++Bighorn TL3 Builds++

If anybody is running a tl3 in MPA chassis with NF 7-35 scope and arc rings i would appreciate it if you could tell me your ring height. I would like to order my rings as i patiently await my chassis. TIA
 
Just got my 6.5 Creedmoor TL3 build from Phoenix Custom Rifles. Specs are:

TL3 DLC coated with AW cut
23” Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel
Manners T4A in “Scorched Earth” camo
Badger M5 gen 2 bottom metal
Trigger Tech Primary
TBAC brake
S&B 5-20 Ultra Short
ARC rings

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Just got my 6.5 Creedmoor TL3 build from Phoenix Custom Rifles. Specs are:

TL3 DLC coated with AW cut
23” Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel
Manners T4A in “Scorched Earth” camo
Badger M5 gen 2 bottom metal
Trigger Tech Primary
TBAC brake
S&B 5-20 Ultra Short
ARC rings

View attachment 6947118View attachment 6947119
Looks awesome, Keith does great work. Keep us posted on how it shoots.
 
Recently moved to a LH TL3 on my match rig, had this rightie sittin around so thought WTF....sent it to Shaen Rifles and put it to work.
Bartlien 2B cut at 18", chambered 6.5 CM, 8 twist
Huber 2 stage
Mesa Precision DBM, Accurate binderless mags
Manners SuperLite
SWFA 3-9
9lbs on the nose all up with 5 in the belly, SilCo Harvester, and Rifles Only Skinny. Cunthair under 8 naked
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Where are the Big horn TL3s in stock? Just the action.

Core has barreled actions but the action only models have the helical fluting bolt know that im trying to avoid.
 
Finally caved and decided to post one my TL3 barrels for sale. I guess I won't have as many barrels as Reubenski or Padom now. :) If anyone wants to shoot 7SAUM hit me up.

Side note, I've been really happy with the Ross Vise after using it for the last month. It's made barrel swaps super easy. I also copied Carl's idea of using a bar in the MPA stock as leverage to hold the gun in place while torquing the barrel. I got a 1/2" thick piece of oak and did some quick sanding so it fits perfectly in the slot in the buttstock. It handles the torque really well and doesn't mar the finish on the chassis. Very handy way to hold the gun in place.
 
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Cut a 22BR for a short action and a couple 284 Shehanes for a long action yesterday.
 

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Where are the Big horn TL3s in stock? Just the action.

Core has barreled actions but the action only models have the helical fluting bolt know that im trying to avoid.
If you order an action from any of our distributors and don't like the knob that it has on it or would like to change a rail or bolt head on the action you can always get in touch with us to do so. We keep all of the parts to support our product lines in stock and have no issue changing new parts out.

Thank you!
 
received my SR3/Proof barreled action from Bighorn yesterday. Bolted it together last night and wrung it out today. 2 shots to sight in at 100, then 3 rounds at 200 for zero. I leave tonight for elk camp. Ol' Ray and Aaron cut it close, but they came thru in the clutch. Thanks again guys.

Easiest. Sight-in. Ever....

2 at a 100. Shot, adjusted up and right for a 200 yd zero. Shot, adjusted a bit more. Then fired 3 at 200. First 5 rounds outta the rifle....

100 yd, first 2


the first 3 at 200.




I think it turned out great. I shall name him Percy. Short for P.R.C. McBighorn. My new Irish stepchild.

 
received my SR3/Proof barreled action from Bighorn yesterday. Bolted it together last night and wrung it out today. 2 shots to sight in at 100, then 3 rounds at 200 for zero. I leave tonight for elk camp. Ol' Ray and Aaron cut it close, but they came thru in the clutch. Thanks again guys.

Easiest. Sight-in. Ever....

2 at a 100. Shot, adjusted up and right for a 200 yd zero. Shot, adjusted a bit more. Then fired 3 at 200. First 5 rounds outta the rifle....

100 yd, first 2


the first 3 at 200.




I think it turned out great. I shall name him Percy. Short for P.R.C. McBighorn. My new Irish stepchild.


Very nice looking build there, sir. I'd like to build a similar rig out of mine when I shoot out the barrel.
 
Does anyone else with TL3 with either the helical diamond bolt knob or the tactical bolt knob tend to bind when pushing the bolt forward slightly off axis from the end of the bolt handle? I feel like it's just my TL3 and it's not a detriment to function but it requires i manipulate it without error when trying to run it fast. Vice versa my dad's SR3 doesn't exhibit this at all it's extremely smooth.

I had the reciever DLCd and cerakoted the bolt with elite cerakote thinking the slight increase in diameter of the bolt body might help alleviate it. It's better but it's still bindy when it nears the mechanical ejector. I wonder if it's just mine. My buddies TL3 that is completely cerakoted in elite doesn't exhibit this. I haven't handled my brothers origin yet so i can't comment on it.
 
