i got mine back in 2010 after my first deployment as a gift to myself. I called him up asked if he could build me an M40A3 or at least his version of one (Decision maker) after I got the rifle I never really had any contact with him afterwards so if he out of business now it would have happened after September 2010 but like I said I haven't talk to him since I received the rifle so I wouldn't know.
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Suppressors Any AAC-SDN-6 quality issues you guys experienced?
- Thread starter Ultraman550
- Start date
KYS maybe I should have given more information. LH GAP (w/ templar 24" .308 in AICS) shoots lights out. Feeding it 175gr Black Hills Match. Without can I can get 5 shots in 3" pretty consistently. With the can I will get some shots on target, other shots will be between 6-9" high or 6-9" low. It is quite literally a vertical string. AAC rebuilt my can, when I got it back the stringing still happened, as described in my post above. Not to sound overally cocky, but its not me. Trust me on that. Its not the ammo, its not the gun. Its the can. Proof of that is I can take the can off and shoot lights out. When it backs off that half tooth or whatever my accuracy just becomes unpredictable.
How about 3-4 inches at 100 yards? That will translate EASY to 18" at 600. That's exactly what's happening with MY can.
Without the can, I'm making torso hits at 600 yards with 168 grain SMK FGMM rounds no problem. WITH the can, every other shot is off if I don't keep clicking the ratchet back in place.
I don't have the time or resources to have a machinist turn down the shoulder on the brake to tighten up the fit and lock the can in place. I even tried another brake with even worse results. I've found a local shop that sells AAC and I'll talk to them this weekend about the fix. Funny, I was there yesterday about another brand of can for another application and they were telling me that my experience with AAC is the NORM, not unusual at all, not to expect ANY level of customer support AFTER the sale, which, from what I can glean from the innerwebs is about par for the course.
Interesting that Peaceatwar has had similar experience.
It's my understanding that the SDN-6 is not a can for a precision rifle, and I am not expecting such. That's why I have a TBAC 30P-1 on the way. Based on this thread, along with a number of others, and the amount of time it takes to get a can and the extremely limited resale availability, i'm starting to wonder if I should order another TBAC....or use it as an excuse to order a Shark for my bolt guns, and just run the TBAC on the 300 SBR since I will be able to simply thread that one on.
Is anyone else using the SDN-6 an an AAC SBR 9" barrel (rifle from actual Advanced Armament)? I wondering if they have their barrel harmonics tuned a certain way to compliment their can (showing my lack of knowledge on that subject as well).
Is anyone else using the SDN-6 an an AAC SBR 9" barrel (rifle from actual Advanced Armament)? I wondering if they have their barrel harmonics tuned a certain way to compliment their can (showing my lack of knowledge on that subject as well).
I use the 762SD-n6 on a 300 blackout upper and it has seen time on a few other SBR's in 5.56
They were never advertised as a precision rifle can. They were sold as extreme use suppressors. Built to take the abuse of high rates of fire and shorter barrels.
The fact that you guys are trying to turn a machine gun suppressor into a precision rifle can is the part I do not understand. The key to the suppressor market is research. Read and read until you cannot stand it, then go back and read it some more.
The old 762SD was a precision type can in QD and it did fine with the brake modification I mentioned earlier. Hate to say it but if you have bought a 762SD-N6 as a precision can, you have effectively shot yourself in the foot. That just weren't meant for that, and AAC will tell you that straight up.
They were never advertised as a precision rifle can. They were sold as extreme use suppressors. Built to take the abuse of high rates of fire and shorter barrels.
The fact that you guys are trying to turn a machine gun suppressor into a precision rifle can is the part I do not understand. The key to the suppressor market is research. Read and read until you cannot stand it, then go back and read it some more.
The old 762SD was a precision type can in QD and it did fine with the brake modification I mentioned earlier. Hate to say it but if you have bought a 762SD-N6 as a precision can, you have effectively shot yourself in the foot. That just weren't meant for that, and AAC will tell you that straight up.
If your can is coming loose in between shots the ratchet latch or the brake is way out of spec. Mine never loosens up like that. And mine is a factory AAC 9" upper. I can shoot any type of ammo and it will not back off on the teeth of the brake.
You need to get a replacement or have AAC do a QC inspection.
I'm glad you got a good can-brake combo. I've been watching this issue for over a year now popping up here and elsewhere.
