300 PRC update

[m1ajunkie]

Most likely the RPR Chamber is slightly larger at the case head area. And on the MRAD, it's tighter chamber. You would need a small base die. Or have a gunsmith open up the chamber a bit (0.001"-0.002"?) at the 0.200 (case head part of the chamber).

Also, try Lapua brass...might mitigate this issue better.

I had a similar issue on a 6.5CM match chamber. ADG, S&B, federal brass all did this after a few firings. Lapua brass worked like a charm.

I was thinking of trying some lapua brass.... challenge is finding it. I'm stacked pretty deep of ADG so I've never sprung for lapua. Will keep an eye out though.

I also decided to shoot barrett an email for their thoughts so I'll be curious what their response is.

 

[LongRangeAggie]

I've run into an issue with my Barrett MRAD 300 PRC barrel that has me scratching my head. I'm using ADG cases that have 5 or 6 firings on them, previous firings went through through a RPR that never gave an issue. Loaded these cases up and ran them through my MRAD once, no problem, then reloaded them as I've always done and now every case is getting stuck in the chamber. Very difficult to pull the bolt even on relatively mild loads.

I ran 10 virgin cases through the rifle today with zero issue, so it's clearly a reloading/ die issue.....

Through research here on the forum I've narrowed it down to my chamber is tight and my hornady bushing die isn't sizing the case web small enough and the case is sticking in the chamber making it hard to pull the bolt back.

Here are the measurements at the case web (.2" up from the base) I'm getting for reference:

Virgin ADG case- .5265"
Fired case- .5305-.531
Resized in my hornady die- .5295-.530"

Is this something I should contact Barrett about? Do they make "small base" dies for 300PRC? Reaming my chamber is apparently an option but is that normal?

My loads for reference:

230 atip- 77.7gr H1000- 2850 FPS
250 atip- 75.9 H1000- 2750 FPS

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

Ran into the same problem with my Christensen MPR. I bought the JGS Alex Wheeler modified 300 PRC reamer and it has solved all my issues with ADG and stuck cases. I highly recommend you go this route. Read through this thread for more info. https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/the-prc-die-problem.253223/page-10

JGS Custom Reamers & Gauges

Are you chasing that new cartridge or wildcat? Do you have an idea for a new cartridge and need a reamer to match your vision? You've come to the right place. JGS Precision specializes in helping visionaries in the sport bring their dreams to light. Call us today to talk about your custom reamer...

www.jgsprecision.com

 

[Rocketmandb]

I've run into an issue with my Barrett MRAD 300 PRC barrel that has me scratching my head. I'm using ADG cases that have 5 or 6 firings on them, previous firings went through through a RPR that never gave an issue. Loaded these cases up and ran them through my MRAD once, no problem, then reloaded them as I've always done and now every case is getting stuck in the chamber. Very difficult to pull the bolt even on relatively mild loads.

I ran 10 virgin cases through the rifle today with zero issue, so it's clearly a reloading/ die issue.....

Through research here on the forum I've narrowed it down to my chamber is tight and my hornady bushing die isn't sizing the case web small enough and the case is sticking in the chamber making it hard to pull the bolt back.

Here are the measurements at the case web (.2" up from the base) I'm getting for reference:

Virgin ADG case- .5265"
Fired case- .5305-.531
Resized in my hornady die- .5295-.530"

Is this something I should contact Barrett about? Do they make "small base" dies for 300PRC? Reaming my chamber is apparently an option but is that normal?

My loads for reference:

230 atip- 77.7gr H1000- 2850 FPS
250 atip- 75.9 H1000- 2750 FPS

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

Very common problem when using brass in different chambers. Your Barrett chamber is slightly smaller than your RPR chamber, your die isn't small enough (Hornady dies are large), and your brass doesn't have enough room to expand from the shot and spring back enough to extract appropriately.

If you shoot two rifles of the same caliber, best to keep the brass separate.

 

[m1ajunkie]

Very common problem when using brass in different chambers. Your Barrett chamber is slightly smaller than your RPR chamber, your die isn't small enough (Hornady dies are large), and your brass doesn't have enough room to expand from the shot and spring back enough to extract appropriately.

If you shoot two rifles of the same caliber, best to keep the brass separate.

