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.300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
- Thread starter rcamuglia
- Start date
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
I use 74.6 grains of H1000 in Win Brass. I always try to stick with the "extreme" powders as the temps around here vary from -30 - 100 degrees.
I use 74.6 grains of H1000 in Win Brass. I always try to stick with the "extreme" powders as the temps around here vary from -30 - 100 degrees.
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
Not sure what you are putting it through, but 78 grs H1000 in WW brass seems to do the job
Not sure what you are putting it through, but 78 grs H1000 in WW brass seems to do the job
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
Retumbo is a slower burnging powder than h1000. I like H1000 for the 210 and below pills. retumbo is excellent for 220 t0 240 grain bullets. you'll get more velocity out of retumbo with the 208 than h1000 but I don't know about accuracy. I beleive it's 81.0 grains retumbo max for the 208
Retumbo is a slower burnging powder than h1000. I like H1000 for the 210 and below pills. retumbo is excellent for 220 t0 240 grain bullets. you'll get more velocity out of retumbo with the 208 than h1000 but I don't know about accuracy. I beleive it's 81.0 grains retumbo max for the 208
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
300 win mag?? H1000! Currently getting .147" groups at 100 yds. 208gr AMAX and Rem brass. You will be happy with it. Whats yer BBL. length? Mines 26". By the way, anyone know where I can find 208 AMAX bullets and Rem Brass? Cant find it anywhere.
300 win mag?? H1000! Currently getting .147" groups at 100 yds. 208gr AMAX and Rem brass. You will be happy with it. Whats yer BBL. length? Mines 26". By the way, anyone know where I can find 208 AMAX bullets and Rem Brass? Cant find it anywhere.
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
Thanks guys,
I was lucky enough to find an 8#er of H-1000 at my local bike shop. LOL!
Ba,
I wish I could tell you where. The frenzy that's going on now sucks. Luckily I have 1000 208's tucked away....
Thanks guys,
I was lucky enough to find an 8#er of H-1000 at my local bike shop. LOL!
Ba,
I wish I could tell you where. The frenzy that's going on now sucks. Luckily I have 1000 208's tucked away....
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
Ive had great results with H 1000. Have had trouble finding Retumbo, but with the results I've gotten, I dont know that its worth trying to work up a load with Retumbo. I've found accuracy of about .250 using 71.7 with Hornady brass.
Ive had great results with H 1000. Have had trouble finding Retumbo, but with the results I've gotten, I dont know that its worth trying to work up a load with Retumbo. I've found accuracy of about .250 using 71.7 with Hornady brass.
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
I don't think you need anything slower than H1000 with that bullet in a 26" barrel. I Like it, but since if got a 24" barrel I'm starting to think that 4831sc may be a better choice
I don't think you need anything slower than H1000 with that bullet in a 26" barrel. I Like it, but since if got a 24" barrel I'm starting to think that 4831sc may be a better choice
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hueys66</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not sure what you are putting it through, but 78 grs H1000 in WW brass seems to do the job </div></div>
I use the same load, and it shoots great out of both the Sako TRG and the Savage 110 BA.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hueys66</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not sure what you are putting it through, but 78 grs H1000 in WW brass seems to do the job </div></div>
I use the same load, and it shoots great out of both the Sako TRG and the Savage 110 BA.
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
I dont want to derail this thread at all but I am just now getting started building my loads for my newly rebarreled 300wm. I have not fired a shot yet. It got a 22" barrel and will be shot mostly with a TBAC 30P on it. I have heard that slower powder in shorter barrels and suppressors can cuase a secondary explosion inside the suppressor as the bullet is passing through.
I plan to play with H4350 pushing 208s and see what I get. The Hornady handbook as some good load data for me with this powder and bullet so ill try it.
If I had a 26" barrel I would do H1000, that seems to be the standard around here.
