++Bighorn TL3 Builds++

No harm in getting the AW cut on your TL3, in the event that you ever wanted to try AW magazines down the road. If you get AW cut you can use either AICS or AW mags with no detrimental effects. I have an AW cut on my action and have only run the AICS mags and ARC mags.Both the AICS and ARC mags will run fine in either a Manners mini-chassis or a MPA chassis.

With the TL3, the ARC mags seems to be ideal. I've not heard of anyone with a TL3 having a feeding problem with the ARC mags. They run better in my action than even the AICS, no issues at all. With as small of a size difference between the ARC mags and the AICS 5 round mags, I would lean towards just buying 2 ARC mags and calling it good.

My AW cut TL3s run great with the ARC mags unmodified.
 
I'm paranoid that my thick tang TL3 isn't going to fit my 700 inlet MPA.

edit to add: Picked my TL3 up from MHSA today and went and zero'd at a local range. Nice little ragged holes. Can't say enough about MHSA. Finished weeks before their estimated time.

The thick tang tang fits just fine. All that worry for nothing.

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Lots of great builds here. Thought I would add mine. My TL3 is out for delivery to my FFL today along with my barrel from NSS so my picture is still missing the fun parts. 6.5 Creed to start as I'm just getting into rifle reloading. Long time pistol reloader and wanted something easy to start with that had lots of factory loaded options. Big thanks to all on the site as I have learned a lot already and I'm sure will learn a lot more as I get set up and running. Still undecided on the scope. Leaning to the Gen II Razor but open to others. Just watching deals at this point. I will post more pictures once I get it built.
 

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I got a chance to handle KRG recently and really like the vertical grip. For those that have handled both the MPA and the KRG, how does the MPA vertical grip compare? With the KRG I had a real nice placement of the trigger relative to the grip, just fit my hand.
 
You guys got the new bolts ? - i bought a spare bolt and Bighorn made a change, the male threaded part on the bolt is no longer there and its a female joint, and you buy a new knob with the male set screw - allows them to machine from a smaller dia. block of metal, and if you break it its now replaceable/serviceable (just replace the set screw). But your old knobs arent compatible. Love the new system however.
 
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I got a chance to handle KRG recently and really like the vertical grip. For those that have handled both the MPA and the KRG, how does the MPA vertical grip compare? With the KRG I had a real nice placement of the trigger relative to the grip, just fit my hand.

Ive had both, are you refering to MPAs "Enhanced Vertical Grip"? If so, they feel about the same, but the finger bump thingy on the MPA grip felt odd to me so i replaced it with an Ergo Deluxe. The MPA with Ergo Deluxe is SUPER COMFY to me, especially eith the thumb cutout in the MPA chassis. The KRG is good too, i like the thumb shelf and the finger placement is good but it felt too blocky for my taste
 
Thanks Sneaky, I've got a Sentinel Stock which I like a lot but still getting used to the grip. Had pretty good results with it today and as I use it more it should become more natural. Haven't owned an MPA or KRG but plan to, just a question of funding:)
 
Got the email today from SAC Dad's 6.5 SAUM is ready and set to ship today or Monday. Man does it look amazing...:eek: I think this is the first or second SR3 build i've seen.
 

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Got the email today from SAC Dad's 6.5 SAUM is ready and set to ship today or Monday. Man does it look amazing...:eek: I think this is the first or second SR3 build i've seen.

How is it feeding? You got the rem rails and feeding out a accurate mag? gorgeous man.
 
How is it feeding? You got the rem rails and feeding out a accurate mag? gorgeous man.

No idea, don't have it in hand yet. Those are pics SAC posted and sent me. Probably wont get opened till dad's birthday. Or i'll wrap it and go ahead and give it to him. His birthday is coming up in Nov. I've actually not loaded anything for it, haven't even gotten dies. Buying brass off a friend and need to get dies. I have everything else. I do have to put the Timney in it and put the LRHS on it. I have the modified brass from Copper Creek. I think it should be fine feeding wise here was my specs on his SR3


 

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Update

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im loving my setup. The throw is even smoother than it was new, after ~400 times dryfiring for practice. Already looking into another caliber to complement the 6.5 creedmoor I currently run.
 
Well i caved in today and ordered a TL3 from CORE. Didn't feel like waiting to see if i could sell some more stuff for the Mausingfield, had the action shipped to my local smith. Sending him my barrel next week, will hopefully have my short 6.5x47 before rifle season.
 
