It’s perfect man. I’m partial to Area 419 gear but Greyops has a quick disconnect for the Garmin and a similar arca arm mount as well.
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Price pending, I’d be a player for a 223 bolt body if all I had to do was screw my firing pin assembly in.
While I’m more interested in a magnum bolt face a .223 wouldn’t hurt my feels either. Just not sure what kind of fuckery it will take to get a magazine that feeds .223 reliably in an AT action.
Frank my 5 year old was practicing his reading with me while we perused this thread "daddy can we put a picture of the big gun on" I couldn't really say no so I set him up on the lawn. He didn't complain about the heavy body lift but I think he's been spending too much time in the bear pit 
How to vandalize your AT rifle with AE Mk 2 skins:
Strip AT rifle, remove all flush cups because we don’t need no stinkin’ flush cups, mark cuts for skins with tape.
Cut skins as necessary with razor saw
Test fit
Hey! One of the skin screws won’t pass through the chassis fore end! Use a 1/8” transfer punch to mark it.
And drill a 15/64 hole because that’s what all the other holes in the chassis are.
To be continued…
Strip AT rifle, remove all flush cups because we don’t need no stinkin’ flush cups, mark cuts for skins with tape.
Cut skins as necessary with razor saw
Test fit
Hey! One of the skin screws won’t pass through the chassis fore end! Use a 1/8” transfer punch to mark it.
And drill a 15/64 hole because that’s what all the other holes in the chassis are.
To be continued…
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Nice, but a 7axis mill would speed things up and make your work look a little more professional.
What about the barrel clamp access hole?
Stop whining.
Use a 17/32 transfer punch and your AT fore skins to mark it and then drill a hole.
Start with a small bit and work your way up to 17/32.
Don’t be an idiot. Drill a 1/8 hole from the inside and then work up to the final size from the outside in. Chamfer the hole from the outside.
Dremels are for pussies who vape strawberry flavored shit.
Real men smoke Pall Malls and have COPD by age 50.
Check your work, if a 4mm allen socket fits, you’re golden.
Stop whining.
Use a 17/32 transfer punch and your AT fore skins to mark it and then drill a hole.
Start with a small bit and work your way up to 17/32.
Don’t be an idiot. Drill a 1/8 hole from the inside and then work up to the final size from the outside in. Chamfer the hole from the outside.
Dremels are for pussies who vape strawberry flavored shit.
Real men smoke Pall Malls and have COPD by age 50.
Check your work, if a 4mm allen socket fits, you’re golden.
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Hitting the range today on a day off.
Student this weekend using one of our school house rifles.
Another AI pic from this weekend.
Managed to snag a couple. Back out of stock now for anyone wondering
I thought you needed the services of a Mohel to perform any foreskin work.
WTF!!!! I was about to ask you if I could but those back from you, because I didn't want to rattle can my Viper skins
Dude, I had three sets of Viper skins I would have given you, free for nothin’.WTF!!!! I was about to ask you if I could but those back from you, because I didn't want to rattle can my Viper skins
I ended up selling one set and giving the other two sets to the buyer for free just to get rid of the gawd awful things…
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Why’d you pick a 420 over a 527 for that ^?
Any issue with the arc rings ? I read a lot of bad about them in the one thread
People that worry about stickers have too much time on their hands.
People that succumb to peer pressure ? C’mon get some spine
Somebody buy that 6br barrel from me ^ 125 rounds ^
People that succumb to peer pressure ? C’mon get some spine
Somebody buy that 6br barrel from me ^ 125 rounds ^
AT rifle vandalism, continued.
I’ve got a drill press in the garage but it’s crowded out there what with the nice car that’s never seen rain or salt on the trickle charger and all, and I think I’m out of propane for the heater anyhow.
Anyway, it’s more fun to drive 10 minutes to your buddy’s machine shop and watch him drill holes in your chassis on his Bridgeport.
He’s not a gun guy at all but he’s knocked out by the interrupted threads in the receiver for the barrel.
I go home and assemble my shit. Everything is going swimmingly until I function check the rifle.
The trigger is stuck solid and won’t budge. Upon further investigation, I discover the mount for the trigger shoe is hanging up on the skins at the top of the skin’s trigger opening.
