Off topic but how do you like the recon 2 with the anvil head? Does it come loose on you when panning?More pseudo AI goodness
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Off topic but how do you like the recon 2 with the anvil head? Does it come loose on you when panning?More pseudo AI goodness
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It’s my first tripod setup but I’m loving it. It hasn’t come lose panning but if you lock it and go left it will. I’m just gonna put some blue loctite on there to prevent that from happening thoughOff topic but how do you like the recon 2 with the anvil head? Does it come loose on you when panning?
Did you remove the rear mag block installed in the chassis to see if it helped with your aw mags yet?More pseudo AI goodness
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Oh yeah I did today. Completely solved the issue. I should've posted it.Did you remove the rear mag block installed in the chassis to see if it helped with your aw mags yet?
Is the aw mag somewhat loose in there now? Or still good tight fitment?Oh yeah I did today. Completely solved the issue. I should've posted it.
There is no change it’s still good and tight. Ax mag i bought also works well. It doesn’t adjust the latch or tension at allIs the aw mag somewhat loose in there now? Or still good tight fitment?
I know little to nothing about clipons (but I want to end up with something like a PVS30) so looking for knowledge about NV/thermal clipons and how necessary/sensitive the clipons are to not exactly coplanar ([completely monolithic pic rail like LMT] vs [atx high action (20MOA) + atx 20MOA front rail - relatively coplanar] vs [stock, low action rail (20MOA) + accessory rail/20MOA AT NV rail]); specifically to my situation, how big a deal is it to have a 20MOA scope mount on relatively coplanar rails (do they make PVS30 clamps that have 20MOA built in and maybe lowered a tad)?Can’t remember if I posted this with the clip on but here ya go
A PVS30 or 27 won't care about misalignment. I've run a 30 in front of a scope on 1" rings and a 20 moa base, and had no shift in my zero or issues with the image.I know little to nothing about clipons (but I want to end up with something like a PVS30) so looking for knowledge about NV/thermal clipons and how necessary/sensitive the clipons are to not exactly coplanar ([completely monolithic pic rail like LMT] vs [atx high action (20MOA) + atx 20MOA front rail - relatively coplanar] vs [stock, low action rail (20MOA) + accessory rail/20MOA AT NV rail]); specifically to my situation, how big a deal is it to have a 20MOA scope mount on relatively coplanar rails (do they make PVS30 clamps that have 20MOA built in and maybe lowered a tad)?
Essentially question comes down to A) optical centers matching up, and B) optical axes matching up - rank which version causes least => most distortion in end picture quality
1) scope center = clipon center (and same axis/tilt) (obviously ideal)
2) scope center is above/below clipon center (but on same axis/tilt)
3) scope center = clipon center (but 20MOA axis/tilt difference)
4) slightly off center and 20MOA off axis/tilt
*and most importantly, with the technology where it is in the ~$10k+ clipon world do any of the above cause enough distortion to worry about, or can the clipon be internally adjusted to correct (within reason) any of the errors above?
Appreciate the education (@CR2 SS)
I agree with WillI know little to nothing about clipons (but I want to end up with something like a PVS30) so looking for knowledge about NV/thermal clipons and how necessary/sensitive the clipons are to not exactly coplanar ([completely monolithic pic rail like LMT] vs [atx high action (20MOA) + atx 20MOA front rail - relatively coplanar] vs [stock, low action rail (20MOA) + accessory rail/20MOA AT NV rail]); specifically to my situation, how big a deal is it to have a 20MOA scope mount on relatively coplanar rails (do they make PVS30 clamps that have 20MOA built in and maybe lowered a tad)?
Essentially question comes down to A) optical centers matching up, and B) optical axes matching up - rank which version causes least => most distortion in end picture quality
1) scope center = clipon center (and same axis/tilt) (obviously ideal)
2) scope center is above/below clipon center (but on same axis/tilt)
3) scope center = clipon center (but 20MOA axis/tilt difference)
4) slightly off center and 20MOA off axis/tilt
*and most importantly, with the technology where it is in the ~$10k+ clipon world do any of the above cause enough distortion to worry about, or can the clipon be internally adjusted to correct (within reason) any of the errors above?
Appreciate the education (@CR2 SS)
My 22GT barrels arrived. I’m breaking the first one in now. Seems to feed just fine. More time will tell — stock magazines, tuned for 6.5 Creed body taper.My AT-X has shipped. So now time to figure out what to do with it.
Do any of the 6mm BR, BRA, Dasher, GT feed better then another? See that AI has 6br barrels available and Milehigh has 6dasher and 6gt barrels. Or would it be best to just download the 6cm? Goal would be a light recoiling rifle for the kids to play with.
I understand that the 6br, bra and dasher would need a kit for the mags. Any kits better then the others?
My 22GT barrels arrived. I’m breaking the first one in now. Seems to feed just fine. More time will tell — stock magazines, tuned for 6.5 Creed body taper.
