A crash course on loading?

[isofahunter]

I ran out of checks this month, so I can't pay you.

Maybe in Feburary?

Wide open right now.

 

[Devildog]

I skimmed over the comments here so if this has already been said then disregard. if you buy a basic RCBS rock crusher kit it’ll come with the basic tools you need and a manual you can review. You tube has a lot of good videos on reloading if you don’t like to read, a few I like is Erik Cortina, Gavin Toobe are just a few.

Next you‘ll want to know about load development for a small fee you can hire someone like Dan Newberry, he created the OCW method of load development. Trust me it’s cheap and he’s a wealth of knowledge and a good guy. I believe Erik Cortina overs a similar service you’ll just have to check the websites.

Good luck, it’s a process the reward is better ammo for your rifle if you put in the time to learn.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Be careful about open forum responses for new reloaders. Most of these folks went straight to get a manual....good advice. I always have 2-4 current books plus Quick Load. That said, the real value of the manual is it is showing you a well vetted process.

What you see posted or in many videos online is a modified technique. Some are dangerous. How I’ll you know as a new reloader?

Everybody likes to show the blown up guns...those are the result of a complete and total screw up like wrong powder. When you blow up a bolt gun as shown above, that isn’t 70000 psi....more like 120000psi. If you are reloading for rifle with proper powders and techniques, you are more nicely to setback your lugs. Who has a no-go gauge to see that? This is especially worrisome in lever guns and some single shots. So approach max loss with caution, understanding pressure signs, etc. Understand pressure signs are your action talking to you. Pressure signs are your action or barrel bending. Setback is your action yielding or deforming permanently(gun is now a tomato stake. If you continue to use, it will blow up at safe pressure.)

You are better off finding a mentor in person or even an online mentor that you PM in addition to open forum posts. Open forum posts can be confusin. People answer with what sounds like a standard answer that a deeper dive would tell us a unique set of conditions that only apply to them.

 

[Aftermath]

1. Like MANY have stated, purchase at least one reloading manual. I really suggest several. I like the Sierra in binder form so pages can be added, my notes for a particular round. I like Berger because Brian Litz. I like RCBS becaue they are like 250 yards from my back door. Nosler. Even most of the gunpowder manufacturers have decent literature.
2. STUDY
3. Find a local accurate rifle shooter that reloads. Be his/her/its friend. Ask to see their set up and ask questions. Invite them to your AO.
4. Ignore those that suggest starting out with low end gear. Start with the best you can afford. After Step 2, you should have a real good idea of what you are going to need. There are some good lists already posted, see post number 30. By reading some interweb forum bullshit, you should be able to glean the valuable information from the chaff. When in doubt, discuss with your new friend from #3.
5. STUDY
6. Reload and shoot.
7. If accuracy is lacking, restart at step 2.

Be ready to spend some money. This is definitely not an inexpensive hobby/sport.
Be ready to spend some time. Reloading the most accurate ammunition you are capable of should not be something you cut corners on or attempt to do on a timer. I see/hear guys all the time saying they loaded so many rounds in an hour and I just think...it's not some sort of fucking race for number of rounds reloaded, it's a "race" to see how many x's (bulls-eye's) you can SHOOT.
Be meticulous and methodical with EVERYTHING. Write it all down, ALL of it. Think of your most hated science class and remember EVERYTHING that teacher told you about the Scientific Method and note taking.

 

[BoltBandit]

I thought about that, but I kind of wanted to have the comments from the guys who aren't all about reading all the time.... It's not about being lazy, anyone who continually replies to posts is obviously not bothered by putting some time into it. It's about there being so many opinions and what the basics actually consist of.... There's many folks here who have given me excellent information, which is what I wanted. I just don't really understand folks going to the trouble of typing a reply and reading a thread, then bitching about the question being asked as if they don't have time for it....

Reloading is a broad topic and one thing I haven't seen mentioned (didn't read all the replies, sorry if I missed this) is that reloading techniques vary as much as shooting techniques depending on application. A pistol shooter is fine to reload on a progressive loader, using a powder throw, not cleaning primer pockets, blah blah blah. On the other hand, a precision rifle shooter is going to hand weigh every charge, making sure there all the same to at least 0.1 grains. Not plus or minus, but exactly to the 0.1 grain. We do stuff like annealing brass, cleaning primer pockets,etc. Bench rest guys go to even more extremes, sorting brass by weight and volume, sorting projectiles by weight and length, etc. etc.......

