Advice for a new long range hunting rifle build

punter

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Mar 22, 2012
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I'm starting a new build for a long range hunting rifle and I'd like to hear your opinions on a few things...

This rifle will be used for deer, elk, antelope primarily (maybe javelina too... just for kicks). I've got the terrain for long shots out here, so I want to have good long range accuracy. However, I still want to keep the weight down so that I can stalk with it, without being completely miserable, and also because I'll be humping it up into the mountains a lot. Been carrying my .308 with a 24" MTU on it and, despite being a tack driver, it sucks to hump around.

I've decided on .270 Winchester for this build.

I am leaning towards a 24" barrel. I'd prefer not to go any longer than that, as it will become unwieldy... not sure how much shorter I can go and still get the most out of this round. I'd like to hear what you guys who have a lot of experience with the .270 have to say about barrel length.

Contour is another point I'd like to hear your opinions on. I'm thinking about a light straight taper contour... any thoughts?

What are your opinions on fluting? There seem to be some wildly varied opinions on the validity of the claimed benefits... I've never owned a fluted barrel, so its all theoretical to me. The benefits sound logical, but a lot of folks I've spoken with say that the realized benefit is minimal at best. Any of you all have sufficient experience to offer some real insight on this topic?

Lastly, twist rate... 1-10" seems to be the standard twist rate for this caliber, but I'm considering giving a faster twist a try. I've read a few articles and spoken with a couple shooters who've been toying around with faster twist rates (generally with slightly larger calibers) and the results are pretty compelling. Anyone shot the .270 at a faster twist rate? ...maybe a 1-9" or 1-8"? How'd it shoot?

Alright... that's where I'm at right now... any thoughts are appreciated.
 
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If you choose your smith, maybe you could talk some of this over with him. I chose a Bartlein #3. H4831sc has always given me very low SD very close to max pressure in the 270s and 6.5-06s I've had.
 
Fluting costs money and really doesn't save much weight. Is it worth it to you? When it comes to rifles your decision doesn't need to depend on solid reasoning as much as getting what you want a lot of the time.

Are you going to reload? Twist rate would depend on what bullet you are thinking of hunting with. I would start with a bullet that works for you and will be available and build your barrel around that, then fine tune from there.
 
Depends on your definition of long range?

270 isn't going to give you a huge benefit over a 308 in terms of down range power? I would have thought you would need a cartridge capable of delivering a heavier bullet at higher velocity than either of them. 30-06 or a 7mm Magnum??
 
Fluting costs money and really doesn't save much weight. Is it worth it to you? When it comes to rifles your decision doesn't need to depend on solid reasoning as much as getting what you want a lot of the time.

Are you going to reload? Twist rate would depend on what bullet you are thinking of hunting with. I would start with a bullet that works for you and will be available and build your barrel around that, then fine tune from there.

Yeah, that's pretty consistent with what a lot of people have said to me, regarding fluting. I'm not real "emotional" when it comes to designing a rifle; aesthetics and all that aren't a high priority for me. If I'm going to pay a premium for something I want a return on my investment. I think I'll probably stay away from fluting the barrel.

Reload? ...Yes, of course.

I've been reloading the Barnes TTSX and LRX rounds for my .308 and I'm very happy with them. In .270, they only offer 110gr and 130gr (or 129gr for the LRX)... so, I'm covered for javelina, deer and smaller "big" game. Planning on working up loads with the Nosler Accubond and/or Partition for bear, elk and such.
 
Depends on your definition of long range?

270 isn't going to give you a huge benefit over a 308 in terms of down range power? I would have thought you would need a cartridge capable of delivering a heavier bullet at higher velocity than either of them. 30-06 or a 7mm Magnum??

My goal is to have a better hunting rifle than my .308... meaning that I want a lighter rifle that I can stalk with and lug through the mountains with less misery. That said, I still want versatility... I'm staying away from .308, 300WM, 30-06, etc. because I still want to use this rifle for smaller "big" game... Javelina, etc. The .270 Winchester seems to cover the span of game that I want to hunt better than the .30cal and larger bullets. The .270 has plenty of kill power and is a pretty flat shooting round... it seems pretty well suited for my intent.

I'll be honest, I'm not really familiar with a lot of the hunting rounds out there (my background is military, so I'm most familiar with the military rounds). I'll take a look at the 7mm Magnum and the .280 as someone else suggested.
 
punter

Nosler has a 150 gr long range accubond bullit coming out with a G1 BC of .625 that should put the old 270 close to the 7mm mag. Which will be better down range than the 308.
 
I love your idea...and I'm actually doing a build very similar right now. I have a couple 300wm's, a 30.06, and a 6.5x47, which all have their place and use. However they range in weight from 10lbs to 17.5lbs, and are getting a little old to hump around. I wanted to build a light rifle capable of hunting whitetail up to elk. The 270 is perfect. I'm using an Ultralight McMillan hunting stock, a single shot BAT model B action, jewel trigger, and either a #3 or light Palma barrel. Gun including scope should be close to 7lbs. It will be my primary hunting stick when it's done. Why reinvent the wheel? The history of the 270 is well established, and it performs great. I think you'll be pleased with your build
 
This could be a pretty simple "build" if you don't get too crazy with the barrel contour. Rem 700 SPS (stainless mo betta) in .270, bed it in a replacement McM stock, tune trigger to 3 lbs. leupold VX3 3.5-10x in Talley LW lows. done.
 