Whats the length going to be? Like the idea of a short 6.5x47. Thanks

Overall goal is a 10-12lb multi-cal hunting rifle that can still perform in a comp setting in the event my brother ever wants to shoot a match. I'm hoping for 2800fps with 123gr scenars. I really wanted to go 16.5 but i'm going to play it somewhat safe and stick with 18. Talking to Jedi 2800fps should be readily achievable with RE17, hell might be fine with RE16 or 4166. We'll just have to see. Hoping to keep it around 10lbs but idk how that's going to turn out as i went with a sendero/varmint contour all over again and my 5R barreled action in the EH1 with the Mini-chassis and LRHS was probably 12/13lbs. I plan to get the barrel spiral fluted like dad's at some point just to reduce the weight a little. I carried my 17lb comp rifle hunting quite a bit last year and it just wasn't that feasible. I mean doable yes, but say i got out of the stand and wanted to slip around holding it or what used to be my 15lb 308 sucked. Going to run the Omega on this time also versus my 30CB9 for more length reduction. Should be turn out to be a really fun build.

Hope to pick up a 6.5mm or 7mm carbon wrapped blank in the next year or two so i can swap it to a SAUM also.
 
I'm wondering if anybody else has problems with AW mags? I have a TL3, AW cut, AW mags, running 6.5x47. I have a problem where most of the time it wont properly feed the first round from the mag, and it jams the bullet up above the chamber. Whats weird is this only happens on the first round of the mag, and it doesn't matter how many round are in the mag, or which side of the mag they feed from. After the jam is cleared, every other round feeds just fine. I've tried running the bolt fast and slow but nothing works. I'm stumped. I'm also a little hesitant to play with the lips at all, because this mag works just fine in another TL3 in 260. Any sugestions?

Similar topic, how many people here are using the new American Rifle Co mags in a TL3? I have read about quite a few problems using these mags, but they seem to be related to other rifles/actions. I am strongly considering trying one of these to remedy my problems, but I don't want to sink another $70 into a mag that won't work. Thanks
 
When i get mine i'll try my AW in it, though i'm not planning on using AW mags in my TL3. Just not the biggest fan of 2-lugs and AW mags. I'm not saying it wont work cause it certainly will, you just have more purchase on the shell with a 3-lug bolt.

What's the setup? Maybe the mag is protruding too far into the chamber and the bolt face is contacting the cartridges too low. Could adjust the mag height by trimming the latch on the mag release.

Need to get your hands on another AW mag to see how it acts.
 
That’s weird man. I was thinking it was a positional issue. Have any AICS to try? If an AICS will run then a ARC will run. Once the ARC follower issues get ironed out there will be no reason to own AW mags outside of a 3-lug action truthfully. The ARC mags are the same size now iirc. Though the original prototype was like a third of an inch longer or something.
 
Right at 11lbs as seen. 9 without the bipod and can. I either lost the pins that came with it or SAC forgot to send them back so i've got to get a replacement pair from Bighorn if possible. Other than that i think it turned out wonderful Still wish i could've managed some more premium glass like an ATACR or TT315M. But the LRHS is no slouch for the money.
 

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Right at 11lbs as seen. 9 without the bipod and can. I either lost the pins that came with it or SAC forgot to send them back so i've got to get a replacement pair from Bighorn if possible. Other than that i think it turned out wonderful Still wish i could've managed some more premium glass like an ATACR or TT315M. But the LRHS is no slouch for the money.

Real nice hunter
 
Right at 11lbs as seen. 9 without the bipod and can. I either lost the pins that came with it or SAC forgot to send them back so i've got to get a replacement pair from Bighorn if possible. Other than that i think it turned out wonderful Still wish i could've managed some more premium glass like an ATACR or TT315M. But the LRHS is no slouch for the money.

What caliber?
And you are right. A 4~16x42 would set nicely on that rifle.
 
So i think i found the pins to the action. Either way i found some pins that worked. Camming the bolt down is smooth but stiffer than i'm used to on any action. Not that i have to overly force it, it's smooth just has some stiffness to it. So i figure the sear engagement on the Calvin Elite just needs adjusting. Figure i'd do what i did with my BnA which was backing the sear out until it wouldn't hold the firing pin and progressively re-adjusting it until it did so. Sear backed all the way out, like the screw is out of the trigger and no change in feeling.

Is this normal for bighorns? The pins i used where these, i don't honestly know that they are the ones that came with it but i assume they are, i can't remember where they came from.

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Those look like the same trigger pins as mine. Closing the bolt has a smooth camming feel like you describe. I didn't mess with the Timney CE sear, just dialed the weight to where I wanted it and called it good. Break is nice and crisp.

I don't think messing with the sear is going to do what you want, that just determines how clean/mushy the trigger break is inside the trigger. I think what you're trying to get at is trigger timing which relates to the position of the trigger fore/aft compared to the bolt cocking ramp and closing cams, etc. The only way to affect that is moving the trigger forward or backward or to start grinding on stuff on the bolt. You'll also hear this topic referenced to as "cock on close".