I dont want to derail this thread at all but I am just now getting started building my loads for my newly rebarreled 300wm. I have not fired a shot yet. It got a 22" barrel and will be shot mostly with a TBAC 30P on it. I have heard that slower powder in shorter barrels and suppressors can cuase a secondary explosion inside the suppressor as the bullet is passing through.
I plan to play with H4350 pushing 208s and see what I get. The Hornady handbook as some good load data for me with this powder and bullet so ill try it.
If I had a 26" barrel I would do H1000, that seems to be the standard around here.
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
82gr of Retumbo w the 208's is right at 3000fps out of my AIAW 300WM. No pressure signs, one ragged hole accuracy at 100yds. 6.8mil to 1000yds. Load has worked well for me here in AL in temps from the 20's to high 90's.
It's a FULL case of powder! Work up to this slowly as YMMV.
Good luck finding any of this right now....
82gr of Retumbo w the 208's is right at 3000fps out of my AIAW 300WM. No pressure signs, one ragged hole accuracy at 100yds. 6.8mil to 1000yds. Load has worked well for me here in AL in temps from the 20's to high 90's.
It's a FULL case of powder! Work up to this slowly as YMMV.
Good luck finding any of this right now....
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maverick26</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I dont want to derail this thread at all but I am just now getting started building my loads for my newly rebarreled 300wm. I have not fired a shot yet. It got a 22" barrel and will be shot mostly with a TBAC 30P on it. I have heard that slower powder in shorter barrels and suppressors can cuase a secondary explosion inside the suppressor as the bullet is passing through.
I plan to play with H4350 pushing 208s and see what I get. The Hornady handbook as some good load data for me with this powder and bullet so ill try it.
If I had a 26" barrel I would do H1000, that seems to be the standard around here.</div></div>
Not to be a know it all but I tried h4350 with the 208 amax and the velocity and accuracy weren't there. My best results came from 72.6 h1000 out of a 30" broughton 5c trued rem. Right around 3000 fps with 1/2moa at 100. Just my experience
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maverick26</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I dont want to derail this thread at all but I am just now getting started building my loads for my newly rebarreled 300wm. I have not fired a shot yet. It got a 22" barrel and will be shot mostly with a TBAC 30P on it. I have heard that slower powder in shorter barrels and suppressors can cuase a secondary explosion inside the suppressor as the bullet is passing through.
I plan to play with H4350 pushing 208s and see what I get. The Hornady handbook as some good load data for me with this powder and bullet so ill try it.
If I had a 26" barrel I would do H1000, that seems to be the standard around here.</div></div>
Not to be a know it all but I tried h4350 with the 208 amax and the velocity and accuracy weren't there. My best results came from 72.6 h1000 out of a 30" broughton 5c trued rem. Right around 3000 fps with 1/2moa at 100. Just my experience
Re: .300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aimsmall55</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Strike that ....76.2 </div></div>
I kinda thought that looked like a powder puff load..
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aimsmall55</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Strike that ....76.2 </div></div>
I kinda thought that looked like a powder puff load..
Sorry to bump an old thread but I was doing some searching and found this thread. Is the ogive actually below the case mouth with this load? Im loading up a ladder in new Winchester brass with H1000 and 208 amaxs 71.5-76 in .5 increments. At 71.5 you can hear the powder crunch already. I loaded one with 76gr and the damn bullet stuck in the seating die. Im using a powder drop tube on my funnel and even tapped it on the bench before seating the bullet. Case length is 2.616ish and Im using forster ultra dies.
Just looks weird to me but that's 3.34 COL
You can actually see the gap between the ID of the case mouth and the bullet
Its late and Im probably missing something here.
Just looks weird to me but that's 3.34 COL
You can actually see the gap between the ID of the case mouth and the bullet
Its late and Im probably missing something here.
ummm, no I am at 3.600" COAL with 208's/win brass/215's and 76.5 H1000 in my Sako TRG,
3.340" might be COAL for a 150/180soft point or some short bullet like that?
3.340" might be COAL for a 150/180soft point or some short bullet like that?