FWIW
I ditched my 270 for a 280 AI
Mine is a Nosler with a Pacnor lightweight 24" barrel.

I think it gives a little more versatility.
Both caliber a work well obviously and inside say 350 yard make no real difference.
But from 400 out the higher BC 7mm pills help.
The new .277 Nosler 150 LRAB would help I am sure but if your gun doesn't like them there aren't a lot of choices.

Good luck with whatever you choose
 
My goal is to have a better hunting rifle than my .308... meaning that I want a lighter rifle that I can stalk with and lug through the mountains with less misery. That said, I still want versatility... I'm staying away from .308, 300WM, 30-06, etc. because I still want to use this rifle for smaller "big" game... Javelina, etc. The .270 Winchester seems to cover the span of game that I want to hunt better than the .30cal and larger bullets. The .270 has plenty of kill power and is a pretty flat shooting round... it seems pretty well suited for my intent.

I'll be honest, I'm not really familiar with a lot of the hunting rounds out there (my background is military, so I'm most familiar with the military rounds). I'll take a look at the 7mm Magnum and the .280 as someone else suggested.

OK. I would have thought a 30-06 would be more flexible. Same case. At a guess a 168gr bullet will have the same effect as a 270 loading and if you want to move up you can go to 200+gr bullets or down to 100gr (as per 270). 270 is really 110gr to 150gr. I had a 270 and 308 at one time. Sold the 270 as the 308 was more flexible however the 270 really nailed stuff. Pays your money takes your choice.

280 may be a good choice as well, the 7mm bullets still have good weight as you can get 180gr with very good BC's

Still hard to knock the 270. I never had anything get up and run away with the 270
 
I love your idea...and I'm actually doing a build very similar right now. I have a couple 300wm's, a 30.06, and a 6.5x47, which all have their place and use. However they range in weight from 10lbs to 17.5lbs, and are getting a little old to hump around. I wanted to build a light rifle capable of hunting whitetail up to elk. The 270 is perfect. I'm using an Ultralight McMillan hunting stock, a single shot BAT model B action, jewel trigger, and either a #3 or light Palma barrel. Gun including scope should be close to 7lbs. It will be my primary hunting stick when it's done. Why reinvent the wheel? The history of the 270 is well established, and it performs great. I think you'll be pleased with your build

yeah, it looks like we are pretty much on the same page... i'd be interested in hearing how it works out for you, once you've finished the build
 
started looking into the .280ai ...new round for me.
Seems to be worthy of consideration... recommendations for barrel specs? length, contour, and twist?
i've got no experience with this round at all
 
When you say "better hunting rifle" I take it to mean you want something that shoots flatter and in a lighter package than your existing 308.

Correct?

FWIW:
I love the 308 and will always have one.
But I do like for fast action hunting a flatter round. I run a 250 yard zero, with the 140g Accubond going at 3150 FPS. I am +2 at 100 and -3 at 300.

280AI is damned close to a 7 mag with less powder and thus less recoil.

Pretty much a dead hold out to 300 with no need to range, hold or dial for deer or hogs.

My load gets me confidently to 500.
Most of my shots are under 300 so it is just fast and easy.

If I was going to want be constantly wanting longer shots I would move up in bullet weight. I have 150 and 168g long range Accubonds I need to work up loads for.

1-9 twist
24" light profile barely
Nosler brass
IMR4831 powder and Reloader 22 are popular powders.

Check out Nosler site for reloading data
 
I know you're leaning away from the .308 due to wanting to shoot Javelinas, but if you use a not-so-fragile bullet, it will not do unnecessary damage. Nosler Accubond or even 165gr Hornady Interlock will hold together well enough to NOT blow up a Javelina yet will still expand enough to anchor anything you want to shoot. Wound channel from my .270s have exceeded those from my .308s, I'm sure due to the increased impact velocity. Now, I am a .270 fan from waaay back, but if I were in you shoes, already having a heavy .308, I would simply build a lighter .308 for my hunting rig. This will give you the advantage of being intimately familiar with windage and trajectory data since you're already shooting a .308. I prefer #4 or #5 barrels on my hunting rigs. I have simply had much better consistency with them than #2 and #3 barrels, and I've had a few of each. Besides, after humping that MTU around, a #4 or #5 will feel like a featherweight. In a .308, you could go with a 22" barrel and loose a couple more ounces over a 24" barrel. Velocity loss will be insignificant.

If you are dead set on the .270 (It IS a great cartridge), I'd do the same contour barrel, but go with a 9" twist. I suspect that we are going to see more VLD type bullets available for the .270 in the future, and with a 9" twist, you will be able to spin them fast enough and you are not going to suffer any detectable accuracy loss with currently available bullets. I'd go with 24" length in the .270. Larger case capacity than the .308 combined with smaller bore size means a little bit more velocity loss per inch of barrel.