If you want to know how much cock on close your bolt has, just measure the firing pin protrusion out the back of the shroud and compare the amount of protrusion from the bolt handle up position to the bolt handle down position. Use the tail end of a set of calipers.

My TL-3 and Timney CE has about 0.014" of cock on close on the firing pin. The pin protrudes about 0.034" when bolt handle is up and when I close the bolt it measures about 0.048" protrusion. So the closing cams on the bolt are pulling the bolt forward against the trigger sear, compressing the firing pin spring an additional 14 thou when I close the bolt. I've actually never measured it before or thought it to be an issue. Bolt runs good for me.

I think the way that this is "fixed" in benchrest guns where then are trying to make everything perfect is to grind and shorten the cocking piece so the cock on close is eliminated, then also grind on the cocking ramp depth so that a full amount of firing pin fall is retained. So essentially apart from custom gunsmith work, the trigger timing is something that is designed into the action. That's were you hear the 50/50 or 90/10 or 105/-5 actions. That is just about when the firing pin spring is compressed - either on bolt open or on bolt close. Since mine has about 14 thou of spring compression on bolt close and there's about 250 thou total compression overall, that makes my action somewhere around 95/5.

All this is just academic discussion though... measure if you're curious, but otherwise just grease the lugs and go run the gun.
 
Those look like the same trigger pins as mine. Closing the bolt has a smooth camming feel like you describe. I didn't mess with the Timney CE sear, just dialed the weight to where I wanted it and called it good. Break is nice and crisp.

I don't think messing with the sear is going to do what you want, that just determines how clean/mushy the trigger break is inside the trigger. I think what you're trying to get at is trigger timing which relates to the position of the trigger fore/aft compared to the bolt cocking ramp and closing cams, etc. The only way to affect that is moving the trigger forward or backward or to start grinding on stuff on the bolt. You'll also hear this topic referenced to as "cock on close".

If you want to know how much cock on close your bolt has, just measure the firing pin protrusion out the back of the shroud and compare the amount of protrusion from the bolt handle up position to the bolt handle down position. Use the tail end of a set of calipers.

My TL-3 and Timney CE has about 0.014" of cock on close on the firing pin. The pin protrudes about 0.034" when bolt handle is up and when I close the bolt it measures about 0.048" protrusion. So the closing cams on the bolt are pulling the bolt forward against the trigger sear, compressing the firing pin spring an additional 14 thou when I close the bolt. I've actually never measured it before or thought it to be an issue. Bolt runs good for me.

I think the way that this is "fixed" in benchrest guns where then are trying to make everything perfect is to grind and shorten the cocking piece so the cock on close is eliminated, then also grind on the cocking ramp depth so that a full amount of firing pin fall is retained. So essentially apart from custom gunsmith work, the trigger timing is something that is designed into the action. That's were you hear the 50/50 or 90/10 or 105/-5 actions. That is just about when the firing pin spring is compressed - either on bolt open or on bolt close. Since mine has about 14 thou of spring compression on bolt close and there's about 250 thou total compression overall, that makes my action somewhere around 95/5.

All this is just academic discussion though... measure if you're curious, but otherwise just grease the lugs and go run the gun.

Gotcha, i talked to a couple of friends of mine who run Bighorns, they said that's just the way they feel. I fiddled with the trigger a little more and it seemed between it or me cycling that it felt better. This morning i added more lug grease and cycled it a lot. It was never really a bad feel per say, just different. Unlike anything i'd ever felt.

The BnA on my Tempest per their instructions had me adjust the sear until the firing pin would drop on close and progressively back the screw out until it held. So i assumed that sear adjustment was up or down but i can see where that would be wrong as the hanger on the tempest likely accounts for the sear protrusion into the raceway.
 
I spent probably 30 minutes working it, and then picked up our 300wby which is 700 KS Custom, from Remington's custom shop. Wasn't much difference in cock on close. I just must be used to working my Tempest. That or my 700 5R i just sold had that 1000rds on it and many more cycles and felt a little easier. Not too concerned. I do need fiddle with the trigger a little more on the overtravel.

My TL3 18" 6.5x47 should be ready in the next month i think. Kind of wish i would've sent it off to CCG to get DLCd and polished before getting it chambered. I know once i have it in hand i'm just going to want to shoot. Which i probably wont do until next year.
 
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I have a post 2014 ax chassis and am about to order a tl3 action.This seems to be the place to ask tl3 questions.Will it drop in or need any mods?Thick or medium tang recommendations?AW or aics cut?I don’t plan on running aw mags.Anyone use this setup with a mod 22 trigger?Thanks
 
I have a post 2014 ax chassis and am about to order a tl3 action.This seems to be the place to ask tl3 questions.Will it drop in or need any mods?Thick or medium tang recommendations?AW or aics cut?I don’t plan on running aw mags.Anyone use this setup with a mod 22 trigger?Thanks

Flip through the previous pages. I swear someone mentioned work needed to get the action to fit properly.

