what I want in a hunting stock. It doesn’t have the bells and whistles of the Bravo. Great palm swell, adjustable cheek piece and fore end that feels more like a traditional hunting rifle stock. The fore end is relatively skinny but flat so it rest well.
Range day today with my 20” CTR 308. Actually used to have this in a Bravo but sold it. The factory CTR stock is fine for a hunting stock and lighter. Handloads and it’s a hammer. My suppressor is on my 6.5 UPR, but I find myself grabbing this one more often when going hunting. 20” CTR is very sporty and compact for box blinds.
Brand new to the Hide and am interested in a Tikka T3x Tact A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. I'm a lefty but have always used right-handed rifles, and can't wrap my head around using a lefty.
Simple question... Does anyone know if I can flip the cheek piece to the other side or will I have to order a LH one?
Simple question... Does anyone know if I can flip the cheek piece to the other side or will I have to order a LH one?
Welcome!
Its not the cheek piece that matters as much. It's the bolt handle.
You are looking for a JRTAC482L (black) or JRTAT482L(coyote ish). Comes set up for left hand use already. Heavier threaded barrel (same as ctr), 2 stage trigger, 0 moa rail, threaded, 10 Rd mag, and iirc 3 position safety.
Proper picture.
For a primer on tikkas check this post.
Tikka buying guide T3 thread #3268
Page 66. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
You can order from lockedloaded.com and have shipped to local ffl and save a few hundred off of most everybody else. Less than $2k shipped.
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Thanks, Jason. I understand regarding the bolt handle and that's my issue. I have been shooting enough that even though I'm left handed I can't wrap my head around cycling the bolt with my left hand. I have had to adjust to right handed for too long.
With that said, I am looking for a right handed (bolt handle on the right) rifle with the cheek piece setup for shooting lefty. I know that's probably not the right way to look at it but living in a right-handed world so long it's hard to use truly left handed things.
I appreciate you getting back to me and the information that you provided!
I hope I clarified the odd setup I'm looking for. Every single gun (rifle/pistol/shotgun) I own is right handed and I have simply adapted for so long that it's now the only way I know how to shoot. Again, thanks for the information!
Does anyone have relatively accurate actual weights on:
- 6.5C CTR barreled action (20” or 24”) w/scope rail & trigger
- CTR stock w/ bottom metal
- CTR magazine
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I'm curious what that rifle actually weighs with a bipod? Seems like it'd be a dandy little rifle for something like either the Factory or Open Light class in NRL Hunter?
Click this post. Links to other opinions (from some highly respected posters) on lefties shooting right hand guns especially if you ever want to reload. Are you left eye or right eye dominant?
Try shooting with a left bolt. It feels so much better.
Do yourself a HUGE favor and slap it in an ACC premier gen 1 chassis or XRS if you want to save some money and weight (still has a 100% chassis bedding). The CTR is of the best factory options in existence but has a terrible plastic POS stock. Get every ounce of accuracy out of it with that upgrade.
No. Buy a Tikka CTR for 1100, then buy an mdt xrs chassis for 450 (Hinterland) choose a decent scope and rings and call it a day. You will have a brand new .5MOA rifle with ELDM and ELDX out of the box and an excellent stock.
Thanks for the info on a nearly 8 year old post lol
Was a great shooter but slow and sold it probably 5 years ago for a full custom build.