The AAC ratchets are problematic. They were with the 18 tooth, same with the 51 tooth. People have listed several kinds of "fixes" starting with external springs to bind the ratchet teeth to using a drill press/file, dremel, lathe to pare down the shoulder and increase the tooth engagement. I guess. I'm not exactly sure how that's going to advance the can enough to fully engage the teeth especially after it's been parkerized and/or coated with carbon/soot.
The fact that AAC went to a finer tooth ratchet indicated a problem way back when, and I have one of those, a .223 (M4-1000) that's messed up also.
Here's the deal. Many of us have tried to get after-sale customer service from AAC and it doesn't exist.
I have been crapping on AAC's posts here and elsewhere for over a year and never ONCE got a direct response, a PM, a reply to an email, an answer to a phone call much less a return call. To have the owner of a stocking dealer tell me my experience isn't unusual is beyond words.
It's fucked up. This isn't my first can. I own a dozen and just bought two more. I like my hearing - what's left of it, tinnitus aside - and would like to use the thousands of dollars of AAC product I have without worrying about the cans coming loose - which they DO.
I'm taking the SDN to that dealer next week to have him take a look at it. I'll likely wind up paying out of pocket for the fix. I'll submit a bill to AAC through my lawyer just for the fun of it, but I doubt they'll respond.
I really hate to say this but it is how I see it. AAC has become the Walmart of suppressors. Any dealer that is a SOT seems to deal with AAC. My dealer had never heard of Thunderbeast until I had a 30P-1 transferred to his shop. AAC has become a dealer of quantity and not quality. You don't have to look far on many websites to hear complaints about AAC and it all can't all be a coincidence.
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So you are under the impression that you cant cut thru parkerizing with a lathe cutter bit? I have modified about 10 mounts so far. They take about 5-10 minutes in a lathe and a little test fitting in between. Its an easy process if you have someone with the machine and know how. The ratchet teeth are not the issue. Its the fact that pre 90t mount the shoulder on the mount did not match the angle in the suppressor. Therefore it would not tighten up and produced a wiggle.
You are right.... in so many words. They care more about quantity and military contracts then they do the end user. You and me...
It's sad that it has got to this point with them. I had a Titan suppressor back in the day, this was maybe 5 years ago. It was not built properly and I had to send it in. They tested it and failed QC, it was replaced free of charge.
I had a cyclone that came in with the wrong threads, they paid my gunsmith to thread my rifle to the proper pattern. I've been lucky I guess and always had good customer service. I've emailed and emailed about the easy fix to the mounts and then the 90t mount came out a few months later. Problem is..... what are the people going to do with all those faulty mounts that are out there currently?
Tune 'em. ;-) I've tuned mine and it works fine, like you've said. I had mandrels made in 1/2x28 and 5/8x24, so all I do is spin a mount on the appropriate mandrel and chuck it up in a drill press. Piece of emery cloth, a small wooden block to back it up and polish away. Mark the mating cone with a sharpie in between and you can keep track of exactly what angle you have. Increasing the angle slightly works best, in my experience. You end up with tight lockup and better seal. Rock solid. It's easier to touch them up to perfect than it is to get online and complain about them, actually.... ;-)
AMEN!!! That is what I have been saying this whole time. The amount of time everyone keeps crying about their mounts. Someone out there is willing to fix the issue for you. If AAC doesn't want to help you or replace your mount, screw them! You can fix it on your own!
Sad to read this shit after waiting nearly 9 months to receive my AAC and somehow never came across hearing about this issue. My can is still brand new in my safe and hope to get good results. I'm also glad to know it's not meant for precision because I would of been scratching my head at this one. None the less I have tagged this for future reference.
chainring, I'm getting a shit ton of blowback and even feeling hot particles hit my face. Is there any way you can PM me a picture of where on the brake I can tune it up?
Yeah, at first I was pretty cool with it but after trying it out again on several different occasions and having other people use it who are actually skilled shooters I can comfortably say it's not a good suppressor. Point blank, plain and simple it's not. Yeah I know QD's are not meant for accuracy but this thing is hitting 5+ inches low and now about 2" left. Without it I am on target which can be covered by a quarter. Yeah I know its a weight on the end of your barrel but anybody that reads reviews of the other suppressors out there will not find nearly the same amount of complaints as there are about AAC 7.62SDN-6. Anybody that doesn't have a problem consider yourselves blessed but I highly fucking doubt ANYBODY would willingly spend $1000 on a suppressor, $200 on a stamp and wait 6 months for something so sub par. The comment "oh well, it's a QD mount so I'm not expecting screw on accuracy" isn't seeing the big picture. The type of results I have gotten so far are from being "ok to deal with", they suck dick. And once again I'm not the only person who has this problem. I haven't called AAC yet so I will do that next. After seeing Mike Mers responses on here I am more than comfortable knowing I will get the proper help.
