Hey guys, new hear…..I’m about as indecisive as it gets and don’t want to run into another nitro 505 situation……..if u want my 505 let me know lol……I am looking for a honest to goodness hunting rifle in 308 that is .5 moa or better with box ammo……I got a buget Of 1600$……buddy has a Sako s20 and I love how it feels……but I’m reading issues with hit or miss accuracy……now I’m thinking tikka super varmenter in 308 with a viper break…….what are my options?
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
1600$ 1/2 moa 308? With box ammo
- Thread starter Backstrap assassin
- Start date
You need to be a paying member to sell here and post it in the right section.
A factory .308 with factory ammo at .5 moa is going to be tough. Tikka CTR, UPR or Super Varmint shooting FGMM might get you as close as possible.
A factory .308 with factory ammo at .5 moa is going to be tough. Tikka CTR, UPR or Super Varmint shooting FGMM might get you as close as possible.
I was more or less busting balls…I can’t sell that 505…my wife will kill me lol… fgmm is just target correct or can it be used for deer sized game?
I've shot deer with it, the HPBT isn't a game bullet but shot placement will put them in the dirt with just about anything.
FGMM is/was the standard for accurate factory .308 ammo. I moved on to 6.5cm years ago so there may be a better choice now.
FGMM is/was the standard for accurate factory .308 ammo. I moved on to 6.5cm years ago so there may be a better choice now.
Tikka will serve you well. I have a CTR and T3X Alpine Veil. The Veil is a more traditional hunting rifle while the CTR is heavier profile. But since you are considering the super varmint I’m guessing weight isn’t as much of a concern?
I work out a lot lol
theirs only one light gun in my collection that I like hunting deer with…..good ol inland m1 carbine….believe it or not every deer I’ve shot at (inside 100) bang drop…..drt baby.I’ve shot a lot of whitetail deer. We shoot crop damage on dnr issued permits. Shot many deer with 6.5/260 and 308. I’ve shot them with 142 smk/143 ELDX in 6.5 and 150 sst/165 sst/168 SMk/175 SMK/178 ELDX from 308 bolt and semi platforms
Results were much more consistent with ELDX or SST vs SMK. The SMK would either pinhole in and pinhole out. Or detonate inside the deer and destroy a ton of meat and not exit or have a major exit hole. The pinhole effect made tracking difficult. Even 300 SMK out of my 338 Lapua would sometimes be nearly impossible to track.
The ELDX in the 308 have been more consistent than the 143 ELDX in the 6.5. For deer inside 500 yards the combo 308/178 ELDX is my choice. That’s what I run in my Tikka CTR and AI for deer. Have ran those in my AIAT for several years now
My ctr is relatively new. Dropped several deer with it this year. Shot very well with 178 ELDX during load development
My CTR is in a KRG Bravo. I’ve held the Tac A1. I don’t remember exactly what it was but I just didn’t like the feel as much as my MDT chassis’s I’ve used. So my choice would be a CTR dropped in a chassis of your choice. But that’s entirely personal preference
Keep in mind we’re talking factory ammo in a factory gun. So 1/2 moa isn’t necessarily guaranteed but some manufacturers (Tikka may be one) will guarantee a certain accuracy standard from their rifle. I’d test some hornady precision hunter ammo in whatever platform you decide on. That’s what I’d use for deer in factory ammo if it shoots well
Last edited:
Obviously shot placement has a lot to do with results. But apples to apples a SMK like the fgmm uses wasn’t as consistent as bullets designed for hunting like sst and ELDX when shot placements were the same. They do state not to use for hunting for smk ammo
This is a heart shot from a 260 at 1121 yards. Muzzle velocity at 2835 fps with 142 SMK. The deer was laying down looking at me when I got up to it about 30 minutes later. Ran about 30 yards
This is a heart shot from a 260 at 1121 yards. Muzzle velocity at 2835 fps with 142 SMK. The deer was laying down looking at me when I got up to it about 30 minutes later. Ran about 30 yards
Some times we forget just how much tougher wild game is than WE are….. idk about you but if I take a heart shot with anything I’m crumbling to the ground immediately…it’s insane how tough deer are…I’ve read that all hoofed animals have an otherworldly clotting capability. Back on track though……… that’s one damn impressive shot my guy…..I tip my hat in the up most respect…….if there was ever a shot on game that required a soft but firm scratch below the left knee…….that would be it 
How do u feel about 180gr fusions in 308? My buddy swears by them, and after seeing a few bad shots but still resulted as a bang drop, I’m kinda stuck on them and 178gr precision hunters u mentioned.
