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Accuracy International AT-X
- Thread starter Peter Laurvick
- Start date
Call possum hollow and he’ll make you one. Get it with the built-in solvent port.
Or pull the barrel and @pfl338 makes this excellent screw-on bore guides with a solvent port. Really nice.
I've been flirting with picking up an AT-X for few years now and something keeps holding me back. I hate to pay even more for the AT-XC but if it's better and has more options standard I can see the appeal. As a buyer I haven't been seeing Gen 3 guns going for $4K or less, maybe I am just missing those deals because they go so quickly? There's currently a Gen 2 in the classifieds for $4200 but hell a few vendors were selling them new for that last year.
Shortly after x ring posted shot show video of the new at-xc mile high quickly sold out of the $4200 at-x gen 3 rifles. I would not buy a new at-xc over the gen 3 for the $6500 price tag.
They were 5k rifles. The $4200 selling price last year was the close out sale price with 1K off. Most folks paid a lot more than that. The new rifle inclueds the options that did not come with the AT-X, plus the new features.
I don't know a single person that paid more than $4600-4700 new but I am sure there were many who did. That said, $5K plus the hinge, top rail, supposed better action, etc. you're awful close to the new rifle.
I just bought an AT-X and I’m glad I did.
I have had several other AI rifles in the past and this is my favorite one to shoot.
It’s not the smoothest or best looking ( to me ) but it feels great when being run like it’s intended.
The chassis and comp trigger are both very nice improvements from a functional standpoint.
I have had several other AI rifles in the past and this is my favorite one to shoot.
It’s not the smoothest or best looking ( to me ) but it feels great when being run like it’s intended.
The chassis and comp trigger are both very nice improvements from a functional standpoint.
Just curious, why is you rear cap on your spuhr mount backwards?
I also run my rear caps that way on all the new spuhrs.
More pics less talk, nerds
This is the new new ghey-TX
This is the new new ghey-TX
Nice gold anal bead you have there.
Agreed Browser!
More pics-
Same AT-X, new optic
More pics-
Same AT-X, new optic
A guy can appreciate the fact that even down to the optic you taste tested every fde color available
that may even be an elite sand grip I see in there!
Dude, I know right!A guy can appreciate the fact that even down to the optic you taste tested every fde color available
Who would’ve guessed that there’s so many different colors of tan.
Looks like the stack of paint color cards my wife brings home when she’s wanting to repaint the house!
Because Im a curious little guy
feel like it kinda defeats the purpose of the added ring space with the C model, since running the ring backwards eliminates the gained space back to the original sp series, though yes the C does have other improvements (like the new side clamp)But I have ocd, I go crazy if someone runs the x0 and x1 scope caps backwards
Shouldn't ocd be cdo instead for alphabetical order?
Okay, since you are persistentBecause Im a curious little guy
But I have ocd, I go crazy if someone runs the x0 and x1 scope caps backwards
, when I originally mounted the first S&B, I was concerned about the clearance of the ear over the top of the step in the scope tube for the illumination. In addition, I have no intention of mounting a MRDS.When I switched optics, I used a feeler gauge to verify that there was clearance and put the scope cap back with the ear facing backwards over the illumination step in the journal.
If I could have found the previous SPUHR model, I would have definitely went with it instead. What’s gained with the new model is really wasted on my use.
Can anyone with sage green rifle send a few pics? It seems like I can’t find any real life sage green pics of rifles. I have an AT-XC on order in FDE and sage green and need to narrow it down cause I don’t want to buy 2.
Sage Green, very close representation, photos are all over the place due to lighting.
Cool thanks man. There’s a darker green one I see a lot too and some say THAT is sage as well. This is the one I have in my mind for the actually color. Thanks for sending.
Have people found that adding a forend bridge makes the rifle stiffer? I already find the chassis to be very rigid. But the more the merry for picking up trace in the scope.
Midway had a Red AT-X in 6.5CM at good price, impulse buy and now it's sitting next to me.
I always liked angled bag rider, so I can adjust the rifle not only via squeezing the bag, but also by moving the bag front and back. Some quick modelling and this is the first test print. Eventually plan to make this out of SLS printer so it'd be super strong.
I always liked angled bag rider, so I can adjust the rifle not only via squeezing the bag, but also by moving the bag front and back. Some quick modelling and this is the first test print. Eventually plan to make this out of SLS printer so it'd be super strong.