I hear you Ultraman. I got helpful and friendly service from AAC. UNforunetly it didn't solve the problem. I am now exploring other options with my paperweight. I welcome anyone who doesn't believe me to try it themselves. I frequently shoot in MD/VA/PA. If you are passing through and want to become a believer let me know.
It still sounds like you aren't listening, have you checked the threads? Have you checked the lockup on the mount? Have you tried another mount? Have you made sure the barrel nut on your AR is tight? Have you tried the suppressor and mount combo on another rifle? Have you tried different ammo? Again, I don't want to sound like a broken record but good god, listen to what other people are telling you. We all know that the 51 tooth mounting system isn't perfect, but most of us have found a way around it. Listen to the people who have been down this road already. Plus, you said that you can actually "see" the barrel sag when you mount the suppressor, if that's the case then of course you're going to have more than usual POI shift, try out a different barrel that is of a little higher quality.
If you call AAC they are going to ask you the same questions, again, lots of variables. Do some fucking homework!
greg, how about you take a look at all the other threads about the same fucking issues. Lockup on the mount has very very slight wobble so chainring is providing help. Barrel nut is tight, took it to a gun smith, tried 55gr, 62gr, 69gr, one day with 15+ mph winds, another with 8+ and another with 2 mph. Temp ranged from 75 degrees to 85 degrees. Tried it on another persons AR and same thing. I made a mistake about the barrel, it is not sagging. Since the barrel is free floated and on a bipod the weight on the end of the barrel was only pushing the barrel down in the hand rail looking like the barrel is sagging. You do sound like a broken record so if you don't have anything else to offer other than the same fucking questions you asked in the last page then beat it. As mentioned earlier, if you have the same suppressor and it works then consider yourself lucky. I and many others weren't so lucky. Go ahead and do some fucking homework yourself on this topic and you won't find many, if any, people giddy with excitement over this suppressor and how it works or the lack thereof.
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So the bottom line is that suppressor is yours, its not very easy to replace. There is a way around this, that you can do yourself. If you send your can off to AAC you're looking at the very least a couple weeks for testing and repair work. If they decide that the can is out of spec and they replace it, well then you might have to pay for another tax stamp and wait for 6+ months before you can enjoy the new can. Just keep going through the process eliminating each variable one at time. If its still not grouping well, take the advice of the others on here and polish up the surface of the mount. I've had to do that on a couple of my mounts and its worked great, plus it really isn't that hard. If it is grouping well and you're just worried about the POI shift, get over it. Re-zero your sights with the suppressor on and enjoy. If I were you, I would still try to get my hands on another barrel or rifle to test your mount and can on. If you have the same issues on another barrel, well, then you can narrow the problem down to either the mount or the can. If the problems go away, you know its something with your barrel or rifle. If you can, also try it with another mount, than you can decide if your problem lies with the mount or the can.
Many factory thread jobs are not concentric to the bore. Ths may be an issue.
The fact that it is straight on and repeatable is good. You can adjust for it. POI shift is expected as noted above.
Mers is good people and is excellent at CS.
Having no accuracy change with the mount on your barrel before the can arrived does NOT check the important tolerances of the muzzle threads. A slightly out of square shoulder, or non-concentric thread, etc. would probably not affect your accuracy based on a muzzle device....but when you magnify that slight misalignment by adding 9 inches of suppressor on it, then you are likely to notice a change. I wish I had a barrel or upper to loan you, but I still think that is your best next step in addition to tuning your mount for tight lockup. Either send the upper to a smith who knows what they are doing (ADCO, Tornado Technologies, etc.) in order to have the muzzle thread/shoulder verified or replace it with a better, medium contour barrel...which sucks to have to do that unless you were already planning to.
If you are seeing the barrel move within the free-floated handguard when you add the suppressor, then you will definitely experience a notable POI shift. Visible movement at the muzzle is going to be huge downrange. It may be that your barrel is such a light contour under the handguard that it flexes with the additional weight.
Either way, what is important is group size and repeatability - if your groups are tight and POI shift is repeatable from one mounting to the next, then you are golden. If groups are not tight, tune mounts and try again. If that doesn't fix it, then I'm going to come back around to looking with deep and abiding suspicion at the muzzle threads again..
Mount tuning is so easy that it's worth doing up front - I did all mine before even using the can.
