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Tikka T3 Thread

I did a long write up on this a while back. The best thing to do besides wheeler action wrench, rosin, and barrel vice is soak the barrel/action joint in wd40 or CLP over night. You would be amazed how far that stuff gets into the threads and makes life a lot easier on the Tikka. My last barrel change was a breeze.
I'll give this a try , since my "smith" passed away last month .
 
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Not stainless, but 20” CTR nonetheless. 100 yds, 5 shots. 308 FGMM 175 SMK’s

IMG_2819.jpeg
 
I'll give this a try , since my "smith" passed away last month .
I soaked mine for two weeks in a PVC pipe with penetrating oil and it didn't rly do anything special According to my friends who popped two off a month earlier. Maybe it was the wrong oil though it was whatever home depot had in stock. Eventually we got it off with a giant pipe wrench but it marred up the OEM barrel pretty bad
 
I soaked mine for two weeks in a PVC pipe with penetrating oil and it didn't rly do anything special According to my friends who popped two off a month earlier. Maybe it was the wrong oil though it was whatever home depot had in stock. Eventually we got it off with a giant pipe wrench but it marred up the OEM barrel pretty bad
Did you use a hammer on the wrench to shock it or just torque?
 
I did a long write up on this a while back. The best thing to do besides wheeler action wrench, rosin, and barrel vice is soak the barrel/action joint in wd40 or CLP over night. You would be amazed how far that stuff gets into the threads and makes life a lot easier on the Tikka. My last barrel change was a breeze.
I used Kroil for a week and mine came off with an inside wrench and a Viper vise. You could see how far it got down into the threads. I put the barreled action in a bench vise with the barrel pointed down and shot some kroil in it every morning for a week.
 
I used Kroil for a week and mine came off with an inside wrench and a Viper vise. You could see how far it got down into the threads. I put the barreled action in a bench vise with the barrel pointed down and shot some kroil in it every morning for a week.
Kroil is great for penetration, I think any thin oil meant to get into the cracks would work. I did have to wrap on the wheeler wrench a little with a mallet but it was really a breeze compared to my first attempts prior to soaking in WD40.
 
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Glad to hear it’s not impossible at home
I removed my howa barrel (which according to everybody and their grandma) which are impossible to remove. Everybody bitches you should take it to a smith, it's tough to remove, you need to make a relief cut, etc. I sprayed wd40 by the action into the barrel threads and in a couple other little holes that lead to the barrel threads as well. I did this 2 days prior to removal of barrel and came off real easy.

I'm sure if you're competent enough and can put some thought into it, any barrel is easy to take off.
 
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I'm glad it worked out for you , But , with the case OAL {2.9+ for a 308} allowed in Tikka magazines , has anyone re-barreled to a shorter case like any based on the 6 BR case ?
I have two 22 BR barrels. They feed great with the MDT Dasher/BR magazines. I also converted two of the MDT with the binder plate with kits for BR based rounds.
 
Can any Whiskey 3 owners speak to the downsides of the chassis? I am seriously considering for a Tikka build but not sold yet. Fore end seems a little short and possibly narrow, also the I'm not sure how I feel about the bipod spigot.
I do really like the rear end of the chassis, grip and general look of it.
 
Can any Whiskey 3 owners speak to the downsides of the chassis? I am seriously considering for a Tikka build but not sold yet. Fore end seems a little short and possibly narrow, also the I'm not sure how I feel about the bipod spigot.
I do really like the rear end of the chassis, grip and general look of it.
I don’t have experiences with other chassis systems and I’m not a competitor, but here’s my take.

The downside is KRG uses a lot of fasteners!

However, they mostly only take a 4mm or 3mm hex key. Of course there’s a different size for the action screws and some small accessory cheekpiece screws, but I’d say 95% of the screws take a 4 or 3mm.

That’s all I got for negatives.
 
Can any Whiskey 3 owners speak to the downsides of the chassis? I am seriously considering for a Tikka build but not sold yet. Fore end seems a little short and possibly narrow, also the I'm not sure how I feel about the bipod spigot.
I do really like the rear end of the chassis, grip and general look of it.
The forend is short, but the spigot works great. Or upgrade to a longer forend like the KRG enclosed forend or a Vision. The only other negative is that the accessories add up fast and get kind of expensive depending on what you want out of it.

That said, it's my favorite chassis (though I haven't tried a C4 yet). Ergonomically it fits me like a glove.
 
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The forend is short, but the spigot works great. Or upgrade to a longer forend like the KRG enclosed forend or a Vision. The only other negative is that the accessories add up fast and get kind of expensive depending on what you want out of it.

That said, it's my favorite chassis (though I haven't tried a C4 yet). Ergonomically it fits me like a glove.
The forend with the spigot and the enclosed forend. Are the same length
 
Friend is looking for a t3x ctr stainless 24" barrel 308. Can't find a 24" anywhere. Anyone know if they even import this? If 20" is the only option, who's the best retailer to buy from?
Doesn't look like they are importing right now. On the choose.tikka.fi site unless it shows as model shows as jrt*** it's not imported unless it's the Drover. Eurooptic doesn't show it either. The 20" version is the Jrtxc316s. Lockedloaded.com has really good prices. Email them for the price. That price + $25 shipping is your out the door cost. Got my Walther pdp and my T1X through them. Ships to your ffl. Mine is a coworker who has his ffl.
 
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Can any Whiskey 3 owners speak to the downsides of the chassis? I am seriously considering for a Tikka build but not sold yet. Fore end seems a little short and possibly narrow, also the I'm not sure how I feel about the bipod spigot.
I do really like the rear end of the chassis, grip and general look of it.
I had an early X-Ray and I added a longer ARCA rail, a spigot, and some 1/4" spacers for weight in place of length of pull spacer. Wish I had not gotten rid of it as it was very well balanced with a heavy 26" barrel.
 
Look on eBay for 24” CTR barrels. They show up every once in a while.

Tikka barrels are easy to swap.

Doesn't look like they are importing right now. On the choose.tikka.fi site unless it shows as model shows as jrt*** it's not imported unless it's the Drover. Eurooptic doesn't show it either. The 20" version is the Jrtxc316s. Lockedloaded.com has really good prices. Email them for the price. That price + $25 shipping is your out the door cost. Got my Walther pdp and my T1X through them. Ships to your ffl. Mine is a coworker who has his ffl.