Oh, so you’re actually not as smart as you pretend to be on the internet.
Last edited:
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Anneal every time = consistent?
- Thread starter SlowMiss6.5
- Start date
Man, standard boiler plate anneal this thread. Where as a bunch of posters worry about everything under the sun exept the target. The target is nearly completely disregarded, and if it is mentioned it's only as an anecdote.
Or we never even see the target. Just line graphs.
That's all we need if he is just illustrating a lack of velocity change over firings without annealing.
Ahh deflection. We aren’t talking about targets. We’re talking about reloads. And if you can’t understand how those graphs and numbers affect long range shooting I can’t help you. But even when I post targets you find ways to dismiss them.
I don’t know shit about shooting targets. Just reloading. Let’s see how you guys dismiss this
Attachments
How would you know? You’re mediocre at reloading and shooting. (Thats why you never post anything - and we don’t care about your 100 yard paper targets
)
Are you DBDs twin brother? You just want to argue with everyone....
Because everyone is just telling people to anneal with no proof and no suggestion they know what they’re doing reloading. You didn’t need to see targets to know that I’m shooting a very high level but there Now you have them. don’t play defensive because they weren’t what you expected when you showed up to say prove it with targets.
Please argue how having your brass in a perpetually different state every resizing is consistent.
Brass life really comes down to primer pockets. Annealing doesn't help that at all. The only thing annealing will help when it comes to brass life is split necks. Outside of fireforming Dasher brass I haven't had a split neck on a piece of brass in probably 8-10 years
Look at my chronos. If that was true after 6x firings I shouldn’t still have es/ sd better than you who is annealing. But that’s not true…..
Damn @FredHammer got the hell out of here once people started asking about proof of anything.
I’ve been having problems with neck splits on 6.5 cases in as short as 5 firings. Since I don’t load max loads, I have never had an issue with primer pockets. So worrying with loose primer pockets is a moot point if the brass is split from the mouth to the shoulder. Since annealing at each reloading session, maybe I will get to the this loose primer pockets everyone seems so concerned about. Especially since I am no longer having problems with my 6.5 and 6 brass having premature neck splits.
Using Lapua and Starline In the 6.5. No real difference in amount of splits. Gosh, Its been so long, I did not know Federal even sold brass anymore. Alpha and GAP in the GT, but no issues with either.
If this is true, you are the only person in the world getting split necks on Lapua brass in five firings. Or even 15.
You've got to be making that up. What are you using a 248 bushing in your sizing die before mandreling it back up to 6.5?
I've got a few Lapua 6BR cases at home with split shoulders after 1 firing. I could tell exactly which ones were going to split before I even fired them. There were wrinkles in them visible from the outside. I'm not the only one either.
We're talking about normal wear and tear, not defective cases. I've had defective cases as well. I do not consider that to be a case example of necks splitting due to normal wear and tear on an otherwise serviceable case. You're just being a contrarion and playing the AKSHUALLY game
20 firing. Annealed every time. Average velocity is always the same. First shot on this barrel is historically and documented slow. It says in the data set anyway. 60 shots. An actual sample size. Go fuck yourself.
I don’t make up shit. However, would you people please realize that this is all in the past. And would each and everyone please quit obsessing over a problem I WAS having and am NO longer having.
first - lol at using a magneto speed. im not sure why you feel it so necessary to attack not annealing when I can clearly demonstrate that it's a viable solution to shooting groups with very low SD. I'm not going to claim if you hadn't annealed your groups would be better but for you to continuously say that the change in neck consistency negatively impacts performance flies in the face of the evidence presented here.
I will say it again - the amp annealer is the only annealer that could improve brass quality or life. Annealing with an amp has the ability to improve longevity in brass. A new reloader has no business getting into annealing when they aren't reloading at a very high level - and then the only annealing that makes sense is the amp.
To be fair, factory annealing (even from places like Lapua and Alpha) is fairly inconsistent. You can easily see it using an AMP press with factory annealed and AMP annealed virgin brass.
However, it's likely not enough to matter to most people. And there are definitely other methods of annealing that work. Hence why other industries don't universally use induction annealing.
However, it's likely not enough to matter to most people. And there are definitely other methods of annealing that work. Hence why other industries don't universally use induction annealing.
years back ,before i had gotten involved with annealing, some brass had gotten so hard that I had to lube the ball expander to get it out of the brass . lee die's if I remember right,(now using redding.) if you are not annealing, it will catch up with you. and you can also get to soft
Did I miss it….but I don’t see where the OP is sharing HOW he knows the degree of interference fit he has after annealing.
@SlowMiss6.5 - did you measure ID of your necks after your full case prep and if so, how?
@SlowMiss6.5 - did you measure ID of your necks after your full case prep and if so, how?
.
You are always supposed to lube the inside of necks for pulling expanders or pushing mandrels. It has nothing to do with annealing.
try annealing ,you dont need lube the inside of necks. i rarely use the expanding ball anymore
Last edited:
Annealing for purposes of softening brass for the factory to create the case is entirely different than the resetting of metallurgical principles and grain pattern annealing that people are talking about here.
For anyone who's actually on the forum not to argue, before leaving the factory, all brass manufacturers do a final anneal that is for the same reasons people anneal when utilizing fired brass. Obviously there is annealing that is also done during the draw process.
Peterson for example, utilizes induction annealing for their final anneal. Other manufacturers use other methods.
You can contact your go to brass manufacturer and inquire about any of their process they are willing to divulge and many will also schedule informational tours.
www.petersoncartridge.com
Peterson for example, utilizes induction annealing for their final anneal. Other manufacturers use other methods.
You can contact your go to brass manufacturer and inquire about any of their process they are willing to divulge and many will also schedule informational tours.
Drawing Brass | How Cartridge Cases Are Made | Peterson Cartridge
See the brass rifle casing manufacturing process at Peterson Cartridge from raw brass coils to the finished casings we deliver to you.
www.petersoncartridge.com
Brian Litz has a podcast with Erik Cortina and discusses his extensive testing with annealing. He found that under no conditions did he ever witness that annealing had any affect on improving ES or SD's, it only annealed the brass as it is supposed to....Watch the podcast and draw your own conclusions....
Similar threads