If you want the advantage of a large selection of VLD type bullets right now, consider a .260, 7mm-08 or .280….

Hope this helped a little,

John
 
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good advice as well..
too light of a barrel is a pain to work up loads for..
I had a Sako 85 Finlight 270 and it would start flinging them after 3 rounds even with a 1 minute cool off.
Yes, first round out of a cold bore is the most crucial thing for a hunting rifle..
But still a pain.

My light profile Pacnor on the 280AI doesn't suffer from that for some reason.

BTW, unless I just missed it, I didn't see what you considered long range.. ?
 
I would opt for a 280AI. With the Nosler brass and reloading it is a great option. If I ever build a lightweight hunting platform I think the 280AI will be the way I go.
 
"When you say "better hunting rifle" I take it to mean you want something that shoots flatter and in a lighter package than your existing 308."
-ccoker

Yep, that's exactly what I'm looking for.

Thanks for the responses... especially ccoker and Hondo... very good advice, both of you.

Hondo makes a really good argument for sticking with the .308... all extremely valid points. Considering that I already have the magazines, brass, dies, and a good assortment of bullets (110gr & 150gr TTSX, 175gr LRX, etc), that ALL of my firearms (with the exception of a few collectables I have) are standard military rounds (all NATO rounds, except for the AK), and that I generally like to keep my rifles as uniform/similar as possible, it really makes a lot of sense. From a strictly rational perspective, this seems like the obvious answer. The weird thing is (and this is pretty uncharacteristic of me), the irrational side of me is saying that I've already got two .308s (an AR platform and my bolt action) and I should try something different.

To answer the question that I, admittedly, was trying to avoid... what I consider long range really depends. For target shooting, I'd call 700-1000 meters long range. However, in terms of hunting, it depends on the game and if its static or moving. Best answer I can give you is that on the little white tail we've got out here (or even coyote), if its static and within 300 meters, I'm likely going for a head shot (on moving targets, I'll always go for the vitals). I would feel entirely comfortable taking a 600-700 meter shot at a deer with my current rifle (especially if its a mulie)... maybe longer as I nail my loads down better and get more time behind the trigger with it.

I'm glad to see that you are both recommending a faster twist... I was really leaning in that direction and its good to hear that you've had good results with it.

You all have definitely won me over from the .270 to the .280AI ...I got looking into it a lot and the ballistic advantages (over the .270) aren't all that significant, but there really is a better selection of bullets available for it. Also, I saw that I can get a faster twist rate for a .280 barrel without paying extra money... the barrel makers were only listing 1:10" for the .270 (unless you want to pay extra for a non-standard twist rate).

Now I just need to put some serious thought into whether I should go with the .280AI or just stick with the .308

...and, yeah, fluting is definitely out the window at this point... just haven't seen an argument for it yet.
 
The only + going for the .270 over the .280 or AI is the availability of factory ammo. You can go into any store that sells ammo and find .270 ammo. Could be handy if you air travel to do any of your hunting. If the readily available ammo isn't a concern, then the various 6.5mms and 7mms win hands down, and that's coming from a big .270 fan. As more VLD type .270 bullets become widely available, the difference will narrow.

Of course, there is plenty over the counter .308 stuff available as well...

John
 
Owned many 270s, great round, common ammo, and can handload to great potential. What one can do with a 280, I cannot see NOT doing with a 270, just a few more clicks, perhaps. I'd run 150 Ballistic Tips and the new Long Range AB. Nothing wrong with 140 BTs or ABs. I Always HAD BETTER ACCURACY IN A 150 VS 130 and like the BC/SD. Ran a 150 Partition thru a Mulie lengthwise throat to hind end, ONLY stopping next to hide of rear ham.

7mm like 6 and 6.5s, have great bullet options, they ALL work. A 243 or 243AI 8 twisted and 105s would do all you need, but I would prefer a 6.5 minimum, and love the 260 class rounds, and 6.5x55.

That said, if you pass a 270, and want the 7mm, you might well consider the 7 Rem Mag. More recoil? Sure, but you can buy ammo ready made if you get in a jam. I had a 7RM as my first rifle, and went to the 270 for recoil reduction, now shoot a 260, they all kill, when vitals are punched w/decent bullets.

If Me, I would choose a 7RM if you want the extra oomph and flatter trajectory, and slight but an advantage, again just different # of clicks on your scope on a long shot. EITHER 270 or 7RM, there are too many good factory options for me to justify spending MY $$$$. But, if you want a custom, and plan to handload, the 280 can give you the slight advantages of bullet selection, and a little less recoil than a 7RM, and put another round in the magazine.

Don't sweat it, buy or build a quality rifle, and use bullets of good BC, and learn your rifle/load. There is not a deer/elk around that will walk off from a well placed 270, nor a even a 260 out to the ranges you hunt. A good #2 tube will be better for carrying, esp if you high alot of elevation changes, but a #3 will settle down fast for steady holding on really longish shots. Pick your poison there.

