I'm in gunsmithing school and i'm looking for an action for one of my final projects. I've already build a 30-06 on a mauser action, so I don't want another mauser. I can't afford a $1000 action, so what is a resonable priced action for my 308 for varmiting.
Gunsmithing Best Budget Action
- Thread starter Shooter04
- Start date
Re: Best Budget Action
You can get a new Rem 700 ADL for just under $400. It is the model that has a cheap scope on it. NOT a 710. Look around, they are usually at the big Sporting Goods stores. This is the least expensive way to get a decent action I know of.
You can get a new Rem 700 ADL for just under $400. It is the model that has a cheap scope on it. NOT a 710. Look around, they are usually at the big Sporting Goods stores. This is the least expensive way to get a decent action I know of.
Re: Best Budget Action
Brownells has new in the box 700's for 499 retail. If you have dealer pricing access you can get them more affordable.
Best to call.
Good luck.
C
Brownells has new in the box 700's for 499 retail. If you have dealer pricing access you can get them more affordable.
Best to call.
Good luck.
C
Re: Best Budget Action
The Stephens M200 complete rifles can be had on sale under $200, but direct order for a complete rifle from gunbroker is in the $250-$280 range. With judicious hunting for parts, stocks (check out Stockade) and blanks needed to satisfy gunsmithing school requirements I would be surprised if you had to spend more than $1000 for the complete rifle (excluding scope).
The Stephens M200 complete rifles can be had on sale under $200, but direct order for a complete rifle from gunbroker is in the $250-$280 range. With judicious hunting for parts, stocks (check out Stockade) and blanks needed to satisfy gunsmithing school requirements I would be surprised if you had to spend more than $1000 for the complete rifle (excluding scope).
Re: Best Budget Action
Howa actions come with m16 extractors, integral recoil lug, one piece bolt body/head, the first 2 threads removed from the near the receiver face, and the firing pin assemblies are better quality than Remington.
They arent bad. And can be had for around $350
Are you in my class? Who are you?
Howa actions come with m16 extractors, integral recoil lug, one piece bolt body/head, the first 2 threads removed from the near the receiver face, and the firing pin assemblies are better quality than Remington.
They arent bad. And can be had for around $350
Are you in my class? Who are you?
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Howa actions come with m16 extractors, integral recoil lug, one piece bolt body/head, the first 2 threads removed from the near the receiver face, and the firing pin assemblies are better quality than Remington.
They arent bad. And can be had for around $350
Are you in my class? Who are you? </div></div>
2 bits of caution on the Howa:
1) The tenon threads are metric, so make sure that you can deal with a metric thread on the machines you'll be working with in class. If the lathe you have access to does indeed have a metric stack available to it, there are other considerations as well that need to be dealt with. Namely, the timing wheel on the carriage won't "time" anymore with the different gear stack in it. Once you engage the carriage for the first pass do not disengage it, just back the tool off and stop the lathe, run it in reverse to clear the barrel, then make the next pass.
Same thing applies with recutting that internal thread on the tenon.
2) The barrels appear to be spun on with an inertial process similar to the Mosin Nagant and military Mausers as they are TIGHTTIGHTTIGHT from the factory.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Howa actions come with m16 extractors, integral recoil lug, one piece bolt body/head, the first 2 threads removed from the near the receiver face, and the firing pin assemblies are better quality than Remington.
They arent bad. And can be had for around $350
Are you in my class? Who are you? </div></div>
2 bits of caution on the Howa:
1) The tenon threads are metric, so make sure that you can deal with a metric thread on the machines you'll be working with in class. If the lathe you have access to does indeed have a metric stack available to it, there are other considerations as well that need to be dealt with. Namely, the timing wheel on the carriage won't "time" anymore with the different gear stack in it. Once you engage the carriage for the first pass do not disengage it, just back the tool off and stop the lathe, run it in reverse to clear the barrel, then make the next pass.
Same thing applies with recutting that internal thread on the tenon.
2) The barrels appear to be spun on with an inertial process similar to the Mosin Nagant and military Mausers as they are TIGHTTIGHTTIGHT from the factory.
Re: Best Budget Action
If you look hard enough you can find a Remy or Howa for dirt cheap. Like $300 from a pawn shop
Maybe $275 for a Howa
If you look hard enough you can find a Remy or Howa for dirt cheap. Like $300 from a pawn shop
Maybe $275 for a Howa
Re: Best Budget Action
Stevens 200 without a doubt. Complete rifle can be had for 200.00. Remove stock and barrel and sell off (barrel for 50, stock for 20) total cost on action is now 130.00. Get new trigger and bolt handle then add your choice of other components. My rig total cost is 1200.00 including optic and it drives tacks.
PM with any questions you might have.