I have a thick tang, and while it fit my MPA Chassis, aesthetically it was weird. The fit is much better in my KRG W3, which has a lot more room around the tang.
 
I have a post 2014 ax chassis and am about to order a tl3 action.This seems to be the place to ask tl3 questions.Will it drop in or need any mods?Thick or medium tang recommendations?AW or aics cut?I don’t plan on running aw mags.Anyone use this setup with a mod 22 trigger?Thanks

Don't know about fit in an AI chassis, but I would recommend Medium Tang and AW cut. Thick tang has a weird square profile. Medium tang fits nicely in a R700 inlet but still has a good amount of meat on it. AW cut simply for flexibility. You can run AICS or any other mags in an AW cut, even if you don't plan to run AW mags. I have AW cuts in both of mine but don't even own any AW mags. I've been running ARC mags instead.
 
I spent probably 30 minutes working it, and then picked up our 300wby which is 700 KS Custom, from Remington's custom shop. Wasn't much difference in cock on close. I just must be used to working my Tempest. That or my 700 5R i just sold had that 1000rds on it and many more cycles and felt a little easier. Not too concerned. I do need fiddle with the trigger a little more on the overtravel.

My TL3 18" 6.5x47 should be ready in the next month i think. Kind of wish i would've sent it off to CCG to get DLCd and polished before getting it chambered. I know once i have it in hand i'm just going to want to shoot. Which i probably wont do until next year.

I'm not sure DLC makes as much of a difference on bolt close as it does on fore/aft bolt movement. Seems like the primary friction points for bolt close are actually in the bolt itself. The cocking piece riding on the rear of the bolt between the little notch and the cocking ramp, and then also the small notched lug adjacent to the firing pin spring that acts as the latch for locking the firing pin assembly in place internally into the bolt body. Both of those move against the bolt under spring tension so making sure they are clean/greased will help ease the bolt closure. That and 10,000 dry fire cycles. :)
 
I'm not sure DLC makes as much of a difference on bolt close as it does on fore/aft bolt movement. Seems like the primary friction points for bolt close are actually in the bolt itself. The cocking piece riding on the rear of the bolt between the little notch and the cocking ramp, and then also the small notched lug adjacent to the firing pin spring that acts as the latch for locking the firing pin assembly in place internally into the bolt body. Both of those move against the bolt under spring tension so making sure they are clean/greased will help ease the bolt closure. That and 10,000 dry fire cycles. :)

Oh i wasn't suggesting that it did, just rambling that i want mine DLCd. I'm a firm believer in the coating. Though i'd be lying if i wasn't tempted to try Cerakote Elite.
 
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im loving my setup. The throw is even smoother than it was new, after ~400 times dryfiring for practice. Already looking into another caliber to complement the 6.5 creedmoor I currently run.

Is that the Gen5 KRG Whiskey 3. Any dremel work needed for it to fit?
 
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:33.33333333333333% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BbAElZHA7IF/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Zermatt Arms / Bighorn Arms is now offering our TL3 and SR3 actions with the option of a DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating. Direct orders placed on our website will now be given the option to have the action coated at no extra charge or left uncoated as we have been doing all along. Zermatt Arms | Bighorn Arms</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by Bighorn Arms (@bighorn_arms) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-11-02T17:23:57+00:00">Nov 2, 2017 at 10:23am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>

Bighorn now offering DLC straight from the factory for free. Damnit to hell...this is why i need to stop early adopting custom actions. I've had to coat every custom i've bought now lol
 
But they didn't coat the bolt release! Looks funny to me that way.

Hoping to have my second TL-3 back from DLC coating sometime this month.

Are you still using CCG for your DLC? Someone had mentioned SAC and PVA both used CCG, but I know Josh had moved away from offering it. Was it just a wait time issue?
 
Are you still using CCG for your DLC? Someone had mentioned SAC and PVA both used CCG, but I know Josh had moved away from offering it. Was it just a wait time issue?

PVA coated my first TL-3, this second one I'm doing on my own through CCG. Can't say for sure the lead time is any shorter doing it myself, still haven't gotten it back yet.
 
Are you still using CCG for your DLC? Someone had mentioned SAC and PVA both used CCG, but I know Josh had moved away from offering it. Was it just a wait time issue?

PM Bighorn they will DLC it for you through their supplier for a very fair price.

If not going through Bighorn i've gone to CCG for two guns now and Chad does phenomenal work as far as i can tell. Good guy, quick turnaround (a month in both my cases), and quality coatings. I will say it's a little pricey but i'm more inclined to think that's DLC in and of itself than it is him.