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American Rifle Company New Archimedes Action, New Xylo Chassis, and major Mausingfield revision
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
Glad to see the fix should be a quick thing. Im waiting on mine to ship and i assume it's held up from this delay. That said i can't wait and as soon as it gets here it's going straight to mcmillan for them to do their thing for it
I been playing around with all of the triggers that I can find in the shop. Thus far, I've been able to determine the following trigger-sear working relationships:
Trigger Tech diamond, 0.055" sear
Trigger Tech black, 0.055" sear
Factory Rem 700, 0.055" sear
Timney Hit, 0.055" sear
Bix'n Andy Tac Sport Pro, 0.035" sear
Tubb T7, 0.035" sear
Ted
Trigger Tech diamond, 0.055" sear
Trigger Tech black, 0.055" sear
Factory Rem 700, 0.055" sear
Timney Hit, 0.055" sear
Bix'n Andy Tac Sport Pro, 0.035" sear
Tubb T7, 0.035" sear
Ted
...but Ted doesn't have a cocaine habit!
Anyhow, in regard to picking nits on this issue, I can say that in my case, I cannot close my action with the (Calvin Elite) trigger installed. Granted, I have only attempted to close it while holding the action in one hand (rather than having it installed in a stock, etc...), and attempting to close the bolt with the other. As I described it to the folks at ARC when I spoke to them, I'm not "white gloving" the action (treating it excessively gently), but neither am I beating the hell out of it. So, at least for me, the issue is more serious than a "bump on close" kind of thing.
That said, I am confident that ARC will get me taken care of.
Thank for the vote of confidence. It really is an easy fix. If you we're to put your action in a stock and cycle the bolt quickly, I bet you'd find that it would close and you might not feel the interactions between the cocking piece and the top sear of the trigger and between the bolt shroud locking pin and the receiver.
And if you're curious, you can try running the bolt without the bolt shroud locking pin in place. It's easy to remove and does not required disassembly of the bolt.
To remove the bolt shroud locking pin, push it back into the shroud and rotate the shroud clockwise (right handed action) until the locking pin can pop into the cocking cam of the bolt body. Make sure you remove the spring as well. Once both pin and spring have been removed, rotate the shroud counter-clockwise back to its original position before you try putting the bolt back into the receiver.
I made a short video of the removal procedure.
Ted
The example machine work looks great, frankly, I wouldn't mind if you took it all the way down to the 0.700" diameter step to avoid contact with the sear. Did you change nitride finishing vendors, the finish on the parts above looks quite a bit different than what I've got on hand, are the receiver and bolt body both salt bath FNC QPQ?
While it's in your shop can you evaluate the leveraged portion of extraction, as best as I can tell on my example it's ~0.031", I have 0.125" take up at the big end of the bolt handle before the leverage starts. With tolerance stacking, I'm wondering if it's enough to ensure positive extraction?
Earlier I had removed the cocking piece and shroud to read the specification inscription, with these out of the way it appears the system would be capable of up to 0.070" leveraged extraction if the small end of the bolt handle had some more meat on it, I know it's not reasonable to shoot for the full amount but it would seem easily doubled with a shallower setback on the face of the lever that interacts with the receiver.
There is a guy selling some brand new for 1200 in the Firearms for sale section. Killer deal
I spoke with Justin on Friday as I have a LA on order and he stated that they should be getting the invoices out for them sometime this week.
EDIT: Speak of the devil I just got the invoice at 18:40 so it’s all paid up and forwarded to my FFL so now I’m back to waiting again.
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Yep. Me too. Have to get my fll to send info, but all paid now.
Am I supposed to order a 1.125 or 1.250 breach barrel for 338NM? Never done this before and the website sort of indicates 1.20 minimum??? The drawing doesn’t really have that dimension either.
Am I supposed to order a 1.125 or 1.250 breach barrel for 338NM? Never done this before and the website sort of indicates 1.20 minimum??? The drawing doesn’t really have that dimension either.
Nope, but I returned mine for a full refund on my dime.
I emailed today and was told I should receive a label today....... We will see. I tried my Geissele trigger last night and there is no way in hell you could even hammer the bolt closed. From looking at Ted's pictures I think the Geissele is going to need more taken off the bolt than what is currently planned. I'm sending my whole action in with the trigger. Hope to have a rifle before November.
Just got mine as well. Mailed it back (along with my trigger) so will update when I get it back.
I tried my Trigger Tech Diamond with my action and it was a no go on bolt close. I sent both back, trigger and action. I am confident that the folks at ARC will have that thing working smooth as a babies ass. Will post results.