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Bag rider came out great on the SLS printer. Now just waiting for metric thread inserts and bolts to arrive. The bottom is smooth enough to easily slide the bean bag forward band backward to adjust height, yet has enough friction to hold the rifle in place how you left it.
Late to the party, but here's my sage rifle. The color can be a bit different depending on the lighting.
Does anyone have a link for that gold Anal bead? (Asking for a friend).
Be strong brother you are not alone. This is a safe space.
Gonna need one of these:
And then any 5/16x24 threaded knob you fancy. I got the brass bead from McMaster-Carr because I wanted something thiccc and girthy.
How did you get the stock knob off?Be strong brother you are not alone. This is a safe space.
Gonna need one of these:
And then any 5/16x24 threaded knob you fancy. I got the brass bead from McMaster-Carr because I wanted something thiccc and girthy.
A little duct tape and some channel locks. I’m not sure why everyone is so dumbfounded by AI bolt handles but they just thread right off like everything else.
I just got all the hardware for final assembly and put the bag rider on my webstore, both angled and flat shapes are available, in grey and black: https://dotechne.com/rear-bag-rider-accuracy-international/
where did u find that weight kit??
Dependabilt SideTrak LightWeights: AI Keyslot (AT-X)
Dependabilt SideTrak™ Weight Kit - Keyslot (AT-X)
www.sawtoothrifles.com
It might be common knowledge but what type of lube and cleaning schedule are people using with their AT-Xs, particularly in dusty areas?
I really like G96 but even the lightest coat feels like glue near the end of a match. I have also experimented with Otis dry lube but it also didn't seem to stay slick for too long.
I really like G96 but even the lightest coat feels like glue near the end of a match. I have also experimented with Otis dry lube but it also didn't seem to stay slick for too long.
I have been using Sentry dry lube 'Tuf-Glide' for years with excellent results. Goes on wet, does not attract dust anywhere near as much as grease or normal oil.
Thanks! Amazon had a hypodermic needle looking unit of it for a reasonable price.
Not sure what everyone else does but I wipe the bolt and bolt raceway (?) down with brake cleaner, soft brush and rag to get the mix of dust, grease, carbon, and what not out before re-lubing. That's usually every 100 rounds or so.
I think cleaning needs of the action depends on your environment. I don't deal with cold temps or blowing moon dust in Florida so I just wipe down the bolt with a rag and apply a few dabs of grease from a tub of auto grease and that's worked just fine for me for a few years of shooting an AI and many more years with a Tikka before that. Now if your dealing with tough environmental conditions you might need to do something different.
I'm just going to hide in the corner with my "guud enuff" CLP that worked well enough for me over the years. I wonder if it might reduce my bolt lift to 11.5lbs if I switched to one of those preferred lubricants???
Of course, I'm at the point in my life where if the weather gets bad enough to create a dust storm I'll just go sit inside the house...but I seem to recollect not having too bad a time with desert sand and dust on a mildly lubricated M16A4/M4 as long as I kept up with it.
Of course, I'm at the point in my life where if the weather gets bad enough to create a dust storm I'll just go sit inside the house...but I seem to recollect not having too bad a time with desert sand and dust on a mildly lubricated M16A4/M4 as long as I kept up with it.
I toss slip 2000 on mine. Sometimes I use rem oil. Sometimes I use red head grease on the bolt.
Rem oil on the outside of action/barrel
Butches gun oil inside the barrel after cleaning
In Australia we have all kinds of issues depending on the season (like most places), it gets very dusty in our area during warmer months, the fine grit that clogs triggers and messes with magazines followed by mud in winter and everything else in between. I generally try to keep action fairly dry by avoiding oil and grease, opting more for dry lubricants to avoid gumming up sensitive areas and pulling crap into the action.
Bolt guns get the same treatment:
Wipe down the entire action inside
Pull the barrel and top NV cover at times to get into the barrel locking threads from the front end also as required
Clean the chamber area of fine debris
Clean out the bolt stop raceway on both the bolt body and action insides
Bolt face, under extractor, ejector
Use tuf-glide on bolt stop raceway
Lube barrel prior to re-inseting
Rub tuf-glide onto bolt lugs, bolt body contact points, camming area of bolt handle, bolt stop, action area behind trigger sear etc.
Run bolt a handful of times to get lube into all the relevant areas
Then simply wipe dust and crap off as required down the track, before cleaning and doing it all over again periodically.
Nothing outrageous, I generally just wipe them down and use a silicone impregnated cloth, then wipe most of that off to get rid of the slippery sheen.
