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300 PRC update
- Thread starter DAVETOOLEY
- Start date
Heh...in a 300PRC thread....poor chimpmunk. His super hero chipmunk name is...The Red Mist
If I'm going to influence you....then grab an MDT ACC chassis and call it a day.
This was interesting, so I'm going hijack a bit. Curious to see about work up processes. I use a modified OCW. Starting .010 off (or as close as I can comfortably get) I run 5 initial 3 round strings in 5% increments with the high side being 5% over max at 200y (doesn't mean I shoot it, it's just there if things are holding up). Normally, that'll find a node. Then I'll bracket the node 3 x 5 round strings at 200 to confirm. Then 3 x 5 at 500 varying the seating depth +.010, +.020, +.030. I don't bother shooting the initial depth at 500 because I've got a good idea of what it will do after the 200y strings. Then 2 more 5 strings at 500 to confirm. So I'm basically 55min down the pipe when done. From there, grab the 15" gong and walk it out to a failure point. Thoughts? Welcome any input if anyone has a more efficient process that's working for them. Other methods I've tried haven't panned out and really would like to find a way to get there confidently in <30.I’m not a huge fan of shooting groups while doing velocity/pressure checks. I also don’t like shooting groups when doing velocity node checks. I don’t want to get wrapped up in trying to shoot tight groups and cook a round in the chamber and then wonder why it’s 40fps faster than the average.
seating depth nodes is when the group work comes. Shooting groups has to be the most boring thing in the world but hearing that steel ringthat’s music
Yes, It is the reason I went with it. Initially I was going to go with a J Allen stock/chassis....when they won't accept your money....and won't return emails...you know something was up....and then they went under.
Hopefully MDT releases their J Allen stock this year...and I'm going to grab one of those for a build.
Yes, I have one of the new MPA ultra lite chassis for my 300prc and it takes CIP length mags.
I’m not sure if there’s a right or wrong way to do it but there are surely optimal ways. I use Scott Satterlee’s method for reloading. There’s a couple YouTube videos on it.
For large capacity cases I try to get an idea where everyone sees max pressure and charge in 0.5gn increments. Obviously no two rifles are the same but if you compare a lot of rifles, you’ll see a trend line of where max occurs.
I load two rounds of each charge weight with the bullets 0.030 off the lands. If I need to move the bullet forward or backwards from 0.030” off the lands the change in velocity will be minor unless it’s a compressed load or jammed which I don’t do either.
I shoot velocity nodes to see where the charges are close in velocity otherwise known as a flat spot on a velocity graph curve. Once I find the flat spot I’ll load some 0.2gn increment rounds to further check for the flat spot and then settle on a charge. The idea is to find a powder charge that doesn’t have a large fluctuations in velocity to the charges so if you over throw or under throw, the velocity will remain about the same and I “believe“ there’s also a temperature bonus where the temp will have less influence because you’re in the middle of a node if you load in the middle of your local temp extremes. That’s about 70-80 degrees for me.
Then I’ll shoot groups at 100yds checking seating depth. I can’t shoot much farther than that because my long range platforms don’t allow shooters to set up targets. All the targets are prestaged. But my shooting bays will allow me to set up my own targets. I have one bay that will allow for about 150yds. I use an arbor press so I adjust seating depths at the range and a Labrador or magnetospeed(with MKM mount that keeps it off the barrel) so at this point groups and velocity are concurrently check. I find the seating depth node that shoots the tightest group. Typically what I’ll see is; for example, 0.025 and 0.035 will shoot tight groups so I’ll use 0.030” and I’ll have a tolerance of +- 0.005” for seating depth.
the big take away from this method is you’re trying to find a window of tolerance with powder charges and seating depths and then loading those charges in the middle so you have some insurance with any variations that may occur during the loading process.
This method isn’t really fast but it’s one I’ve grown to trust. I’m not a bench rest shooter otherwise I think I’d probably want to test 500-1000yd groups if I had the range space. I shot PRS and tiptoeing into ELR. i already know my loading practice will have to change for the sake of barrel life.
Want some ideas for a barrel. The purpose for this barrel is to practice ELR. I was thinking something between 26” to 30” with a heavy Palma contour or something thicker.
what would you guys get for an ELR barrel?
Side question, I get pretty good deals on Proof barrels but the barrel I get a good deal on would be a 26” medium sporter barrel. Is there any reason to avoid a barrel that light? I have zero experience with light barrels. Most of my bolt barrels are no smaller than 1” at the muzzle.
what would you guys get for an ELR barrel?
Side question, I get pretty good deals on Proof barrels but the barrel I get a good deal on would be a 26” medium sporter barrel. Is there any reason to avoid a barrel that light? I have zero experience with light barrels. Most of my bolt barrels are no smaller than 1” at the muzzle.