Every manual Ive got(Nosler, Hornady, Speer, Berger, Sierra and Barnes) have 3.34 for listed as the COL for every bullet except for some of the really short bullets. After reading around on here it seems that maybe the 3.34 is for feeding from the factory mag and most seem to be running them around 3.6. Later today Im going to actually measure the lands. Seems like these books are damn near useless, I keep finding stuff wrong with them or the powder charges are ultra conservative.
.300 Win Mag/208 A-Max. H-1000 or Retumbo?
How did you measure the Ogive? Those are crammed WAY too deep.
EDIT: Never mind. It looks like you are measurement from the tip of the bullet which is quite a ways from the Ogive. You need a special tool to measure from the Ogive. Hornady sells them.
https://m.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-Comparator-Set-Body-and-14-Bullet-Inserts-1-Each/
How did you measure the Ogive? Those are crammed WAY too deep.
EDIT: Never mind. It looks like you are measurement from the tip of the bullet which is quite a ways from the Ogive. You need a special tool to measure from the Ogive. Hornady sells them.
https://m.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-Comparator-Set-Body-and-14-Bullet-Inserts-1-Each/
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That still doesn't explain why the books show 3.34COL. I haven't seen a book yet that list ogive length. Ive got a hornady comparator set and can measure ogive, obviously not with the ogive crammed inside the case mouth. It just baffles me why the books show 3.34 COL when that obviously is not a workable COL for the cartridge and bullet. On polymer tipped bullets I don't worry too much about measuring to ogive as theyre usually pretty consistent and using a good micrometer seating die keeps length to ogive pretty consistent. The OTM type bullets I measure to ogive due to inconsistent tips.
Later today Ill actually measure the lands and load them .01 off the lands to start. I know bergers don't like to jump much but Ive had good luck with the amaxs jumping on my 308 178 amax load. I see some people jam the 208s and other hold off a little. After some additional searching it seems my ladder may be loaded a little light. Ill probably just do a second round of ladder testing with some higher charge weights as this is my first time loading for this caliber.
Later today Ill actually measure the lands and load them .01 off the lands to start. I know bergers don't like to jump much but Ive had good luck with the amaxs jumping on my 308 178 amax load. I see some people jam the 208s and other hold off a little. After some additional searching it seems my ladder may be loaded a little light. Ill probably just do a second round of ladder testing with some higher charge weights as this is my first time loading for this caliber.
I use H1000. Not only have I had good results and its stable with temp, but its also everywhere on the shelves!
Just saw this thread got some CPR.
Update on mine. My load is 76.5 grains H-1000 with the 208. Getting 2945 fps and pretty good accuracy.
Update on mine. My load is 76.5 grains H-1000 with the 208. Getting 2945 fps and pretty good accuracy.
My rifle is a 26" factory 5R. I measured the lands at 3.64, any suggestions on where to start my COL?
I would start in the lands with 74gn of H1000 and work up in .5 increments till I saw pressure then stop. Most find accuracy around 75.5-76.5 even some like the higher node around 77-78. The A-max is some what like a VLD it needs to be in the lands rather than chasing an over all length with a shorter one.
I jump mine about 0.020". You can play with to find out what works best. I've had good luck with jumping them.
Ive got the first rounds loaded to 3.54 and 71.5-76 in .5 increments. Sounds like I probably ought to pull the 71.5 through 73 and flip those to the higher charge weights. I made that ladder before I started searching on the internet and was just going off the now retarded it seems hornady book for COL and the berger book for 210gr charge weight since hornady doesnt list H1000 for the 208s.
I started out at 74 gr and it worked well. I wouldn't settle for a smaller charge. Need to still do an OCW though.
Guess I need to read up on the OCW stuff again. Seems like I remember it not being much different than the normal ladder test. Right now im just trying to get a good load to verify its a good shooter before I drop the money on getting the stock inletted for DBM, barrel threaded and some bolt work.
