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Army M24 Build Thread
- Thread starter superwolf
- Start date
Following my post on fitting the bottom metal to either a PST-024 or PST-011, here is a few pics of a contract Dakota and Remington bottom metal from a 700P.
There is already a lot of pictures of the correct Dakota BM in this thread. But I thought comparing both side by side might answer some questions. Pictures speak for themselves.
Its perfectly obvious why the Dakota only fits the PST-024 stock.
Hope it can help those who are still following this thread, and those who are new to the M24 build guide.
There is already a lot of pictures of the correct Dakota BM in this thread. But I thought comparing both side by side might answer some questions. Pictures speak for themselves.
Its perfectly obvious why the Dakota only fits the PST-024 stock.
Hope it can help those who are still following this thread, and those who are new to the M24 build guide.
Ok guys, I approached twomanattack about the possibility of making some flash hiders for the M24. He's making some awesome reproduction M40A1 scope mounts and is working the final legalities for modifying Remington triggers to M24 specs. I'm hoping that between this thread and the M24 Rebuild thread that it may gain some interest. I know I'm like everyone else, cost is a factor and if it's to much then it's just not worth it.
If you have an original flash hider and are willing to loan it out to twomanattack pm him or I.
If you have an original flash hider and are willing to loan it out to twomanattack pm him or I.
I'm not sure what that piece, just forward of the bolt handle is?
REF: m24 sws - Taringa!
Note: 1st time posting a pic. If I've violated any rules, please tell me via PM and I'll fix it and won't do it again.
Where I'm from we call it a sand bag
One thing to keep in mind on this endeavor, while the basic flash hider is the same for both type of front sight bases the Remington sight base takes a thinner lock ring while the OK Webber base uses a thicker one.
The lock ring slips on first and has a notch to clear the front sight base then the flash hider is slid on and the lock ring tightened up to the back of the sight base.
So you may want to have a consensus on which lock ring to have made or do some of both before you start production.
The lock ring slips on first and has a notch to clear the front sight base then the flash hider is slid on and the lock ring tightened up to the back of the sight base.
So you may want to have a consensus on which lock ring to have made or do some of both before you start production.
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This is good info. I'm just starting to get a handle on the differences with the sights and have a lot to learn. This won't be a quick process if I can get it off the ground at all but the little details like needing a different locking ring to accommodate the front mount important.
I'd be up for one too (cost permitting) I missed one by minutes on Options and Accessories a couple of years ago . I know they change zero and are really only for use with the PVS 10 but still score high in the "neat to have" dept.
I suppose another issue might be muzzle diameter on clone builds. Unless someone has access to Remington factory M24 hammer forged blanks we are all probably using some form of aftermarket barrel. IIRC the M24 muzzle diameter is somewhere in the neighborhood of .920"? +/-
. I know they change zero and are really only for use with the PVS 10 but still score high in the "neat to have" dept.I suppose another issue might be muzzle diameter on clone builds. Unless someone has access to Remington factory M24 hammer forged blanks we are all probably using some form of aftermarket barrel. IIRC the M24 muzzle diameter is somewhere in the neighborhood of .920"? +/-
Muzzle diameter is not really an issue with the flash hider. It is slip-fit and should accomodate any barrels thickness from 0.900 and up. It is tapered I guess, and the lock ring keeps it in place.
The measurements were posted earlier in the thread, but the pics are down... I hope the original OP is still watching the thread and will update the links:
The measurements were posted earlier in the thread, but the pics are down... I hope the original OP is still watching the thread and will update the links:
Heres some measurements of the flash hider. I will get some of the front base later on.
All I can say is I may be interested in a flash hider in the future but for now my plan is not using one on my build. Because its a nice addition to the kit however I may rethink that and get one in the future so more power to twomanattack on that! But like I said unfornately I can't commit to one right now. I think enough people would otherwise be interested to make it worthwhile though, I'd say folks should let him know so he can get a head count. Its also sweet that he's doing Unertl scope mount repros! Not sure if and when I do an A1 build but when I do I'll seek one of those out!
Looking forward to getting my m24 build done! Ray Parga is working on it, I believe it may be his first M24 build but his various M40s are incredible from the photos I've seen. He told me he's familar hands-on with factory M24s and knows what it entails to clone one. I take it he's more into the M40s but excited about the m24build. My plan is for an early production example though it won't be quite that due to using the Sunnyhill bm rather than an older Dakota unit.
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I had an inquiry about the WB 490 mount I had made through Outback Gun Parts about the finish, so I thought I would post a couple pictures to show the product
Here are a couple pics from eosix on page 10 of this thread for comparison, so anyone interested can see the differences without having to search through the thread. It's just one example contained here.
Here are a couple pics from eosix on page 10 of this thread for comparison, so anyone interested can see the differences without having to search through the thread. It's just one example contained here.
