Accuracy International AT-X

My kid approves. Need to cycle it a bunch to get it broke in now. My AX is noticeably smoother.

VideoCapture_20230115-112500.jpg
 
Can’t remember if I posted this with the clip on but here ya go
I know little to nothing about clipons (but I want to end up with something like a PVS30) so looking for knowledge about NV/thermal clipons and how necessary/sensitive the clipons are to not exactly coplanar ([completely monolithic pic rail like LMT] vs [atx high action (20MOA) + atx 20MOA front rail - relatively coplanar] vs [stock, low action rail (20MOA) + accessory rail/20MOA AT NV rail]); specifically to my situation, how big a deal is it to have a 20MOA scope mount on relatively coplanar rails (do they make PVS30 clamps that have 20MOA built in and maybe lowered a tad)?

Essentially question comes down to A) optical centers matching up, and B) optical axes matching up - rank which version causes least => most distortion in end picture quality

1) scope center = clipon center (and same axis/tilt) (obviously ideal)
2) scope center is above/below clipon center (but on same axis/tilt)
3) scope center = clipon center (but 20MOA axis/tilt difference)
4) slightly off center and 20MOA off axis/tilt

*and most importantly, with the technology where it is in the ~$10k+ clipon world do any of the above cause enough distortion to worry about, or can the clipon be internally adjusted to correct (within reason) any of the errors above?


Appreciate the education (@CR2 SS)
 
I know little to nothing about clipons (but I want to end up with something like a PVS30) so looking for knowledge about NV/thermal clipons and how necessary/sensitive the clipons are to not exactly coplanar ([completely monolithic pic rail like LMT] vs [atx high action (20MOA) + atx 20MOA front rail - relatively coplanar] vs [stock, low action rail (20MOA) + accessory rail/20MOA AT NV rail]); specifically to my situation, how big a deal is it to have a 20MOA scope mount on relatively coplanar rails (do they make PVS30 clamps that have 20MOA built in and maybe lowered a tad)?

Essentially question comes down to A) optical centers matching up, and B) optical axes matching up - rank which version causes least => most distortion in end picture quality

1) scope center = clipon center (and same axis/tilt) (obviously ideal)
2) scope center is above/below clipon center (but on same axis/tilt)
3) scope center = clipon center (but 20MOA axis/tilt difference)
4) slightly off center and 20MOA off axis/tilt

*and most importantly, with the technology where it is in the ~$10k+ clipon world do any of the above cause enough distortion to worry about, or can the clipon be internally adjusted to correct (within reason) any of the errors above?


Appreciate the education (@CR2 SS)
A PVS30 or 27 won't care about misalignment. I've run a 30 in front of a scope on 1" rings and a 20 moa base, and had no shift in my zero or issues with the image.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheOtherAndrew
I know little to nothing about clipons (but I want to end up with something like a PVS30) so looking for knowledge about NV/thermal clipons and how necessary/sensitive the clipons are to not exactly coplanar ([completely monolithic pic rail like LMT] vs [atx high action (20MOA) + atx 20MOA front rail - relatively coplanar] vs [stock, low action rail (20MOA) + accessory rail/20MOA AT NV rail]); specifically to my situation, how big a deal is it to have a 20MOA scope mount on relatively coplanar rails (do they make PVS30 clamps that have 20MOA built in and maybe lowered a tad)?

Essentially question comes down to A) optical centers matching up, and B) optical axes matching up - rank which version causes least => most distortion in end picture quality

1) scope center = clipon center (and same axis/tilt) (obviously ideal)
2) scope center is above/below clipon center (but on same axis/tilt)
3) scope center = clipon center (but 20MOA axis/tilt difference)
4) slightly off center and 20MOA off axis/tilt

*and most importantly, with the technology where it is in the ~$10k+ clipon world do any of the above cause enough distortion to worry about, or can the clipon be internally adjusted to correct (within reason) any of the errors above?


Appreciate the education (@CR2 SS)
I agree with Will

The PVS-30 typically won’t care or will care very little. It’s always good to have a close to optical center alignment as possible for a couple of reasons. 1. So that you have the biggest field of view and biggest use of your reticle. 2. Minimize any instance of zero shift. The PVS-30 is known to have little to no shift. But that is not to be said we have never seen an occurance of it.
 