Did you send them in to AINA or Mile High?For anyone having skip-over issues, even if they’re intermittent, I highly recommend sending your mags to AI.
I’ve had problems with 22GT, Creed, and x47L cases on and off over the last couple months. Tried adjusting feed lips, spring tension, follower angle, etc. Nothing was working. Sent them in to have them looked at and all of them came back feeding 100%, including the GT. No more having to move rounds forward in the mag.
They said that the feed lips were undersized (after I had already widened them myself) and the springs/followers were replaced.
It seems like AX mags walk a fine line between enough round retention and allowing rounds to sit high enough in the action. But feeling these “fixed” mags compared to how they were previously is a night and day difference.
It’s gonna be tight, might be fine with no bridge. If you have a bridge, you’re going to have to install that first and then slip the barrel through the fore end at the very least. And you’ll have to remove the barrel to remove the bridge.Has anyone installed a straight taper barrel in there ATX? Had a BB 224 Bartlien show up today
Did you send them in to AINA or Mile High?
That sounds promising, like it!Asked AI about magnum and 223 bolts at SHOT...it's going to be awhile. They need to get machining time in England.
AI had that setup @ SHOT!Does anyone know if the 700 ATX chassis with fit an Impact 737r without having to mill out a space for the trigger hanger?
Has anyone installed a straight taper barrel in there ATX? Had a BB 224 Bartlien show up today
Did AI roll out the Tikka T3X version?AI had that setup @ SHOT!
I haven't heard any reports. Curios why they would? There's already a ton of support for tikka. I'm pretty sure AI feels their shits worlds better than tikka. Prob undeserving of such fine pedigree.Did AI roll out the Tikka T3X version?
I didnt ask, but I was told they were going to @ last years SHOT.Did AI roll out the Tikka T3X version?
They’ve had the Tikka chassis at SHOT for the last 2 years. Tons of support for Tikka already, yes, but the market supports it.I haven't heard any reports. Curios why they would? There's already a ton of support for tikka. I'm pretty sure AI feels their shits worlds better than tikka. Prob undeserving of such fine pedigree.
I'm wanting another atx700 chassis, unfortunately all that's available right now is black and red. Might just have to run black.They’ve had the Tikka chassis at SHOT for the last 2 years. Tons of support for Tikka already, yes, but the market supports it.
That said, they just started shipping R700 chassis in the last month or so - I am positive it will be another year at least until we see the Tikka inlet available.
I'm wanting another atx700 chassis, unfortunately all that's available right now is black and red. Might just have to run black.
Manzella PrecisionIs there a preferred vendor or smith for prefit barrels? This is for my incoming AT-X.
I second the Proof prefits. I have 3 and all of them shoot great.My proof AI prefit is probably my most accurate and consistent barrel.
My proof prefits in 6.5, 6cm and Dasher all shoot great!
My opinion on the GT vs x, y, z 6BR variant.
Expect you may have to tune mags for GT, expect you might buy mags kits for the BRs but still need to tweak them. I’ve had both cartridges and some mags worked without any tweaking right out of the box… some I could never get to feed.
I just think for every: “I never had a problem feeding.” There’s a “I had to buy 2 mags before I finally got X working.”
As long as your prepared for that, than it’s a wash, a 105 - 110gr bullet at 2750-2900, you’re doing the same thing across all the cartridges. They’re all easy to load for, but factory ammo for the GT is nice. If you’re playing the I absolutely will not reload… 6cm, a lot more options on the table and it’s 100% a competitive cartridge.
There was some MDT AICS BR mags that a lot guys including me had issues with. MDT sent a new internal kit and that solved that, for me at least.Can't say I've ever had a magazine that wouldn't ever reliably feed (except ARC's with bigger cartridges like .308).
They all definitely require a little tuning for optimal function though.
There was some MDT AICS BR mags that a lot guys including me had issues with. MDT sent a new internal kit and that solved that, for me at least.
That’s the only one that without replacing parts was super crappy.
I did have to tune my AX mags for my ATX.. which most guys don’t have to do. So I guess I got all the bad luck.
Mine did a nose dive about 1/2 through a mag. I tried every trick I could think of, nothing helped. I loaded 12 dummy cartridges and cycled them so many times. I still use those dummy rounds to test my mags just to make sure!I heard about the MDT mags, what exactly was the issue with those?
I just went through the process of tuning 3 of my MDT 6BR mags. They seem to run really good right now, though sometimes the follower gets a little "sticky".
I'll be shooting my first match with them this weekend, I hope they don't present any issues. They pass the living room test though, but always different once you expose them to adverse conditions for any extended period.
I have ditched all my Impacts since I’ve had my AT-Xhey guys, im looking at a new rifle. do i buy the AI AT-X or just the chassis and build something around the 737 action (or similiar)? Would eventually use it for PRS matches. Any thoughts?
No.Are the comp trigger failures frequent enough to justify buying a spare?