I believe this is exactly what happened.... lesson learned on my part. I swapped to some virgin ADG brass and picked up a redding type S die. Ran 15 pieces of virgin brass through the rifle, obviously no issue the first time through.... then resized and reloaded and ran that brass through a second time with no issues.

Fingers crossed swapping to a different batch of brass and a new redding die have my issues solved.

Appreciate all the help from those that chimed in here on the hide!

 

[Killer Deal]

Finally got this beast put together. Will be reporting how LD goes with LRT and 7828ssc and 230gr atips in the Bartlein 1:8 @ 28"

 

[m1ajunkie]

I've been spending time shooting my 300 PRC lately and I've got a load that shoots really solid groups. My challenge is with my SD and ES..... really scratching my head on how to improve my numbers. I've actually performed 2 different ladder tests and the first ladder pointed me to 77.7gr H1000, and the second 78.1 H1000.

I've loaded up multiple rounds at both powder charges and ran across the chrony on multiple times. A couple times I'm able to achieve single digit SDs (5 rd strings), but when I run 10-12 rd stings are look at the data cumulatively, my ES end up about 40 fps and SD about 13-14 for each powder charge.......

Reloading wise I'm anealing with Temp set by tempilaq 750, bushing (.333) die, run a mandrel throgh prior to seating, powder drop is consistent, seating depth is consistent.

Load is ADG brass, H1000 powder, 230 atip, CCI mganum primer

Any ideas on what I might be missing to improve my performance? I only shoot this rifle from 1000-2000 so inconsistent velocity is very challenging.

For reference, here's velocity on 12 rds across the chrony the other night from high to low.... the 2906fps was my first shot of the night

2906
2896
2894
2889
2886
2881
2879
2877
2876
2872
2863
2863
2859

 

[Killer Deal]

I've been spending time shooting my 300 PRC lately and I've got a load that shoots really solid groups. My challenge is with my SD and ES..... really scratching my head on how to improve my numbers. I've actually performed 2 different ladder tests and the first ladder pointed me to 77.7gr H1000, and the second 78.1 H1000.

I've loaded up multiple rounds at both powder charges and ran across the chrony on multiple times. A couple times I'm able to achieve single digit SDs (5 rd strings), but when I run 10-12 rd stings are look at the data cumulatively, my ES end up about 40 fps and SD about 13-14 for each powder charge.......

Reloading wise I'm anealing with Temp set by tempilaq 750, bushing (.333) die, run a mandrel throgh prior to seating, powder drop is consistent, seating depth is consistent.

Load is ADG brass, H1000 powder, 230 atip, CCI mganum primer

Any ideas on what I might be missing to improve my performance? I only shoot this rifle from 1000-2000 so inconsistent velocity is very challenging.

For reference, here's velocity on 12 rds across the chrony the other night from high to low.... the 2906fps was my first shot of the night

2906
2896
2894
2889
2886
2881
2879
2877
2876
2872
2863
2863
2859

What are you using to throw or measure powder?

 

[b2lee]

What are you using to throw or measure powder?

^^^^ This.....if you want to improve your ES and SD...get an AutoTricklerV3/4....and measure your powder down to the individual kernel. You may also want to invest in an AMP Annealer. If you want to seriously play in the 1k to 2k range...and compete....you are going to need precise tools and an understanding of what exactly they do and how to use them.

The 1k to 2k yard game is a tough one...and can be expensive. Good luck.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

I've been spending time shooting my 300 PRC lately and I've got a load that shoots really solid groups. My challenge is with my SD and ES..... really scratching my head on how to improve my numbers. I've actually performed 2 different ladder tests and the first ladder pointed me to 77.7gr H1000, and the second 78.1 H1000.

I've loaded up multiple rounds at both powder charges and ran across the chrony on multiple times. A couple times I'm able to achieve single digit SDs (5 rd strings), but when I run 10-12 rd stings are look at the data cumulatively, my ES end up about 40 fps and SD about 13-14 for each powder charge.......

Reloading wise I'm anealing with Temp set by tempilaq 750, bushing (.333) die, run a mandrel throgh prior to seating, powder drop is consistent, seating depth is consistent.

Load is ADG brass, H1000 powder, 230 atip, CCI mganum primer

Any ideas on what I might be missing to improve my performance? I only shoot this rifle from 1000-2000 so inconsistent velocity is very challenging.