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Between this thread and the M24R (Remington M24 rebuild) thread there's a wealth of knowledge so say the very least. I recently acquired my M24R and am on the hunt for some pieces parts as with you guys building your own rifles. Besides working on a deal getting some flash hiders made I'm trying to source an original EMA/ARD and a set of RPA sights.
I do have a MARS 20moa L/A rail complete with screws & spacers to sell though. This may be of interest to the guys putting together an M24A2. If interested let me know or if you have any of the above parts I'm looking for and willing to trade maybe we could work a deal.
I do have a MARS 20moa L/A rail complete with screws & spacers to sell though. This may be of interest to the guys putting together an M24A2. If interested let me know or if you have any of the above parts I'm looking for and willing to trade maybe we could work a deal.
Evidently they were using what they had. The older EMA (laser filter) isn't in production any more and hasn't been for many years. Yes the threads are similar but they aren't the exact same. I tried using one of the plastic filters on my M3A and when I tightened the lock ring the threads jumped. No good positive lockup. On the other hand, I used the plastic filter on my M14 EBR-RI with the Mark 4 3.5-10 Variable and it locked up fine.
Here is the new Laser Filter Unit for the M110 SASS. Aluminum body (NSN 1240-01-537-6986 same as the older plastic model) and fits much better than the plastic ones.
I have an early EMA but it's missing the locking ring. I'm trying to chase down a short list of parts to complete my kit and think it'll be easier to find an EMA & ARD than actually finding a locking ring. That is unless anyone here knows where to find a ring or has one that would work. I'll post a couple pics as soon.
Are you looking for the older plastic model or the aluminum unit? Might have what you're looking for.
I had an inquiry about the WB 490 mount I had made through Outback Gun Parts about the finish, so I thought I would post a couple pictures to show the product
How much do they charge for producing that rear base? I may have them also make a 40xb front dovtl base for me.
I was going to have my builder work on a std redfield rear base I supplied him to modify it to m24 spec, but if Outback can do it and save my builder the time messing with it that might be worth it to my builder though I trust he would make it spec just fine.
On 2nd thought I may stick with my builder modifying my supplied base as it matches more closely a different type Redfield I've seen in photos, but a front 40xb replicated base would be very nice to have.
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That ema you have there is a newer version for the m110 which differs from the m24 ema, you guys need to watch the market boards, an original sold on eBay a few weeks ago.
For instance, there's a Dakota M24 floormetal on gunbroker.
On another note, I and others have put a lot of time into this thread posting pics and details of all the original parts for the M24.
Please use the information provided.
For instance, there's a Dakota M24 floormetal on gunbroker.
On another note, I and others have put a lot of time into this thread posting pics and details of all the original parts for the M24.
Please use the information provided.
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On that rear sight base, did you have outback repro a WB-490?
That one is close but differs from the original.
That one is close but differs from the original.
Yes time is what's needed and many people are learning as we go along. There's a wealth of knowledge on the net and in these threads but there are times we do and will miss details.
The floor plate you mentioned on GB belongs to a member here on the Hide. We don't have to look very far quite often.
I just made a deal with a member on another board for an as new original EMA/ARD. Patience and careful looking is required. The EMA I have pictured above I picked up quite some time ago and really had no use for it, it was with some other parts and until recently forgot I even had it.
Here's my M24 Rebuild from Remington.
Outback did reproduce the part. It was delivered to my door, finished ready to mount, for a total of $60. I am very happy it. My issued M24 would have had an OK Weber base, but it was taken off long before I was issued the rifle. I looked for a few months for an original WB490. I had a few near misses, but couldn't find one. Mike Lau would have made me one when I sent my rifle to him. If I had it to do over I may have taken that route, but I am pleased with the product produced by Outback Gun Parts. They were very easy to deal with. I am sure they would make any changes needed. They used this thread to design the one they made for me.
On the Dakota bottom metal, I called Dakota Arms and bought one from them for $225. It was "in the white", and still needed to be finished. That was a little over a year ago, they may still have some of the original contract bottom metal, just be sure to specify what you want when asking.
On the Dakota bottom metal, I called Dakota Arms and bought one from them for $225. It was "in the white", and still needed to be finished. That was a little over a year ago, they may still have some of the original contract bottom metal, just be sure to specify what you want when asking.
Thats interesting. I just looked at all the pictures I have of the rear sight base and notice a small difference between some bases... I've seen some reproduction base sell for big bucks on eBay.... They were advertised as 'original'...
- This is an original WB490 base, out of the original Refield package. I keep it as a spare in my deployment kit. As you can, the mounting holes dont protrude in the 'channel'.
- The reproduced base, and some other I've seen, the holes protrude in the channel???
What do you guys think?