I’m running a 30” heavy varmint 9 twist bartlein. If you were thinking about running the 250 gay tips then go with a slightly faster twist
I'm going 32" 8 twist. 1.25 straight for a 30 Sherman Magnum
That tiny barrel would be better for hunting
That tiny barrel would be better for hunting
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When do you plan to have the 30 Sherman Mag completed?
I wouldn’t mind getting better performance if all I have to do is fire form some cases.
28" Bartlein 9 twist....I didn't seem to have any problems with the 250's....just didn't like them not able to magazine feed because they are really long.
Edit: #9 Heavy Varmit flutted for more surface area to cool.
Edit: #9 Heavy Varmit flutted for more surface area to cool.
Barrel blank should be in soon along with action and brass. Rent reamer. Need dies. Waiting on 220 LRHT to arrive as well
Plans RL33 to start. Should be somewhere between 3150 and 3200 based on 28" data
you guys need to get a desert Tech then, then you have no worries about bullet seating depth
Some time ago I tried that 10 string method a few times without knowing it was a Satterlee thing. Results were inconsistent. Now that you bring it up again I have some thoughts as to why. At that time I was running 3Gun so first off, gasser. Also back then wasn't paying much attention to rate of fire, sorting, and I was small base resizing which I'm sure didn't help. I'll give it another go on RL26 / 230 BHT once the ADG show up. Appreciate the input. I think you just helped me drop 10 at least.
I found N565 to be about 1fps per degree F. Interested to see what it does in some real heat with the loads I have made up. Not just because I want to measure MV and Pressures...but because I'm tired of it being so cold.
This is one reason I like H1k so much. One day I'll be shooting and its 5 out. Next week its 70 and sunny. So having something speed up that much or slow down the same amount may not be the best for me. Here in CO at least.
So I think I settled on the Proof Research Competition contour. It’s pretty thiccc and heavy
Now I need to decide if I want a 26” or 30”.
The 30” will cost me $205 more over the 26”. 26” is a button rifled and 30” is a cut rifled.
I’ve shot a lot of button rifled barrels and never noticed a different between cut rifled.
Now I need to decide if I want a 26” or 30”.
The 30” will cost me $205 more over the 26”. 26” is a button rifled and 30” is a cut rifled.
I’ve shot a lot of button rifled barrels and never noticed a different between cut rifled.
For my 300 PRC brothers and sisters....I just posted this in the reloading section: Ballistic Tools Go/No Go Gauges and Neck Tension Gauges.
With the complaints of primer pocket failures...and questions about neck tension...I may find these tools to be invaluable in my quest to shoot the most accurate loads I can and keep an eye out for loosening primer pockets.
With the complaints of primer pocket failures...and questions about neck tension...I may find these tools to be invaluable in my quest to shoot the most accurate loads I can and keep an eye out for loosening primer pockets.
Only solids I've ever run were Lehigh. There was no material benefit for my purposes, but that was prior moving beyond 1750. May be worth taking another look. I've got a build in progress, 4 loads to work, and brass prep in the 000's that needs attending to up before I even want to think about doing anything else. ***Side note: Did some more research and found an old '17 thread on Satterlee that gave me some ideas. I think I may be able shed up to 20. If it works out I'll let you know the sequence.
As long as it hasn’t a mag bolt face you should be good. You might have to have some work done to allow for CIP length mags, that’s minor tho.
PRC barrel showed up for the AXMC today.
27" Tooley spun up Bartlein. With TBAC 338 can on it
76.9 gr of RL26 in once fired Hornady brass
215 bergers
3038 fps.
Excited to see what it does when it speeds up. Only a handful of rounds on the barrel today. Will work up some loads and see how it shoots. Was just seeing if my loads from my other PRC didnt get crazy in this rifle. Going from 26 to 27 inch barrel I gained 30fps more.
27" Tooley spun up Bartlein. With TBAC 338 can on it
76.9 gr of RL26 in once fired Hornady brass
215 bergers
3038 fps.
Excited to see what it does when it speeds up. Only a handful of rounds on the barrel today. Will work up some loads and see how it shoots. Was just seeing if my loads from my other PRC didnt get crazy in this rifle. Going from 26 to 27 inch barrel I gained 30fps more.
I may have converted another to the dark side of the 300 PRC. @Luvman it was great shooting with you today in Hazard, KY. Being able to stretch out to 1600 was nice....on such a beautiful day.
Hopefully the next time I shoot will be with new ADG brass.
Hopefully the next time I shoot will be with new ADG brass.
I'd certainly considered the dark side aspects of shooting disciplines and mentality, but for some reason your post made me think of having a droid to help with menial ELR tasks.
I'm going to name my droid "QMOA". (quarter MOA)
"QMOA, go put a fresh coat of paint on that 30" target."
My droid is B2D2...and some days he shoots like those 'roger roger' droids....you know...the useless ones.
Seen the other thread (https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/300-prc-proof-cf-twist-rate-question.6929362/) about 300PRC twist. I went ahead and ordered a 1:9 twist for mine. If 9.4 works good, will straight 9 be better?
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