TRG appreciation thread - Part III

Grab a few different reloading manuals and get ready to blow your mind. Then look at the jug of varget that lists their own max load, just like the rest of the line of powders, which are usually much higher then the books.

But you do you, I guess . . .

Edit to add data. An example of Vhit. Load data with lapua brass.

View attachment 8602460
Load data with Lapua brass:
Screenshot_20250127-210431_Samsung Internet.jpg


Taken from vihtavuori.com a minute ago.
168 gr SMK.

I really don't care. Just exercise caution.
For you.
 
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That's just it.

Find a load and work it up in your rifle. Lots of examples of different 168-175gr bullets that are right in his load zone.

Realize that there are some variables in play before sounding off like you did. You just make yourself look like a judgmental c word.
 
Okay, so EuroOptic is selling the 22A1 in .260 Remington right now for $4,400. Since I paid $4,500 for my AT-X (and then another $600 or so for the folder, bridge, and bag rider), I figured why not give it a try?

Took possession of mine yesterday, and have a question for the dudes who have been on or around an A1 for a little while: How do you tighten up the free movement on the cheekpiece? I can get some of the play out of the LOP by tightening the torx screws (and thereby negating the quick-adjust feature), but the cheekpiece and LOP have that kind of 'Colt 1911' rattle to them. I can't see that being conducive to pulling every last drop of consistency out of the platform.

*This is not within the folding mechanism. I actually prefer the TRG's to the AI (that I had to buy separately).

** I also haven't put my trigger on the scale yet, but it is substantially lighter feeling than what I was expecting after reading the reviews. No need to adjust anything to fit my hand perfectly, and so far I'm a fan of that on the TRG too.
 
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Okay, so EuroOptic is selling the 22A1 in .260 Remington right now for $4,400. Since I paid $4,500 for my AT-X (and then another $600 or so for the folder, bridge, and bag rider), I figured why not give it a try?

Took possession of mine yesterday, and have a question for the dudes who have been on or around an A1 for a little while: How do you tighten up the free movement on the cheekpiece? I can get some of the play out of the LOP by tightening the torx screws (and thereby negating the quick-adjust feature), but the cheekpiece and LOP have that kind of 'Colt 1911' rattle to them. I can't see that being conducive to pulling every last drop of consistency out of the platform.

*This is not within the folding mechanism. I actually prefer the TRG's to the AI (that I had to buy separately).

** I also haven't put my trigger on the scale yet, but it is substantially lighter feeling than what I was expecting after reading the reviews. No need to adjust anything to fit my hand perfectly, and so far I'm a fan of that on the TRG too.
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Thanks,

I already went through the manual as soon as I got home yesterday. My LOP came with the screw all the way tightened, and it wasn't extending for me. So I took the 30 minutes to make myself familiar and sort things out. This rattle in both is more or less created from the rods having play within the raceways.

I may be a dude, but I'm also the dude who reads the instructions before setting himself up for failure in the forums :D .
 
Thanks,

I already went through the manual as soon as I got home yesterday. My LOP came with the screw all the way tightened, and it wasn't extending for me. So I took the 30 minutes to make myself familiar and sort things out. This rattle in both is more or less created from the rods having play within the raceways.

I may be a dude, but I'm also the dude who reads the instructions before setting himself up for failure in the forums :D .
Haha got ya. I have the rattle in mine but I never messed with the screw to see if it would lock it down. I don't believe there is enough play in it to cause you to be any less accurate though. Not sure if you've shot it yet or not but see how itgoes.
 
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Haha got ya. I have the rattle in mine but I never messed with the screw to see if it would lock it down. I don't believe there is enough play in it to cause you to be any less accurate though. Not sure if you've shot it yet or not but see how itgoes.

Actually, your answer here is exactly what I was wanting to know (y). If you have a touch of rattle, then I guess this is to be expected. I otherwise like everything about the rifle so far.

