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Accuracy International AT-X
- Thread starter Peter Laurvick
- Start date
Yep. I highly recommend him. He’s than happy to answer any questions and share progress of the chambering.Did Manzella machine the flats as well?
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Manzella sends me videos every time he dial in one my barrels, showing zero, I mean zero runout at the throat point of the chamber prior to cutting. The man's a great machinist. Probably why I have 6 barrels at his shop right now.
Sounds like Manzella is the goto then. I just ordered a blank from Bugholes and plan on sending it off to Manzella next
does anyone have a PDF copy of the AT-X user manual that comes on the thumb drive?
ETA: also, what is the part number for a dark earth full length top rail for the long foreend bridge?
ETA: also, what is the part number for a dark earth full length top rail for the long foreend bridge?
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What weights do you have in that (other than the obviously visible forend ones?
Im guessing you have one of the steel but spacers to balance it out.
Do you have any barrel channel weights?
Not sure what the exact details are but they are available in the UK.
Accuracy International - Steel Butt Plate Spacers for AT-X
Each spacer supplied with 2 x stainless steel screws. Approx. weights shown.
www.sportingservices.co.uk
Yes, 4 sawtooth weights per side and all 3 internal AI weights. No weight in the rear except a more recently added sawtooth bagrider.
It’s a tad front heavy at 28” + suppressor but that’s my preference. Total weight configured like that is like 28.5-29lbs.
A little overkill for most and realistically could probably get away with 4 external weights total without much difference in feel or recoil.
Ordered the largest one. Will post how I like it.Not sure what the exact details are but they are available in the UK.
Accuracy International - Steel Butt Plate Spacers for AT-X
Each spacer supplied with 2 x stainless steel screws. Approx. weights shown.
It looks like it'd be very front heavy, I guess it still balance under the row of weights so not too bad.
AI Classic at Altus
Elite Moss and Patriot Brown ATX’s
Elite Moss and Patriot Brown ATX’s
I thought yours was OD Green? Have you re-done it or these different rifles?
Your OD Green was sexy AF.
I had it re-cerakoted in Elite Moss. The Brownells Alumahyde was starting to come off and the blue show through.
The elite moss looks a little darker than the OD Green from that picture. A little closer to AW Green whereas the OD Green looks like a good match for Sage Green.
I doubt they're not selling them as parts to be assholes. AI already has a hard enough time keeping up with supply of complete mags, why would they sell the parts they need to make whole mags if they have supply issues and then not be able to supply as many mags?
You cut off the part of his post where it says to call AINA for service if you're having feed issues. I'd be willing to bet they'd just swap the mag with the AT-X mag or the guts and then you wouldn't even have to buy the parts.
This. They swapped my mags out with the updated followers and adjusted feed lips for no charge. Only downside is you have to send them in.
Yeah, but they're assholes for updating for free them instead of making you buy the parts to do it and doing it yourself.
I had the hinge get loose on my AXSR stock I swapped to my ATX chassis. Gave them a call, they emailed me a label while still on the phone and said they’d turn it around in less than a week. Damn them and their shitty service!!! (Slams fist on table!)
Seems more likely that they suck at updating their website.
Just an update to show how fast AI turns around repairs, mag lips adjustments, etc…
My folder was sent on a Wednesday and showed back up today. 1 week. Pretty damn quick with zero issues. And now my hinge is tighter than your mom before she met your dad….
My folder was sent on a Wednesday and showed back up today. 1 week. Pretty damn quick with zero issues. And now my hinge is tighter than your mom before she met your dad….
Well fuck me running, while waiting on a Spuhr mount I bought a Leupold 34mm AR scope mount, groups sucked, changed over to the Spuhr and i shot a one hole group at 100, “mounts matter”. While waiting on a guided night time pig hunt with thermals I was told a steel plate was 676 yards away, I said no way, dailed 4 mils and sent a round over the target, came down to 3.2 mils(525yds), and the next 10 were sub 1/2 moa(Norma 143). I ordered a folder mechanism from Mile High yesterday(not in stock but will ship when in) to ease in cleaning. This rifle continues to impress me, the center point balance is perfect, the trigger(my first 2 stage) is great, and the ease of 1 minute barrel changes is awesome, at my age I don’t anticipate buying another bolt gun for PRS type shooting.