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These bottom 4 pictures here are of my rifles. The base on the black rifle and the second pic are on the same rifle and it is a reproduction that was made by Andy Webber of Armament Technologies back in 1998. The base, in the last two pics, that is stripped, on the camo rifle is the original from Remington that was formally powder coated but the coating has chipped off revealing the zinc phosphate finish that Remington used in the early days. They switched to manganese phosphate because of the chipping and rusting rusting problem. As mentioned earlier in some of my posts, the rear sight base and the Dakota floor metal were both zinc phosphated and then powder coated to match the barrel and receiver. The rings, scope base and front sight base were zinc phosphated only. All these parts were later produced with the manganese phosphate finish and not powder coated.
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Sweet thanks for the info eodsix as usual don't disapoint!
I'm sticking with my plan for my build to have an original Redfiled base modified with only the top part bevelled off so that the lower portion that mounts the metal stays fully surrouning the screw heads-screw heads not going into the mounting channel. Bassically its a matter of having two types of mounting channel for the base, my base I want to keep looking like base in your lower photos. Its also what I've seen on pictures of older rifles as well, not that the other varieties are wrong nescissarily.
My plan is for quite an early rifle so I was thinking of having a coated rear sight base but having the front sight base left simply zinc-phosphated lt gray. If its correct to powder coat the rear base for an early rifle that's what I want to substantiate, or were the rear bases also left just zinc-phosphated as well?
I also have original ultra rings purchased from someone here on the hide, they are great but they are duracoated black unfortunatly so I'm researching a way to remove the duracoat. I'm pretty sure they weren't baked though its possible, if they weren't baked that would make it easier to remove the epoxy paint and reveal the original phosphating! If I can't work that out I could seek another pair but saving money it be nice to try and clean mine up.
I'm sticking with my plan for my build to have an original Redfiled base modified with only the top part bevelled off so that the lower portion that mounts the metal stays fully surrouning the screw heads-screw heads not going into the mounting channel. Bassically its a matter of having two types of mounting channel for the base, my base I want to keep looking like base in your lower photos. Its also what I've seen on pictures of older rifles as well, not that the other varieties are wrong nescissarily.
My plan is for quite an early rifle so I was thinking of having a coated rear sight base but having the front sight base left simply zinc-phosphated lt gray. If its correct to powder coat the rear base for an early rifle that's what I want to substantiate, or were the rear bases also left just zinc-phosphated as well?
I also have original ultra rings purchased from someone here on the hide, they are great but they are duracoated black unfortunatly so I'm researching a way to remove the duracoat. I'm pretty sure they weren't baked though its possible, if they weren't baked that would make it easier to remove the epoxy paint and reveal the original phosphating! If I can't work that out I could seek another pair but saving money it be nice to try and clean mine up.
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You can try soaking them in acetone, If it wasn't baked the duracoat will come off, if not look up GunBlack in New York and have them refinished, they do excellent work.
Thats good info as usual
. I hope you dont mind me using your pictures... I pick them up somewhere in the thread.About the finish: I have 2 sets of Ultra rings. One of the set has a weird purple-ish hue... Might be hard to see on the pictures but its there and quite apparent... Anybody can explain why and maybe identify the finish? Seems to be factory... Both sets are new, never issued or mounted.
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The purplish hue is original Leupold finish BEFORE Remington did their thing so these weren't from Remington.
As far as your previous question about the powder coat on the rear sight base, yes early on they were and my rear base is an example. There are remnants of the RemTuf coating is on the underside but all the external coating has flaked off or deliberately removed because of flaking.
As far as your previous question about the powder coat on the rear sight base, yes early on they were and my rear base is an example. There are remnants of the RemTuf coating is on the underside but all the external coating has flaked off or deliberately removed because of flaking.
Thanks so much for the info!
I will soak mine in accetone for a bit and see what happens. If it don't I'll give those other folks a holler.
Beauty rings BTW Mescabug!
I will soak mine in accetone for a bit and see what happens. If it don't I'll give those other folks a holler.
Beauty rings BTW Mescabug!
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I am reading this for the first time. I think everyone here knows I am a Marine 8541 and have very little experience with army issued gear.
I am interested in reproducing the part for the masses, however it may not be cost effective. Although I have not received the part yet, it looks like a simple part to reverse engineer and produce. Unfortunatly, the cost of engineering is very high. We take a real live engineer from his project and pay him real $$$ to engineer the part to be perfect, purchase material, pay the programer to program the mill, sometimes build a fixture then pay a machinist to set up and babysit while the part runs. That process costs us $$$ before we sell even 1 part.
