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Gunsmithing Best way to beef up/ add weight to rifle
- Thread starter arm017
- Start date
But it hasn't shown up on the exchange in a while...
Yes; but you may also want to be able to remove it, too.
I line the cavity with a plastic barrier, like plastic wrap or a thin plastic bag, and fill that with the shot/resin mixture. As long as the filler does not harden to form a mechanical lock with the cavity, it can be removed.
If you use plumber's putty, the mixture can be rolled like dough inside the barrier/bag, then applied as a sheet.
Another thing, the weight does not need to be lead, you can also use Bismuth. Not cheap, but not toxic, either. I used to use Bismuth shot for ballast in my Grandkids' Pinewood Derby cars.
Greg
I line the cavity with a plastic barrier, like plastic wrap or a thin plastic bag, and fill that with the shot/resin mixture. As long as the filler does not harden to form a mechanical lock with the cavity, it can be removed.
If you use plumber's putty, the mixture can be rolled like dough inside the barrier/bag, then applied as a sheet.
Another thing, the weight does not need to be lead, you can also use Bismuth. Not cheap, but not toxic, either. I used to use Bismuth shot for ballast in my Grandkids' Pinewood Derby cars.
Greg
My Son-in-Law used to work at a facility which packaged and shipped various rare earths. When they did a run of granulated Bismuth, he would collect some of the spillage for me, which would otherwise have been discarded. I'm aware of Bismuth; other metals are beyond me.
Greg
Greg
Their is always this method..steel shot.i've seen it done on forends with epoxy mix.
Powdered tungsten available through Brownells, mix it as densely as you like into epoxy, you'll get plenty of weight.
I didn’t see it mentioned specifically, but another route you could go is to attach steel weights to the exterior via the use of picatinny rails. You could use several sizes and move them around to fine tune balance, weight (specifically location of mass) etc...and then remove them if desired.
Unless your kids are going to pull the weights out and lick them there's not much threat of aerosolizing solid lead.
You can use lead wheel weights with self-sticking adhesive backing. You can put heavy 45 pistol bullets in plastic tubes and tape them inside spaces.
You can use lead wheel weights with self-sticking adhesive backing. You can put heavy 45 pistol bullets in plastic tubes and tape them inside spaces.
I've got 40kg of fine tungsten lathe turnings. They're more dense than lead (19 vs 11), so for some heavy but small weights, I make a mould and cast the turnings in lead. Seems to work. Tungsten ain't cheap though.
I’ve done this on a few rifles and it works well. Ran out of supplies last time so I used 2 part epoxy and lead fishing weights that I bought locally. Didn’t have to place an extra order that way.
yeah their weight system works phenomenally, and I own two of them. I would say on principal though, it's a pain to have to buy the entire $200 set for just the two up front for my (and most other folks I have spoken with) balance taste. I love the bravo chassis ergonomically though which is why I wanted to ask around to the hide. I am going to stop by HD at lunch today to pick up some supplies.
As some one who used to be in a lead monitoring program and received training on lead hazards quarterly, I don't think there is any danger from lead tape that is adhesively fastened to the inner fore end of your stock. This is also nice in that it can be removed or added too very easily. Unless of course you let your kids chew on your stock, in which case avoid this.
For the guys chiming in talking about using lead, another option would be lead wheel weights that are used for balancing tires & wheels. You can get the stick-on kind that use an adhesive tape (more common on motorcycles than cars). They usually come in segmented strips where each segment is a quarter-ounce, so you can fine-tune how much weight you want where. They also sell them in steel for anyone who wants to avoid toxic metals.
Of course, if we're talking a lot of weight, the wheel weight option might end up being too bulky.
Of course, if we're talking a lot of weight, the wheel weight option might end up being too bulky.
This is what my dad did to the single shot Winchester 370 I had to tote when I was 8. It made it heavier but it sure kept it from knocking me on my ass when I shot it. The loose shot works better for eliminating recoil too.
Same thing for the handguards only epoxied. But I've seen lead weights that are designed for it too. They make one that'll fit in the stock of an AR and another that fits under the handguard for example. So there may be something out there that's pre-balanced or whatever attributes you are looking for.
You can also just melt the lead and cast it in some cases.
With lead, the biggest concern for poison for the average person comes from inhaling the dust from a fired shot or skin absorption if the lead comes in contact with vinegar as one example, forming lead acetate. It does expel over time but it takes a long time and it's hard on the organs. Handling dirty brass is another good way to get exposed. What'd He-Man say, "the more you know" or some shit?
Apparently use of depleted uranium is A-Okay for use as a counterweight. There's up to half a ton in the tail section of a 747. I haven't seen it on the exchange in a while either!