It'll be a hot minute before I get mine out to shoot. I blew my 2025 fun-wad on 1911 stuff before I impulse bought this thing. I also got rid of all of my .260 Rem reloading equipment about 8 years ago. So the journey begins again...
 
Figured this would be a good place to ask this question, I have a TRG-S action that I rebarreled with a Bartlein, but now I'm thinking of going in a different direction and just getting a TRG-42. Would my barrel fit on the TRG-42 action, since it was on a 7mm Remington magnum TRG-S action?
 
Does anybody know of a TRG-42 chassis for sale? Hopefully an original Sako or KRG. I have a TRG-S I'd like to swap the chassis on to. I've been searching for a few months now and haven't had any luck on my own. Hoping y'all may know of one.
 
Does anybody know of a TRG-42 chassis for sale? Hopefully an original Sako or KRG. I have a TRG-S I'd like to swap the chassis on to. I've been searching for a few months now and haven't had any luck on my own. Hoping y'all may know of one.
Did you try KRG and/or Vision or are you asking about OEM parts?
 
Did you try KRG and/or Vision or are you asking about OEM parts?
Interested in KRG and OEM mostly.

I've reached out to KRG, my understanding is that they don't have plans on a TRG-42/M995 option for the Gen 7. I could be wrong there.
As far as Vision goes, I haven't. I don't think I can get the backbone from them to have the mix & match option a KRG or factory Sako would have.
 
I reached out to KRG and they've discontinued the whiskey 3 for the M995/TRG-42. I was bummed by that because I was originally just hoping to get a chassis from them.

My next question, if I get a 338LM TRG-42 could I use my 7mm rem magnum M995 bolt in the action and switch back and forth, assuming I get the tools to do barrel swaps and have both types of magazines?
 
I reached out to KRG and they've discontinued the whiskey 3 for the M995/TRG-42. I was bummed by that because I was originally just hoping to get a chassis from them.

My next question, if I get a 338LM TRG-42 could I use my 7mm rem magnum M995 bolt in the action and switch back and forth, assuming I get the tools to do barrel swaps and have both types of magazines?
Keep looking for a 42/W3. They are out there.

Yes. But if you need to adjust head space when transferring bolt an barrel from M995 to 42, the head space will be off on the M995 action if you want to change back.
Would be better to get a new barrel in 7mmRM headspaced to the M995 bolt.
(Even better to get a 42 in 300 Win Mag)
 
Got my new 22 A1 out today for an initial break-in and zeroing. I'm just using my old XTR III as a placeholder for the moment until I figure out what I want to invest in for an optic.

I know that I saw a video on YouTube where one of the Sako guys said that the TRG's barrels are lapped and need no breaking in. However, I was getting a pretty good amount of copper each time I ran some Boretech Eliminator through it, so I did a light break-in (cleaned every couple of rounds for the first dozen, and then once or twice more).

I had one box of Hornady Match with the 130 ELD-M, and one box of Sako with the 136 Scenar-L. I figured the rifle would shoot the Sako ammunition better, but that wasn't the case for me. It put out a couple .8" groups for 5 and 6 rounds respectively. I used most of the Hornady stuff for the quick break-in, but did have a couple 3 and 4 shot groups that were half that size.

Guess I'll order some more 130gr ELD-M and start my load development. One of my 6.5x47s loves that bullet too.

This TRG has the absolute smoothest-feeding action out of all of my rifles. Multiple times I had to do a brass check because I thought I hadn't picked up a round.
 
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Got my new 22 A1 out today for an initial break-in and zeroing. I'm just using my old XTR III as a placeholder for the moment until I figure out what I want to invest in for an optic.

I know that I saw a video on YouTube where one of the Sako guys said that the TRG's barrels are lapped and need no breaking in. However, I was getting a pretty good amount of copper each time I ran some Boretech Eliminator through it, so I did a light break-in (cleaned every couple of rounds for the first dozen, and then once or twice more).