Good luck,
Merritt
Stevens 200 without a doubt. Complete rifle can be had for 200.00. Remove stock and barrel and sell off (barrel for 50, stock for 20) total cost on action is now 130.00. Get new trigger and bolt handle then add your choice of other components. My rig total cost is 1200.00 including optic and it drives tacks.
PM with any questions you might have.
Good luck,
Merritt
Re: Best Budget Action
I know a lot of guys like Howa's but here's what one does when a case ruptures. Notice the missing steel from the ejector over to the extractor. I have never seen this happen when a case lets go in a Remington.
The cause, 46 grs. of 4227 instead of 46 grs. 4064.
The barrel was undamaged except for a few dings from bouncing off the concrete as it flew down range. I put it a Remington and it shot fine.
Sorry but I don't trust Howa's.
I know a lot of guys like Howa's but here's what one does when a case ruptures. Notice the missing steel from the ejector over to the extractor. I have never seen this happen when a case lets go in a Remington.
The cause, 46 grs. of 4227 instead of 46 grs. 4064.
The barrel was undamaged except for a few dings from bouncing off the concrete as it flew down range. I put it a Remington and it shot fine.
Sorry but I don't trust Howa's.
Re: Best Budget Action
I got this action in 2010 at a gun show for $5.
It is a 1937 Ishevek.
I made the front mount out of Aluminum and drilled and tapped.
I made the rear mount from steel and drilled and tapped so it was fixtured for TIG welding.
That is a mandrel sticking out, not the bolt.
It it probably better than Stalin's sniper rifle, as the inner stop ring was discontinued early in WWII:
I got this action in 2010 at a gun show for $5.
It is a 1937 Ishevek.
I made the front mount out of Aluminum and drilled and tapped.
I made the rear mount from steel and drilled and tapped so it was fixtured for TIG welding.
That is a mandrel sticking out, not the bolt.
It it probably better than Stalin's sniper rifle, as the inner stop ring was discontinued early in WWII:
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Tooley</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know a lot of guys like Howa's but here's what one does when a case ruptures. Notice the missing steel from the ejector over to the extractor. I have never seen this happen when a case lets go in a Remington.
The cause, 46 grs. of 4227 instead of 46 grs. 4064.
The barrel was undamaged except for a few dings from bouncing off the concrete as it flew down range. I put it a Remington and it shot fine.
Sorry but I don't trust Howa's.
</div></div>
Interesting pic...
But for a fair test, fire a Rem, Win and Savage with the same load and compare the size of the pieces left from all of them.
TC
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Tooley</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know a lot of guys like Howa's but here's what one does when a case ruptures. Notice the missing steel from the ejector over to the extractor. I have never seen this happen when a case lets go in a Remington.
The cause, 46 grs. of 4227 instead of 46 grs. 4064.
The barrel was undamaged except for a few dings from bouncing off the concrete as it flew down range. I put it a Remington and it shot fine.
Sorry but I don't trust Howa's.
Interesting pic...
But for a fair test, fire a Rem, Win and Savage with the same load and compare the size of the pieces left from all of them.
TC
Re: Best Budget Action
I haven't seen a Winchester fired with a very high pressure load but I have a Remington. Pressure was high enough to swell the chamber .009" which means the receiver ring was also enlarged. It completely wiped out the bolt nose, the ring around the case head. It stayed together. New bolt, new barrel and it was back in service.
The Howa has an M-16 style extractor which allowed the case to rupture venting gas along the bolt. That should have been the pressure relief valve that vented the gas reducing the pressure on the receiver ring but it still ended up in three pieces.
I have reservations about the Howa being a casting. That's not to say they aren't safe. I'm sure their insurance company sees to that when they run destructive testing but a picture is worth a thousand words.
I haven't seen a Winchester fired with a very high pressure load but I have a Remington. Pressure was high enough to swell the chamber .009" which means the receiver ring was also enlarged. It completely wiped out the bolt nose, the ring around the case head. It stayed together. New bolt, new barrel and it was back in service.
The Howa has an M-16 style extractor which allowed the case to rupture venting gas along the bolt. That should have been the pressure relief valve that vented the gas reducing the pressure on the receiver ring but it still ended up in three pieces.
I have reservations about the Howa being a casting. That's not to say they aren't safe. I'm sure their insurance company sees to that when they run destructive testing but a picture is worth a thousand words.
Re: Best Budget Action
local walmarts have 700's for less than $400. Pull the barrel and stock sell them for parts to lower the cost of the action..
local walmarts have 700's for less than $400. Pull the barrel and stock sell them for parts to lower the cost of the action..
Re: Best Budget Action
Once you are out of school, a lot of your work will be on Rem actions, so you might as well learn how to dial one in now. A used ADL or a discounted new one would be your best bet...$300-350.