Supposidly its a bit easier to read results at 100 yards. The creator of it, Dan, is a member here, maybe he'll weigh in.
I read his site about a year ago but have forgotten most of it by now. I wont be running this gun til next weekend so I've got some time to read. Need to find me a pad for my shoulder now though. My shoulder was sore enough running 50 rounds of 308 in an hourish, 50rds of 300wm is going to hurt. Once I verify its a shooter I'll get it threaded for my can.
Looks like at 76.5 or 77 Im going to have a compressed load in this Winchester brass. Is that what everyone else is seeing? I pulled my lower weight charges and flipped them to the high end so I will have 73.5-78 in .5 increments. Going into a compressed load with that relatively large jump in charge makes me a bit nervous when Im looking at a compressed charge. This is loaded at 3.64, lands are at 3.65 on my gun.
Just looks awful full, this is with a powder drop tube extension on my funnel
Just looks awful full, this is with a powder drop tube extension on my funnel
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Looks like at 76.5 or 77 Im going to have a compressed load in this Winchester brass. Is that what everyone else is seeing? I pulled my lower weight charges and flipped them to the high end so I will have 73.5-78 in .5 increments. Going into a compressed load with that relatively large jump in charge makes me a bit nervous when Im looking at a compressed charge. This is loaded at 3.64, lands are at 3.65 on my gun.
Just looks awful full, this is with a powder drop tube extension on my funnel
yes they are a little full,it looks like new brass?if so the second time around there will be a bit more room.
you'll want to just bump the shoulder back .002-.003 on the next go around.
when you start to see pressure on your testing STOP and pull the rest. i'm guessing 77.5 is going to start to show real pressure
if this is a stock barrel, be safe and take good notes.
Honestly im beginning to find the hornady book sucks. So far the berger book has been the best for indepth powder info.
Yes new winchester. Ive got the forster neck sizer die to try. I use the lee collet on my 308 that works well. It is a factory fresh 26" remington 5R barrel. These rounds are basically to get the barrel settled in and see about hwere powder is going to be. Then I'll switch to some BHAs 1x fired I've got since I have 300 of them. Also have 250 norma but I'm going to hold off on them for a while til Im a bit more cconfident loading for this cartridge. Main thing is deciding how much to hold it off the lands. Seems everyone does something different from .03 off the lands to jammed. Right noe my loads are set ip for .01 off.
do they feed from the mag? if not you may want to work with them at a working mag length if thats a need for you,
might save you some time and components, cuz the load at .010 off my be the hot ticket then when you go to stuff them in the mag
it's a no go, then shoving the bullet back to fit may cause pressure and or shoot bad. just a thought
Yeah, just barely though...
After I verify its a shooter it will be torn down and threaded, with some bolt work and a DBM so COL really shouldn't be a problem then. Just don't want to drop the cash just yet til I know its a shooter.
In my factory sendaro .300wm i have best accuracy with the hornady 208 bthp .030 off. the 230 bergers are just as good for accuracy .030 off. the 208 amax isn't as accurate or i haven't found the sweepspot yet. I am using H 1000 at 2850 fps
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Great info anyone using H4350 its around right now and I thing it should work. The 208's are hard to find may have to shoot Bergers
Figured Id give a little update on the load I settled on. I ran all the way up to 78.4gr of H1000 in Winchester brass. Out of my 26" barrel the difference in fps between 77.4 and 78.4 was a whopping 20fps so Im assuming I just ran out of barrel besides quite a bit of muzzle smoke. Never really showed any bad pressure signs though, only slight ejector marks at 77.6 and above. 77.6 seemed to be my accuracy node so I loaded up 77.4, 77.6 and 77.8 to double check. In those three charges I also loaded .01, .02 and .03 off the lands. All charges showed better accuracy at .03 off the lands. 77.4 and .03 seems to be the ticket in my factory 5R and gets me an average of 2917 with low single digit SDs. Ive only got about 140 rounds down the pipe so Im hoping it might settle in a little more like my 308 5R did. The flyer to the right was me but even with it, the group is still below 3/4", without the flyer its a hair over 1/2" which to me for a factory barreled gun isn't too bad.