By the way, if no one has mentioned it, hold your latch down as you screw the can on. If you let it drag over the mount teeth every time you mount it, it will wear out the teeth on the little ratchet pawl and give you trouble. I've been running 51 tooth AAC mounts for years, with no discernible wear on my ratchets - hold the latch down every time you screw the can on and you'll never have to worry about it.
If you are seeing the barrel move within the free-floated handguard when you add the suppressor, then you will definitely experience a notable POI shift. Visible movement at the muzzle is going to be huge downrange. It may be that your barrel is such a light contour under the handguard that it flexes with the additional weight.
Either way, what is important is group size and repeatability - if your groups are tight and POI shift is repeatable from one mounting to the next, then you are golden. If groups are not tight, tune mounts and try again. If that doesn't fix it, then I'm going to come back around to looking with deep and abiding suspicion at the muzzle threads again..
Mount tuning is so easy that it's worth doing up front - I did all mine before even using the can. By the way, if no one has mentioned it, hold your latch down as you screw the can on. If you let it drag over the mount teeth every time you mount it, it will wear out the teeth on the little ratchet pawl and give you trouble. I've been running 51 tooth AAC mounts for years, with no discernible wear on my ratchets - hold the latch down every time you screw the can on and you'll never have to worry about it.
No problems here, but it is what it is. Not always going to go the repeat-ability of a dedicated can.
Mine shoots great across the board from 5.56, 300 blk, 7.62x39, .308 win.. I have shot plenty of nice groups with it on my .308s. Shifts are repeatable.
Mine shoots great across the board from 5.56, 300 blk, 7.62x39, .308 win.. I have shot plenty of nice groups with it on my .308s. Shifts are repeatable.
Does your can lock up tight everytime? Have you made any modifications to your mounts?
I don't have access to the tools/equipment to do this. I think thats the only thing stopping me. I am here "bitching online" because I shouldn't have to potentially void the warranty on my can to get it to work. Has your process been vetted by AAC? I'm open to anything. I have even contacted the "jailbreak" person to see if he's willing to take a stab at it.
I believe in this product and I want it to work. I know that the heart of this issue doesn't lie anywhere above the bottom of the can in the mounting system. When it works it produces reliable suppression and POI change. When it loosens up it does not product reliable POI change, it stll performs its function of supression quite well.
I don't think anyone in this thread bought this can knowing that this could be an issue. I think everyone with this issue wants to do anything they can to remediate it. We bought this equipment for life and want nothing more than it to work.
I'll answer each one of your statements like this:
"I don't have access to the tools/equipment to do this"
I'm sure there are at least a dozen places that would do this for you. As long as they have the correct FFL you could send the suppressor and a few mounts and have them timed up.
"I am here "bitching online" because I shouldn't have to potentially void the warranty on my can to get it to work"
You are not voiding the warranty on the can because the suppressor is not altered, the mount is. Technically to AAC standards, it does work. You are making it better.
"Has your process been vetted by AAC"
Honestly, I could care less if they do or do not like my process. It's is PROVEN that it has a positive affect and no negatives. It works and I know how a suppressor that is just as accurate as my thread on cans. I has a guy with over 35 years of machining under his hat. He is a very smart guy, he did the first one for me and from that point on I had it down pat. I show up borrow his machine when I need to and do them myself. We have made jigs to make the process extremely quick now.
"I have even contacted the "jailbreak" person to see if he's willing to take a stab at it."
I dont think the "jailbreak guy" is doing this process. Sound like he is just restoring old cans or making them take apart cans. I have a person you can contact if you want the process done. He would need all mounts and the suppressor.
"I don't think anyone in this thread bought this can knowing that this could be an issue. I think everyone with this issue wants to do anything they can to remediate it. We bought this equipment for life and want nothing more than it to work."
Now you see, this is the statement that bothers me the most. And I believe this way of thinking is more widespread then just this poster. I am not picking on your here, I am saying this mindset when going out in the Class 3 world to make purchases is why so many are having troubles. This issue with the mounts has been widely known since the 18t mounts. You area talking an issue over the time span of 8-10 years. That is a pretty big time frame for people to catch on to what these mounts are all about. It took them (AAC) THAT long to figure out more teeth the better so you could get another click and to bevel the face at an angle to mate up to the suppressors internals.
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I appreciate you taking the time to write back. I will also try and answer you point by point.
I haven't had any luck finding someone willing to do this for me in MD. I would love your contact. I can send them the can and a couple of mounts.