Two of my 3 TL3's exhibit the same binding you speak of. All 3 are DLC coated. (Serial #'s 16XX, 21XX, 26XX) The newest TL3 I have does not exibit the binding. BigHorn has actually altered the placement of fluting on the bolt to help alleviate the binding on the newer actions.

My original TL3 has actually gotten less prone to binding the more cycles I get on the bolt.

Older bolt is on the top and you can see how the flutes run on both sides of the bolt head retaining pin. Newest bolt is on the bottom.
 

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Two of my 3 TL3's exhibit the same binding you speak of. All 3 are DLC coated. (Serial #'s 16XX, 21XX, 26XX) The newest TL3 I have does not exibit the binding. BigHorn has actually altered the placement of fluting on the bolt to help alleviate the binding on the newer actions.

My original TL3 has actually gotten less prone to binding the more cycles I get on the bolt.

Older bolt is on the top and you can see how the flutes run on both sides of the bolt head retaining pin. Newest bolt is on the bottom.

I it almost feels like i have gunk on the mechanical ejector and it doesn't line up right with the bolt head causing a hickup. But it gets better with more use? I didn't now they changed the bolt fluting pattern. I just was watching Kcshooters video the other day and thought to myself, that my TL3 doesn't remotely seem as smooth as Jaclyn's. Granted she shoots a lot more than i do.
 
I believe it did get a little better with time. Of course I have had more time on the TL3's now and am probably getting more efficient running the bolt.

I originally thought it was the mechanical ejector as well and would try to put extra lube on it. Extra lube fir mor solve the problem. When I spoke with BigHorn they mentioned they were altering the fluting fo address the issue.
 
I it almost feels like i have gunk on the mechanical ejector and it doesn't line up right with the bolt head causing a hickup. But it gets better with more use? I didn't now they changed the bolt fluting pattern. I just was watching Kcshooters video the other day and thought to myself, that my TL3 doesn't remotely seem as smooth as Jaclyn's. Granted she shoots a lot more than i do.


Not dogging her ability to shoot, but it almost looks like she's holding the bolt knob in such a way that she can alleviate the binding. That, or she just holds the bolt knob weird.

Also, I realize they're sun glasses, but they're still eye pro. Yet she shot the whole stage without them, or any eye pro at all... Whatever makes you happy, I guess, but I sort like my eyes, since I've only got two and they're a little hard to replace at the moment.
 
Does anyone else with TL3 with either the helical diamond bolt knob or the tactical bolt knob tend to bind when pushing the bolt forward slightly off axis from the end of the bolt handle? I feel like it's just my TL3 and it's not a detriment to function but it requires i manipulate it without error when trying to run it fast.

My two TL3's don't seem to exhibit this behavior (both older fluting style). At full rear bolt position I have to either push right/away from centerline or upwards on the bolt handle to induce binding. Pushing downward or towards centerline does not induce binding. If I just pull the bolt to the full rear position then tip the muzzle down slightly from level the bolt just slides closed.
 
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My two TL3's don't seem to exhibit this behavior (both older fluting style). At full rear bolt position I have to either push right/away from centerline or upwards on the bolt handle to induce binding. Pushing downward or towards centerline does not induce binding. If I just pull the bolt to the full rear position then tip the muzzle down slightly from level the bolt just slides closed.

Yeah dads SR3 doesn’t do it either. In either receiver FWIW. Though he has a shorter bolt handle also. When i say off axis I’m meaning up/right causing the bolthead to tilt in the opposite direction as the bolt body braces against the reciever pivoting. I mean it almost has to be induced as i can run it fast but I’ll get hung or have a slight hitch if I’m not careful through a ten round cycle. Something i can’t do with my tempest or dads SR3. Idk I’m gonna keep working it and if it persist maybe contact the guys and see what they think. It’s not a major issue because i don’t run the gun in competition but i would like to alleviate that bit.

What lube do you guys run? I run CLP on my guns with lug grease on the lugs. Though my friend with the elite cerakoted TL3 just runs a type of grease on his action completely.
 
For 1 day matches/practice in non dusty conditions I use a very light coat of oil on the bolt body and lugs. This feels the smoothest to me. For 2 day matches or harsh conditions I run the body dry and grease on the lugs
 
Does anyone else with TL3 with either the helical diamond bolt knob or the tactical bolt knob tend to bind when pushing the bolt forward slightly off axis from the end of the bolt handle? I feel like it's just my TL3 and it's not a detriment to function but it requires i manipulate it without error when trying to run it fast. Vice versa my dad's SR3 doesn't exhibit this at all it's extremely smooth.