As to the 308, not my cup of tea, rather less recoil for what it does, but it WILL work fine, IF you know your dope, and drop the shot thru vitals. Just more drop/drift to allow for but again, regardless of your chosen round, it will have to be dealt with at long range with turrets or how you hold...
 
I've been around the block a few times. The first rifles I built, I picked components based on what was "cool" at the time. Don't get me wrong, I love the rifles. But humping a 17lb winmag in a McMillan A3-5 stock with a 26in heavy varmint barrel, and a 28oz optic on it to hunt deer to 300yds really doesn't make sense. It's not the "right tool for the job". If you want a hunting gun, build one. Don't build a tactical style gun and think your going to love hunting with it. You may hate it. Also, wild cats and a slew of new calibers are "cool" at the moment. Try walking into a hardware store and buy some 6.5 creedmore bullets because you lost yours hiking in or something. I'd imagine you'd get some awkward looks. For me, now, I'll hunt with what's been proven and is common. The 30.06, .270, etc...just my opinion though. I used to use all the wildcats and crap, but I kept asking myself "why". To each his own...
 
Agree. The same gun that you don't give a second thought carrying to the range, all of a sudden becomes a boat anchor whenever you carry it hunting and try to use it shooting from field positions.

yep... thats exactly what inspired this whole project.

btw: a question for all you .280AI guys out there... who makes a good set of dies for that round? i looked on the forster site (most of my dies are forster) and didn't see that caliber listed.
 
What do you think you will gain from a 280ai vs a 270? For example...shooting at a bull mule deer or elk at 500yds? And if anything, do you think it's worth having to blow out brass and turn case necks for a hunting gun? Just asking
 
First of all, I am a crazy mad 270 fan. I have 13 different ones. I also own 2 280 AI's and quite a few others, 7 mag, 7 Dakota, 308's etc. That said I prefer my 270's for hunting. I have taken all the game you list, with a 270 and it sure ain't lacking on killing power. I typically use 140 gr. bullets or 130 gr Barnes's. I prefer a 25" barrel all else being equal, but a 22 works fine and a 24 sure does. My favorite rig is a Re-stocked (in a Serengeti stock) with a no. 1 Krieger at 24" on Sako 75 action. I have killed all the critters mentioned with this stick. I would not build the AI's if I had to do it over again--if I was a bullet nut and I had to have a 7 I would just go with a regular 280. The 280 AI is sneaky on pressure issues--meaning you don't have them at all at x grains and then you go up .5gr and blown primer. Also dies are $$$, I have some Hornady New Dimension which aren't that costly, but I also have a set of Reddings which were some bucks. I think your original choice for caliber is great (obviously) and I wouldn't be concerned at all about the bullet selection available. From experience I can tell you if built right, a lighter contour barrel doesn't hold you back on accuracy. My 24" #1 contour is a hammer!

If I was going to be focused on true long range shooting, say past 500 yards, I would look at new LRAB's from Nosler or the new Long range TSX's.

Good luck with your new rig.
 
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What do you think you will gain from a 280ai vs a 270? For example...shooting at a bull mule deer or elk at 500yds? And if anything, do you think it's worth having to blow out brass and turn case necks for a hunting gun? Just asking

Honestly, I see no significant advantage in terms of external or terminal ballistics.
I did think about having to form brass, but nosler offers .280ai brass off the shelf... so arguement is moot.
.270 Has better off the shelf ability but i handload and can hunt anything I want in driving distance.
.280 has a better selection of bullets in the same make/model that I'm shooting already. Yes, I can get what I need by switching brands.
barrel makers offer faster twist rates for .280 Than .270 However i can pay extra and get a faster twist.
with .270 Or .280 I'm buying new mags, dies, brass, etc... no advantage to either.
 
I have a 7mm Dakota that has about the most bang you can get out of a long action while running the 300 Win Mag AI magazines. After a little work to the magazine you can get the 7mm Dakota to feed well from the accurate mag 300 win magazine and when you seat a 7mm 180 grain berger in the case it fits well in the mag and you can chase the lands as the barrel wears. I have been able to put 5 loaded 7mm Dakota cases in that mag and they all feed great. Like you and others have mentioned the bullet selection for the 7mm (.284 diameter) is better. For hunting rigs I like to hunt with a rifle that doesn't have a brake but that's not always obtainable if you want to go after the big critters. I've seen guys shooting a 270 at the range and can't get a 3 shot group under 3 inches cause they are flinching so bad. If I was you I'd build a 6.5 Saum and be done building guns cause it will do it all and it will do it in a short action with decent barrel life. I would suggest a #5 contour or smaller, put a brake on it, find a chassis or stock that's around 3lbs, with a Nightforce 5.5-22x50 it should weigh right around 11lbs. With a lighter scope and smaller contour barrel it will even weigh less since most of your rifle weight comes from the barrel.