This can was originally purchased for SCAR-17S and I'm sure it wouldn't do its due diligence fine on a battle rifle. I might not even had noticed spuraticness of the POI. The BANIC of '13 happend and I couldn't resist selling for 5k. Luckily enough around the same time I came into ownership of a GAP rifle. When the stamp came in the GAP + SDN6 just didn't play nice so I've had a negative outlook ever since. When I bought the can I wasn't on the hide at the time and I think there was a lot less on the web then you think as far as negative conotation around the 18t/51t/90t mounting systems.
I will get you his info and you can contact him to see what his schedule is like. He is a manufacturer and keeps a very tight schedule. I'm sure he wouldn't mind to help you out though.
You can work out the particulars with him.
Stand by for info.....
I finally borrowed a drill press and started turning down various 51 tooth flash hiders and brakes that I have. Some have worked perfectly the first time... others I have to take a lot of material off. It sure feels good when it takes a little torque to engage the last tooth and there is absolutely no wiggle. I'll get out in the next few days and start testing to see if it helps accuracy. Without exception, the three 51 tooth AAC cans that I own have had a negative effect on accuracy, but none of them fit perfectly either. I am hoping this is the cure!
-J
-J
It does lock up tight.. Not as tight as you would like.. But that is the nature of that mount. I keep it clean though.. When those teeth get grit in them, and you take them off and on a lot, it wears the detent spring out faster for sure.. as it acts like sand paper. I like the threads stay a little dirty as it add some friction.
jm
I've done this by hand with an Arkansas stone. Yeah, it takes forever. Yeah, lapping it in a press or lathe would be better (if I had one). Anyway, I have my Grendel where it locks up tight as shit. NO play, nice and smooth. Five of the other mounts all latch with very little play, not enough to worry about. The one on the 7.62, that one is so far off it scares me to even use it, it literally wiggles at the end (so I haven't) and AAC could care less.
AAC: I'll keep that in mind next can I buy. You made a BFD about that ONE mount I have problems with, out of what, seven I own? About how it would void warranty, and yeah, he said it voids the can and the mount, so be careful what you tell them, yet given I jumped through the proper hoops, you still wouldn't fix it, didn't even want me to send it back. You could tell it was in spec over the phone. Yeah, that is who I want to do business with next time (not). That $100 part cost you thousands in business from me, just so you know. I notice your R&D guy spends a lot of time defending shitty ideas online. Perhaps you need an R&D person to unfuck the mount issue and just leave the other guy on the net to defend your products.
AAC: I can and will design a locking QD mount for you that doesn't move and won't have problems, and will be compatible with the tolerances on your tooling and machines. I want 5% of every mount sold. I guarantee you won't have mount problems anymore. You know where to find me.
AAC: I'll keep that in mind next can I buy. You made a BFD about that ONE mount I have problems with, out of what, seven I own? About how it would void warranty, and yeah, he said it voids the can and the mount, so be careful what you tell them, yet given I jumped through the proper hoops, you still wouldn't fix it, didn't even want me to send it back. You could tell it was in spec over the phone. Yeah, that is who I want to do business with next time (not). That $100 part cost you thousands in business from me, just so you know. I notice your R&D guy spends a lot of time defending shitty ideas online. Perhaps you need an R&D person to unfuck the mount issue and just leave the other guy on the net to defend your products.
AAC: I can and will design a locking QD mount for you that doesn't move and won't have problems, and will be compatible with the tolerances on your tooling and machines. I want 5% of every mount sold. I guarantee you won't have mount problems anymore. You know where to find me.
There are people lined up to sell them new mount ideas..... they came up with the 91t mount. You're gravy train has passed on by.
YO Ultraman550, how goes the troubleshooting process with your can?
I am sure by now you have had time to have your barrel/mount/can ect.
I am sure by now you have had time to have your barrel/mount/can ect.
Well, spent several hours with dychem, a drill press, some emery cloth/400 grit trying to get this thing working.
I don't have access to a lathe.
I did send another email to the company, after calling repeatedly this morning/afternoon (no one answers, I get a voicemail mssg):
Hello.
I bought an AAC 762-SDN QD model over a year ago and have yet to be able to make use of it.
Basically, the 51T ratchet won't lock up. As tight as I can make the can on the first shot the latch pops off and the can backs out a few degrees, enough to wobble and make my rifle a long-range shotgun.
I've taken this to a local AAC dealer for evaluation, they have no clue how to fix it.
I've read on several boards about a fix involving spinning the brake up on a lathe or drill press and basically sanding down the mating surface enough for the latching mechanism to fully engage. I have spent hours on this latter method trying to get this to work
and I'm no closer than before.