I have a sample flash hider in route. I will take a look at it and check the patents on it. Then I will update this post. Hopefully the sample part gets to me soon. I hope I can help everyone out. Unless we sell the item in quanity they will be very expensive. For example, the Unertl scope base we made still have not paid for themselves and although we raised the cost $15 and made some changes, we still have not broke even on the bases. If we sold 400 of them we could make some $$$ but we probably will never sell them in those quanities. These projects are just for our personal use. As of now we still have not covered the costs on the Simrad caps or Unertl mounts. With that said, I must remind people that I am a US MARINE and my business partner rates a Trident we dont have any projects going that include US ARMY issue weapons systems. I will look at the part and try to throw a number at it. The more people that commit to buy the less it will cost everyone. We could engineer it and have it built overseas it would be cheap but SORRY GUYS we wont do that.
I'm glad you had a chance to check in, it's been a few weeks since we've emailed. I was hoping that the flash hider being loaned out would have arrived but I'm remaining positive. Hopefully if things come along once you receive the hider and details come out, it will generate enough interest to make it worth pursuing. I understand the initial expense and engineering but thank god the hider is a far less complicated item than the M40A1 mounts you've made thus far. Maybe someone else can chime in but as far as I know the flash hider was made by the Army AMU Shop, at least what I've been told so hopefully there wouldn't be an issue with patents. I shouldn't assume though.
Again, thank you for checking!
Thanks Twomanattack!
Totally understand how big a project all this ends up being!
I personally am not going for a flashhider at the moment but on behalf of others that are interested I'm glad you are looking into it and I think we all understand that it takes time! Thankyou for looking at this and also doing the Unertl rings on top of your other work!!
Totally understand how big a project all this ends up being!
I personally am not going for a flashhider at the moment but on behalf of others that are interested I'm glad you are looking into it and I think we all understand that it takes time! Thankyou for looking at this and also doing the Unertl rings on top of your other work!!
I am the SPECIAL projects manager. When my partner and I want a personal item that is obsolete, we make it. I don't have a need for the M24 stuff, but it seems like a cool part that people need. I posted in the group buy section trying to guage interest. I see some of these selling for about $140 and up. So I guess I will have to keep the price below $200 to make it pay for itself. We will see how many people want them and take it from there. Please let me know your interested so if we need to make them in quanity, we can.
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Thank you eodsix. I knew someone would step up and correct me if I was wrong and I was lol. It was information that was passed on to me.
Here is DKit for sale if you're looking to flesh out your M24 Build. http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...arly-production-$375-shipped.html#post3035671
Rob is a very nice guy to deal with. Anyone who needs that kit will be happy, thats quality stuff.
Pardon my asking, sorry if it be a stupid Q, but where can a guy get the correct stamps like the magnaflux marks and other spec marks needed for an M24? I think other than the lettering codes this is the oval stamp, the triangle, the circle magnaflux stamps etc. I've been told these are very hard to find. What is the cost of getting something like these custom made. I would hope all the letter codes are generic and readily available however I'm hearing that the circle letter or oval marks are Remington factory specific and are not available to anyone outside of Remington arms.
Specifically the REP, triangle J, circle M stamps for puting on the bbl and other parts.
Specifically the REP, triangle J, circle M stamps for puting on the bbl and other parts.
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I guess any machinist can make a punch tool. I think the stamps on Remington rifles are actually 'roll stamp'. Can be pricey to make though... Laser engraving can be another option. They can make a vector file from any picture, the laser can even replicate depth.
Not sure if theres liability issues by replicating proofing marks?
Hi everyone. I have access to a basically brand new NIB M24 R Deployment case. If you have any questions, or want any photos of, any of the details or bits of the real deal M24, please let me know. I have access to a M24 R in basically NIB condition. Hardigg case, Deployment kit, Scope case, sling, etc. The only things that seem to be missing are the ARD, flash hider, and Laser filter. If anyone needs detailed pics of anything for your build, please PM me. I'd be happy to help out.
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I can vector up anything fairly quickly and have that be used if needed. I watched online the owner of Midway do a quick video on stamping. It has a definate look, it be cool if that could be replicated with laser though I might not be that much of a stickler. Correct me if I'm wrong but would a laser leave a rounded "valley" in the stamping or cut a box-like "canyon"? Again the line width would be soooo small it might be hard to tell the dif.
Its amazing what they can do with laser these days! I agree that the lines would be to nice for a roll or punch stamp... But its very small, under a coating of some kind, it wont show.
Might worth giving it a try on a steel plate.
Might worth giving it a try on a steel plate.
I might recommend that to my builder. This being his first 24 he doesn't have those proof stamps on hand. I wonder if he could borrow them temporarily from another builder and return them. He may eventually want his own if he finds he doesn more M24s for other people but if that doesn't happen he might be better off going the laser route or I think maybe easier borrowing them. The borrowing part I don't know if that's a no-no among competing smiths, maybe I'm a bit naive on that.