First you need to determine what application you're loading for so you can determine your equipment needs. Get a general knowledge of reloading and trickle down from there. As with most hobbies, cost is however far you want to go down the rabbit hole. You're question is far to broad to really be appropriately answered and no offense to the guys here, there are professional writers who have made some really well written books that can explain the process in far better detail than a forum.

As I said before, get a general knowledge of reloading, determine your reloading needs and application, and use the forums more as a way to fine tune your skills.

 

[CNC-Dude]

I have a 15 minute course, PM me for details.

That must be the "crash" course! LOL

 

[Forward543]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DD96CuN901Kk&ved=2ahUKEwiA15n7-83uAhVdPn0KHXwbAKEQ3e4CMAJ6BAgCEBE&usg=AOvVaw0L68jCdM672u_A8__bfLHR

This is a good intro. The rest of the series is also worth while. This is not exactly my method, but close and Scott understands what he is up to.

 

[padom]

These are very good places to start. Once you have watched and read and started and have specific questions post them up and Id be glad to help.

Elfster's Rifles and Reloading VIDEO SERIES! for 6.5 creedmoor, 6.5 grendel, 9mm, 308, and 223! Enjoy :)

My latest addition to the series in one single video.. with no words: I’m not showing you how to reload. I'm only showing you how “I” reload. Check out my channel here & subscribe! YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8MG_tQBwBWt-m5EyvxMtNw Facebook...

www.snipershide.com

Reloading 101: Reloading basics for the new reload

Reloading Basix: After helping quite a few folks recently getting set up for reloading I decided to put my thoughts on paper. Here is my spin on how to turn out good quality ammunition for precision/tactical rifle at minimum cost and minimum fuss. The steps I use are ones that make me feel...

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[Aescobar17]

Anybody got half an hour to spare? I'd like to learn how to fly an airplane.

I can teach you to fly no problem. You’re on your own with the landing!

 

[308pirate]

I can teach you to fly no problem. You’re on your own with the landing!

That's OK, I actually got my single engine land in 1997...……...the syllabus did include landings.

 

[bax]

Would anyone be so kind as to give us noobs to loading, a step by step of the process, as well as the gear it takes to do that process correctly?

It would nice if a ballpark figure of what kind of money it would take to get started too.

It would be nice if there was some automated set up that was Reliable but from all I've read, you guys don't seem to like that.

Thanks for anyone who will give the time to explain it all.

Start at the end.

You want ammo that fits in the gun, hits what you aim at, and doesn't blow up.

That last one is important so you choose components that don't do that -

• bullets that are the right diameter and weight for your barrel
  • you want 22 caliber bullets for a 22 caliber barrel,
  • a relatively fast twist benefits from a relatively longer and/or heavier bullet
• powder that burns at appropriate speed for your barrel and bullet
• correct primer size and type for your caliber - your manual will tell you.

In order for it to be ammo, it has to have a brass case, a bullet, powder (propellant) and a primer and they have to be assembled correctly and precisely.

In order to shoot stuff, you need bullets, in brass cases that contain powder and primers.

In order for the bullet to streak down range, you need powder. The powder charge has to be measured precisely. At the beginning plus or minus 0.1 grain is fine. Later you may want to improve your tolerances. My precision stuff is plus or minus 0.02 grain.

The bullet and powder have to fit into a brass case. Fired brass cases have to be resized. Firing a round expands the case to the size of the chamber. If you don't resize it, you may not be able to shove it into the chamber and, more importantly, the bullet will probably fall out of the case. So, you need to resize the case. It is easier to resize clean cases.

So now we are at the beginning. You have dirty fired cases.

• This will all go easier if you have a loading block to hold your cases. Buy one.
• If you want clean cases, buy a tumbler and media. Throw your fired cases in there and tumble for an hour.
• Now you have clean cases and you need to resize them. For that you need a press, a full length sizing die and shellholder that matches your weapon and cases, and some lube. At this stage of your experience, follow manufacturers instructions to adjust your die. Buy some lube, I happen to use Imperial. Size your cases. Your book will provide some guidance.
• Depending on the press type, you may be able to use your press to insert primers. Seat primers shiny side out. When you are done, check to be sure that you didn't skip any. I use a separate priming tool bought from Sinclair. I have also used a Lee tool and an RCBS tool - damn near everything except a hammer. Don't pound on your primers, it is exciting when they go off.
• now you need to put powder into the case. You need some kind of scale to measure the powder, a thingy to put the powder into (like this), and (maybe) a funnel to guide the powder from the thingy into the case. Use the manual to pick a powder type and charge amount; start with the beginning charge not the max. Pay attention - every case gets one charge, not zero, not two. Now you have charged cases.
• now you have to seat bullets. For this you need the press, shellholder, a seater die, and a dial or digital caliper to make sure that the length is right. The die instructions and your book will tell you how to adjust the die. I usually start seating long then adjust the seater stem until the caliper matches the length recommended by the book. Now you have loaded ammo.
• You need to buy ammo boxes to put it in.