Fusions work well. Couple guys about 15 years ago or so used them in 270 and I think a 300 wsm. When we first started doing crop damage. Core lok remingtons were also impressive. They are designed as hunting bullets and do the job well
Their downfall compared to modern designs like ELDX and others is they don’t handle distance well. They have relatively low BC and especially in factory ammo just won’t produce the best accuracy at longer distances. You’d be lucky to find a gun that holds 1/2 moa at 100 with them.
Most of our shooting is 100-500 yards. Most 300-500 yards due to the size of the fields. Several spots go over 600. I’ve got 34 kills over 600 (2 over 1000) but those aren’t typical shot distances. My other 1,000 yard shot was 338 LM 300 SMK. The deer ran 75 yards and the blood trail was garbage.
178 ELDX and 200 ELDX have impressed me. I’ll be trying 212 ELDX in my 300 PRC this year
Currently we have one 260 in the mix shooting 143 ELDX. The other guys and myself have migrated away from 6.5 and run 308’s or 300’s currently. When 6.5 CM came out we ran (2) 260’s and (2) 6.5 CM.
While not some folks cup o tea.. I got a family member and a few Friends that went this rout not all 308win but one of em is and it easily outshoots a factory Bergara B14 308win w/ 175GMM & tuned handloads w/ 185jugernaut
$ 545 Savage M10AICS action/bottom metal combo ( no barrel nut or lug ) W/ accutigger W/ magazine
385 Criterion SAV pretfit w/ threaded muzzle ( I would do a 10 or 11 twist & the standard 308 chamber offered by criterion )
59 Lug & nut
28 barrel nut wrench
475 Bell Carlson model #2014 stock
_______________________________________
$ 1492
Or
$ 675 Mac Bros EVO II
385 Criterion Remmage prefit
59 Lug & Nut
28 Barrel nut wrench
370 KRG Bravo
35 magpul aics magazine ( not entirely sure if this works with the Bravo ?? )
150 Timney / Rilfe Basix etc etc trigger
______________________________________
$ 1702
$ 545 Savage M10AICS action/bottom metal combo ( no barrel nut or lug ) W/ accutigger W/ magazine
385 Criterion SAV pretfit w/ threaded muzzle ( I would do a 10 or 11 twist & the standard 308 chamber offered by criterion )
59 Lug & nut
28 barrel nut wrench
475 Bell Carlson model #2014 stock
_______________________________________
$ 1492
Or
$ 675 Mac Bros EVO II
385 Criterion Remmage prefit
59 Lug & Nut
28 Barrel nut wrench
370 KRG Bravo
35 magpul aics magazine ( not entirely sure if this works with the Bravo ?? )
150 Timney / Rilfe Basix etc etc trigger
______________________________________
$ 1702
Are you a .5 moa shooter ? .... or ...... Are you making an attempt to make a more accurate shot by attempting to put the burden on the weapon ?
Many times spending spending $3,000 on optics for a $1,000 weapon will get the shooter into the .5 moa range.
Some people can't spend enough money to become a .5 moa shooter.
Many times spending spending $3,000 on optics for a $1,000 weapon will get the shooter into the .5 moa range.
Some people can't spend enough money to become a .5 moa shooter.