For reference, here's velocity on 12 rds across the chrony the other night from high to low.... the 2906fps was my first shot of the night

2906
2896
2894
2889
2886
2881
2879
2877
2876
2872
2863
2863
2859

sounds like your almost to the point of sorting and more measuring.

How much are you bumping the shoulder from fired? have you measured the lot after sizing to see what the ES is on shoulder bump? I get some that for some reason over or under bump by a couple thou. I ran a test on my 6.5 CM and an 8 thou spread has about a 30fps avg difference getting lower the farther the bump.

Another thing Ive started doing on the 300 PRC is getting some pin guages from amazon and measuring inside neck diameter sometimes having to use the manderel more than once to get a uniform neck. looking into a arbor press to see if it actually helps seating pressure but they sure feel way more consistent.

 

[m1ajunkie]

What are you using to throw or measure powder?

Appreciate the responses so far.... I am using an RCBS match master powder dispenser that I've had for a couple years.

To clarify, I'm not necessarily trying to compete, I just want to have enough consistency that I can have fun shooting steel at these distances. For what it's worth, I'm very happy with my performance out to about 1500.... after that is when I can see the velocity start to give me trouble. The other night I was able to fire a round, look at the speed on the chrony, call where I think the shot will land based on speed and then look back in the scope and watch the round land.

Given my current processes and reloading setup, am I wasting my time chasing consistent single digit SDs? Should I accept an SD of 13 and roll with that for now?

 

[m1ajunkie]

sounds like your almost to the point of sorting and more measuring.

How much are you bumping the shoulder from fired? have you measured the lot after sizing to see what the ES is on shoulder bump? I get some that for some reason over or under bump by a couple thou. I ran a test on my 6.5 CM and an 8 thou spread has about a 30fps avg difference getting lower the farther the bump.

Another thing Ive started doing on the 300 PRC is getting some pin guages from amazon and measuring inside neck diameter sometimes having to use the manderel more than once to get a uniform neck. looking into a arbor press to see if it actually helps seating pressure but they sure feel way more consistent.

Shoulder bump is something I was just thinking I should look at closer..... I target .002 bump, but inevitably every piece doesn't land at .002. I would estimate 2/3 of my pieces land at .002, but the other 3rd lands + or - .001 from that target. To date, I've just been running all these together, but maybe I should look for improvement here....

 

[Killer Deal]

Appreciate the responses so far.... I am using an RCBS match master powder dispenser that I've had for a couple years.

To clarify, I'm not necessarily trying to compete, I just want to have enough consistency that I can have fun shooting steel at these distances. For what it's worth, I'm very happy with my performance out to about 1500.... after that is when I can see the velocity start to give me trouble. The other night I was able to fire a round, look at the speed on the chrony, call where I think the shot will land based on speed and then look back in the scope and watch the round land.

Given my current processes and reloading setup, am I wasting my time chasing consistent single digit SDs? Should I accept an SD of 13 and roll with that for now?

Judging from your process there's something that's inconsistent, because it may not be repeatable. Single digit SDs is very attainable if everything is done in a precise and measurable manner. I'd be happy with an ES of less than 25 which in general will yield an SD of less than 10.

I don't think you need to accept that but @2aBaCa mentioned perfectly your brass to brass annealing time might not be as consistent you it might seem, definitely want to automate that. Annealing over your average time means you neck tension will be a little looser and the under your average it might be tighter with more spring back. Then the next thing to look at would be your shoulder bump when you Full length resize your brass.

Neck Tension is where I'd look at first if you're confident that your powder measure is working well and right. Annealing, FL Resizing, Brass Prep, Shoulder Bump and setting the neck tension.

 

[Killer Deal]

Shoulder bump is something I was just thinking I should look at closer..... I target .002 bump, but inevitably every piece doesn't land at .002. I would estimate 2/3 of my pieces land at .002, but the other 3rd lands + or - .001 from that target. To date, I've just been running all these together, but maybe I should look for improvement here....

If it's that consistent then I'd say that's pretty good to go. Just check them and see how they spread from brass to brass. Otherwise, look at another part of the process.

 

[m1ajunkie]

Judging from your process there's something that's inconsistent, because it may not be repeatable. Single digit SDs is very attainable if everything is done in a precise and measurable manner. I'd be happy with an ES of less than 25 which in general will yield an SD of less than 10.