So, the list: (assets) reloading manual, loading block, tumbler, press, shellholder, full length sizing die, priming tool, seater die, caliper, ammo boxes. (Consumables) bullets, primers, powder, brass cases, lube, and tumbler media.

Every step here is required: decap and size, prime, charge with powder, and seat bullet. After this, you can go nuts with other stuff but all processes include the basics.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Start at the end.

You want ammo that fits in the gun, hits what you aim at, and doesn't blow up.

That last one is important so you choose components that don't do that -

• bullets that are the right diameter and weight for your barrel
  • you want 22 caliber bullets for a 22 caliber barrel,
  • a relatively fast twist benefits from a relatively longer and/or heavier bullet
• powder that burns at appropriate speed for your barrel and bullet
• correct primer size and type for your caliber - your manual will tell you.

In order for it to be ammo, it has to have a brass case, a bullet, powder (propellant) and a primer and they have to be assembled correctly and precisely.

In order to shoot stuff, you need bullets, in brass cases that contain powder and primers.

In order for the bullet to streak down range, you need powder. The powder charge has to be measured precisely. At the beginning plus or minus 0.1 grain is fine. Later you may want to improve your tolerances. My precision stuff is plus or minus 0.02 grain.

The bullet and powder have to fit into a brass case. Fired brass cases have to be resized. Firing a round expands the case to the size of the chamber. If you don't resize it, you may not be able to shove it into the chamber and, more importantly, the bullet will probably fall out of the case. So, you need to resize the case. It is easier to resize clean cases.

So now we are at the beginning. You have dirty fired cases.

• This will all go easier if you have a loading block to hold your cases. Buy one.
• If you want clean cases, buy a tumbler and media. Throw your fired cases in there and tumble for an hour.
• Now you have clean cases and you need to resize them. For that you need a press, a full length sizing die and shellholder that matches your weapon and cases, and some lube. At this stage of your experience, follow manufacturers instructions to adjust your die. Buy some lube, I happen to use Imperial. Size your cases. Your book will provide some guidance.
• Depending on the press type, you may be able to use your press to insert primers. Seat primers shiny side out. When you are done, check to be sure that you didn't skip any. I use a separate priming tool bought from Sinclair. I have also used a Lee tool and an RCBS tool - damn near everything except a hammer. Don't pound on your primers, it is exciting when they go off.
• now you need to put powder into the case. You need some kind of scale to measure the powder, a thingy to put the powder into (like this), and (maybe) a funnel to guide the powder from the thingy into the case. Use the manual to pick a powder type and charge amount; start with the beginning charge not the max. Pay attention - every case gets one charge, not zero, not two. Now you have charged cases.
• now you have to seat bullets. For this you need the press, shellholder, a seater die, and a dial or digital caliper to make sure that the length is right. The die instructions and your book will tell you how to adjust the die. I usually start seating long then adjust the seater stem until the caliper matches the length recommended by the book. Now you have loaded ammo.
• You need to buy ammo boxes to put it in.

So, the list: (assets) reloading manual, loading block, tumbler, press, shellholder, full length sizing die, priming tool, seater die, caliper, ammo boxes. (Consumables) bullets, primers, powder, brass cases, lube, and tumbler media.

Every step here is required: decap and size, prime, charge with powder, and seat bullet. After this, you can go nuts with other stuff but all processes include the basics.

Wow, thanks man. There's so many folks who have put out videos but it's really hard to know what you really "need" to do vs what you "have" to do and what all you "need" to buy vs what you "have to buy" . This is great and took out a lot of the fluff and endless talking on YouTube. I have a hard time watching those videos anyway. I know a lot of guys had fun with this thread, but I didn't want or expect anyone to teach me how to load on a forum, just what the real nuts and bolts are.

I got a lot of really good info out of this thread and I really do appreciate all of the guys who took the time to write good info here. I would bet that other people appreciate it too.