TC
Once you are out of school, a lot of your work will be on Rem actions, so you might as well learn how to dial one in now. A used ADL or a discounted new one would be your best bet...$300-350.
TC
Re: Best Budget Action
Thanks guys, got a savage 110 to do one of my projects. I also have an A-bolt that I may rebarrel, any info on them. The school says they haven't had many people do A-Bolts, but from my research as long as you heat it to remove the barrel so the lock tite doesn't strip the threads then its not a problem.
AZPrecision I am in school at PGS in Pittsburgh.
Thanks guys, got a savage 110 to do one of my projects. I also have an A-bolt that I may rebarrel, any info on them. The school says they haven't had many people do A-Bolts, but from my research as long as you heat it to remove the barrel so the lock tite doesn't strip the threads then its not a problem.
AZPrecision I am in school at PGS in Pittsburgh.
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooter04</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm in gunsmithing school and i'm looking for an action for one of my final projects. I've already build a 30-06 on a mauser action, so I don't want another mauser. I can't afford a $1000 action, so what is a resonable priced action for my 308 for varmiting. </div></div>
If your still hunting around for an action maybe consider giving this guy a call:
Greg Young
Southern Precision Rifles
4065 10th Ave S.E.
Naples, FL 34117
(239)289-2338
I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night. Over the last month or so I've invested heavily in new tooling, setup, and revised the processes a bit for doing this work. These first six actions were my "test tubes" and I must say I'm pleased with the results. They look really good and the bolts lapped in very quickly.
Here's what's been done:
1. Receiver ring face trued. .005” was removed.*
2. Lug abutments have been trued. .005” was removed.*
3. Receiver threads have been trued. The new pitch is 1.085/16 these are qualified with a plug gauge.
4. Bolt lugs have been lapped. No cutting on the bolt lug surfaces werre needed. They lapped in very quickly which is a good indication that they (Remington) got that part right.
5. Receiver threads have been counterbored and feature a truncated lead thread as well now.
*I qualify everything off the lug abutments down inside the action. Doing it this way preserves the 1.150” distance from the lug abutments to receiver ring which is nice for the gunsmith as he's not having to measure/guess any distances for setting up breech clearances, etc. The counterbore just give a guy on a manual lathe a little more room when threading the tennon. Also makes it a little nicer down the road when setting a barrel back as there's no need to undercut the thread next to the shoulder. With a .1875-.3125 lug there's plenty of room.
Lugs are also available and are pinned to the receivers to ensure precise clocking during assembly. I hate those damn tools for the factory lugs.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooter04</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm in gunsmithing school and i'm looking for an action for one of my final projects. I've already build a 30-06 on a mauser action, so I don't want another mauser. I can't afford a $1000 action, so what is a resonable priced action for my 308 for varmiting. </div></div>
If your still hunting around for an action maybe consider giving this guy a call:
Greg Young
Southern Precision Rifles
4065 10th Ave S.E.
Naples, FL 34117
(239)289-2338
I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night. Over the last month or so I've invested heavily in new tooling, setup, and revised the processes a bit for doing this work. These first six actions were my "test tubes" and I must say I'm pleased with the results. They look really good and the bolts lapped in very quickly.
Here's what's been done:
1. Receiver ring face trued. .005” was removed.*
2. Lug abutments have been trued. .005” was removed.*
3. Receiver threads have been trued. The new pitch is 1.085/16 these are qualified with a plug gauge.
4. Bolt lugs have been lapped. No cutting on the bolt lug surfaces werre needed. They lapped in very quickly which is a good indication that they (Remington) got that part right.
5. Receiver threads have been counterbored and feature a truncated lead thread as well now.
*I qualify everything off the lug abutments down inside the action. Doing it this way preserves the 1.150” distance from the lug abutments to receiver ring which is nice for the gunsmith as he's not having to measure/guess any distances for setting up breech clearances, etc. The counterbore just give a guy on a manual lathe a little more room when threading the tennon. Also makes it a little nicer down the road when setting a barrel back as there's no need to undercut the thread next to the shoulder. With a .1875-.3125 lug there's plenty of room.
Lugs are also available and are pinned to the receivers to ensure precise clocking during assembly. I hate those damn tools for the factory lugs.
