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6.5 creedmoor or 338 Lapua?
- Thread starter Studio3
- Start date
You're a jerk and this isn't the right place for that thread.
I’m $2,800 into a pretty solid all-round fun build.
- Tikka T3X CTR, stainless action & barrel
- KRG Bravo chassis
- used Vortex Razor 2 from this site
- Seekins rings
No gunsmithing. Just screw the action into the chassis and mount the scope. Tikka guarantees sub-MOA 3 shot groups. Taking the action out of a poly stock and putting it in a chassis can’t make that any worse. It’s short and light enough to hunt with and shoots great.
I think it’s the first gun I’ve ever thought is ‘comfortable’ to shoot. It’s really nice... actually a softer impulse than my AR even shooting in weird positions.
- Tikka T3X CTR, stainless action & barrel
- KRG Bravo chassis
- used Vortex Razor 2 from this site
- Seekins rings
No gunsmithing. Just screw the action into the chassis and mount the scope. Tikka guarantees sub-MOA 3 shot groups. Taking the action out of a poly stock and putting it in a chassis can’t make that any worse. It’s short and light enough to hunt with and shoots great.
I think it’s the first gun I’ve ever thought is ‘comfortable’ to shoot. It’s really nice... actually a softer impulse than my AR even shooting in weird positions.
I think he's gone... and I dont think you're doing tikka any favors.
If Taco Bell sold rifles, I guarantee they wouldn’t get three shits in a 1” circle @ 100.
Tikka would. Guaranteed.
I’m considering getting into ball busting slowly.
Would you guys suggest some light flogging, or letting Justin Tucker kick me in the balls?
Would you guys suggest some light flogging, or letting Justin Tucker kick me in the balls?
Buddly. That bad ass mother fucker will kick you harder than a teenager who accidentally opens his first pop up window
Just jump in the deep end and get to enjoy someone using "Animal husbandry" tools on you and everything else will seem like child's play.
‘Yeah he’s the real deal. Got more animal kills, bench presses more iron, and destroys more... well you know!
Well, now that you’ve all had your fun, there were a couple of legitimate responses worth replying to. First I had no idea I was replying to my own post but maybe I should given some of the shitty bullying going on in here but that’s ok I got broad shoulders. Yes I have done a lot of research between the two and yes I know there is s big difference. I wanted opinions on if it was worth buying the bigger round for what I wanted to do. Yes I know barrel life is shorter etc.... I was hoping on some legitimate discussion with what I thought were pro adult guys. Guess I was wrong on a few of you.
i decided on the Ruger Gen 3 6.5creedmoor. I’ll get used to it with its existing parts and then start the upgrade.
As a glut for punishment I’m wondering about the NF 7x35 f1 or f2? I don’t know a lot about the focal planes. Which reticle is good for just shooting steel and paper? Hopefully I asked intelligent questions this time
I'm sorry your first question was illegitimate. Good choice on going for the 6.5. Get the F1 and dont look back. There arent many uses for a second focal plane scope. Do your research on what reticle you'll like and the rest will fall into place.
Congrats for having the stones to came back in here, admittedly we can be a little coarse in here, but that is the way we like it.
Now, the RPR in 6.5 CM is a reasonable gateway drug, look for a used vortex PST gen II and spend the rest of your budget on ammo and quality range time.
Trigger time is more important than cool stuff at this stage of the game.
Now, the RPR in 6.5 CM is a reasonable gateway drug, look for a used vortex PST gen II and spend the rest of your budget on ammo and quality range time.
Trigger time is more important than cool stuff at this stage of the game.
We do like to have fun around here and sometimes that comes at the expense of others, but stick around a while. You'll likely learn to love us or maybe just hate us, either way you'll learn a bunch in the process and there are some great resources here. Good choice on starting rifle by the way.
Almost everyone on this site will tell you to go F1(first focal plane). Second focal plane is fine for paper punching or hunting at shorter distances, but beyond that first focal is a huge advantage for everything else.
Reticles are something you need to pick your own. Most here prefer .2 mil marks on the horizontal for wind holds, but past that reticles are completely person preference. Go with your gut instinct when you first look at each reticle as your first impression is usually right.
get a case or two of Prime 6.5 Creedmoor Ammo, good quality brass for reloading your RPR Creedmoor- older version of Prime 6.5 creed shot well across a variety of platforms, have no doubt the current manufacture will do the same.