If you are really wanting to build off a long action look at a case that will fill up the mag so it will pay off at long range. The 7mm LRM that Gunworks offers will almost do what the 7mm Dakota will do. 300 win mag is an option as well if you don't mind belted cases, same with the 7mm mag. Shooting at an animal out past 1k is really risky unless you know the area and have shot there before. Conditions have to be just right for anything past 1k in my opinion. At 1k @5500 feet elevation the 7mm Dakota delivers the 180 grain with 18.4 moa (100 yard zero) and in a 3mph wind .7 moa drift time of flight is 1.19 seconds with 1662 ft-lbs of energy. With a 6.5 Saum it will deliver the 140 amax with 19.9 moa (100 yard zero) in 3mph wind .9 moa drift, time of flight is 1.215 seconds and kinetic energy is 1168 ft-lbs which is still plenty of energy to kill an elk. Idk that's my 2 cents, hope that helps with your decision.
 
Any of you all have personal experience with Stiller and/or Pierce Actions? I'd love to hear your opinions if you've owned an action made by one (or both) of these companies.
 
I just got my custom gun finished. I had a lot of the same goals you did I ended up with a 7mm mag specs below

Hi Tech stock
Rem700 action with all the good stuff
Sako Extractor
3 position safety
Spiral bolt
Shillen #2 counter barrel 24 inch
all metal Teflon coated
Swarovski scope
all said and done gun comes in right at 7lbs
 

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That is a very nice looking rifle... and just in time for the long weekend :-D

Can't wait to hear how it shoots. Post up some groups once you've gotten a load worked up for it.
 
Well, after a whole lot of internal debate and online research... I decided that I'm going to follow hondo's advice and stick with .308 Winchester for this build. Ultimately, I recognize that both the .270 and .280ai have something to offer over the .308, but the .308 will give me satisfactory results for everything I intend to do with it... And there are plenty of light bullets available for javelina.

Figuring out DBM and magazines was just beginning to frustrate the hell out of me, and served as a constant reminder of how much I value the uniformity and inter compatibility of my other rifles. Plus, I'll end up saving near to $500 by not having to get set up with another caliber (brass, dies, magazines, etc.)... So, I can put that towards a good scope for it.

So, I ordered up all the major components and will hopefully have it together in about 6-9 months.

Stiller Precision action and DBM.
Bartlein 20" sendaro contour, with 1:8" twist
McMillan A3 Edge stock
Jewell trigger
Already got a set of Seekins rings that I'll be able to use on it

Scoped, it'll definitely be below 12lbs... Maybe even below 11lbs.
 
Punter, did you give the .260 Rem any consideration? It wasn't brought up here much but it has great ballistics and because it retains so much velocity it also carries energy pretty well.

You can use your .308 brass, just neck it down. Really all you'd need is dies and bullets. Still in a short action, uses .308 mags. Hell you could use the same mags as your .308's as long as you use the same Bottom metal.

.260 Rem is not hard on barrel life though barrel life is rarely a concern on a hunting rifle.
 
Ok, I am confused:
1- LR hunting in a 20" 308? Don't get me wrong I love my .308 even a bit past 1K but not for hunting, and I use a 26" pipe.
2- I love jewel triggers have quit a few, but NOT for hunting. They don't like a ton of grit and generally are very light. At some point you'll run, crawl or creep with a loaded gun when hunting, in brush, rocks or muck.
3 - 1:8 is really fast for a 308. Speed plus high BC give you down range energy. Maybe you think lobbing heavy pills are the ticket. But something in the 175 grain might be a better blend of energy.
4. Sendero contour is the varmint contour. It isn't light. But nice :)


Jt

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I've been doing a lot of reading on barrel length and long range accuracy. While the common belief is that you need 24-26" for good long range performance, the research just doesn't support it. There are a lot of guys out there running 20" and even 18" barrels on their .308 Winchester rifles and still getting consistently good hits out to and past 1k meters. That said, I'm not taking 1000m shots at game. At 20" I can go with a thicker contour and have a stiffer barrel, without loss of velocity, and keep the weight reasonable.
Here is a good article I came across on the subject of barrel length:
SWAT Article BARREL LENGTH

I've got a jewel trigger on my tactical rifle... haven't had any issues with it. I run a 2.5 lb pull and have had it out in the weather without any problems.

Yes, 1:8" is very fast... and, again, despite the fact that this goes against "common knowledge" it works quite well. Its not going to make a bit of difference at short range, but it will give better groups at range. Faster twist = better gyroscopic stability... better stability = less oscillation/yaw (particularly in transonic and subsonic ranges)... less oscillation/yaw = less drag (meaning you will retain more BC at range). In the end, better groups and less hold at distance. Like I said before, I'm not going to be taking 1000m shots at game... however, the better long range accuracy will be welcome for settling pissing contests with hunting buddies and/or winning beer shoots. Its also a good opportunity for me to play around with the faster twist... so I can see where I want to go with my true "long range rifle" when its time to re-barrel it. There is a great article by Todd Hodnett, in "Sniper" about faster twist rates if you want to read up on his research.