Re: Best Budget Action
I have a place where they sell brand new COMPLETE RIFLEs, Rem700 ADL SA or LA for $349 with an XMark trigger. Dont waste your time with people thinking their stuff is worth gold for a used Rem700, pm me and Ill let you know
I have a place where they sell brand new COMPLETE RIFLEs, Rem700 ADL SA or LA for $349 with an XMark trigger. Dont waste your time with people thinking their stuff is worth gold for a used Rem700, pm me and Ill let you know
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Smokin99</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a place where they sell brand new COMPLETE RIFLEs, Rem700 ADL SA or LA for $349 with an XMark trigger. Dont waste your time with people thinking their stuff is worth gold for a used Rem700, pm me and Ill let you know </div></div>
If this is/was directed towards me, let me reemphasize:
<span style="font-style: italic">"I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night."</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Smokin99</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a place where they sell brand new COMPLETE RIFLEs, Rem700 ADL SA or LA for $349 with an XMark trigger. Dont waste your time with people thinking their stuff is worth gold for a used Rem700, pm me and Ill let you know </div></div>
If this is/was directed towards me, let me reemphasize:
<span style="font-style: italic">"I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night."</span>
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Smokin99</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a place where they sell brand new COMPLETE RIFLEs, Rem700 ADL SA or LA for $349 with an XMark trigger. Dont waste your time with people thinking their stuff is worth gold for a used Rem700, pm me and Ill let you know </div></div>
If this is/was directed towards me, let me reemphasize:
<span style="font-style: italic">"I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night."</span> </div></div>
This guy is in Gunsmith school looking for a good buy on a Rem700! Why/HOW is this directed towards you in anyway??? I told him to PM me and I would give him my source, "let me reemphasize" just trying to help out a Student get a deal on an action for his gunsmith school. What the hell are you talking about???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Smokin99</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a place where they sell brand new COMPLETE RIFLEs, Rem700 ADL SA or LA for $349 with an XMark trigger. Dont waste your time with people thinking their stuff is worth gold for a used Rem700, pm me and Ill let you know </div></div>
If this is/was directed towards me, let me reemphasize:
<span style="font-style: italic">"I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night."</span> </div></div>
This guy is in Gunsmith school looking for a good buy on a Rem700! Why/HOW is this directed towards you in anyway??? I told him to PM me and I would give him my source, "let me reemphasize" just trying to help out a Student get a deal on an action for his gunsmith school. What the hell are you talking about???
Re: Best Budget Action
1. The Original Poster on this thread has never said anything about a 700. He asked about a budget <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">action.
</span></span>
2. The ONLY actions he's made any reference to in any of his posts are a Mauser, a Savage, and a Browning A bolt.
What am I talking about? Excuse me, what the HELL am I talking about?
I guess now I'm talking about an apparent lack of reading comprehension. Again, <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">he didn't ask for a gun, he asked for an action.</span></span></span>
I also didn't accuse you of anything, I prefaced my initial response by stating that IF IT WAS directed towards me, allow me to clarify. No one's poking fingers and Canada isn't about to invade, so relax.
Again, my statement to you wasn't meant in any derogatory manner. It was offered as clarification.
Are we done now, or should everyone go throw a fresh bag of jiffy pop in the microwave for round three?
1. The Original Poster on this thread has never said anything about a 700. He asked about a budget <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">action.
</span></span>
2. The ONLY actions he's made any reference to in any of his posts are a Mauser, a Savage, and a Browning A bolt.
What am I talking about? Excuse me, what the HELL am I talking about?
I guess now I'm talking about an apparent lack of reading comprehension. Again, <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">he didn't ask for a gun, he asked for an action.</span></span></span>
I also didn't accuse you of anything, I prefaced my initial response by stating that IF IT WAS directed towards me, allow me to clarify. No one's poking fingers and Canada isn't about to invade, so relax.
Again, my statement to you wasn't meant in any derogatory manner. It was offered as clarification.
Are we done now, or should everyone go throw a fresh bag of jiffy pop in the microwave for round three?
Re: Best Budget Action
LMAO,,,, $349 for a complete Rifle or just an action for $499 like you said.....Hmmmmmm
Here ALL you guys go SA Complete rifle for $349
http://www.academy.com/index.php?page=co...0345-02662-4311
Just trying to help the guy out, think your taking stuff the wrong way! Guys sell just actions all the time for $400 used and you can get a complete gun for $349 NEW....Hmmm I know the way I go
Pop the popcorn if you want Im just giving a fellow member a lead on a cheap action for his gunsmithing school project. If he finds something else cheaper so be it.
LMAO,,,, $349 for a complete Rifle or just an action for $499 like you said.....Hmmmmmm
Here ALL you guys go SA Complete rifle for $349
http://www.academy.com/index.php?page=co...0345-02662-4311
Just trying to help the guy out, think your taking stuff the wrong way! Guys sell just actions all the time for $400 used and you can get a complete gun for $349 NEW....Hmmm I know the way I go
Pop the popcorn if you want Im just giving a fellow member a lead on a cheap action for his gunsmithing school project. If he finds something else cheaper so be it.
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooter04</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm in gunsmithing school and i'm looking for an action for one of my final projects. I've already build a 30-06 on a mauser action, so I don't want another mauser. I can't afford a $1000 action, so what is a resonable priced action for my 308 for varmiting. </div></div>
If your still hunting around for an action maybe consider giving this guy a call:
Greg Young
Southern Precision Rifles
4065 10th Ave S.E.
