Gunsmithing A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU PICS

#51
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: craigp40</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've done bedding jobs on several rifles and they all came out quite well. The hardest part that I find to get right is the trimming. What do you use to get the nice clean edges on the bedding just like when GAP or LSR do it? I usually end up chipping it, especially at the end closest to the forend. I know this is strictly cosmetic, but it sucks when you put the work into it and blemish it at the very end. </div></div>

Try putting a layer of tape along the barrel channel. The bedding compound sticks to the tape witch can just be pulled off when done. You really do need to let the compound set up completely before removing the tape however. I started doing this to keep bedding compound off any finished parts of the stock. PITA to get off without damaging finish.
 
#53
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: syme71</div><div class="ubbcode-body">where do you get the bedding screws from? </div></div>

I bought some 3" long 1/4" X 28 bolts from the Depot and cut the heads off with my die grinder. They worked great.
 
#54
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Guys, I did try some of the silicone spray as a release agent.
I sprayed it and let any aerosols gas off. It worked fine. Hell
of a lot cheaper than Brownells Acra Release. I still use the Kiwi too, but the spray is quite a bit quicker.
 
#55
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Actually took some pics during on this one.

For new DIY guys, if you get a stock that has a smaller barrel channel than your current gun and you need to free float here is
another tip you may find helpful. I use a barrel inletting scraper to get it close.

Rem700LAinBC.jpg


But it is extra cash to spend on a tool you may need only once.
Another way is to use your deep well sockets and 60 grit
sandpaper. Works just as good and gives you a nice straight line
on the top edge of the forearm. Used a spark plug socket on this one and it was a perfect fit.

Rem700LAinBC1.jpg


After getting the barrel floated on this B & C Medalist, I saw
the action was setting low in the stock. You can't see it well
in the pic but the ejection port is lower than the stock at the front of the port. This is another reason you use the tape doughnuts on the barrel.

Rem700LAinBC2.jpg


Rem700LAinBC3.jpg


The socket and sandpaper left a nice round channel.

Rem700LAinBC5.jpg


The ejection port at correct height after bedding.

Rem700LAinBC4.jpg
 
#56
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

I thought the aluminum bedding block in the b&c was so you didnt need it bedded? Should you always bed a stock even with an aluminum block?
 
#57
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Remove the screws from your stock while leaving the action in the stock. Does the action move back and forth? The recoil lug and the adjacent areas alone typically bnefit from bedding to remove any torque on those stock screws while the tang area balances what you do to the front.
 
#58
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Remove the screws from your stock while leaving the action in the stock. Does the action move back and forth? The recoil lug and the adjacent areas alone typically bnefit from bedding to remove any torque on those stock screws while the tang area balances what you do to the front. </div></div>

Or try this: with both screws tightened loosen one and if the action moves at all bedding should help (I say it needs bedding if so, but other may differ).

Not all round receivers leave the factory perfectly round.......
 
#60
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

I think the B & C stocks are a good value for the money. I have noticed the block lets the action ride a little low. Regardless,
I bed everything. Like sorbiker said, not all receivers are round, even when they're supposed to be
smile.gif
 
#61
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Actually, 75% of what I learned about bedding, was from Scimitar and 7mmREM. They made it easy to get motivated past the planning stages. Both of them with excellent threads on the subject. The other 25% came from books, magazine articles, glass bed instructions and others.

 
#62
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

How do yo like laminated thumbhole stocks for bolt guns? Like the one for a fn pbr. Hello how are you doing? Hot over here. You will get the mags finally for the 45 soon and a stock for the saiga a folding ACE. Take it out and look at it to see if it is alright supposed to be like new. Take care.
 
#63
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: G21322635</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How do yo like laminated thumbhole stocks for bolt guns? Like the one for a fn pbr. Hello how are you doing? Hot over here. <span style="text-decoration: underline">You will get the mags finally for the 45 soon and a stock for the saiga a folding ACE.</span> Take it out and look at it to see if it is alright supposed to be like new. Take care. </div></div>

Who are you sending this stuff to G2?
 
#67
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

I have never bedded a round bottomed receiver, but there is a Rem 700 and a Sav110 waiting in the shop now.

I hope I can find this inspiring thread when the time comes.

Many things work for release agents for this kind of epoxy project. I use Redding Imperial Die Wax, because it is right there. For Carbon fiber or vacuum chamber work, the release agents get more specific. Boeing tooling often uses Hi-Vac grease.
 
#71
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

I found a new method for attaching the pillars to the action to
bed pillars and action at same time. I was using the tape method
shown earlier in thread. Had an idea and it worked great. I had
used the copper or brass ferrules before when plumbing grease
lines on industrial machines. The 1/4 ferrules or "compression
sleeves" as they are sold by work great. On the following Rem 700
I used the contured pillars sold at Brownells that are curved to
fit the bottom of the action. I cut the pillars a little long with
a hacksaw and faced off with my pillar counterbore. Then I put a
small chamfur on the bottom side. Put the sleeve on a bolt a attach
the pillar. ***NOTE*** Attach the pillars after you sprayed the
action down with release agent!!!!!

It worked great and held the pillars perfectly tight against the action.
I guess it would look better if I didn't go to so much work on a piece
of crap stock. Plywood with fiberglass cloth wrap. Hey...I'm a cheap shit
wink.gif


PlywoodStock002.jpg


PlywoodStock003.jpg


PlywoodStock004.jpg
 
#79
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Where did you buy the silicon spray that you used as a release agent? What brand?

Where do you usually buy the Devcon from?

Do you use any tension method on the action to keep it in place when bedding? (I've seen people use a couple wraps of electrical tape.)
 