Last edited:
I think I’m an honest 1moa shooter all day. I’m sub 1.25” at 110yards with my crossbow on a consistent basis. With a rifle I’m a solid 1” or under. I want a rifle I can grow into. But this will be the last 308 I will ever buy so I wanna make sure it’s g2g. As long as it’s consistent sub moa with box ammo I can get jiggy with it….however….feel is important too and I’m not a fan of Christianson’s arms they are just too dirty in the hands. So I’m kinda stuck on feel as well I guess. I keep bouncing from the s20 and tikkas. Really want the s20 excuses it feels like an extension of my body. I keep hearing accuracy issues about it though. Whether it’s shooter error or not idk
I can tell you this from experience...buy what you WANT or its going to cost you way more in the long run...if you WANT the S20 BUY IT...if it don't shoot put a new barrel on and you'll still be money ahead and happy...nothing worse IMHO than using something you do not REALLY like.
Get a Tikka CTR, pick you poison on scope, and put the rest into ammo and possibly training.
Once you outgrow that, you can step up into the customs and maybe an AI, which I’m surprised hasn’t been said yet.
Once you outgrow that, you can step up into the customs and maybe an AI, which I’m surprised hasn’t been said yet.
The rifle in my avatar is my current favorite hunting rifle for 3 seasons. The Thompson Center Compass II in .308 Win. It comes from the factory with 1 MOA guarantee on the first 3 shots. I took it out of the box and dragged a bore snake through it and lubed the bolt and lugs with gun grease to work the action a few times. Put some ammo in it. Actually, the cheap stuff, Armscor 168 HPBT. First two holes I measured 1/2 inches apart, center to center. This was at an old fashioned gun range where you have to wait for a ceasefire. So, I walked 100 yards with my trusty metal tape measure.
Armscor uses cheap brass that can expand and get stuck. Now having excellent results with Federal Fusion 165 grain. Still 1/2 inch after 40 rounds and no rest other than how long it takes to reload a 20 round magazine. Although, when I shot this, the rifle was still in the factory synthetic stock which ha aluminum pillar bedding. As opposed to the Orxy chassis, which is all aluminum and there is enough free air around the barrel that it is truly free-floated. Silencerco ASR2 muzzle brake.
The rifle costed about 400 dollars plus tax and free shipping and transfer fee, approx 468 total. Which leaves plenty of budget for good scopes and even a chassis, which I happen to like. The poor man's precision rifle. With a big scope and a loaded 10 round mag, it's about 12 lbs. I don't mind the extra pound. I am a maverick and believe that if I have to cut weight on my gear, it should be something else other than the main tool that I need, i.e., the rifle system.
Armscor uses cheap brass that can expand and get stuck. Now having excellent results with Federal Fusion 165 grain. Still 1/2 inch after 40 rounds and no rest other than how long it takes to reload a 20 round magazine. Although, when I shot this, the rifle was still in the factory synthetic stock which ha aluminum pillar bedding. As opposed to the Orxy chassis, which is all aluminum and there is enough free air around the barrel that it is truly free-floated. Silencerco ASR2 muzzle brake.
The rifle costed about 400 dollars plus tax and free shipping and transfer fee, approx 468 total. Which leaves plenty of budget for good scopes and even a chassis, which I happen to like. The poor man's precision rifle. With a big scope and a loaded 10 round mag, it's about 12 lbs. I don't mind the extra pound. I am a maverick and believe that if I have to cut weight on my gear, it should be something else other than the main tool that I need, i.e., the rifle system.
Get the tikka varmint over the s20.
Or get a cheap tikka and take that extra money saved and upgrade the stock and barrel etc if you feel like splurging more and come up with something better than the s20.
As far as 308 or 6.5 for hunting
Last edited:
I semi mentioned my AI. But with a $1600 budget it wasn’t really a suggestion
That Sako fits me like a glove though….very few stocks fit my frame and that s20 is one of 3 I’ve shouldered that does….I appreciate your input… also thank you for confirming my 308 over 6.5cm in terms of my indecisiveness. I’m going with the s20 and if I don’t like how she shoots with 180gr fusions or 178gr ph I’ll throw a shillen or Berliten on it and go from their.