+1
The dangers of lead in projectiles to children (or anyone in particular) are truly overexaggerated to the point of hysteria.
So is the "danger" of lead poisoning from cleaning/handling spent cartridge cases.
Sure; most stuff is exaggerated. I would be interested in more background and justification, as most of my concern is just from passed along lore. I am a primary care doc for my day job, and it was always just passed along that lead exposure in pediatrics is bad. No further research on my part. But in the realm of stacking exposures- the whole unless your kid eats it, is kind of applicable in my world...
I just emailed krg and talked them about a weight tuning kit. they said they have had some inquiries and are thinking about it. if they keep getting emails about it, they will give it a lot harder thought. *hint hint*
I've been messing around with it a couple weeks and keep going back and forth with what I want to do...
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...d-weight-to-their-bravo.6902409/#post-7244111
Come on Doc......there isn't much research to be done. Lead is not toxic until it enters the bloodstream. What are the most common ways that blood enters the bloodstream? Same as most pathogens: breathing it in (if it's aerosolized) or ingesting it.
Lead = bad is just as grossly oversimplified as guns = bad.
I'm not a toxicologist, or medical expert of any sort. But I was trained as a radiation worker (Navy) and the basics are the same except that lead (unlike radioisotopes) does nothing to you as long as it stays outside the body.
PS, buy your kid some chew toys so he leaves your bipod alone.
Come on Doc......there isn't much research to be done. Lead is not toxic until it enters the bloodstream. What are the most common ways that blood enters the bloodstream? Same as most pathogens: breathing it in (if it's aerosolized) or ingesting it.
Lead = bad is just as grossly oversimplified as guns = bad.
I'm not a toxicologist, or medical expert of any sort. But I was trained as a radiation worker (Navy) and the basics are the same except that lead (unlike radioisotopes) does nothing to you as long as it stays outside the body.
PS, buy your kid some chew toys so he leaves your bipod alone.
You'd be surprised at how much inbred oversimplification there is in medicine...
Or my favorite of telling somebody that cyanide is 'natural' when they want to opt for 'natural cures'
The question then becomes at what serum level does lead exert toxicity and pathologic results. And what degree of lead exposure is required to reach said threshold.
I'll look in to it.
So I think I am going to follow your lead with the lead tape/ wheel weights on the fore end and I am going to get a 12-14" arca rail and purposefully run it long off the front of the fore end and drill and tap the underside and mount a 1.5 lb square lead weight to sit between the barrel and that arca.
Any thoughts?
Ibe not looked at the arca rail up close but I like that idea. Reason why I like the weight more toward the front is to help “dig” the rifle into the Gamechanger. Then when I’m gripping the front end, Night Vision Rail, I’m not fighting the rifle lifting up bc it’s to ass heavy
Non-toxic stick-on wheel weights. Two Ounces per strip with 1/4 ounce segments. Sixty ounces total for $20.99.
Greg
Greg
Im planning on filling in the hollow buttstock of my bravo to add about a quarter to half pound. does the adhesive come off plastic easily? I would assume it fairly permanent if they stick it to rims without flying off, even though they crimp them on too if i recall correctly?
The crimp kind don't use the adhesive, and they usually attach by crimping on to the outer lip of the rim. The adhesive kind usually attach closer to the centerline of a rim. You can get them off with a bit of effort. Cleaning off the residue from the tape is another story. At least, that's been my experience on bare metal and painted wheels. Might be easier with plastic. Might be worse.
If you're doing a hollow pocket, like the buttstock of your KRG Bravo, I'd say you're probably better off sticking with lead or steel shot. Smaller shot will mean less wasted space and also better fine-tuning of the weight. Maybe put it in a ziplock baggie so it's easier to manage instead of just loose in the stock. And if it moves in there too much, you could also do something like some spray foam in the baggie to keep the shot from rolling back and forth every time you change the orientation of the rifle. Keeping it in the baggie also means you don't end up with nasty gunk all over the inside of your stock. Or, if you have enough room, just some chunks of regular packing foam packed tightly in to the hollow pocket.
Just some thoughts I had. Don't know if they work for you or not.
I've used fishing weights and wheel weights. Best practice to gain weight without rattling and lead exposure is to drill into hollow stock area and pour molten leaf in until you see it. Then top off with clear paintable silicon. For a stock like the krg I would look at the balance and intended usage. Then blend weight into the stock interior to gain weight without affecting bedding.
Depending on the thickness of the suspending material and just how much extra weight is being used, I think you could definitely see a difference in the recoil impulse.