You can tell the ratchet WILL work as it doesn't back off from any other engagement, it's just not far enough for the last set to fully mesh.
I'd like to return this for you to fix it so it works as it was supposed to.
I have called. I have emailed. I've called again. I've posted on several boards hoping you might "man up" and say okay, send it in, and nothing.
I've never gotten a single response to any of my calls, messages, or emails, or registered letters.
Do me a favor and at least have the courtesy to reply "fuck off" directly if that is your company's intent.
Thanks.
Norm Balog
Maryland
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Then I start looking for an attorney for a class action suit.
And KYS, I'm sure it's just me. I'm an easy-going guy. I basically want what I paid for, or the product support implied in the sale of a defective product.
What I find MOST interesting is the actual AAC dealers tell me my story isn't unusual.
I don't have access to a lathe.
I did send another email to the company, after calling repeatedly this morning/afternoon (no one answers, I get a voicemail mssg):
Hello.
I bought an AAC 762-SDN QD model over a year ago and have yet to be able to make use of it.
Basically, the 51T ratchet won't lock up. As tight as I can make the can on the first shot the latch pops off and the can backs out a few degrees, enough to wobble and make my rifle a long-range shotgun.
I've taken this to a local AAC dealer for evaluation, they have no clue how to fix it.
I've read on several boards about a fix involving spinning the brake up on a lathe or drill press and basically sanding down the mating surface enough for the latching mechanism to fully engage. I have spent hours on this latter method trying to get this to work
and I'm no closer than before.
You can tell the ratchet WILL work as it doesn't back off from any other engagement, it's just not far enough for the last set to fully mesh.
I'd like to return this for you to fix it so it works as it was supposed to.
I have called. I have emailed. I've called again. I've posted on several boards hoping you might "man up" and say okay, send it in, and nothing.
I've never gotten a single response to any of my calls, messages, or emails, or registered letters.
Do me a favor and at least have the courtesy to reply "fuck off" directly if that is your company's intent.
Thanks.
Norm Balog
Maryland
**************************
Then I start looking for an attorney for a class action suit.
And KYS, I'm sure it's just me. I'm an easy-going guy. I basically want what I paid for, or the product support implied in the sale of a defective product.
What I find MOST interesting is the actual AAC dealers tell me my story isn't unusual.
Funny you mention that. I got a response inside an hour from him asking for serial number, name/address to arrange to have the can sent back for repair.
If only they'd responded like this a year ago.
I'll keep you posted.
Having both 18 and 51 tooth AAC 7.62 SD suppressers, I will say the 18t mounting attachment suck donkey balls, But would not want to be without it because sound reductions and minimal zero shift are awesome and over 10k rounds Its solid peace trusted after self installing a set screw, ditched the springs. use it now with both 18t and 51t mounts. have one mount that it locks up on and stays tight without the set screw being tightened sometimes .The other 7.62Sd 51t is freakin awesome! Locks up tight and performance is just as good as the first SD, but I need more rounds threw It before I feel its earned its keep. I had a few mounts that lock up a little loose on my can,but tight on another SD Can but still within what I would expect the wiggle to be of a non tapered Mount design. Try swapping around 51t mounts for tighter lock up it is worth the hassle going threw diffrent mounts to get it tight. In my experience Rifle suppressors zero shifts are from the weight induced barrel stress and not the internal structure/design at least with My Suppressors that has been the case. From the accuracy stand point this vs that Style didn't matter to me, I just kill things using them and they all where more than accurate enough for that ! For me Keeping Suppressor shift vs weight in ballance with 14.5" or longer barrels in RECON or SPR profile Ar15 the suppressor shifts 6:00 low from 1/2 to 1-1/2 moa depending,but once shift was recorded it has been repeatable. from my experience barrel profile and host stress have more to do with normal and abnormal suppressor shift than the internals.,if a suppressor yields the same directional shift results on multiple hosts then its normal for the suppressor in question, if the shift is on a single host and seems abnormal its now obvious the abnormal shift is host related. I have not noticed much if any difference using chrome molly,hammer forged or Stainless steel barrels .my experience has shown M4 cut barrels have shifts of 3-8" MOA/100 and sometimes windage shift as well,most shift close to the same,But some shift windage also its obvious stress being brought on by the weight of the suppressor . In my experience 16" Pencil or light weight barrels shift the worst ,example Two different SCAR 556 16" barrels both shifted 9-12 MOA/100 . skinny barrels hammer forged or not always loose in my cases anyway. Another of my Suppresser-host let down was a KAC SR15 16" , 9MOA low 5MOA right,but was accurate and repeatable, again a light weight barrel profile showed the larger vertical shift and some stress (I assume) showed in the horizontal shift. .