Naples, FL 34117
(239)289-2338
I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night. Over the last month or so I've invested heavily in new tooling, setup, and revised the processes a bit for doing this work. These first six actions were my "test tubes" and I must say I'm pleased with the results. They look really good and the bolts lapped in very quickly.
Here's what's been done:
1. Receiver ring face trued. .005” was removed.*
2. Lug abutments have been trued. .005” was removed.*
3. Receiver threads have been trued. The new pitch is 1.085/16 these are qualified with a plug gauge.
4. Bolt lugs have been lapped. No cutting on the bolt lug surfaces werre needed. They lapped in very quickly which is a good indication that they (Remington) got that part right.
5. Receiver threads have been counterbored and feature a truncated lead thread as well now.
*I qualify everything off the lug abutments down inside the action. Doing it this way preserves the 1.150” distance from the lug abutments to receiver ring which is nice for the gunsmith as he's not having to measure/guess any distances for setting up breech clearances, etc. The counterbore just give a guy on a manual lathe a little more room when threading the tennon. Also makes it a little nicer down the road when setting a barrel back as there's no need to undercut the thread next to the shoulder. With a .1875-.3125 lug there's plenty of room.
Lugs are also available and are pinned to the receivers to ensure precise clocking during assembly. I hate those damn tools for the factory lugs.
</div></div>
Maybe I'm missing something here, but are you really trying to talk a guy in gunsmithing school into a trued action? Shouldn't he be doing the truing himself since it's a............. gunsmithing school project?
For the question, depending on what components from Savage you would like to use you may be better off with a Savage vs Stevens 200. I built my wife a .243 on a Stevens 200 which was fine because she's not a fan of the accutrigger. I ended up with just the Stevens action which was the cheapest way to go since I installed a SSS trigger and she wanted a specific stock.
On the other hand, I just built myself a Savage in 30-06. I started with a brand new 110 from Sportsman's Warehouse with Accutrigger and the stock I wanted for my build for $364 otd. I put on an Obermeyer 26", floated the barrel and adjusted the trigger. After an EGW base and borrowing a scope/rings from another rifle I'm $679 into it. After a bedding job and maybe a recoil lug and bolt handle, you could easily stay under $800 for a great rifle.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooter04</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm in gunsmithing school and i'm looking for an action for one of my final projects. I've already build a 30-06 on a mauser action, so I don't want another mauser. I can't afford a $1000 action, so what is a resonable priced action for my 308 for varmiting. </div></div>
If your still hunting around for an action maybe consider giving this guy a call:
Greg Young
Southern Precision Rifles
4065 10th Ave S.E.
Naples, FL 34117
(239)289-2338
I just completed a half dozen new in the box Remington M-700's for him last night. Over the last month or so I've invested heavily in new tooling, setup, and revised the processes a bit for doing this work. These first six actions were my "test tubes" and I must say I'm pleased with the results. They look really good and the bolts lapped in very quickly.
Here's what's been done:
1. Receiver ring face trued. .005” was removed.*
2. Lug abutments have been trued. .005” was removed.*
3. Receiver threads have been trued. The new pitch is 1.085/16 these are qualified with a plug gauge.
4. Bolt lugs have been lapped. No cutting on the bolt lug surfaces werre needed. They lapped in very quickly which is a good indication that they (Remington) got that part right.
5. Receiver threads have been counterbored and feature a truncated lead thread as well now.
*I qualify everything off the lug abutments down inside the action. Doing it this way preserves the 1.150” distance from the lug abutments to receiver ring which is nice for the gunsmith as he's not having to measure/guess any distances for setting up breech clearances, etc. The counterbore just give a guy on a manual lathe a little more room when threading the tennon. Also makes it a little nicer down the road when setting a barrel back as there's no need to undercut the thread next to the shoulder. With a .1875-.3125 lug there's plenty of room.
Lugs are also available and are pinned to the receivers to ensure precise clocking during assembly. I hate those damn tools for the factory lugs.
</div></div>
Maybe I'm missing something here, but are you really trying to talk a guy in gunsmithing school into a trued action? Shouldn't he be doing the truing himself since it's a............. gunsmithing school project?
For the question, depending on what components from Savage you would like to use you may be better off with a Savage vs Stevens 200. I built my wife a .243 on a Stevens 200 which was fine because she's not a fan of the accutrigger. I ended up with just the Stevens action which was the cheapest way to go since I installed a SSS trigger and she wanted a specific stock.