My AT-X has shipped. So now time to figure out what to do with it.

Do any of the 6mm BR, BRA, Dasher, GT feed better then another? See that AI has 6br barrels available and Milehigh has 6dasher and 6gt barrels. Or would it be best to just download the 6cm? Goal would be a light recoiling rifle for the kids to play with.

I understand that the 6br, bra and dasher would need a kit for the mags. Any kits better then the others?
My 22GT barrels arrived. I’m breaking the first one in now. Seems to feed just fine. More time will tell — stock magazines, tuned for 6.5 Creed body taper.
 
My 22GT barrels arrived. I’m breaking the first one in now. Seems to feed just fine. More time will tell — stock magazines, tuned for 6.5 Creed body taper.

I ended up getting the AI 6br barrel and I'm still waiting for my scope and hrd mag kits. I went up and played a little with loading 6br ammo. So with the factory magazine it'll feed somewhat. Best I had was 9 rounds out of 10 fed. Most were 3 or 4 then it would dump the remaining rounds out of the mag. It does show some promise. But for final development I'll wait until I have a higher power scope.
 
Im away at work right now, can someone measure the atx buttpad dimensions for me? Just width and height where it interfaces with the adjustable mechanism. I'm gonna order and grind to fit a few different pads for testing.

Edit: Dimensions found.
 
Last edited:
For anyone having skip-over issues, even if they’re intermittent, I highly recommend sending your mags to AI.

I’ve had problems with 22GT, Creed, and x47L cases on and off over the last couple months. Tried adjusting feed lips, spring tension, follower angle, etc. Nothing was working. Sent them in to have them looked at and all of them came back feeding 100%, including the GT. No more having to move rounds forward in the mag.

They said that the feed lips were undersized (after I had already widened them myself) and the springs/followers were replaced.

It seems like AX mags walk a fine line between enough round retention and allowing rounds to sit high enough in the action. But feeling these “fixed” mags compared to how they were previously is a night and day difference.
 
For anyone having skip-over issues, even if they’re intermittent, I highly recommend sending your mags to AI.

I’ve had problems with 22GT, Creed, and x47L cases on and off over the last couple months. Tried adjusting feed lips, spring tension, follower angle, etc. Nothing was working. Sent them in to have them looked at and all of them came back feeding 100%, including the GT. No more having to move rounds forward in the mag.

They said that the feed lips were undersized (after I had already widened them myself) and the springs/followers were replaced.

It seems like AX mags walk a fine line between enough round retention and allowing rounds to sit high enough in the action. But feeling these “fixed” mags compared to how they were previously is a night and day difference.
Did you send them in to AINA or Mile High?
 
Has anyone installed a straight taper barrel in there ATX? Had a BB 224 Bartlien show up today
It’s gonna be tight, might be fine with no bridge. If you have a bridge, you’re going to have to install that first and then slip the barrel through the fore end at the very least. And you’ll have to remove the barrel to remove the bridge.

Pinch points are going to be the columns on the bridge that fasten it to the chassis… should be pretty obvious if it’s going to clear if you just slide it over the barrel before putting it all together.

Did you send them in to AINA or Mile High?

AINA.

Mile High is worthless in my experience. They had to get “manager approval” to sell me weights, screws, and mags since I didn’t buy my rifle through them.

I went to EuroOptic, explained that I didn’t buy my rifle through them, and they were like “absolutely dude, you want a hinge too?” Lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: BurtG
Has anyone installed a straight taper barrel in there ATX? Had a BB 224 Bartlien show up today

You'll either need to run no bridge or the short bridge and run that bridge up against the receiver area (if you want the nvg rail as a place to put your hand.

Since it's obviously harder to flex/move barrel near the action, you likely won't have a problem. But if you use the full nvg rail, you'll easily be able to flex the barrel into the inside mounting portions.


The safest bet is to have your 1.25 turned down to 1.20 or 1.15
 
I haven't heard any reports. Curios why they would? There's already a ton of support for tikka. I'm pretty sure AI feels their shits worlds better than tikka. Prob undeserving of such fine pedigree.
They’ve had the Tikka chassis at SHOT for the last 2 years. Tons of support for Tikka already, yes, but the market supports it.