SPR,Recon or heavier profile barrels on AR15s will enjoy minimal can shifts. I am about to venture into SBR barrel lengths and suppressor testing for my personal Bore buster..
SPR,Recon or heavier profile barrels on AR15s will enjoy minimal can shifts. I am about to venture into SBR barrel lengths and suppressor testing for my personal Bore buster..
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Those of you who have been following this thread and several others regarding AAC's quality control and issues specific to this particular can (especially those of you who have had so many oh-so-superior snide and helpful comments about those of us who were having the problems) might find this interesting:
I spoke w/ my attorney, and decided to give AAC one last try. The local shop, an AAC dealer had no idea how to fix the can and agreed that AAC's "customer support" is more imaginary than legendary.
Sent an email. Cade Patterson responded within an hour, AFTER hours, and sent me a UPS tag via email the next morning and it went out to them two days ago.
Paul - from tech - called me earlier and said he can clearly see what I'm talking about and no, there's no machining they can do to the shoulder/taper to make the can fit the brake, AND THEY TRIED OTHER BRAKES. Funny. So did I. He tells me the only fix they can come up with is to cut BOTH ends off the tube, knock out the internals (which have slight evidence of baffle strikes when he bore scoped it), and build another can around the serial number. He assures me this USUALLY works, but there's a slight chance of it NOT, in which case they will have to send me another, matched can/brake with another serial number.
I said sure, what the fuck, I can't use the thing as it is, and thanked him for the call.
About a year late.
I'll keep you posted, meanwhile, those of you who did the little lathe/drill press trick, you're lucky. Several of the rest of us are sitting on about $1,000 worth of junk metal.
You might want to try contacting the tech dept again.
Norm
I spoke w/ my attorney, and decided to give AAC one last try. The local shop, an AAC dealer had no idea how to fix the can and agreed that AAC's "customer support" is more imaginary than legendary.
Sent an email. Cade Patterson responded within an hour, AFTER hours, and sent me a UPS tag via email the next morning and it went out to them two days ago.
Paul - from tech - called me earlier and said he can clearly see what I'm talking about and no, there's no machining they can do to the shoulder/taper to make the can fit the brake, AND THEY TRIED OTHER BRAKES. Funny. So did I. He tells me the only fix they can come up with is to cut BOTH ends off the tube, knock out the internals (which have slight evidence of baffle strikes when he bore scoped it), and build another can around the serial number. He assures me this USUALLY works, but there's a slight chance of it NOT, in which case they will have to send me another, matched can/brake with another serial number.
I said sure, what the fuck, I can't use the thing as it is, and thanked him for the call.
About a year late.
I'll keep you posted, meanwhile, those of you who did the little lathe/drill press trick, you're lucky. Several of the rest of us are sitting on about $1,000 worth of junk metal.
You might want to try contacting the tech dept again.
Norm
Excuse me if I have missed it, what do I have to do with your situation? I offered my experience in fixing the issue and it has worked for me and many others. The design flaw itself, is their brake. I've modified over 20 brakes now, a few were mine, but for the most part everyone is telling me the process has helped them.
The method you have described would take you a week of constant work to remove as much material as I did in 10 minutes.
I find it disheartening that AAC can't man up and say "we really screwed up with this design of brake, we take full responsibility and will offer anyone that is having issues a free QC check and matched brake". The process I describe is not my own, I got it from a guy on a forum and we tweaked it a bit. It happened to work and took my nearly worthless 51t 762SD and made it a true performer. In regards to sound and grouping it matches my TBAC 30BA, but not even close in weight.
thought i'd chime in here....got a brake from them coupla months ago as a warranty piece. mounted on my LMT MRP 10.5. twisted my M4-2K on. endcap CLEARLY visible. no bueno. sent barrel off to LMT to have checked. Gene Swanson says it's within .001" of tolerance. shit. okay. bought another brake from Rainier. mounted. twiested can on. endcap CLEARLY visible. DAMMIT. Paul @ AAC had me send the upper AND the can back to them. funny thing is, BOTH brakes have the same 6 digit code on them. batch # i take it??? i HATED sending in over 2500.00 worth of goods. delivered today. fingers crossed they find a proper brake as WELL as replace the 2nd one i have.
This just keeps getting curiouser and curiouser.
Under new management, I sent an email to Cade Patterson of AAC. Within 24 hours I had a reply, and a UPS call tag in that email to send the can back for repair.