The triangle shaped piece at the top rear of the trigger opening has to go. Razor saw:
It worked!
I had him counter bore the “stupid idea” early fore end for the counter sunk screw mounting of the late fore end. Maybe this summer I’ll debond the fore end and switch over to the early front sling swivel style.
Probably about the same time I pop off these skins and DuraCoat them OD green. It’s too cold to paint with that nasty stuff now.
Before
After
Edited to add- this mod will work with AICS skins, too.
With the AICS, you’ll have the big square bolt opening for the R700.
You won’t have to modify the trigger opening because that’s already done.
This is because the rear action mounting bolt opening is at the rear of the trigger opening.
I’ve got a drill press in the garage but it’s crowded out there what with the nice car that’s never seen rain or salt on the trickle charger and all, and I think I’m out of propane for the heater anyhow.
Anyway, it’s more fun to drive 10 minutes to your buddy’s machine shop and watch him drill holes in your chassis on his Bridgeport.
He’s not a gun guy at all but he’s knocked out by the interrupted threads in the receiver for the barrel.
I go home and assemble my shit. Everything is going swimmingly until I function check the rifle.
The trigger is stuck solid and won’t budge. Upon further investigation, I discover the mount for the trigger shoe is hanging up on the skins at the top of the skin’s trigger opening.
The triangle shaped piece at the top rear of the trigger opening has to go. Razor saw:
It worked!
I had him counter bore the “stupid idea” early fore end for the counter sunk screw mounting of the late fore end. Maybe this summer I’ll debond the fore end and switch over to the early front sling swivel style.
Probably about the same time I pop off these skins and DuraCoat them OD green. It’s too cold to paint with that nasty stuff now.
Before
After
Edited to add- this mod will work with AICS skins, too.
With the AICS, you’ll have the big square bolt opening for the R700.
You won’t have to modify the trigger opening because that’s already done.
This is because the rear action mounting bolt opening is at the rear of the trigger opening.
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That is a bitchin rifle!Two reasons for this post:
First, the MC is ready to roll for the first ELR match of the year around here next Saturday
Second. I have made some loading/staging shelves for the ZERO press for myself and a couple of buddies. I have 2 sets left. They are bead blasted but no anodize and may have some imperfections.
I want to give back to my Brothers from the AI Mother so I am giving ( that's "free" for you knuckle draggers) the last 2 units to the first 2 public " I will take it" posted with a pic of your AI, as long as A: you have been a member of this forum at least as long as me and B: You actually own an AI. and C: you promise not to put any 6.5CM rounds on the trays
I really appreciate all the knowledge that is passed around on this forum. You are a really good bunch of guys! So lets see how long this takes lol(just kidding) oh, and you have to live in the CONUS since I am covering shipping also.
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Late to task, but "I'll take it" if still available.Two reasons for this post:
First, the MC is ready to roll for the first ELR match of the year around here next Saturday
Second. I have made some loading/staging shelves for the ZERO press for myself and a couple of buddies. I have 2 sets left. They are bead blasted but no anodize and may have some imperfections.
I want to give back to my Brothers from the AI Mother so I am giving ( that's "free" for you knuckle draggers) the last 2 units to the first 2 public " I will take it" posted with a pic of your AI, as long as A: you have been a member of this forum at least as long as me and B: You actually own an AI. and C: you promise not to put any 6.5CM rounds on the trays
I really appreciate all the knowledge that is passed around on this forum. You are a really good bunch of guys! So lets see how long this takes lol
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Well with @M8541Reaper showing me the way on the short action calibers, I've finally completed the trifecta with the addition of a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. I feel like I am utilizing the AXSR to it's fullest extent now, shooting 300 Norma in ELR Light comps, 7MM PRC in the magnum category just for the sheer smile it brings to my face when shooting UKD to a mile (and hopefully the NF ELR Challenge this year), and now the 6.5 Creedmoor. Can't promise I will actually shoot it in a PRS match, but I may shoot it at Major Land's Snipers Cup with the Creedmoor barrel.
Anyone who has the Greyops xero mount on a spuhr……
Does it need Raptor height rail in order to work reliably or with other pic rail heights work?