On the other hand, I just built myself a Savage in 30-06. I started with a brand new 110 from Sportsman's Warehouse with Accutrigger and the stock I wanted for my build for $364 otd. I put on an Obermeyer 26", floated the barrel and adjusted the trigger. After an EGW base and borrowing a scope/rings from another rifle I'm $679 into it. After a bedding job and maybe a recoil lug and bolt handle, you could easily stay under $800 for a great rifle.
Re: Best Budget Action
I offered this after considering the initial statement that he doesn't have a spare $1,000 dollars laying around for a custom action. That suggests to me that if he did, he'd buy one.
With that being said I think we can all agree that it defeats the purpose of buying a custom if you have to turn around and blueprint the thing. (doesn't it?) I mean since he's in school, why would he have any interest in a custom action anyway right? Logic would dictate he should be scouring pawn shops for 20 year old guns to revive. I don't profess to have a crystal ball view at the school's curriculum.
I never tried to talk anyone into anything. I said if your still looking, consider giving this resource a call. If that's pressured sales then I apologize. Certainly wasn't meant to be. The work sells itself. If you like it and it fits your needs, buy it. If not, there's a big world out there with plenty of options.
My only intention here was to offer the guy a <span style="font-style: italic">new in the box </span>Remington 700 that's been trued and ready to go at a reasonable rate and <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">available.</span> </span> No waiting, no drama. Whip out the card and your done. This isn't my sale as I referred him to another vendor.
I offered this after considering the initial statement that he doesn't have a spare $1,000 dollars laying around for a custom action. That suggests to me that if he did, he'd buy one.
With that being said I think we can all agree that it defeats the purpose of buying a custom if you have to turn around and blueprint the thing. (doesn't it?) I mean since he's in school, why would he have any interest in a custom action anyway right? Logic would dictate he should be scouring pawn shops for 20 year old guns to revive. I don't profess to have a crystal ball view at the school's curriculum.
I never tried to talk anyone into anything. I said if your still looking, consider giving this resource a call. If that's pressured sales then I apologize. Certainly wasn't meant to be. The work sells itself. If you like it and it fits your needs, buy it. If not, there's a big world out there with plenty of options.
My only intention here was to offer the guy a <span style="font-style: italic">new in the box </span>Remington 700 that's been trued and ready to go at a reasonable rate and <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">available.</span> </span> No waiting, no drama. Whip out the card and your done. This isn't my sale as I referred him to another vendor.
Re: Best Budget Action
Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions.
Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions.
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LWILLIAMS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions. </div></div>
Ever seen a trued Stevens shoot? I've gotten my hands dirty on all of the actions mentioned above and made rifles that shoot very well from each and every one. The individual actions require slightly different things for each, but when it's all done, the way they shoot and function are on par with each other.
One of the first projects that I did was to take a free MN 91/30 receiver and rebarrel it with a 22-250. It's a single shot and has a horridly ugly scope mount, but my dad still uses it for shooting woodchucks are what should be insane ranges for a "POS Nagant".
I have built several mausers from surplus actions, my personal 30-06 on a k98 action was used for whacking plates up to, and including a mile target 2 weeks ago, it's hit an awful lot of 0.75-2 MOA steel plates in the 4 digit yard range.
Another mauser I built is a 6.5-06 for a friend, he's broken 100 with it on Tom Sarver's Intimidator.
Be careful where your allegiances lie, just because the internet says the Rem 700 is king of the hill for factory actions doesn't mean nothing else works, or that the statement is even close to true. This is the same internet that says a 308 is ballistically superior to a 30-06...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LWILLIAMS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions. </div></div>
Ever seen a trued Stevens shoot? I've gotten my hands dirty on all of the actions mentioned above and made rifles that shoot very well from each and every one. The individual actions require slightly different things for each, but when it's all done, the way they shoot and function are on par with each other.
One of the first projects that I did was to take a free MN 91/30 receiver and rebarrel it with a 22-250. It's a single shot and has a horridly ugly scope mount, but my dad still uses it for shooting woodchucks are what should be insane ranges for a "POS Nagant".
I have built several mausers from surplus actions, my personal 30-06 on a k98 action was used for whacking plates up to, and including a mile target 2 weeks ago, it's hit an awful lot of 0.75-2 MOA steel plates in the 4 digit yard range.
Another mauser I built is a 6.5-06 for a friend, he's broken 100 with it on Tom Sarver's Intimidator.
Be careful where your allegiances lie, just because the internet says the Rem 700 is king of the hill for factory actions doesn't mean nothing else works, or that the statement is even close to true. This is the same internet that says a 308 is ballistically superior to a 30-06...
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LWILLIAMS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions. </div></div>
Ever seen a trued Stevens shoot? I've gotten my hands dirty on all of the actions mentioned above and made rifles that shoot very well from each and every one. The individual actions require slightly different things for each, but when it's all done, the way they shoot and function are on par with each other.