I decided to have ARC replace the cocking piece for "no cocking on close". I figure if I wanted to cocking on close I will buy the 780/55 cocking piece. Saves me time and money on figuring out which size is need to remove the cocking on close.
I can see why you would say that. I have four M5s and it's my favorite action. I just took a good look at the M7 though and that thing is definitely innovative. I don't think I've seen anything like half of the features on there. It looks like a better setup for a hunting rifle than the original M5. I would guess that if you're interested in another M5, you can find one.
The M5 is one of the best custom actions built in recent times IMO. I love mine, and have a few other custom actions to compare it to.
It's certainly underrated, but I think part of the problem is people don't pair it with the proper trigger (trigger timing) to see it's full potential. When people say they don't like it because it has a "heavy bolt lift" I automatically know they didn't pair the trigger properly. Mines every bit as light as an Impact/LP Fuzion.
Never had my hands on any other ARC actions. Glad the trigger thing is being sorted out for everyone.
FWIW, I have at least a dozen SA, RH, Gen 1 Mausingfields on the floor ready right now. These have the internal box features for the hinged floor plate along with an "open architecture" loading port for top loading an ADL/BDL format. They'll also accept DBM setups.
These actions were special order pieces I did last year with ARC. They are "in the white" for coating in whatever you'd like. Bolts are nitrided.
Happy to help
These actions were special order pieces I did last year with ARC. They are "in the white" for coating in whatever you'd like. Bolts are nitrided.
Happy to help
That is absolutely true. Mine is a 300 Norma and it runs like butter. Bolt lift is as good as my impact and it closes smoother than the impact it feels like it closes itself. I hated to see the Mausingfield loose it’s keyed rail, at least they left the recoil lug alone. Maybe the new version is better but I like everything about the m5
Honestly to me it looks like the Archimedes is taking the Mausingfields spot as the flagship tactical action while the Mausingfield is being moved over to the high end hunting market with the hinged floor plate compatibility and optional pic rail.
Also the way it looks the rail slides on from the rear and is held in place by the screws so unless the screws completely fail there is no way for it to move.
Anyone recieved shipping info in the last couple days. I know in one of his posts ted said thru were going to resume shipping the end of this week. Just curious since mine was one that was paid for from the invoice email and was just waiting shipment when all this came up about the bolt modifications
I was able to stop in at ARC today for them to replace my bolt. What a huge difference when closing the bolt. It's so much smoother and no more binding. Thumbs up to the boys at ARC for getting this done for me. I'll be shooting my second match tomorrow with the Archimedes. So far I'm extremely happy that it runs so flawlessly. Thanks again Ted and Justin.
I've got both side by side and they feel almost the same to be honest. But the closing on Archimedes feels way lighter and smoother.
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I'm curious if there will lighter firing pin springs available. The included 30 pound spring is probably foolproof, and covers everything. However I'd like to experiment to see how light it can go with my setup and still be reliable. The heavy bolt lift after firing has been what most folks complain about after trying mine.
Edit: ignore that, I had M7 in my head as the Archimedes not M3.
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- Feb 15, 2017
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Question for verification about the Archimedes: Compared to the Nucleus, I noticed that it doesn't have the removable recoil lugs; one flat for a standard barrel, one beveled for using the BARLOC system. Does this mean that the Archimedes is not compatible with Nucleus barrels cut with a shoulder for the BARLOC w/o nut?
I understand that a standard Savage Pre-fit will still work with the traditional BARLOC w/nut or a Savage style barrel nut.
I understand that a standard Savage Pre-fit will still work with the traditional BARLOC w/nut or a Savage style barrel nut.
You just need to select "Washer" when ordering the Barloc. The washer is the bevel the Barloc colar tightens against on the receiver side. The Nucleus lug has the bevel machined into it.
- Feb 15, 2017
- 29
- 39
Tracking all about the BARLOC portion, thank you.
I'm really getting at if I have to get a new barrel for the Archimedes or not, since I am swapping the Nucleus for my new Archimedes in my match gun. I have a shouldered prefit barrel from PVA for a Nucleus with BARLOC. If the Archimedes doesn't have the beveled recoil lug of the Nucleus will the headspace remain the same if you use the beveled washer on each end of the Barloc? It doesn't appear so according to the BARLOC pdf (images "without lug" and "with lug") on the ARC site.
Can you guys explain trigger timing, or what needs to be done to "time" it? I am fairly new to this game, I have an M5 and a Nucleus, the Nuc seems to run smoother.
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