yea just that one berger load. I typed it all out on my phone and got too lazy to go back and change the first sentence then forgot to edit it on my computer. that load actually runs better with the 2.800 COAL but I wanted to try what I saw on Johnny's Reloading BenchYou sure about that?
if i have to i will . i have yet to try a bullet thats is more that 120gr , could not get them to move .maybe 140's will?? .really did not get the gun to be shooting 140's would rather like to keep it no more than 120's.
If the rounds are fed from a magazine they all get a light crimp, 6.5cm, .308. 300bo, regardless of bullet weight.
I use Hornady exclusively in my 6.5cm, the ELD-M for target and the 153 A-TIP for hogs, neither have a cannelure. I give them all just a light bump for a crimp. When I hunt hogs with my Marlin 1895 45-70, they get a firm crimp because of the re-coil.
)
Knurled grooves)
Smooth groove
I found that if your neck tension is over .002”, no crimp is needed. I believe crimping is detrimental to accuracy.
SAMI is 62,000. CIP is like 63,090. An AR-10 shouldn't require any reduction in pressure like some M1A's do for 308. Adjustable gas is a must have.
Glad to hear you are both feeling better. Never been on a cruise and never will be.Gonna try and Shoot tomorrow . Wife & I just got back from 28 day Alaska vacation . Now for the most part WONDERFUL .
Cruise ship up NEVER EVER AGAIN !. Had to Jump ship check into Hospital and insist on IV's of Remdesivir ,followed by #5 days of Paxlovid . We were both healthy without any illness ( Me 44 Years without a sniffle ,not a cold flu Nothing ) ,ship was too Big too many Ornamental's from Country of origin . The 4 Th. day felt like Death . After 8 days of IV's oral drugs felt Much much better ,so we resumed our planned excursions . Including MY 6 day 7 night Fishing trip . Holy Chit have prices gone UP !!.
Will be around now we're back , carry on .
I agree wholeheartedly with exception to certain ports which are prohibitive too fly into because of cost . Greece ,Mediterranean, Italy being a few . Some hotels are akin to armed robbery . Yet generally I agree fly stay enjoy what interests you and then Leave .
I found this info but assumed it was for a bolt gun. Are you saying that we can run 6.5CM up to 62k without issue? I think I'm just a tick over 60k with 40.9g of H4350 under a 147ELDM. Getting 2718fps with a SD of 8.7 and an ES of 27, jumping 130 thou. Getting some swipes on the case head, (Hornady brass), and some slight cratering of the CCI 200 primers. Still fine tuning my load, I'd like to keep it in the low 2700's and that's were I'm at on a 95* 4000' DA day.
On a new build I just fire a few factory loads. De-prime the fired cases, light file the head to remove any ejector burr, & measure the shoulder datum with a comparator. FL size to set shoulders back .002" from the fired cases.Does anyone have a good explanation on how to find the shoulder bump properly on a gas gun bolt? I take the ejector and the firing pin out of my bolt actions to find shoulder bump, I’m just not sure the proper way to do the same with a gas gun. Thx
Essentially that is what I have done in the past, I am starting with virgin peterson brass and have plenty of fired brass, just not out of this gun. I am curious if there was a way to “feel” a case shoulder bump in a gas gun?
It's a GOOD practice ,as is 0.020" bullet jump , especially in Gas Guns . BR Guns sure 0.005 or less is acceptable . Bad things can happen in a Jump and shake AR scenario ,so NOT so good an idea .
Words wisely put, Understanding is key, follow through is Crucial.
I use two methods ,first two spent cases from MY chamber measuring all aspects . Then using a Comparator gauge with a typical style bullet I'd use . Carefully insert into chamber lock comparator down and withdraw it then Measure it with calipers.Words wisely put, Understanding is key, follow through is Crucial.
My 6 Smasher (dasher) was my ticket to understanding the one stop shop. I maintain order, follow process the same, and maintain a consistent order in my stage to stage process. My used cases go from case prep, the ingredients in the ss tumbler too the time it spins, a proven science. I’ll go fourth and run an entire batch 300-500x the same. My press process is unfuckwithable (drop powder, seat projo, perhaps inspect every 5-10,20) I have other processes like neck mandrel etc..I appreciate your advice and will try and find my lands on this budget build 65ar… my original question reiterated is “ How did you find your .020” jump? “
I had to put a little work in for this one… I stayed focused lol. Using a fired case I drilled and tapped (lathe) the primer pocket for my o.a.l. tool gauge, modified the case neck to allow manageable neck tension. I have never really had accurate numbers with that tool in my bolt guns in the past but it def exceeded my expectations on this job. Thanks for your time and attention to this matter, bamf like you keep me inspired
I had to put a little work in for this one… I stayed focused lol. Using a fired case I drilled and tapped (lathe) the primer pocket for my o.a.l. tool gauge, modified the case neck to allow manageable neck tension. I have never really had accurate numbers with that tool in my bolt guns in the past but it def exceeded my expectations on this job. Thanks for your time and attention to this matter, bamf like you keep me inspired
Yes, In the past I had found the spent case from the chamber (when drilled/tapped for my gauge) had a neck tension that was to loose to properly hold the projo without it slipping, getting stuck, inaccuracy. I had an extra 65cm case made up from a previous rifle, a decade ago when the cm debuted… found that sucker and modified it sense I’ve no experience with the factory hornady production caliber cases for their oal gauge. This modified case was FL sized and after the slit was cut, de burred,I ran a neck mandrel of .003” nt, verified concentricity.. surprisingly the projo never once got stuck in the bbl! I had repeatable readings everytime, and this case now works awesome for setting up my seating die when changing projos!I used to slit the neck of the case but found inaccurate readings do too slippage of tension . So MY cases are neck turned so as to make sure cartridge is centered in the chamber . I'm not 100% certain it's necessary but did two cases for each of My chambers in various calibers . I correctly bump shoulders 0.002" for Measurement purposes only and squeeze turned necks 0.002" also for bullet tension .
Seems to work for ME ,as bullet tends to stay inside the case and not stuck in the lands. I also use a swab of LU708 Sprayon PTFE dry film lube inside MY chamber and throat Lede .
Not unlike yourself ,I also chucked up cases in My Lathe turned necks and drilled primer pockets with a 7.30mm bit ,so as to get a properly tapped straight hole ,for that 5/16"x 36 ,which is an odd duck .
I seem to be getting consistent measurements ,so must have done something correctly
With a Faxon barrel? You're already shitting in high cotton at less than an inch. And I wouldn't jam bullets in an AR, probably not a good idea.
I agree, less than an inch is pretty damned good. I doubt you’ll improve much more in a gas gun unless it’s a high dollar match rifle. Load, shoot, and be happy!