I don't think you need to accept that but @2aBaCa mentioned perfectly your brass to brass annealing time might not be as consistent you it might seem, definitely want to automate that. Annealing over your average time means you neck tension will be a little looser and the under your average it might be tighter with more spring back. Then the next thing to look at would be your shoulder bump when you Full length resize your brass.

Neck Tension is where I'd look at first if you're confident that your powder measure is working well and right. Annealing, FL Resizing, Brass Prep, Shoulder Bump and setting the neck tension.

Good stuff, thank you. Annealing is an opportunity for improvement...... currently using an annealeez which seems to work okay, but I have noticed I have to anneal all of my brass in 1 "lot" at a time as getting the flame set is tricky. My thought in annealing all as 1 lot should allow me to set the time and flame per the tempilaq for that batch and then all 50 should come out annealed similar.

Currently judging annealing/ neck tension by feel when I seat the bullet on my arbor press.... On occasion I do get a handful of bullets that seat easier or harder than the average and I assume those are going to be outliers.

 

[Killer Deal]

Good stuff, thank you. Annealing is an opportunity for improvement...... currently using an annealeez which seems to work okay, but I have noticed I have to anneal all of my brass in 1 "lot" at a time as getting the flame set is tricky. My thought in annealing all as 1 lot should allow me to set the time and flame per the tempilaq for that batch and then all 50 should come out annealed similar.

Currently judging annealing/ neck tension by feel when I seat the bullet on my arbor press.... On occasion I do get a handful of bullets that seat easier or harder than the average and I assume those are going to be outliers.

There you go, just little verbal processing. You got it. You're in the right head space just need to trouble shoot some more.

All That being said there is always the scenario that this is the best your set up can do with the component combination because well our rifles like what they like. But trouble shoot first. I always start with user error before mechanical error or limitations.

Work on just one variable at a time so you can say with Certainty it was this or that to save yourself from pulling your hair out later.

Just out of curiosity when your shooting at distance what do your strings of fire look like? (Round count in a specific time frame) and what's your barrel profile on your rifle?

 

[Schw15]

Good stuff, thank you. Annealing is an opportunity for improvement...... currently using an annealeez which seems to work okay, but I have noticed I have to anneal all of my brass in 1 "lot" at a time as getting the flame set is tricky. My thought in annealing all as 1 lot should allow me to set the time and flame per the tempilaq for that batch and then all 50 should come out annealed similar.

Currently judging annealing/ neck tension by feel when I seat the bullet on my arbor press.... On occasion I do get a handful of bullets that seat easier or harder than the average and I assume those are going to be outliers.

Not a professional at all but I'd look at consistent neck tension and prolly play with powder charge a little to see if it settles down even more. Just a thought I shoot out to 2k but I don't compete and I don't use any of the fancy stuff and have single digit SD 29 rds and my SD was 6.7

 

[Schw15]

Also how far off lands you loading the 230 a-tip? I shot them a little and had great luck 20 off single digit sd

 

[m1ajunkie]

String of fire depends but normally I'm shooting 5 round strings and that probably takes 2ish minutes.... trying to get rounds on target in similar wind conditions. Then take a break for 5 minutes or so to reload and observe. Really only firing 20ish rounds per evening. Barrel profile I'm not sure....it's a factory barrett mrad barrel.

I also decided to clean my barrel today as it had right at 150 rds through it since the last cleaning. Curious what impact that will have on my groups/ velocity if anything.

 

[m1ajunkie]

Also how far off lands you loading the 230 a-tip? I shot them a little and had great luck 20 off single digit sd

Due to mag length the closest I can get is .065..... testing jump I felt like .080-.090 was where accuracy was best so that's where I'm currently loading..... guess I didn't think about jump impacting SD.

If I could get an SD of 10 across 29 similar to what you're seeing I'd be ecstatic.

Really appreciate the trouble shooting help from each of you.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

honestly if youre shooting long distance at leasure theres nothing wrong with hand feeding each round if it means getting closer to the lands and better accuracy. most long distance shooters hand feed from what I see.

 

[Schw15]

Due to mag length the closest I can get is .065..... testing jump I felt like .080-.090 was where accuracy was best so that's where I'm currently loading..... guess I didn't think about jump impacting SD.