Both my Rem 5r's 308win were legit half moa guns, as well as my Sig Cross.
Get a good one instead.
Insite heathen, ace, 419 hellfire, little bastard, tmb, etc. lots of threads on the subject.
You’ll want to compare the blast to shooter vs recoil reduction/stay on targetness. I listed them in a general less blast vs more blast to you.
Last edited:
I can handload 168gr eldm's to stay supersonic out to almost 1,100yds with my 16" cross. Otherwise the factory FGMM gets out to just over 800yds. I've shot steel out to 1,000yds with mine and it's a challenge but doable. I have a 4-16x42 on it and it matches the rifle pretty well.
I've had no issues with mine. I think a lot of the issues have been overblown. I'd check the hinge for slop while fixed not folded. My friends and mine are tight, but I have felt a sloppy one at a dealer. Sig has fixed any on the problem ones I've read about.
Spend just a little more on some variation of
Have 10x the rifle and more resale , etc.
And for long legged rats a 6mm or 6.5 or 308 will kill them fine
ELDM , TMK, soft point etc. Will work fine. I’d avoid fmj / smk / etc
Have 10x the rifle and more resale , etc.
And for long legged rats a 6mm or 6.5 or 308 will kill them fine
ELDM , TMK, soft point etc. Will work fine. I’d avoid fmj / smk / etc
I have 4 REM700 5R 308 that are all half MOA with box match ammo. They all have Timney triggers, good glass, PA muzzle brakes, and sit in McRee folding chassis.
This is all I have handy, mostly 3 shot groups. I'll try and remember to take a pic of some 5 shot groups.
Anyway: 5 shot clover leaf, but this doesn't count because it is a Spartan built REM700. 2 rounds left in the magazine, shot at 300 with the 20" 5R. 2 shots and 3 shots with scope adjustment at 200, still about half MOA. 3 shots at 100 yds with REM Green Box ammo. And just for giggles, my SIG 1911 Commander is about 6 MOA at 100 M shooting through a chrono.
Attachments
Good at recoil reduction and keeping the muzzle down, but lots of gas back toward the shooter. Have one on a 18 inch large frame AR in 308 and when shooting prone, take the shot then close my eyes while the dust and gas cloud rolls by my head...I'm not sure I like it.
OP isnt real, right? One of those new learning AI bots or something, yea?
Picking up the s20 on a killer deal next week. 1199.99…. He’ll of a deal. Thx everyone for you help. Only got 200y to play with but at camp we got 800y so I’ll be able to post my results on what she can do at extended
And I should make a correction. Someone digitally analyzed my pic and the distance was .54 inches. So, with 1 MOA being 1.047 inches, my shots were .5157 etcetera, which I rounded to .516. So, I was inaccurate stating that my rifle was .5 MOA. I apologize for the sloppy work on my part.
I picked up a S20 in 243 a few weeks ago. I have only fired it on two short range sessions. The first time I shot only two shots at 100y to confirm zero on the 4-16x scope. It was right on. The second time was at our 400y range on a very windy wet day and had a tough time self calling the shots. I shot a total of 10rds of factory ammo that day. 5rds at 100 to adjust the zero slightly and print a group. It was just under 1" with 90g Federal hunting ammo. Went to 200y and it was hitting the 4" plate with no trouble. 300y was also on. At 400 with 1.2 mil dialed in it was center punching the full sized IPSC plate when I was able to hold a sight picture well enough to see the impacts. I recently acquired a few boxes of Hornady 75g ELD BT ammo that looks promising running about 3485 fps. So far with factory ammo, I have seen no evidence of 1/2 moa groups but I have not really tried that hard to shoot groups with it. My first impression is 100% good. It is a heavy rig but any CF tgt rifle would be and it is still lighter than most HB Rem 700's by a small amount. I like the stock and the trigger is OK, good even.
Similar threads
