Accuracy International Picture Thread

#2,652
ironsight1000yard said:
That is fast!
I only get 2650 from my RPR 6.5.
What barrel do you use? Length? Twist?
My bolt will be here tomorrow, all I need is a barrel for 6.5cm :)
Click to expand...

If I had to guess that's a factory ai 26" just like mine :)
 

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#2,658
Couple of AI barrel questions.
Do the factory AI barrels have cut rifling or are they button rifled?
How accurate are the Factory AI barrels compared to one spun up by a smith?

I am on the fence on whether to just order a barrel or send a Krieger medium palma blank that I have siting here to a smith to chamber.
 
#2,659
whatsupdoc said:
Couple of AI barrel questions.
Do the factory AI barrels have cut rifling or are they button rifled?
How accurate are the Factory AI barrels compared to one spun up by a smith?

I am on the fence on whether to just order a barrel or send a Krieger medium palma blank that I have siting here to a smith to chamber.
Click to expand...

All 4 of my factory barrels have been hammers
 
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#2,661
whatsupdoc said:
Couple of AI barrel questions.
Do the factory AI barrels have cut rifling or are they button rifled?
How accurate are the Factory AI barrels compared to one spun up by a smith?

I am on the fence on whether to just order a barrel or send a Krieger medium palma blank that I have siting here to a smith to chamber.
Click to expand...

I believe all factory AI barrels are cut rifled.

I don't think you'll see an accuracy difference in factory vs custom barrels. However, in my experience you CAN get better headspace control with a custom barrel when your smith has the action in-hand.

I had a factory barrel on my AT that caused virgin brass to grow 0.007" on its first firing. Since then, I send all my blanks to LRI, and they can machine headspace to +0.0015" since they have the measurements from my rifle.
 
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#2,663
My 24" factory Bartlein 1:10" 308 barrel on my AX is a hammer as well, shoots 175 FGMM sub 1/2 MOA, and have made hits out to 1200 yards with it in a match. Never measured brass growth though, plan is to only shoot factory 308 (save time reloading) and either sell the 1x fired brass or use it in my SCAR which will chew it up anyway.
 
#2,664
samb300 said:
My 24" factory Bartlein 1:10" 308 barrel on my AX is a hammer as well, shoots 175 FGMM sub 1/2 MOA, and have made hits out to 1200 yards with it in a match. Never measured brass growth though, plan is to only shoot factory 308 (save time reloading) and either sell the 1x fired brass or use it in my SCAR which will chew it up anyway.
Click to expand...

False... Everyone knows 308 goes transonic at 876 yards and immediately falls to the Earth....

308_traj-1.jpg
 
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#2,665
@Huskydriver haha yup. The reality though is I got my ass kicked because I sucked at all the close/fast/positional targets. Definitely (for me at least) I need to practice with a 308 in order to be even remotely proficient at a match. Laying down prone wasn't too bad because even at those 800+ yard targets I could see my splash on misses, and make adjustments, whereas the small 6mms weren't seeing anything. And that's coming from a mild 6.5x47L as my primary match caliber; I'm sure going from a 6BR to a 308 would be quite the shock.
 
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#2,668
Dthomas3523 said:
Anyone that has had their AX cerakoted, does the baking get hot enough to mess with the bonding?

Thinking about sniper gray.....
Click to expand...

Cerakote cure temp is either 250F or 300F (new application guide says cure at 300F for one hour).

45 minutes in a 250F oven and the action will peel off the chassis with no effort whatsoever (while still hot). You’d have to talk to someone at Devcon to see if the epoxy has the same strength after it has been heated past it’s operating range.

I know guys have cerakoted their AX’s and they obviously still shoot. But if it was me I’d de-bond it and Cerakote the two halves, then bond it back together. The factory guns are cerakoted prior to assembly.
 
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#2,669
samb300 said:
Cerakote cure temp is either 250F or 300F (new application guide says cure at 300F for one hour).

45 minutes in a 250F oven and the action will peel off the chassis with no effort whatsoever (while still hot). You’d have to talk to someone at Devcon to see if the epoxy has the same strength after it has been heated past it’s operating range.

I know guys have cerakoted their AX’s and they obviously still shoot. But if it was me I’d de-bond it and Cerakote the two halves, then bond it back together. The factory guns are cerakoted prior to assembly.
Click to expand...

Yeah even that amount of heat will weaken most of the Devcon adhesive line.

The answer, if you can find a color that you like, is the C-Series of Air-Cure Cerakote. Same stuff you'd use for an optic job. It's pretty damn tough stuff, and comes ready to spray.

Debonding would be an option too like Sam stated. I just don't think the resulting rebonding ever looks as good as the factory job usually.
 
#2,677
On a completely unrelated note (except that it’s a pretty good deal), CCI is having a rimfire rebate right now for 20% off every five boxes of ammo you buy before 03/31. You know, in case anyone has the otch for a deal and has a Vudoo in an AI chassis that needs some ammo for it... ;)
 
#2,682
@BLKWLFK9 how stable is your bipod spigot setup?

I’m thinking about going the same route with my atlas PSR and atlas CAL. Currently one is attached to the spigot and the other has a picatinny mount. Thinking about picking up the rail for BT19 and a couple RRS mounts so I can move my bipods around.
 
#2,683
Spigot is good to go. Love the RRs mount. The only reason why I'm not getting the accutac br4 G2 is bc their arca mount doesnt work on both arca and pic like the RRS mount does. Ordered a CAL G2 today and have another RRS mount on order as well.
 
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#2,684
Ive got an AI question.

On stages where you have to single feed each round by getting up, getting a round, getting back down on the rifle and single feeding, how is everyone doing this with their AIs? Pushing the round down into the mag through the breach or what?
 
#2,686
BLKWLFK9 said:
Ive got an AI question.

On stages where you have to single feed each round by getting up, getting a round, getting back down on the rifle and single feeding, how is everyone doing this with their AIs? Pushing the round down into the mag through the breach or what?
Click to expand...

Take the mag empty, and jam it closed. It’ll take a little chuck out of the follower, then you can file it smooth.

Or you can just file it. But jamming it home makes it faster since it’s metal vs plastic.

Then you can just toss a round in chamber and roll.
 
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#2,687
BLKWLFK9 said:
Ive got an AI question.

On stages where you have to single feed each round by getting up, getting a round, getting back down on the rifle and single feeding, how is everyone doing this with their AIs? Pushing the round down into the mag through the breach or what?
Click to expand...

A couple of my mags have enough up and down play that if I pull down on it after it’s seated the bolt will run over the follower.
 
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#2,689
Total accident I figured it out. When I got the rifle, it was stopping it. Someone mentioned filing part of it and I figured I’d look it up when I got home.

Couple minutes later I was messing with rifle and was curious how it would hold up over time of having the bolt run into it.

So I jammed bolt home, it went over follower. When I went to file it later, I found that it cut out a small piece of follower that was perfect. So I just filed the rough edges off.

Did the exact same thing to two other mags and worked perfectly.
 
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#2,690
It worked on 1 of my mags perfectly but the other, the bolt would ride over it by the follower dipping forward when pushing that shit hard. Oh well. At least I have 1 mag that worked.
 
#2,700
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