That said, they just started shipping R700 chassis in the last month or so - I am positive it will be another year at least until we see the Tikka inlet available.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 4O6shootist
They’ve had the Tikka chassis at SHOT for the last 2 years. Tons of support for Tikka already, yes, but the market supports it.

That said, they just started shipping R700 chassis in the last month or so - I am positive it will be another year at least until we see the Tikka inlet available.
I'm wanting another atx700 chassis, unfortunately all that's available right now is black and red. Might just have to run black.
 
They have a video with a completed one, and I’ve talked to someone? About how they have one and plan to release.

I talked to euro around year end and they didn’t have a date.

I plan to buy one when it comes out. I don’t really understand how there’s too much support for tikka to release a chassis but not 700 lmao


…well if I don’t just buy a real Atx first lol
 
My proof prefits in 6.5, 6cm and Dasher all shoot great!

My opinion on the GT vs x, y, z 6BR variant.

Expect you may have to tune mags for GT, expect you might buy mags kits for the BRs but still need to tweak them. I’ve had both cartridges and some mags worked without any tweaking right out of the box… some I could never get to feed.

I just think for every: “I never had a problem feeding.” There’s a “I had to buy 2 mags before I finally got X working.”

As long as your prepared for that, than it’s a wash, a 105 - 110gr bullet at 2750-2900, you’re doing the same thing across all the cartridges. They’re all easy to load for, but factory ammo for the GT is nice. If you’re playing the I absolutely will not reload… 6cm, a lot more options on the table and it’s 100% a competitive cartridge.
 
My proof prefits in 6.5, 6cm and Dasher all shoot great!

My opinion on the GT vs x, y, z 6BR variant.

Expect you may have to tune mags for GT, expect you might buy mags kits for the BRs but still need to tweak them. I’ve had both cartridges and some mags worked without any tweaking right out of the box… some I could never get to feed.

I just think for every: “I never had a problem feeding.” There’s a “I had to buy 2 mags before I finally got X working.”

As long as your prepared for that, than it’s a wash, a 105 - 110gr bullet at 2750-2900, you’re doing the same thing across all the cartridges. They’re all easy to load for, but factory ammo for the GT is nice. If you’re playing the I absolutely will not reload… 6cm, a lot more options on the table and it’s 100% a competitive cartridge.

Can't say I've ever had a magazine that wouldn't ever reliably feed (except ARC's with bigger cartridges like .308).

They all definitely require a little tuning for optimal function though.
 
Can't say I've ever had a magazine that wouldn't ever reliably feed (except ARC's with bigger cartridges like .308).

They all definitely require a little tuning for optimal function though.
There was some MDT AICS BR mags that a lot guys including me had issues with. MDT sent a new internal kit and that solved that, for me at least.

That’s the only one that without replacing parts was super crappy.

I did have to tune my AX mags for my ATX.. which most guys don’t have to do. So I guess I got all the bad luck. 🤷
 
  • Like
Reactions: kthomas
There was some MDT AICS BR mags that a lot guys including me had issues with. MDT sent a new internal kit and that solved that, for me at least.

That’s the only one that without replacing parts was super crappy.

I did have to tune my AX mags for my ATX.. which most guys don’t have to do. So I guess I got all the bad luck. 🤷

I heard about the MDT mags, what exactly was the issue with those?

I just went through the process of tuning 3 of my MDT 6BR mags. They seem to run really good right now, though sometimes the follower gets a little "sticky".

I'll be shooting my first match with them this weekend, I hope they don't present any issues. They pass the living room test though, but always different once you expose them to adverse conditions for any extended period.
 
I heard about the MDT mags, what exactly was the issue with those?

I just went through the process of tuning 3 of my MDT 6BR mags. They seem to run really good right now, though sometimes the follower gets a little "sticky".

I'll be shooting my first match with them this weekend, I hope they don't present any issues. They pass the living room test though, but always different once you expose them to adverse conditions for any extended period.
Mine did a nose dive about 1/2 through a mag. I tried every trick I could think of, nothing helped. I loaded 12 dummy cartridges and cycled them so many times. I still use those dummy rounds to test my mags just to make sure!

I used a spray car wax on the inside of my mags to reduce friction and let the follower hopefully run more smoothly, when i see them sticking like that. Not a guaranteed solution but it might do the trick.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kthomas