What has been your average barrel life for each barrel? Im particularly interested in the 308 lifespan
Haven’t burned my AI .308 Win Barrel out yet. To toasted one on another rifle at around 3,400 rounds. Same box of ammo my speed dropped 100fps overnight, in the middle of a 2-day match. Was a rough weekend lol. 6mm Creedmoor I started getting weird fliers, speeds and BC variance around 1200-1300 rounds. Ended up running the barrel to 1700 rounds in matches. Drove tacks up close and still prints 5-shot 1/2” groups. But every now and then throws weird fliers it never did before and the BC variance is so big it’s lucky to hit a Full IPSC at 1000yds because the bullet is getting so torn up leaving the muzzle. Basically no rifling for the first 5-6”
Creedmoor is is a 1000-1500 round barrel in my experience.
Anyone have a diagram or can tell me how to take apart an early gen 1 ATX? I don’t have the screw by the rear tang.
I just need to get the trigger out. Just shot a 2 day and it’s starting to feel like it’s losing some adjustment on the 2nd stage.
I just need to get the trigger out. Just shot a 2 day and it’s starting to feel like it’s losing some adjustment on the 2nd stage.
5 min with the 7 axis Dremel... Have it turned into a gen 4 in no time
Pull the buttstock off first. The two 5mm hex fasteners, then the 4 4mm hex behind it. Then pull the grip, under the grip is access to the rear screw. Front screw is through the mag well. Have to pull the QD cup as well iirc
So there are more changes to the screw layout on the different versions as well?
I was only under the impression the butt stock was different....
What all is different if you order one today vs being one of the folks that waited a year for one in the beginning?
I was only under the impression the butt stock was different....
What all is different if you order one today vs being one of the folks that waited a year for one in the beginning?
The early ones require more work to take apart to access something simple like the trigger. Makes no sense. These are things that should’ve all been checked with shooters before release
makes me more inclined to use my AI AO instead.
Gen 1.5 and 3 only require 2 fasteners to be removed to say work on a trigger and they are easily accessed. The gen 1 requires 8 fasteners to be removed. 6 if you have a hinnge installed.
Well that's interesting...
Didn't remember seeing anything about that
So just a pain in the ass If you comp trigger takes a dump mainly... still serviceable all the same just not as convenient
Anyone got a side by side comparison on the screw set up?
Or a parts explosion?
I'm genuinely curious
Didn't remember seeing anything about that
So just a pain in the ass If you comp trigger takes a dump mainly... still serviceable all the same just not as convenient
Anyone got a side by side comparison on the screw set up?
Or a parts explosion?
I'm genuinely curious
Only pictures I have on my phone at the moment.
the original early model (DE chassis)
Fastener location in red. These four need removed and then grip is removed to access rear chassis screw marked in blue
Fasteners marked in red are accessed by removing the two fasteners holding the buttstock adapter together (fixed models).
Folder you just fold it and the four screws are accessible.
Four total screws, two go into the upper part of chassis, two into the lower.
Gen 3 (ES chassis picture) you just remove the fastener marked in blue. Red indicates lower chassis, yellow shows where the upper and lower separate after removing fastener marked in blue.
Both chassis have the same fastener location up front on the front of the magwell
the original early model (DE chassis)
Fastener location in red. These four need removed and then grip is removed to access rear chassis screw marked in blue
Fasteners marked in red are accessed by removing the two fasteners holding the buttstock adapter together (fixed models).
Folder you just fold it and the four screws are accessible.
Four total screws, two go into the upper part of chassis, two into the lower.
Gen 3 (ES chassis picture) you just remove the fastener marked in blue. Red indicates lower chassis, yellow shows where the upper and lower separate after removing fastener marked in blue.
Both chassis have the same fastener location up front on the front of the magwell
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I'm looking at picking up an ATX chassis. I see the win tactical weights interfere with the knob on the RRS BTC-Pro clamp. How bad is this interference and does anyone have pictures? I am wondering if I can just mill down the weight to make things clear
For those of you who have had their comp trigger shit the bed. How long did it take AI to get you another one? Asking for a friend who's rifle has been down for three weeks now......
I haven’t sent mine in yet. I swapped mine to the oem. 3 weeks sucks tho
The comp trigger is the one with issues. I killed 1 comp trigger and swapped it to the standard.
From what I understand the comp trigger that comes in the AT-X is outsourced. Someone else can probably explain in detail. Shit happens but it's how a company responds that matters to me.
Ah, so there's a standard trigger- is it something one can spec upon rifle purchase, or only bought as an AI part/accessory?
I’ve sent mine in twice and both times it was 2-3 week round trip. It was from my AT so I was able to swap my OG trigger back in while the comp trigger was gone.
No you gotta purchase separate. I think it’s around $500 at mile high.
It is, but there’s a hell of a lot of people that have killed it. Just not a good design from what I can tell. Sucks when it dies mid match. Hopefully trigger tech or someone else will look into making one.
I also think a vast majority of guys don’t know how to adjust them correctly either.