The reticle is the tough choice. I don’t know what I would like. More info mean more clutter? I wear bifocals but assume there is a focus adjustment as well. I appreciate the insight on the F1. My first thought with the F2 was I understand the reticle stays the same size? I’m guessing you guys don’t care about that so maybe I shouldn’t. I won’t be lugging this thru the woods and only shooting paper and steel for fun.
I don’t plan on reloading. I’m told really good factory Ammo from Hornady is quite good?
I’m hearing MRAD? Is that the way to go and if so is it in the NF?
@Studio3
Understand that you are asking the questions that get asked every week. Of course we are a bunch of jackasses so we like to have our fun as well.
You should really spend some time looking the the scope section and studying a little bit. If not you are simply setting yourself up for another round of similar treatment as you got concerning the caliber choice. Not that there is anything wrong with that as you will be mocked and that is part of the initiation process....
here, read this and then come back with questions:
www.snipershide.com
Understand that you are asking the questions that get asked every week. Of course we are a bunch of jackasses so we like to have our fun as well.
You should really spend some time looking the the scope section and studying a little bit. If not you are simply setting yourself up for another round of similar treatment as you got concerning the caliber choice. Not that there is anything wrong with that as you will be mocked and that is part of the initiation process....
here, read this and then come back with questions:
So you want to Buy a New Rifle Scope
Follow Sniper's Hide and pick up the latest information on all things precision rifle related. Sniper's Hide Training is for the serious tactical marksman.
www.snipershide.com
Oh, WTF??? You can't go there until he chooses scope brand.
I have the mil-xt reticle in my nf 5-25. I think it’s a great all around reticle. It does have holdover marks for each mil if elevation, but it isn’t too cluttered. Most here will recommend mrad over moa, and first focal plane over second. First focal plane the reticle stays the same size relative to the target, so your sub tensions are correct regardless of magnification. Second focal plane the reticle appears to stay the same size, but actually changes size relative to the target when magnification changes. That’s not advantageous for this type of shooting.
The 7-35 nf is a great scope, and good choice on the caliber.
The 7-35 nf is a great scope, and good choice on the caliber.
I’m trying to keep up. I’m pretty set on the NF 7x35 now adding F1 to the list. Now to have help finishing up the details of reticle and MRAD vs MOA? I’m open for your experience and suggestion. I currently have a mega arms AR 15 with Adams gas piston and acog 4x32 bac. I guess that kinda was the reason I was asking about a bolt gun with gas piston. My ignorance knew no better. Looking for least recoil. I appreciate your guidance and experience.
Thanks for the info. Does the NF have MRAD as an option I’m on my phone and not googling right now.
ATACR™ 7-35x56 F1
If there is such a thing as a “professional” riflescope, it is an ATACR™. They are designed for military, law enforcement, and other tactical professionals…and for those who simply want to shoot like a professional. An ATACR™ riflescope is the combination of the finest materials, engineering...
I’m devastated by how quickly this thread derailed, but found its way back on its tracks. Just devastated.
What are your thought on the Mil-XT and or the tremor? Tremor looks like it might be confusing or a nice learning curve. I guess a possible dumb question is why do you need all the marks in a reticle if your dialing in your range and Windage with the zero stop feature. Here is my newness to the tech.
Ok, not to be a prick but the AR with an ACOG has nothing to do with precision shooting so don't even bring that up...
You're gonna hear a thousand reasons why MRAD vs MOA and which is better. Go ahead an do yourself a favor, buy a MRAD scope and learn to use it. No questions, no debates, just do it. You can thank me later for pushing you in this direction.
Reticle is a personal choice but understand that you are going to dial elevation and hold wind. Most find the Horus or Tremor reticles too "busy" and use some sort of "Xmas tree" type reticle that gives you holding points for wind and elevation (if needed) and still maintains enough open space to spot your own shots. If you are stuck on NF you the new Mil XT reticle seems to be a favorite.
Patience grasshopper. We still have plenty of time for the twist ending...
I only mentioned the AR since I shoot it out around 200yds. Not completely green to shooting rifles. Anyway. What’s comparable here with NF? Not necessarily stuck on NF just heard from others and gun shops it was one of the best for the money and quality. If I can buy the same or better cheaper I’m all ears. Thx guys
?????? I do play with myself and quite enjoy it in shooting and non-shooting activities. The more inches the better!Then he should be playing with himself and doing other activities, non shooting related!
Nightforce is very good. If you are in that dollar range you should also be looking at Schmidt & Bender, Kahles, and Zero Compromise. I believe there is a list is the scope section that can help you out. Tangent Theta might fit your budget as well depending on the model.