I had the reciever DLCd and cerakoted the bolt with elite cerakote thinking the slight increase in diameter of the bolt body might help alleviate it. It's better but it's still bindy when it nears the mechanical ejector. I wonder if it's just mine. My buddies TL3 that is completely cerakoted in elite doesn't exhibit this. I haven't handled my brothers origin yet so i can't comment on it.

I have one with the older bolt fluting and had the same issue. If there is any left/right/up play in the bolt working it forward it will bind. I have just learned to apply down force on the tactical bolt handle and it cycles flawlessly.

I have found the action getting smoother with time. I have ~1.2k live fire and ~3k dry fire through the action
 
Yeah dads SR3 doesn’t do it either. In either receiver FWIW. Though he has a shorter bolt handle also. When i say off axis I’m meaning up/right causing the bolthead to tilt in the opposite direction as the bolt body braces against the reciever pivoting. I mean it almost has to be induced as i can run it fast but I’ll get hung or have a slight hitch if I’m not careful through a ten round cycle. Something i can’t do with my tempest or dads SR3. Idk I’m gonna keep working it and if it persist maybe contact the guys and see what they think. It’s not a major issue because i don’t run the gun in competition but i would like to alleviate that bit.

What lube do you guys run? I run CLP on my guns with lug grease on the lugs. Though my friend with the elite cerakoted TL3 just runs a type of grease on his action completely.

I have tried lube, grease, lube+grease. To me the improvements were too small to continually do any of them consistently. I now just grease the lugs after cleaning.
 
What lube do you guys run? I run CLP on my guns with lug grease on the lugs. Though my friend with the elite cerakoted TL3 just runs a type of grease on his action completely.

Shooters choice grease, nothing fancy. Pretty much get a good light smear coating on the bolt then cycle a few times, then wipe most off with a finger tip just leaving a light film. It will attact a bit of dust but the gun doesn't seem to mind at all even in SUPER dusty match conditions. That's one thing I love about the Bighorn, doesn't bat an eye at nasty dusty conditions.

As far as the bolt, mine have smoothed up a fair bit since new, lots of live rounds and even more dry fire cycles on them.
 
I have one with the older bolt fluting and had the same issue. If there is any left/right/up play in the bolt working it forward it will bind. I have just learned to apply down force on the tactical bolt handle and it cycles flawlessly.



I have found the action getting smoother with time. I have ~1.2k live fire and ~3k dry fire through the action
I mean it hasn't been worn or anything i think two hundred rounds on it thus far? If that doesn't get shot like my comp rifle and i'm shooting less and less these days. I'll just keep cycling when i'm home.

I would have to agree with Sheldon that it only really binds when I run the bolt sloppy and push it off of centerline.

That's the thing though pushing from the end of the tactical diamond tends to force it off center. Something that is very hard to do with my tempest. I'm going to keep working it.



Shooters choice grease, nothing fancy. Pretty much get a good light smear coating on the bolt then cycle a few times, then wipe most off with a finger tip just leaving a light film. It will attact a bit of dust but the gun doesn't seem to mind at all even in SUPER dusty match conditions. That's one thing I love about the Bighorn, doesn't bat an eye at nasty dusty conditions.

As far as the bolt, mine have smoothed up a fair bit since new, lots of live rounds and even more dry fire cycles on them.

Gotcha i figured that's why the bolt body doesn't take up so much of the receiver for reliability. I'm sure it will be fine i'll just make sure to cycle it a shit ton.
 
So how does it work ordering a shouldered prefit from PVA? I want to pick up a 223ai barrel and don’t see any options for twist or freebore. Does each chambering only come in one twist/freebore?
 
Has anyone used Keystone Accuracy to spin them up a barreled action on a TL3 (or even Origin)?

I saw he offers both Green Mountain barrels and Krieger; what would be the difference between them?
 
Has anyone used Keystone Accuracy to spin them up a barreled action on a TL3 (or even Origin)?

I saw he offers both Green Mountain barrels and Krieger; what would be the difference between them?

I know @Sheldon N got one for a trainer, he mentioned it in this thread a couple pages back.

There are a couple guys I have seen use their product and have had good results.
 
Has anyone used Keystone Accuracy to spin them up a barreled action on a TL3 (or even Origin)?

I saw he offers both Green Mountain barrels and Krieger; what would be the difference between them?

Yea, multiple of both barrels for my TL3's. They both shoot lights out. The Green Mountain is a button barrel so it will crap out a few hundred rounds sooner than the cut rifled Kreiger. A buddy has won multiple local PRS matches with the Green Mountain.
 
Keystone spun me up a 20” 30 cal for an AR would absolutely use him again that barrel / chamber is excellent and just plain shoots , know it’s off subject but topic diverted to a keystone question...... back to bighorn now folks!
 
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