The sendaro contour will give me about the same weight as a #4 contour. I could lose another 1.5lbs by going to a #2... or maybe even 2lbs by going to a #1, but I don't want a whippy barrel. Even with the sendaro contour, I'll be below 12lbs for certain... maybe even below 11lbs. I will be perfectly happy with that.
 
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Punter, did you give the .260 Rem any consideration? It wasn't brought up here much but it has great ballistics and because it retains so much velocity it also carries energy pretty well.

You can use your .308 brass, just neck it down. Really all you'd need is dies and bullets. Still in a short action, uses .308 mags. Hell you could use the same mags as your .308's as long as you use the same Bottom metal.

.260 Rem is not hard on barrel life though barrel life is rarely a concern on a hunting rifle.

I actually did give it a lot of thought. Initially, I was up between the .260 and the .270. Its a great round, but I ended up leaning toward the .270 (oddly enough, for reasons that I ended up throwing out when I started considering the .280AI). To be honest, I can see why there is so much debate about these rounds... they're all great rounds and each one has a lot to offer. In the end, simple practicality won out for me. I'm already completely set up for .308, I know the round very well, and it will do everything I want it to do.
 
As a handloader, you should look closely at a 6.5-06. A fluted 24" Remington contour barrel around .750 or so at the muzzle should be light enough to pack yet still give you plenty velocity. Couple that with a mountain rifle hs stock, should be what you're looking for.
 
A couple of points:

- I have 18.5", 20" and 26" the 20" is over 100fps slower using the same action. Believe it or not, there IS a difference in group size at 1000 - 1200y, the shorter thus stiffer barrel, may have a theoretical benefit, but you load to your barrel's harmonics anyway. I can tell zero practical difference other than my 26" is more accurate with less wind deflection past about 600m.

- I guess LR is relative. However, you are talking about subsonic accuracy, so I must assume your talking past 1k with the 308. - When shooting way out there, you might have 1 degree of angle. While your math is impressive, an over stabilized bullet will try to retain is angle of departure. Thus causing a nose up angle of attack on the way down. This can negatively effect the flight thru the transonic zone. The trick is to use the correct twist to maintain gyroscopic stability without grossly over stabilizing (my comment only pertains to extremely high angles 12-20 mils and transonic entry) your round if you are truly looking for predictable flight back into subsonic speeds. If you question the wisdom of this, look into why the 408 Chey Tac "system" (bullet and rifling) is such a precision ELR round and pushing accurately to distances not thought possible.

- I also got say again, since the title was about LR hunting; LR hunting with a .308 isn't the best in my option and I am a .308 fan.

PS edited to include: for long range hunting you have seen a lot of good caliber suggestions..


Jt

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JT, I appreciate your input and your points are well taken. That said, and I don't want to appear argumentative, but your arguments go both ways...


You have experienced a loss of 100fps between these four barrel lengths, while using the same action. OK, my question is, "how well did you control the variables when comparing the muzzle velocity of each barrel length?"

Were you changing out barrels in an effort to compare the muzzle velocity between the different barrel lengths, or are you comparing historical data that you have from different barrels which were mounted on your action? In other words, was this a structured test?
Were all of the rounds fired the same kind of ammunition, and were they from the same lot? If they were hand loaded, did you check the calibration of your scale before loading each lot and were your components identical between lots?
Most importantly, were all rounds fired (between each barrel) under the same environmental conditions?

The fact of the matter is, a variation of 100fps can easily come from any number of variables... most notably a simple change in temperature.


So far as whether or not the IS a difference is group size at range between barrel lengths (all other things remaining equal)... until I see the results of a structured test, where all the variables have been controlled as much as possible, this claim is also theoretical. I do not dispute that a longer barrel will allow you to use more of a slower burning powder, which can increase velocity and result in small groups down range. That said, the .308 Winchester cartridge will only hold so much powder. The bottom line is, I have seen guys hitting 10" targets well in excess of 1000m with 20" barrels and I've seen published accounts as well as video of guys hitting 10" steel at ranges over 1000m with 18" barrels. Heck, Todd Hodnett recounts hitting targets (silhouette width not specified) out to 1 mile with a 14" barrel (1:8 twist), in his article on twist rates. Could there be a difference? ...sure. Is a 20" barrel going to provide excellent long range accuracy? ...yeah, I'm confident that it will.

And, yes, you load to your barrels harmonics. That said, a thicker barrel offers less flex and less variation. Less significant vibration = easier to find and load to the sweet spot and less variation if you come out of the sweet spot (i.e. change in MV due to change in environmental conditions)... in other words, more forgiving. Less variation = better consistency. Consistency = accuracy.


So far as your comment, "I guess LR is relative." Not quite sure where you're going with that... one could easily interpret that as a bit of a venomous remark... but, I'm going to leave it alone. That said, regardless of your definition of long range... I doubt too many (if any) of the folks on this site would condone taking shots an excess of 1000m (or more likely 800m) at game, regardless of the caliber you're shooting. Guys feel free to correct me on that if I'm making a false assumption. For me, shots at 1000m or longer (with this rifle) will not be taken at game and will be for entertainment and bragging rights. I've already got a gun set up for shooting 1000m plus... I'm not trying to build another.