If I could get an SD of 10 across 29 similar to what you're seeing I'd be ecstatic.

Really appreciate the trouble shooting help from each of you.

Maybe try some and single feed just to see what it does. I have some barrels that single feed some that mag feed. I really don't mind single feeding when just casual shooting at distance

 

[m1ajunkie]

honestly if youre shooting long distance at leasure theres nothing wrong with hand feeding each round if it means getting closer to the lands and better accuracy. most long distance shooters hand feed from what I see.

I'm going to give it a try.... nothing to lose as my ELR shooting is just for fun.

 

[m1ajunkie]

So I got curious tonight and weighed some bullets.... I was surprised by the weight spread I found on just 25 230 atips. Wondering if this spread in bullet weight might be a variable that I'm fighting?

I found a .52gr spread from high to low and weights pretty across the board.

 

[phlegethon]

So I got curious tonight and weighed some bullets.... I was surprised by the weight spread I found on just 25 230 atips. Wondering if this spread in bullet weight might be a variable that I'm fighting?

I found a .52gr spread from high to low and weights pretty across the board.
View attachment 7838005

That’s less than 0.5%. And bullet weight variations are self compensating to an extent because BC and velocity are inversely correlated. Applied Ballistics did a ton of testing and found weight sorting was a waste of time.

 

[m1ajunkie]

That’s less than 0.5%. And bullet weight variations are self compensating to an extent because BC and velocity are inversely correlated. Applied Ballistics did a ton of testing and found weight sorting was a waste of time.

Perfect, sounds like my time is better spent elsewhere.

Thank you

 

[Killer Deal]

Due to mag length the closest I can get is .065..... testing jump I felt like .080-.090 was where accuracy was best so that's where I'm currently loading..... guess I didn't think about jump impacting SD.

If I could get an SD of 10 across 29 similar to what you're seeing I'd be ecstatic.

Really appreciate the trouble shooting help from each of you.

Typically, jump doesn't affect or minimally effects SDs/ESs unless your jammed into the lands from my experience, but jump can effect it to be clear (and not to get crucified here). If you do change your charge weight you may need to change your seating depth to stay in the accuracy node.

Just make sure you make a list of things your checking & record and then if you are changing any thing do them one at a time.

If you're jumping that far, my RX would be to focus on your brass prep and neck tension procedure first, then address jump afterwards if you haven't resolved the issue.

Another question, how many firings do you have on you brass?

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

what brass are you using? the way I look at it everything has an effect even if its small and alone wouldnt amount to much but all those small effects add up. take the extremes of the spread of all the variables that go into reloading and add them together. the trick is finding the one that has the most impact. and thats how guys end up with a V4, a zero press, amp annealer, neck turning, etc.

 

[m1ajunkie]

Typically, jump doesn't affect or minimally effects SDs/ESs unless your jammed into the lands from my experience, but jump can effect it to be clear (and not to get crucified here). If you do change your charge weight you may need to change your seating depth to stay in the accuracy node.

Just make sure you make a list of things your checking & record and then if you are changing any thing do them one at a time.

If you're jumping that far, my RX would be to focus on your brass prep and neck tension procedure first, then address jump afterwards if you haven't resolved the issue.

Another question, how many firings do you have on you brass?

Through my seating depth testing and then a second ladder test is how I ended up moving from 77.7gr to 78.1 gr. Adjusting the seating depth had enough impact on velocity consistency that I did a second ladder test after landing on the jump that seemed to provide the best accuracy.

Brass currently has 3 firings on it, going into the 4th firing this weekend. For sure planning to spend my time on brass prep and planning to do a better job documenting changes. Also thinking I could experiment with a .334 bushing as so far all of my reloading has been with the .333 bushing.

 

[Killer Deal]

Through my seating depth testing and then a second ladder test is how I ended up moving from 77.7gr to 78.1 gr. Adjusting the seating depth had enough impact on velocity consistency that I did a second ladder test after landing on the jump that seemed to provide the best accuracy.

Brass currently has 3 firings on it, going into the 4th firing this weekend. For sure planning to spend my time on brass prep and planning to do a better job documenting changes. Also thinking I could experiment with a .334 bushing as so far all of my reloading has been with the .333 bushing.

100%, sounds good. And are you using an expander mandrel?