One of the first projects that I did was to take a free MN 91/30 receiver and rebarrel it with a 22-250. It's a single shot and has a horridly ugly scope mount, but my dad still uses it for shooting woodchucks are what should be insane ranges for a "POS Nagant".
I have built several mausers from surplus actions, my personal 30-06 on a k98 action was used for whacking plates up to, and including a mile target 2 weeks ago, it's hit an awful lot of 0.75-2 MOA steel plates in the 4 digit yard range.
Another mauser I built is a 6.5-06 for a friend, he's broken 100 with it on Tom Sarver's Intimidator.
Be careful where your allegiances lie, just because the internet says the Rem 700 is king of the hill for factory actions doesn't mean nothing else works, or that the statement is even close to true. This is the same internet that says a 308 is ballistically superior to a 30-06... </div></div>
Ah yeah!!... But that same public will pay that apprentice gunsmith more for the completed gun project based on a ...Rem 700.
I think that the project will be up for sale at some point and mauser, stevens, etc.,etc., will go out the ear of most buyers. Rem 700, every buyer can deal with that known quantity.
Since the thread is "Best Budget Action" and most buyers cannot evaluate a "POS Nagant" on the gun rack. For its unknown accuracy potential. Go with a 700.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LWILLIAMS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions. </div></div>
Ever seen a trued Stevens shoot? I've gotten my hands dirty on all of the actions mentioned above and made rifles that shoot very well from each and every one. The individual actions require slightly different things for each, but when it's all done, the way they shoot and function are on par with each other.
One of the first projects that I did was to take a free MN 91/30 receiver and rebarrel it with a 22-250. It's a single shot and has a horridly ugly scope mount, but my dad still uses it for shooting woodchucks are what should be insane ranges for a "POS Nagant".
I have built several mausers from surplus actions, my personal 30-06 on a k98 action was used for whacking plates up to, and including a mile target 2 weeks ago, it's hit an awful lot of 0.75-2 MOA steel plates in the 4 digit yard range.
Another mauser I built is a 6.5-06 for a friend, he's broken 100 with it on Tom Sarver's Intimidator.
Be careful where your allegiances lie, just because the internet says the Rem 700 is king of the hill for factory actions doesn't mean nothing else works, or that the statement is even close to true. This is the same internet that says a 308 is ballistically superior to a 30-06... </div></div>
Ah yeah!!... But that same public will pay that apprentice gunsmith more for the completed gun project based on a ...Rem 700.
I think that the project will be up for sale at some point and mauser, stevens, etc.,etc., will go out the ear of most buyers. Rem 700, every buyer can deal with that known quantity.
Since the thread is "Best Budget Action" and most buyers cannot evaluate a "POS Nagant" on the gun rack. For its unknown accuracy potential. Go with a 700.
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LWILLIAMS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions. </div></div>
Ever seen a trued Stevens shoot? I've gotten my hands dirty on all of the actions mentioned above and made rifles that shoot very well from each and every one. The individual actions require slightly different things for each, but when it's all done, the way they shoot and function are on par with each other.
One of the first projects that I did was to take a free MN 91/30 receiver and rebarrel it with a 22-250. It's a single shot and has a horridly ugly scope mount, but my dad still uses it for shooting woodchucks are what should be insane ranges for a "POS Nagant".
I have built several mausers from surplus actions, my personal 30-06 on a k98 action was used for whacking plates up to, and including a mile target 2 weeks ago, it's hit an awful lot of 0.75-2 MOA steel plates in the 4 digit yard range.
Another mauser I built is a 6.5-06 for a friend, he's broken 100 with it on Tom Sarver's Intimidator.
Be careful where your allegiances lie, just because the internet says the Rem 700 is king of the hill for factory actions doesn't mean nothing else works, or that the statement is even close to true. This is the same internet that says a 308 is ballistically superior to a 30-06... </div></div>
I would recommend something similar as well. Get a Mosin rifle for the action, they're cheap less than $100 (or maybe an Enfield). First, if you make a grave error, you haven't lost anything. Second, you're challenging yourself by working with something unconventional. Skill isn't just going through the motions, it's going through the math and the "why" and the theory & principles. There's lots of data, tools, fixtures, jigs for the Rem 700, not much for the Mosin. Cutting metric threads or Whitworth threads, making tools and overcoming obstacles demonstrates comprehension of the skills & principles.
Secondly, when you've completed the job and you can demonstrate, on paper, the accuracy obtained from starting with a "$100 piece of crap rifle" it shows that you are doing more than simply assembling a collection of parts, it demonstrates that you are capable of making that collection of parts work in unison to achieve exceptional performance.