In respect to over-stabilization... While I recognize that this is a commonly held belief, I'm not buying it. Your argument makes sense in theory, but I don't see it in practice. Do some comparisons on a sheetrock target at range with the "accepted" twist rate and with a faster twist rate (using the same ammunition). Look at the holes each of the rounds puts in the sheetrock and see if you can find any more evidence of yaw or a nose up angle of attack in the faster twist than in the slower... I'll bet you don't.

The fact of the matter is: the formula used to determine "optimal" twist rates is antiquated and does not take into account the advances that have been made in bullet technology. Many of the newer bullets on the market will not only handle a faster twist, but some may actually require it to truly see the potential of that projectile. You can throw all the theory you want at me, I'm seeing evidence to the contrary. Tell me how a shooter can fire a 16 round group that measured less than 4", at a 1000m target, shooting a .308 Winchester with a 1:7.8 twist, if the round is "over-stabilized"... and this was a tactical rifle, not a bench rest gun.

To completely blow a hole in your theory, I'm going to quote something from Todd Hodnett's article for you: "While shooting the 1:7.8 .308 rifle in my class, I noticed the drop at 1300 meters was only .3 off the normal supersonic algorithm, and the 1:11 twist barrels have an average of about 1 mil deviation from the supersonic algorithm at range. The standard twist will show more than 3-4 times more loss in gyroscopic stability at these ranges. This is more than 200 meters into subsonic flight, but we are getting better groups up close as well."

Frankly, I'm not seeing the relevance of the Chey Tac argument... we're talking about an entirely different caliber. I'm not looking to build an anti-material rifle. Plus, I've read up on the Chey Tac and it looks impressive... then, I've also read some articles debunking the Chey Tac's superiority. Who's right? I don't know... don't really care either at this point. I'll look more into that when I decide to build a large caliber, ultra-long range rifle.


In the end, YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT... the .308 is not the optimal caliber for a long range hunting rifle... and I have never made any claim to the contrary. In fact, I think I acknowledged that fact in a couple of my posts. I chose to go with the .308, despite the fact that (in my opinion and in the opinion of probably everyone here) there are many calibers which will outperform it for this purpose. I simply decided that I don't want to get set up for another caliber, when considering that the .308 is fully capable (though not optimal) of doing everything that I want it to do. In the end, it was a decision of cost vs. benefit... while there is undoubtably a benefit to using a different caliber, FOR ME (at this point in time), it isn't worth the cost.

So, I do want to make the point that I appreciate everyone's advice and input... to be sure, it was a learning experience for me. As I said before, I was not at all familiar with the hunting and wildcat calibers before I started this project.
 
I'll answer two questions because I am growing tired.

I know the velocity loss is relative because I had loaded loads that have single digit ES into a 700 that was 26" cut it crowned it then did it again making a pig gun same barrel, same action same batch of ammo, over the same chronograph.

The CT is an ELR precision round - it is absolutely relevant. If you take the time to understand it, or actually shoot ELR you might have a different vantage point.

To tired.



Jt

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Well, I apologize for subjecting you to such tedium.
...oh, wait, that's right... I didn't subject you to anything. You subjected yourself to it.

Please forgive me if I don't bow down and hail praise to the almighty word of Diver160651. Clearly, no one can possibly match the superior intellect or base of knowledge that you possess. What a fool I must be to think that the owner of Accuracy First might know SOMETHING about long range shooting! What do you say we make a deal... you stick to your beliefs and I'll stick to mine. Last I knew, I wasn't spending your money on this rifle build.
 
I've been through this same deal as I wanted a long range hunting rig, but also a target gun. I ended up with this:

Stiller tac30
Bartlein sendero/varmint 1:8 6.5 chambered in 260 rem
McMillan HTG
Aics type bottom metal, etc
It's a shooter and it's pretty light at about 10 lbs

 
I've been through this same deal as I wanted a long range hunting rig, but also a target gun. I ended up with this:

Stiller tac30
Bartlein sendero/varmint 1:8 6.5 chambered in 260 rem
McMillan HTG
Aics type bottom metal, etc
It's a shooter and it's pretty light at about 10 lbs


Nice! Thats really close to what I think I'm going to end up with.

What do you think about the Stiller Tac30? ...that's the same action I ordered. I've heard good things about it, but I've got no personal experience with it.
 
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At the beginning of this year i had a semi custom Sako built in 280 Ackley Improved ,
Specs are Sako 75 IV action / Mcmillan sako varmint stock / Border barrel - senduro contour - 26 inch long with 1 in 8.5 twist / Ukgunworks recoil lug , action screws and tactical bolt knob , all work done by Ukgunworks!!
I ordered some Newlon precision blank dies and had them cut with the same reamer ( great guys to deal with too )
I am using Nosler custom 280 Ack brass , and running the 162 A-max at 3025fps with great accuracy!!
Here she is..............