 

[babyguppy]

Not a professional at all but I'd look at consistent neck tension and prolly play with powder charge a little to see if it settles down even more. Just a thought I shoot out to 2k but I don't compete and I don't use any of the fancy stuff and have single digit SD 29 rds and my SD was 6.7

Didn't someone mention in another post, about making sure the bullet or inside of the case neck is lubed? I thought they mentioned that lube helps with a more consistent bullet seating pressure.

 

[nick338]

Anyone test the N568 with their PRC yet? I remember seeing a picture of someone in this thread but don't recall seeing any results?

 

[Rocketmandb]

Perfect, sounds like my time is better spent elsewhere.

Thank you

Honestly, you need to look at the basics before going to things like sorting. Solid load development and seating depth exercises should get you well below where you're sitting. You should be able to easily get to single-digit SDs with the components you're using.

Find a load that gives the best SD/group to start, then tune it down with seating depth and other things during the process. I'd love to know the following:

- How did you arrive at the charge weight you're using?
- Did you simply set seating depth based on mag length? As others have said, many of us single feed regardless. Seating depth is a critical step in the load dev process.
- Do you lube your necks? This makes a noticeable improvement in consistency. I've got a thread where I measured the results of lube vs. no lube, mandrel vs. no mandrel, both vs. nothing:

Mandrel Musings

When I first got my K&M arbor press for seating, I was somewhat surprised at the spread of the values of force required to seat bullets. Knowing that neck tension plays a significant role in ES/SD, I started doing various things to try to bring seating force in line. I had been doing most my...

www.snipershide.com

 

[nick338]

Honestly, you need to look at the basics before going to things like sorting. Solid load development and seating depth exercises should get you well below where you're sitting. You should be able to easily get to single-digit SDs with the components you're using.

Find a load that gives the best SD/group to start, then tune it down with seating depth and other things during the process. I'd love to know the following:

- How did you arrive at the charge weight you're using?
- Did you simply set seating depth based on mag length? As others have said, many of us single feed regardless. Seating depth is a critical step in the load dev process.
- Do you lube your necks? This makes a noticeable improvement in consistency. I've got a thread where I measured the results of lube vs. no lube, mandrel vs. no mandrel, both vs. nothing:

Mandrel Musings

When I first got my K&M arbor press for seating, I was somewhat surprised at the spread of the values of force required to seat bullets. Knowing that neck tension plays a significant role in ES/SD, I started doing various things to try to bring seating force in line. I had been doing most my...

www.snipershide.com

Did you ever finish up the bushing test? Curious because I used just a lube and mandrel on new cases but the mandrel alone is not going to work on a fired case unless I use a tighter bushing to size the neck down and then run the mandrel through it.

 

[hafejd30]

Question,

If you were running Lapua brass, 212 ELDX, CCI 250 and planned to shoot in weather 30°-85° which powder would you choose??

Assuming you have a decent stock of both

Retumbo

Or

RL26

26” 1:9” AXMC Bartlein

 

[b2lee]

RL-26 all friggin day.....but I'm biased...I hate Retumbo. I've run RL-26 from -5F to 101F....out to 2500yds....but I generally shoot a Berger 245EOL with Fed 215M's

 

[hafejd30]

RL-26 all friggin day.....but I'm biased...I hate Retumbo. I've run RL-26 from -5F to 101F....out to 2500yds....but I generally shoot a Berger 245EOL with Fed 215M's

Just curious I saw some results you posted running around 1/2 moa with the Retumbo. Just curious what made you dislike it?

Reason I’m asking is I have 5 lbs of RL 26. But will have 16-24 lbs of Retumbo I can buy. Been also thinking of going 300 NM so maybe that be better for Retumbo

I just hate using powder with different lot# every lbs or very hard to get. I’d have at least 16 lbs of same lot Retumbo. Just need a barrel for the AI that likes to shoot it

 

[TripleBull]

Anyone test the N568 with their PRC yet? I remember seeing a picture of someone in this thread but don't recall seeing any results?

