Gunsmithing A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU PICS

Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Some of that is just practice. As to the bubbles (voids) if you
don't put more than enough bedding material in the stock,
you're gonna get em. It needs to ooze out when you press the
action in. If it doesn't you're most likely going to have a void.

I love the acra release the best so far also, but a can does not last me that long. I always use multiple coats, and may get
4-5 rifles per can. I have used a mold release several years ago
that worked as good as the Brownells, but for the life of me,
can't remember the name. I'm gonna try one of these cans from Slide and let hyou know. A case of the cans for 70 beats the
heck out of one can for 20.
 
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

+1 on the Slide Epoxease. Used it yesterday to bed another
A4 for a custom FN action. Went on quickly, good coverage
without recoating. Action released easily, left good finish.
At a case of 12 cans for around 70 shipped, this beats the
pants off other spray products. Works as well as the Acra
release but 3 1/2 times cheaper. I have used Kiwi time and time
again( when I was out of the Acra-release) but I like the spray
for the time saved and the ease of application.

here's a link
http://www.slideproducts.com/cgi-bin/product.cgi?skucat=406
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU

thanks for the great tutorial! I bought a stock that has been bedded already for the same action and it seems to fit good
except the other action had a larger recoil lug(thicker) than my stock one. would you recomend dremeling it out larger around it, or can i just fill in the void? the void is on the barrel side of the lug.
jesse
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mnjessewi</div><div class="ubbcode-body">thanks for the great tutorial! I bought a stock that has been bedded already for the same action and it seems to fit good
except the other action had a larger recoil lug(thicker) than my stock one. would you recomend dremeling it out larger around it, or can i just fill in the void? the void is on the barrel side of the lug.
jesse </div></div>

Dremel it out in the lug area.
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU

just to check. ive seen it one way and heard it another. are we floating the tang on the savages or are you guys putting bedding material there too? and to be sure we are talking about the same thing, the tang is the rear of the action where the safety is, correct?

also for those of us with just one rifle to bed, how much of the epoxy will we need? are the 2-1 oz tubes enough for a complete action bedding job? thats devcon like midway sells.

also, i am not reccomending this, but on youtube i did see a guy bed a rifle using white lithium grease from an aerosol spray can for a release agent. it worked for him.
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU

Float the tang on Savages, and yes its the rear of the action where the safety is. Four ounces will be plenty, a couple may do fine.


btw, have you shot that thing yet?
laugh.gif
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU

in the first pictures in this thread the savage looks to be bedded at the tang is why i had to ask. is there a reason that the tang isnt supposed to be bedded on a savage? issues with the safety mechanism possibly?


sober i have all my rounds loaded up and i was going out this weekend to test them out... and i got an offer on my barrel today that i am going to take. i promised a new barrel so i cant shoot it now. so i just ordered my wrench and i am ordering my devcon and a stainless nut after i post this. i would have shot it already but my black hills and hornady brass wont neck down in my herters die enough to hold the bullet so i just said screw it and started reloading my Lake City brass. i still have to do something with the necks of all my commercial brass. i know that the brass is thin, and thats why the bullets wont hold, but will the next set of dies be the same? should i get a set of bushing neck sizing dies? these are the questions im asking myself. i bought a lee collet die, but it has a decapper you cant remove and this brass is already primed. so im looking at some dies in the redding group buy, just unsure what to do really. none of the people i know that reload can figure out why the herters wont size it down enough. anyway, i have shot a bunch of other stuff and got a gal from my Jr high to go shooting at a womans sporting clays intro day and possibly take a womens pistol class. but no, not yet man. soon now, very soon. and just for reference i had my CETME for way over a year before i got to shoot it. one thing good, i met a guy on here that goes to the local university and is a member at the range. he said he would get me in as his guest so as soon as spring is here i do plan on shooting every match (one per month) and anytime he wants to go. i m trying man, really i am. popping cans in the back yard with my walther pellet rifle just isnt the same
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU

The first Savage is a closed bottom small port action. Not like a regular Savage action. Float or not on that action. On a regular Savage action, float it behind rear action screw.
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU

thanks sober. devcon has a blister card with 2 1 oz tubes of epoxy in midways catalog. i found them cheap on ebay and ordered 4 packs. should be enough for bedding and stock texture. i ordered my wheeler wrench for the savage barrel from optics planet for $28 and threw in a $4 pack of targets to get it over $30 and qualify for free shipping. sharp shooter supply has $8 wood barrel blocks for your vise. that and a stainless steel nut and i am on my way to either having a sweet stick or a messed up rifle
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU PICS

Has anyone bedded a Howa or other action in a Hogue overmold stock before? I have one right now waiting to bed and the space between the sides of the action and the insides of the stock is basically zero, how do you bed that? Or do you not worry about the sides and just concentrate on the bottom and the lug? Thanks.
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU PICS

Thanks Scimitar! Actually convinced the owner of the Howa to buy a B&C medalist A2 stock so am waiting to bed that one. I just thought that would be the next best thing that would be worth bedding.
smile.gif
 
Re: A few bedding tips (Pic Hvy) Sav,Rem,Howa NU PICS

Used the Epoxease now on several guns. My go-to release agentfrom now on. Unless I am out, then I'll use Kiwi.With this
I am done in seconds.

Aprox 63.14 a case plus shipping.

Call Scot at 770-427-3834. Product number 40616T. Tell him
David said to call. He will hook you up.

Also, the Epoxease last longer. It is made for commercial use
and has about 8% active ingredient. The Brownells spray relese
is non-comercial and has about 3.5% active Ingr. That's why I
am getting more guns done per can. So it is muchhhh cheaper
in the long run. Just spray, let propellant de-gas while you are spreading your bedding material and go at it!
 
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">another good cadidate for a sticky </div></div>

Another vote for "mandatory" sticky! Excellent advise from scimitar and wnroscoe, http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1167022

Followed there advise and it worked perfect for my first bedding project. The stress of the job took a couple years off my life lol, wondering if I was going to epoxy the action to the stock or "F" something up but was well worth it and the rifle shoots outstanding. http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showgallery&Number=1814906#Post1814906

A Huge "Thank You" to scimitar and wnroscoe for taking the time to post there information!
 
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Here is a pic of what I do to the factory McMillan stocks that
have the cutout for the factory DBM for the FN SPR. The way they
cut out the stock makes it difficult for a standard piller so I use two small solid ones.

FNFrontPillars.jpg


FNPillars.jpg


FNPillarbedded.jpg
 
Re: A few more bedding tips (Pic Heavy)

Had an old can of the Slick brand mold release and guess I didn't shake it well. First time in years That I had bedding compound stick to the damn action. If you use any type spray
release, shake the ever living hell out of it for a few minutes
to make sure the realease agent is mixed well with the
propellant.
David
 
New to this great forum guys and found this excellent thread by Scimitar. Reading through it has answered a lot of my questions and backed up others points I have picked up. If I am allowed to resurrect this thread I thought it might be best to ask my questions in here.

I have a few questions regarding Sako L and A series and Howa 1500's which I have Devcon bedded in the past but am rebedding as I have now learned that I should not have taped the bottom of the recoil lug as the bedding screw goes into the lug. Whoops.

Question 1/ Regarding taping the front of the recoil lug.

How high should the tape go on the front of the lug? Just the lower flat area or all the way up to the bottom of the barrel or even up the sides of the barrel on the narrow front surfaces of the receiver?

Question 2/ Regarding taping the sides of the recoil lug.

Would you continue along the flat area of the receiver to the magazine well or just the lug?

Would you just tape up to where the action curves out? Meaning no tape on the curved side of the receiver.

Question 2/ Regarding the rear tang

When taping the sides of the tang how far along the sides should I go? All along or should I stop say halfway so as there is contact at both sides to help keep the tang centred.

Cheers