As for harmonics, I think it could be an interesting experiment to see what effect different density filler materials would have on harmonics and accuracy. It would be interesting to see if you could delay or dampen the harmonics enough to where the bullet is long gone by the time the rearward impulse is moving forward again.
Why do I get the feeling that somewhere someone has been working on this for ages, while we are just starting to think about it?
Alright gentleman, this is my final product after messing around with going back and forth for 2 weeks. Adding weight to rear, grip, and butthook, I lined the cavity with Saran Wrap and took #8 shot from shotgun shells, and covered it with excess Saran Wrap. As for the fore end, I went from adhesive wheel weights, to double sided tape and Saran wrapped #8 shot, to now and ending with lead decoy weights from academy. 3.5 oz each strip and had to trim to fit accordingly. Double sided tape to channel. Good thing with this lead, it’s soft enough to cut.
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I only needed to cut the 4 middle strips off about 1/2" just because I couldn't get the plastic hand guard on. it's really soft, I was able to use some old pruning shears, but I'm thinking any sort of decent wire cutters would work fine. you will be surprised how soft this lead is bc when we use it for hunting, we are able to wrap the strips around our decoys keel or heads
Vortex HD Razor and steel rings on a steel rail! No Kidding- thats like 60ozs then add a heavier profile barrel.
dude!! Those are perfect in a KRG backbone (both under the plastic and the other side...). I picked up a set from academy, and everything fits in perfectly. I just fit placed everything, but once I have everything lined up, I was going to just JB weld them all together, but its a perfect solution for cheap. Thanks for the recommendation.
No problem man! Like i said, I worked on this for 2 weeks and I wish I would of thought of this first. Glad u liked it. Good luck. Send me a pic of your bravo later when u get a chance.
My recoil pad on my hmr is filled with probably 50 110gr 30 carbi e bullets lol! When I was adjusting LOP I looked like a squirrel jamming them all into the grooves and webbing lol
[QUOTE="arm017,
I want to avoid or encapsulate any lead based options.[/QUOTE]
I'm confused why you want to avoid Lead? Shooting has lead exposure... Lead sealed inside of a filler is pretty harmless.
Where will your bench gun be where lead would be an issue?
Typically there are Mercury dampeners that are typical in shorguns.
Other heavy options are Lead and Tungsten.
Hydrogen has a Molecular weight of 1
Helium has a Molecular weight of 2
Iron is 26
W- Tungsten is 74
PB- Lead is 82
Bi- Bismuth is 83
Uranium is 92
If you really don't want lead, then I would suggest the same process of pellets in Marine Tex, just use Bismuth shot.
https://www.amazon.com/RotoMetals-Bismuth-Shot-Reloading-Shells/dp/B071Z8CWNC
I don't know how much weight you want to add nor why you want to add it to the nose, not the buttstock. (easier to hold up when weight is near the shooter)
The flat spots under the cheek rest seem like an ideal spot to add 2 rectangle weights.
If a bench gun, you could make a bock that mates up with the bottom of the forend. If using a bipod, extend the screw so that it reaches through the block.
Build a mold from wood, wrap the mold and forend in saran wrap. Fill mold with Bismuth and marine tex. Lay and wiggle the forend into the mixture and let it cure.
I want to avoid or encapsulate any lead based options.[/QUOTE]
I'm confused why you want to avoid Lead? Shooting has lead exposure... Lead sealed inside of a filler is pretty harmless.
Where will your bench gun be where lead would be an issue?
Typically there are Mercury dampeners that are typical in shorguns.
Other heavy options are Lead and Tungsten.
Hydrogen has a Molecular weight of 1
Helium has a Molecular weight of 2
Iron is 26
W- Tungsten is 74
PB- Lead is 82
Bi- Bismuth is 83
Uranium is 92
If you really don't want lead, then I would suggest the same process of pellets in Marine Tex, just use Bismuth shot.
https://www.amazon.com/RotoMetals-Bismuth-Shot-Reloading-Shells/dp/B071Z8CWNC
I don't know how much weight you want to add nor why you want to add it to the nose, not the buttstock. (easier to hold up when weight is near the shooter)
The flat spots under the cheek rest seem like an ideal spot to add 2 rectangle weights.
If a bench gun, you could make a bock that mates up with the bottom of the forend. If using a bipod, extend the screw so that it reaches through the block.
Build a mold from wood, wrap the mold and forend in saran wrap. Fill mold with Bismuth and marine tex. Lay and wiggle the forend into the mixture and let it cure.
I have a B14 HMR stock and was liking all the ideas here and so glad I ran across yours.....did it work long term for you given the age of this post?