Just a start, see posts 61 & 68:

300 PRC

Having good results with 8133 so far, excited to narrow the node down and find some good ES numbers with fired brass. Bullet Seating Depth Neck Tension Brass Brass Condition Powder Weight # Shots MV Avg ES SD Notes Berger 230 OTM Hybrid Part # 30112 2.889 .001" ADG NEW IMR 8133 75.5 3...

www.snipershide.com

 

[b2lee]

Just curious I saw some results you posted running around 1/2 moa with the Retumbo. Just curious what made you dislike it?

Reason I’m asking is I have 5 lbs of RL 26. But will have 16-24 lbs of Retumbo I can buy. Been also thinking of going 300 NM so maybe that be better for Retumbo

I just hate using powder with different lot# every lbs or very hard to get. I’d have at least 16 lbs of same lot Retumbo. Just need a barrel for the AI that likes to shoot it

My problems with Retumbo isn't 100yd groups...it is speed...I need a certain speed with acceptable pressures to sling this 245gr EOL or 230 Atip out to 2500yds and not blow the primer pockets out...or need a hammer to get the bolt open. It's all about trying to utilize my scope and get maximum elevation out without hold over. One side benefit of RL-26...I use several grains less of it to achieve my goals....so the thrifting of powder goes a long way when you shoot a lot.

 

[Schw15]

My problems with Retumbo isn't 100yd groups...it is speed...I need a certain speed with acceptable pressures to sling this 245gr EOL or 230 Atip out to 2500yds and not blow the primer pockets out...or need a hammer to get the bolt open. It's all about trying to utilize my scope and get maximum elevation out without hold over. One side benefit of RL-26...I use several grains less of it to achieve my goals....so the thrifting of powder goes a long way when you shoot a lot.

Have you seen fast throat growth with rl26?

 

[Rocketmandb]

Did you ever finish up the bushing test? Curious because I used just a lube and mandrel on new cases but the mandrel alone is not going to work on a fired case unless I use a tighter bushing to size the neck down and then run the mandrel through it.

I didn't I will, but I just switched over to Lapua. I'm going to compare ADG to Lapua and see what I get.

 

[b2lee]

Have you seen fast throat growth with rl26?

I don't even look anymore. I just shoot until I start losing velocity and then spin another barrel on. I have a practice barrel with 1500 rounds on it...and it's still good. I pulled it from competition at 1200...which was too early....the problem was a cleaning issue.

 

[babyguppy]

I didn't I will, but I just switched over to Lapua. I'm going to compare ADG to Lapua and see what I get.

+1 for ADG brass
edit - but..... between Lapua and ADG if cost is equal, I'd take Lapua

 

[LongRangeAggie]

Didn't someone mention in another post, about making sure the bullet or inside of the case neck is lubed? I thought they mentioned that lube helps with a more consistent bullet seating pressure.

Just get the carbide mandrel from Sinclair and you don't need lube. https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload.../carbide-neck-turning-mandrels-prod36422.aspx

 

[nick338]

Just get the carbide mandrel from Sinclair and you don't need lube. https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload.../carbide-neck-turning-mandrels-prod36422.aspx

I would still lube the inside of the neck. Quick pass with a nylon brush and then Hornady One Shot with a bore mop on the inside of the neck has made for the least resistant seating pressure yet. There is a definite felt difference in the lubed vs non-lubed seating as well as how the mandrel feels as it passes through. Should translate into more consistent neck tension.

 

[LongRangeAggie]

I would still lube the inside of the neck. Quick pass with a nylon brush and then Hornady One Shot with a bore mop on the inside of the neck has made for the least resistant seating pressure yet. There is a definite felt difference in the lubed vs non-lubed seating as well as how the mandrel feels as it passes through. Should translate into more consistent neck tension.

Do you use a carbide mandrel?

 

[Rocketmandb]

Do you use a carbide mandrel?

I use a carbide mandrel and use lube. I lube before using the mandrel, but don't lube again prior to seating.

 

[nick338]

Do you use a carbide mandrel?

21st Century is what I use.

 

[hafejd30]

I’ll be giving the 21’st century black nitride one a go on my 300 PRC. Redding bushing .003 under. Then expanding mandrel

Hoping to get .0015” tension with that combo. May have to modify it a touch

Honestly would just use a Lee Collet and Redding body die which has worked very well for my 260 and 300 WM for years if they made one for the PRC

 

[4KDOA]

N565 AND 568 at Powder Valley now. 8lb

 

[BCX]

Scored some n568 to add to my n570 stash. Thanks man