Regarding the trigger adjustability of the AI factory trigger depicted in the below video, what are the pitfalls to watch out for when adjusting it?
Will the adjustment screw eventually come out or is it captive?
Are light primer strikes a concern?
Anything else?
Thank you in advance for any advice.
-Stan
Will the adjustment screw eventually come out or is it captive?
Are light primer strikes a concern?
Anything else?
Thank you in advance for any advice.
-Stan
Might have been mentioned in this thread already, and I know I have seen references to it regarding AW mags in rem 700s, but you may have to knock down these rivets in the 308 mag for reliable feeding of the last round. Seems crazy that tiny bit of interference could stop a round from feeding, but there it is. 1 minute with the 7 axis Dremel tool care of it. And AI, shame on you.
If a suppressor is too complicated for ya I really wouldn't venture into playing with an ai trigger
There is a limit to their adjustment range and it's easy to go to far and then trigger doesn't work and then you need to reset it. Which tbh I find really easy but I also figured out how to shoot supressed soooo
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It's a little brindled but I guess it will do. My wife tells me I have the fashion sense of a rock anyway.
Yep! This is all the stuff I had to do to get them running reliably: https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...at-are-your-feeding-lip-measurements.7207889/
Have 3 of them that are running great now with those specific tweaks, but those little rivet bumps were definitely knocking the feeding off track and making rounds nosedive into the breech face.
The feed lips I can forgive given the various case sizes, but the rivets are just inexcusable. Just source the correct size rivet.
Sorry, I just can't help myself...Dude just said F U to about 85% of the guys in here
* quietly takes off my fde skins for my camo painted....
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I picked up an AT, I read they possibly could be going out of production soon. And I like the thumbhole look and feel. But naively I bought a fixed AT instead of a folding.
I have an AT hinge so I thought it should be easy enough, unscrew some bolts and bolt the new one on. Wrong.
Should of done more homework, I didn't know this part is bonded as well.
What's the best method to change it, heat it up and give it a whack?
I have an AT hinge so I thought it should be easy enough, unscrew some bolts and bolt the new one on. Wrong.
Should of done more homework, I didn't know this part is bonded as well.
What's the best method to change it, heat it up and give it a whack?
Thank you!If a suppressor is too complicated for ya I really wouldn't venture into playing with an ai trigger
There is a limit to their adjustment range and it's easy to go to far and then trigger doesn't work and then you need to reset it. Which tbh I find really easy but I also figured out how to shoot supressed soooo
As a broken watch I am right twice a day.
-Stan
Your best bet is to just scrap the whole idea & sell me the hinge honestly.
I use MAPP gas , a block of wood and a big hammer to debond everything.
Heat it until it smokes and smells like burning hair.
Don’t freak out if the shiny aluminum frame goes flat when it’s hot. Just smear oil on it after it cools. It’ll be shiny again.
Use a good 3mm allen socket to remove the screws. Wait until you heat everything up to remove them. They probably have epoxy on the tapered head and on some of the threads.
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I wanted to quote Functional's post about Jeep Bros (that I eventually edited into the post) but initially necro-quoted your Feb 23 post instead where you had two white jeeps with your rifle. Discovered once posted and changed to Functional's post.
As to why the brother didn't just tap the brakes, I just don't know.
One of my AIs on the 100yd range for zero.
Gratuitous Accuracy International Range 4 picture.
When they only cut the grass from 600 to 1000yds…..
There was so much time to brake or steer away, I just don’t see how you can have a such a lack of skill, maybe they just turned 16?I wanted to quote Functional's post about Jeep Bros (that I eventually edited into the post) but initially necro-quoted your Feb 23 post instead where you had two white jeeps with your rifle. Discovered once posted and changed to Functional's post.
As to why the brother didn't just tap the brakes, I just don't know.
One of my AIs on the 100yd range for zero.
Either the brakes failed (doubtful) or he panicked and stomped on what he thought was the brakes but was the accelerator. Like those folks that claimed their cars had “unintended acceleration” defects after they ran over someone.
They will literally swear on their deathbed that they were on the brakes.
Some freaked out because the floor mats snuck over the gas pedal a little, blipping the throttle and they spazzed.
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