Thanks for the suggestions when I was getting started. Its crazy how much case capacity I gained after the first firing. The cases must come way undersized from the factory.
One odd thing I did notice is that in a five shot group 2 shots would group right on top of each other, then another two shots would group right in on top of each other but about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch away with the fifth mixed somewhere in there. Not quite sure what the deal is with that but regardless I believe Ive found a good load. Im taking it out to 300 next weekend to verify.
Does anyone think its really worth it accuracy wise to switch to federal or norma brass? Ive got 300 once fired federal and 250 brand new norma I can use. Obviously the charge will have to be adjusted but am I really going to notice much accuracy difference with them? It runs pretty good with this cheap brass Im afraid to screw with it.
Thanks for the suggestions when I was getting started. Its crazy how much case capacity I gained after the first firing. The cases must come way undersized from the factory.
One odd thing I did notice is that in a five shot group 2 shots would group right on top of each other, then another two shots would group right in on top of each other but about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch away with the fifth mixed somewhere in there. Not quite sure what the deal is with that but regardless I believe Ive found a good load. Im taking it out to 300 next weekend to verify.
Does anyone think its really worth it accuracy wise to switch to federal or norma brass? Ive got 300 once fired federal and 250 brand new norma I can use. Obviously the charge will have to be adjusted but am I really going to notice much accuracy difference with them? It runs pretty good with this cheap brass Im afraid to screw with it.
Good thread. Those loads do seem short.My COAL's on 208's in a TRG 42 were 3.665. I went 2.945 to the Ogive which put me .01 off the lands (using the Hornady). That seems pretty in line with a lot of guys I see saying they use a COAL of 3.65 w/ 208's to be 10 thou jump
H1000 in RWS Brass under an Amax 208 rock up north too. I will be playing with a new 300WM, and keep toying with the notion of trying H4831sc, but its hard when the H1000 worked so well in my previous stick.
I don't think you'll like H-4831sc. I tried it in my 338WM, & found the powder takes up a lot more volume by weight. I think you'll run out of case before you get where you want to be. I have run both H-Retumbo, & H-1000, in my 300WM with 208's, 225's, & now 230's, & have settled on H-1000. Cleaner burning, & H-1000 also seems to be a denser powder than Retumbo, allowing more weight in the case before I start crunching powder. My 208 load was running @ 2950, & now my 230 load is running 2901 out of a 28" 1:10" tw Krieger. YMMV
Rem 700P stock 26" barrel
AAC 762SDN-6
208 AMAX
WW-SUPER not virgin
78.5gr H1000
CCI magnum primer
.030 jump = 3.632"
I get about 2950fps from this load, and 1/2MOA accuracy. It is VERY hot so your rifle may not tolerate it. I DO NOT recommend this load for anyone without working up to it. I guess my barrel is slow, because I was able to get to that upper node but still be under 3000fps with only flat primers and no other pressure signs.
I tried RL22 and H4832SC while working up loads for this rifle and neither were as accurate as H1000.
That 208 at 2950 really hammers the gong!
AAC 762SDN-6
208 AMAX
WW-SUPER not virgin
78.5gr H1000
CCI magnum primer
.030 jump = 3.632"
I get about 2950fps from this load, and 1/2MOA accuracy. It is VERY hot so your rifle may not tolerate it. I DO NOT recommend this load for anyone without working up to it. I guess my barrel is slow, because I was able to get to that upper node but still be under 3000fps with only flat primers and no other pressure signs.
I tried RL22 and H4832SC while working up loads for this rifle and neither were as accurate as H1000.
That 208 at 2950 really hammers the gong!
anyone have a suggested start load for Retumbo in Federal GI brass and the 208gr? 27.75" barrel.