#80
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

When I did mine I used Neutral Kiwi wax for the release agent the second time, the first time I used what was supplied in my kit. The second was far superior. You can also use Johnson's floor wax, my only tip on using was is to polish it on the action, any blemishes in the wax will transfer to the bedding material.

You can get devcon from Brownells or Midway USA.

When I did mine, I had no tension holding the action down whatsoever... I let the action "float" in the bedding.

DD
 
#82
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

I use Synlube 1000 Release Agent, made by Hyperlast, much better than waxes or shoe polish and a heck of a lot easier to use. Comes in a 10.5 aresol can, you can do a lot of bedding with one can.

Tom
 
#83
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Yeah, I know you can get it at Midway, I just figured that since Devcon wasn't originally designed for bedding, that their might be a better(cheaper) place to buy it.

Also, hoping to find out where the OP Scimitar gets his silicone spray. Since it's supposedly pretty cheap. Tracking this stuff down can kinda be a pain.
 
#84
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mdesign</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good post!

A guy can save money learning to do things himself as a pillar bedding job by one of the shops can be expensive. Not to mention the satisfaction of learning a new skill.

Always curious about putting the pillar on the bottom of the lug on those actions with an integral lug like the Howa and others. Seems to work but when we bed those that are build like the Rem or Savage, we tape off the bottom of the lug for no contact.

Anyone ever wonder about that? </div></div>

Hi just to answer that question on a remington or savage lug it is not part of the action and will spring a little if it does not have some tape around it but with the Howa the take down screw is in the lug and it is part of the action you can tape the front of it and the sides to allow it to sit naturaly but if you tape underneath it it will allow the screw to apply pressure into the bedding job when it is tensioned down so any lug that has a take down screw in it should always have bedding underneath it to allow a rock solid setup the front and sides can be taped but that is is.
 
#85
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Exactly wild bill. If you don't bed the bottom of the lug on a Howa, why even bed it at all?

I bought some silicon spray at walmart or lowes.

I also used TPS mold release which worked better than the silicone spray and just as good
as the Brownells acra release which works awesome, it's just so damn high.
 
#86
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Is it worth doing on a 700P in .308 win? It already has had some work done to it and gets sub 1" groups. Also do you have to scratch the aluminum blocks for the devcon to adhere to it or can it stay smooth? Thanks in advance.
 
#87
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

If you look at the post in the first page there are 2 700P being done. Well, one 5R
and one old 700P. Same stock same action. I don't sratch the aluminum, I drill shallow
holes with a dremel. If it is bedded correctly I haven't seen many that did not improve.
 
#88
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Do you put release agent/putty in the mag wells/trigger area in the stock?

I usually bed only from the magwell forward and the tang (like on Randy's DIY tutorial), but am thinking about doing the mid part on my Manners I'm bedding tomorrow.....
 
#89
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Hey sobrbiker, i did put clay in the trigger recesses but not up in the mag well or feed lips of the action. Once i had the clay where i wanted it, i gave it a healthy coating clay and all of kiwi neutral polish. I put it everywhere.
 
#91
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

No, I don't put it in the stock. I just use a grinding stone on my dremel to cut it out when it's finished. Filling it up with
clay is a no-no in my opinion. You need somewhere for the extra
goo to go to when you squeeze that action in the stock. If you don't put in enough extra to get the "ooze" you'll wind up getting voids in the bedding.

Potterman, where do you find that Synlube?
 
#92
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scimitar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Exactly wild bill. If you don't bed the bottom of the lug on a Howa, why even bed it at all?

I bought some silicon spray at walmart or lowes.

I also used TPS mold release which worked better than the silicone spray and just as good
as the Brownells acra release which works awesome, it's just so damn high. </div></div>

So, I bought some spray from lowes made by liquid wrench and it didn't work very well at all. Half the bedding stuck to my action... I was really surprised that I was able to remove the action at all...
 
#93
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Some of the sprays do not have enough silicone ration to propellant. I spray it on, rub it out with my finger and buff it with a cloth like the shoe polish. Same way I do the top of my
table saw. After a few preps, the wood glides across the saw
like its on rollers. If I use the silicone spray or the shoe polish I do it like that to make sure I have it applied everywhere.
 
#94
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Hrm, I think I'll stick to the wax from now on. It worked great when I filled in the voids made by switching a badger inlet to a CDI inlet.

I wasn't really able to tell where the silicone was or wasn't. It was too thin for my tastes.
 
#95
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Just sent an email to Slide about their mold releases. Pretty
economical when you buy it by the case. I am still using Kiwi
but I like the time savings when using Brownells Acra Release.
But at 20 bucks a can, ouch. I go through it too quick.
 
#97
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

I think I can get the other sprays for 5-6 a can. That's a deal
compared to the acra release. I love the way Kiwi works put putting it on just takes more time to get it perfect. If you are doing 1-2 firearms than whats the difference. Use Kiwi. I'm getting a case of the slide mold release that they use for epoxy
and I'll try it out and let you know.
 
#98
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Scimitar, or anyone for that matter;

I'm looking for some guidance on how to get a bedding job with zero/minimal bubbles? Espetialy on bottom metal and steep/flat sided recievers?

Also, how do you determine how much inletting is enough?
 
#100
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Salmonaxe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hrm, I think I'll stick to the wax from now on. It worked great when I filled in the voids made by switching a badger inlet to a CDI inlet.

I wasn't really able to tell where the silicone was or wasn't. It was too thin for my tastes. </div></div>

Brownells Acra-Release is by far the best release agent I've used. One can will last you years. I've used wax, Pam, Silicon, etc, none worked as well.
 
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