I had one box of Hornady Match with the 130 ELD-M, and one box of Sako with the 136 Scenar-L. I figured the rifle would shoot the Sako ammunition better, but that wasn't the case for me. It put out a couple .8" groups for 5 and 6 rounds respectively. I used most of the Hornady stuff for the quick break-in, but did have a couple 3 and 4 shot groups that were half that size.

Guess I'll order some more 130gr ELD-M and start my load development. One of my 6.5x47s loves that bullet too.

This TRG has the absolute smoothest-feeding action out of all of my rifles. Multiple times I had to do a brass check because I thought I hadn't picked up a round.
1738887656095.gif
 
Got my new 22 A1 out today for an initial break-in and zeroing. I'm just using my old XTR III as a placeholder for the moment until I figure out what I want to invest in for an optic.

I know that I saw a video on YouTube where one of the Sako guys said that the TRG's barrels are lapped and need no breaking in. However, I was getting a pretty good amount of copper each time I ran some Boretech Eliminator through it, so I did a light break-in (cleaned every couple of rounds for the first dozen, and then once or twice more).

I had one box of Hornady Match with the 130 ELD-M, and one box of Sako with the 136 Scenar-L. I figured the rifle would shoot the Sako ammunition better, but that wasn't the case for me. It put out a couple .8" groups for 5 and 6 rounds respectively. I used most of the Hornady stuff for the quick break-in, but did have a couple 3 and 4 shot groups that were half that size.

Guess I'll order some more 130gr ELD-M and start my load development. One of my 6.5x47s loves that bullet too.

This TRG has the absolute smoothest-feeding action out of all of my rifles. Multiple times I had to do a brass check because I thought I hadn't picked up a round.
I refuse to read a post that long without pictures🤣😋😉
 
I heard that on the TRG A1 series the barrel is hydraulically pressed so the rifle needs to go to Finland for barrel replacement? Is this true? We can’t send to a gunsmith to put a new barrel on it?
 
I heard that on the TRG A1 series the barrel is hydraulically pressed so the rifle needs to go to Finland for barrel replacement? Is this true? We can’t send to a gunsmith to put a new barrel on it?
Looking at the part numbers for old actions vs a1 is the same. Haven't tried to tear mine off yet but the general thought is it's the same as old ones and threaded
 
I heard that on the TRG A1 series the barrel is hydraulically pressed so the rifle needs to go to Finland for barrel replacement? Is this true? We can’t send to a gunsmith to put a new barrel on it?
Looking at the part numbers for old actions vs a1 is the same. Haven't tried to tear mine off yet but the general thought is it's the same as old ones and threaded
This seems to pop up every now and then. As discussed a year ago in this thread and said by Func above, the TRG and TRG A1 barrels have a M27x1,5 threaded tenon and are NOT press fit.
 
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I heard that on the TRG A1 series the barrel is hydraulically pressed so the rifle needs to go to Finland for barrel replacement? Is this true? We can’t send to a gunsmith to put a new barrel on it?
I think whoever says that is confusing the TRG with the old Steyr SSG69, which does have a hydraulically pressed barrel and generally would need to be sent home (Austria) for rebarreling.
 
I think whoever says that is confusing the TRG with the old Steyr SSG69, which does have a hydraulically pressed barrel and generally would need to be sent home (Austria) for rebarreling.
I think X-Ring on YouTube is the cause. He says they are hydraulicly pressed and needs to go back to Sako to be replaced. He's at least who i heard it from first. Supposedly he got that info from sako when he was loaned the rifle which made me question it.
 
You need to send them in because it seems the barrels are harder to get off than usual ones.
Plus they ensure the rifle is as accurate as before by testing the rifle.

Thats what they told me in germany. Was no big deal and i would always want a sako barrel again. They last longer and are as accurate or even better than custom barrels. Why anyone would want a proof, bartlein etc instead of a sako barrel in a TRG is beyond my imagination.

Took a few weeks and the rifle was back in action. Not sure how long this would take from the US though...

My solution...own at least 2 TRGs so you can shoot the other one while one is rebarreled😄

Cheers