It's like the difference between putting a $5000 custom rifle in the hands of an amateur and getting a "pattern" and stock off the shelf rifle in the hands of a skilled rifleman and getting a group.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LWILLIAMS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow smokins got sand in his vagina today. The OP started talking about a custom action but didnt have the money and people start throwing out stevens? I would take a trued rem any day over some of the for mentioned actions. </div></div>
Ever seen a trued Stevens shoot? I've gotten my hands dirty on all of the actions mentioned above and made rifles that shoot very well from each and every one. The individual actions require slightly different things for each, but when it's all done, the way they shoot and function are on par with each other.
One of the first projects that I did was to take a free MN 91/30 receiver and rebarrel it with a 22-250. It's a single shot and has a horridly ugly scope mount, but my dad still uses it for shooting woodchucks are what should be insane ranges for a "POS Nagant".
I have built several mausers from surplus actions, my personal 30-06 on a k98 action was used for whacking plates up to, and including a mile target 2 weeks ago, it's hit an awful lot of 0.75-2 MOA steel plates in the 4 digit yard range.
Another mauser I built is a 6.5-06 for a friend, he's broken 100 with it on Tom Sarver's Intimidator.
Be careful where your allegiances lie, just because the internet says the Rem 700 is king of the hill for factory actions doesn't mean nothing else works, or that the statement is even close to true. This is the same internet that says a 308 is ballistically superior to a 30-06... </div></div>
I would recommend something similar as well. Get a Mosin rifle for the action, they're cheap less than $100 (or maybe an Enfield). First, if you make a grave error, you haven't lost anything. Second, you're challenging yourself by working with something unconventional. Skill isn't just going through the motions, it's going through the math and the "why" and the theory & principles. There's lots of data, tools, fixtures, jigs for the Rem 700, not much for the Mosin. Cutting metric threads or Whitworth threads, making tools and overcoming obstacles demonstrates comprehension of the skills & principles.
Secondly, when you've completed the job and you can demonstrate, on paper, the accuracy obtained from starting with a "$100 piece of crap rifle" it shows that you are doing more than simply assembling a collection of parts, it demonstrates that you are capable of making that collection of parts work in unison to achieve exceptional performance.
It's like the difference between putting a $5000 custom rifle in the hands of an amateur and getting a "pattern" and stock off the shelf rifle in the hands of a skilled rifleman and getting a group.
Re: Best Budget Action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phil1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ah yeah!!... But that same public will pay that apprentice gunsmith more for the completed gun project based on a ...Rem 700.</div></div>
Ask any used car salesman, more profit in polishing turds.
The Howa is plenty strong enough for Weatherby to chamber their 65K psi 300 Wby mag. Also good enough for some of Nosler's high dollar offerings. I know a couple of gunsmiths who cringe at the thought of machine work on the Howa casting. Mr Kampfeld charges me extra to flute a bolt due to added tool wear over the R700. Try to find someone to install a side bolt stop.
Under excessive pressure, maybe the softer Remy bar stock swells better over a casting???
It would interesting to see a head to head experiment over-pressurizing the Winchester forging, Remy and Savage bar stock along with Howa and Ruger castings.
A real value IMHO is buy the Howa heavy for $375, pull the hammer forged barrel. You can sell it or use it. Derrick Martin spun mine onto my DPMS.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phil1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ah yeah!!... But that same public will pay that apprentice gunsmith more for the completed gun project based on a ...Rem 700.</div></div>
Ask any used car salesman, more profit in polishing turds.
The Howa is plenty strong enough for Weatherby to chamber their 65K psi 300 Wby mag. Also good enough for some of Nosler's high dollar offerings. I know a couple of gunsmiths who cringe at the thought of machine work on the Howa casting. Mr Kampfeld charges me extra to flute a bolt due to added tool wear over the R700. Try to find someone to install a side bolt stop.
Under excessive pressure, maybe the softer Remy bar stock swells better over a casting???
It would interesting to see a head to head experiment over-pressurizing the Winchester forging, Remy and Savage bar stock along with Howa and Ruger castings.
A real value IMHO is buy the Howa heavy for $375, pull the hammer forged barrel. You can sell it or use it. Derrick Martin spun mine onto my DPMS.
Re: Best Budget Action
Hey, that Case rupture Pic, with using an AR15 Extractors cut in Howa Bolt head .
Looks just like a <span style="font-style: italic">(except for cal. size)</span> a .556 Case, that has ruptured & ripped-out the Extractor on an AR15 Bolt . With a falure w/ big over-pressure .
"dont ask me how I know " ...
.
.
Hey, that Case rupture Pic, with using an AR15 Extractors cut in Howa Bolt head .
Looks just like a <span style="font-style: italic">(except for cal. size)</span> a .556 Case, that has ruptured & ripped-out the Extractor on an AR15 Bolt . With a falure w/ big over-pressure .
"dont ask me how I know " ...
.
.