All the best ,
Ray.
 
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Nice! Thats really close to what I think I'm going to end up with.

What do you think about the Stiller Tac30? ...that's the same action I ordered. I've heard good things about it, but I've got no personal experience with it.

It turned out just perfect for dual purpose.

In my opinion for the money this is the nicest custom out there. It's about as cheap as tricking out a remington action, but morr future, nice fit and finish, and nice ptg one piece bolt. I really like it.

You won't be able to build a 280 on it though. Although a .284win with 160g class bullets may be perfect if u want something in 7mm.
 
It turned out just perfect for dual purpose.

In my opinion for the money this is the nicest custom out there. It's about as cheap as tricking out a remington action, but morr future, nice fit and finish, and nice ptg one piece bolt. I really like it.

You won't be able to build a 280 on it though. Although a .284win with 160g class bullets may be perfect if u want something in 7mm.

Sweet, I should have the action and DBM in the next week or so. It'll be a while until I can start the build though... stock and barrel are on order, so it'll be a good four-six months until I see them. Gonna be a long six months looking at that stripped action sitting in the safe.
 
At the beginning of this year i had a semi custom Sako built in 280 Ackley Improved...

...I ordered some Newlon precision blank dies and had them cut with the same reamer ( great guys to deal with too )...

All the best ,
Ray.

Beautiful rifle!

The idea of having a set of custom dies cut when the barrel gets chambered had occurred to me, but I dismissed it thinking that it would be ungodly expensive. Suppose I should have looked further into it. Roughly what did that run you, if you don't mind my asking (the blank dies and having them cut)?
 
WTF -I questioned your use of a twist 1:8 in a 308 that is great for heavy pills, because you said you wanted a a LR hunting gun and wanted to shoot light weight bullets too. I said using the proper twist for the task is key for transitioning. Never questioned AF's ability to get people to shoot better or hit steel or the founders ability. Did I question your interpretation? Sure so what, I also questioned some of the things you put together that might make a great gun, just not a great LR HUNTER, does that make me an ass?

Then I replied said I was to tired....ya, I was tired and didn't want to type . So f'ng what? Your response shows your character


Jt

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Whatever dude...

You can try to attack my character all you want... my last response was completely appropriate to the attitude you were throwing out in your last couple posts.

I'm all for debate when it comes to the intricacies and technical aspects of ballistics and marksmanship. I like these kinds of debates, it provides an opportunity for everyone (with an open mind) to learn something... because the fact of the matter is, NO ONE has all the answers. That said, I'm not going to be spoken to like an ignorant putz, by you or anyone else.

What you're claiming to have said (above) is not a very accurate reflection of what was contained in your previous posts... perhaps this is what you meant, but it ain't what you typed.

So, to address the point you are, now, bringing up... Hodnett realized that if his theory on faster twist rate was to be truly validated, it would need to work for all the bullets in the military inventory. So, he tested the 1:7.8 with everything from the 128gr on up to 175gr, and even the 200gr sub-sonic. ALL performed very well.

Did he go all the way down to 110gr, which is one of the bullet weights that I would like to play with? No, but I'm willing to test that on my own. If my group loosens up a little with the 110gr bullets, I'm ok with that. Its still likely to be plenty good for pig hunting... and if not, I can bump up a little in bullet weight. Bottom line: the faster twist isn't just for heavier bullets, it shoots lighter bullets well too.

You are right in saying, "I also questioned some of the things you put together that might make a great gun, just not a great LR HUNTER." However, if you read my previous posts, you'd know that I openly admitted that some of my choices were going to compromise long range performance, to some degree (mainly caliber choice), and I also explained why I made those choices. The fact of the matter (like I've said repeatedly) is that this is not an OPTIMAL set up for long range hunting... it is, however, going to be be perfectly sufficient for long range hunting and accomplish everything that I want it to.

Does it make you an ass to point out ways to improve performance? No. Does continuing to push the issue (and taking what appeared to be a condescending tone while you were at it), after someone has made a decision and acknowledged relevant limitations/shortcomings, make you an ass? Yes, I'd say it does.

Further, you took a very pompous and condescending tone while we "debated" each relevant point (barrel length, twist rate, caliber)... and you've maintained it straight through your last post (insinuating that I am "misinterpreting" Hodnett's findings... I'll refrain from the expletives that I'd like to insert here and simply say that I'm not a moron). So, does that make you an ass? Yes.

Look, I've read some of your posts on other threads. You've obviously got a good base of knowledge and ability and I'm not trying to take that away from you... but, you don't know everything. I'm sure you possess a wealth of information, and I have no doubt that I could probably learn a thing or two from you. However, you are very staunch in your opinions (which is your right, if that's the way you want to be) and you could probabaly learn a thing or two if you'd be a little more open minded.

In the end it all comes down to this... I my opinion, you really need to put more effort into crafting your posts, to ensure that you are indeed conveying the point that you intend to convey and in a more respectful manner. Take it for what it is... one man's opinion.