Today I finished a lower I had halfway built from a little over a year ago. While building it I decided I wanted to do a simple/ cheapish 14.5 P&W build. Believe I'm gonna go with a ballistic advantage barrel and pinned fsb. I'm gonna try for a PA cyclops so I can try a prism over a red dot sight. Apparently I have astigmatism and red dots aren't supposed to be fuzzy looking. What do most of you run height wise for your red dots? Is absolute cowitness better than lower 1/3, or is it a preference thing? This will be my first build without a scope on it. And also my first build that doesn't have a set purpose. So I may have a cool idea pop into my head and run with it or I may keep the build simple and cheap like my first thought. Any recommendations, ideas, or advice from the hide is appreciated!
14.5 build
- Thread starter Bigscoop
- Start date
I do not. That being said, if you are running a fsb my favorite red dot setup I’ve run is a lower 1/3 with a fixed fsb and a folding rear sight. The fixed front gave a nice reference point and with the rear sight down it felt really quick.
An F marked FSB is for flat top rifles that would normally have a detachable carry handle and a non F marked FSB is for an A2 carry handle style upper that is one piece. The F marked FSB is slighty taller if I remember correctly. Rear back up sights are designed to be used with a F marked FSB. Bushmaster was notorious for using flat top uppers with non F marked FSBs which required a taller special front sight post so the rifle could be sighted in. My brother had one of these circa 1999.
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Yes, if you buy a barrel with a FSB it should be F marked if you are using a flat top upper. The majority of barrels nowadays with a FSB will be F marked and have M4 feed ramps in the barrel extension.
There are quite a few. B5 makes them as well as BCM. Or you can pick up a set of M4 style handgaurds cheap.
Man that kinda sucks. You would think they would back it with aluminum or something like that
I have a pile of pic C4’s - love them. But if you want MLOK and FSB, can’t go wrong with this:
I know it’s not plastic, but you can’t go wrong here. I have two Noveske FSB builds I plan to use these on.
I personally like the pic C4’s best, but MLOK is the new hotness...
C4 M-LOK Rail (Mid Cut) | by Centurion Arms
The C4 MLOK rail system is based off the patented quad rail version. It is a lightweight, rugged, 2-piece free float mid length rail with room for a front sight post.
www.centurionarms.com
I know it’s not plastic, but you can’t go wrong here. I have two Noveske FSB builds I plan to use these on.
I personally like the pic C4’s best, but MLOK is the new hotness...
Another note: not all "F-marked" FSB's are actually marked (with an "F" or otherwise) these days.
f marked fsd guarantees that the front sight is the proper height for any A1, A2 or foldable government profile rear sight.
check out Andro Corp Ind, they use BA barrels and have good QC. I picked up a complete 10.3 upper for under 300.00 during one of their sales. It runs great.
They run sales often.
check out Andro Corp Ind, they use BA barrels and have good QC. I picked up a complete 10.3 upper for under 300.00 during one of their sales. It runs great.
They run sales often.
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I tried a Larue 9.0, every flavor of Magpul, and the plain Jane handguards.
At the end of the day, the plain Jane’s won. The ribbing provides a lot more grip than I thought it would. The overall length puts my pressure switch in a very comfortable position. And even though I don’t have slots or rails, I mounted my pressure switch with double sided tape and zip ties and I’m not worried about it going anywhere.
Light is a Streamlight Protac Rail Mount.
It's zip tied to the handguard. The pressure switch has two channels molded in it for zip ties.
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