Two days later I got a call from Paul van Wagner in the tech dept to tell me the can was fucked up from the start. AAC - under old management - apparently sold me a broke-dick piece of shit that wasn't going to work with ANY flash hider and he tried several. He asked for my permission to do a cut and paste operation. Cut off ends of can, remove baffles, replace baffles and threaded end, and sew everything up tight. I got the can back two days ago.
I didn't wait the 24 hours for the rock set to dry, but torqued the new in packaging blackout flash hider onto my gun and hand-tightened the can down to the - ALMOST down - to the last click. Just as before. It simply will not fully engage the latching mechanism.
I took it off, made sure I hadn't gotten a piece of something larger than a dust mite between the mating surfaces, did it again and got exactly the same result. QD mount doesn't work. Just a little counter -torque and it comes loose enough to wobble. It's what turned my unsuppressed 1/2-MOA REPR into a long-range - suppressed - shotgun last time.
I called him yesterday and explained this to him. He's going to send me a half dozen flash hiders, brakes, and I'm going to find ONE that locks up tight, so help me. When I do, and it proves itself on the range, I'm never taking this can off the gun. Putting a threaded block on the end of the can isn't an option, but he did offer me another model can if this doesn't work out.
While I had him on the phone, I mentioned my M4-1000 18T QD mount not working either, I should have a UPS call tag Monday for this, something about putting on some inconel springs. I asked him to please send the exact flash hider he uses to test it.
It looks like - under new - management, AAC is doing everything they can to make good on a very out of control and FUBAR mismanagement they inherited from the original owners.
I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Under new management, I sent an email to Cade Patterson of AAC. Within 24 hours I had a reply, and a UPS call tag in that email to send the can back for repair.
Two days later I got a call from Paul van Wagner in the tech dept to tell me the can was fucked up from the start. AAC - under old management - apparently sold me a broke-dick piece of shit that wasn't going to work with ANY flash hider and he tried several. He asked for my permission to do a cut and paste operation. Cut off ends of can, remove baffles, replace baffles and threaded end, and sew everything up tight. I got the can back two days ago.
I didn't wait the 24 hours for the rock set to dry, but torqued the new in packaging blackout flash hider onto my gun and hand-tightened the can down to the - ALMOST down - to the last click. Just as before. It simply will not fully engage the latching mechanism.
I took it off, made sure I hadn't gotten a piece of something larger than a dust mite between the mating surfaces, did it again and got exactly the same result. QD mount doesn't work. Just a little counter -torque and it comes loose enough to wobble. It's what turned my unsuppressed 1/2-MOA REPR into a long-range - suppressed - shotgun last time.
I called him yesterday and explained this to him. He's going to send me a half dozen flash hiders, brakes, and I'm going to find ONE that locks up tight, so help me. When I do, and it proves itself on the range, I'm never taking this can off the gun. Putting a threaded block on the end of the can isn't an option, but he did offer me another model can if this doesn't work out.
While I had him on the phone, I mentioned my M4-1000 18T QD mount not working either, I should have a UPS call tag Monday for this, something about putting on some inconel springs. I asked him to please send the exact flash hider he uses to test it.
It looks like - under new - management, AAC is doing everything they can to make good on a very out of control and FUBAR mismanagement they inherited from the original owners.
I'll keep you posted on the progress.
That is good to hear. I hope they get it all ironed out for you. I have the 762sdn6 and it won't get over that last tooth on any of my mounts. If anyone knows somewhere I can send the mounts and can to have the mounts tweaked I would appreciate the help. I wouldn't describe what happens with mine as wobble, just a slight rotation between the teeth.
I got it to lock up tight with the dremle. Took it to the range yesterday to shoot my 700 for the first time. The group shifted up 2" and right 1". The groups were just as tight with or without the suppressor. Couldn't be happier now!
I took my LMT MWS to a very reliable gunsmith in southern GA. He timed the muzzle break by shaving the backside of the break. Now the break sits flush with the barrel and the can fits tight with no wobble or wiggle. Rockset was used but none of the shims were. I can send pics if you want.
I shot 70 rounds through the can this Saturday with great results. I was able to hit 6 inch steel targets at 200 yards with ease.
I shot 70 rounds through the can this Saturday with great results. I was able to hit 6 inch steel targets at 200 yards with ease.
Dammit... You guys are making me super nervous about my recent sdn-6 purchase! I never noticed all these threads about AAC until recently. I sent my form 4's last week. Now I'm scared to death that I wasted my money on a can for my precision rig. I am gonna pray that mine is an exception! Fuck me...
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