++Bighorn TL3 Builds++

Just as an observation, and to save you from potentially making an expensive mistake if you're not aware, the way you have your torque wrench positioned with the barrel nut wrench is incorrect. Unless you've performed the proper calculations for using is straight like that, you're applying more torque than specified as a result of increasing your offset/leverage by using it straight. The proper method of using a crow's foot adapter or any other similar adapter is to position the torque wrench at 90* to the adapter and setting the torque wrench to the specified torque value.

In other words, if you've not done the math and adjusted your torque wrench setting appropriately, you're likely to overtorque that barrel nut by a significant amount, potentially damaging the action, barrel tenon, nut, or all three.

If you're doing the appropriate math (or if instructions came with your barrel nut wrench for a straight offset as pictured), then nevermind the above. Just wanted to help a fellow shooter avoid a twisted action or some other form of damage, if possible. ;)
Thanks for the warning. I did do the match for the extension. 70 ft pounds was the desired torque. With the extension my wrench needed to be set to 61.
 
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Thanks for the warning. I did do the match for the extension. 70 ft pounds was the desired torque. With the extension my wrench needed to be set to 61.

Glad to hear it. I was hoping my post didn't come off as "holier than thou" or anything, just trying to save others some grief. Glad it was received in the intended manner!

On that note, your build's looking good! I need to source another M5 Enhanced for mine still...
 
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Finally finished!! (but not really)

TL3 Long Action, DLC from bighorn
Proof Sendaro 26" 28 nosler throated for 195 berger
KRG Bravo (place holder for now, stole it off another rifle. Manners EH1 was ordered 2 months ago)
Timney Calvin Elite 2 stage
ARC Rings
Vortex AMG
YHM Nitro can

(I apologize for the miserable camera phone skills)


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I got her in my hands and will be shooting 6.5 and 5.56 tomorrow. I am really digging the shouldered BarLoc system. I’ll report more tomorrow. I would like to thank Jeremey and Josh @bohem at PVA for making this happen. I really appreciate their efforts in making this happen in such a tight timeline.

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I got her in my hands and will be shooting 6.5 and 5.56 tomorrow. I am really digging the shouldered BarLoc system. I’ll report more tomorrow. I would like to thank Jeremey and Josh @bohem at PVA for making this happen. I really appreciate their efforts in making this happen in such a tight timeline.

Obligatory picture:
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What height spuhr and what color MPA is that? I went with tungsten hoping it would be a little darker.
 
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Do you have a picture?

Best i could get with my phone.

Also saw mention of a regular 2-lug action wrench not worrying because of the mechanical ejector? So do i need to send the 2-lug action wrench i got from OTM back? I haven't seen the Bighorn action wrench in stock in forever.

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Anyone had there TL3 shave off some of their brass whilst extracting? Like there is a burr butting into the side of the rim of the cartridge and peeling back a layer.

Yep.. pretty common on mine (6 dasher). I believe it's the mechanical extractor cut out in the boltface that does it.

Was pretty annoying.. I've since moved to another action for my high volume shooing.
 
Yep.. pretty common on mine (6 dasher). I believe it's the mechanical extractor cut out in the boltface that does it.

Was pretty annoying.. I've since moved to another action for my high volume shooing.

I assume it’s an issue because i don’t recall experiencing this at all with dads SR3. Wonder if i should take sand paper to it or give bighorn a call? I’m about to send the receiver in for DLC regardless
 
I assume it’s an issue because i don’t recall experiencing this at all with dads SR3. Wonder if i should take sand paper to it or give bighorn a call? I’m about to send the receiver in for DLC regardless

I never did call them on it.. let me know what you find out
 
Will do. Just slid the 2-lug action wrench in there, mechanical ejector was in the way. Do they make an action wrench to facilitate the mechanical ejector or do i just have to take it out?

I have Bighorn's action wrench that has a cutout for the ejector, not sure if they ever update their website to show they are in stock or not, you could just give them a call.

Also, I can't really see what your talking about with the brass shaving because your pictures aren't focused. Any chance you could get one in focus, maybe from more distance? I am curious to see for myself what you are experiencing.
 
Best i could get with my phone.

Also saw mention of a regular 2-lug action wrench not worrying because of the mechanical ejector? So do i need to send the 2-lug action wrench i got from OTM back? I haven't seen the Bighorn action wrench in stock in forever.

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If you could get some better pictures of what is going on, we will be able to work with you. We have had a case before similar to what you are experiencing, and I believe it was an ejector slot issue. It's hard to see in your picture, but it could also be an extractor issue. Any chance you head spaced this yourself? Just trying to get an idea of what could be happening.
Thanks - Ray
 
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Yea, Bighorn has them, not sure if they are in stock or not, doesn't say: Bighorn Action Wrench

PVA makes one as well, but out of stock right now: PVA Action wrench

I've heard NSS has them as well, but I can't find it on their site. May give them a call.
Action wrenches are in stock. They were out of stock a few months back for a short amount of time, but we've got plenty of them and have been shipping them regularly.

Thanks - Ray
 
Really need to get it finished in black but this is probably the final configuration. Anyone know the turn around time of Bighorn's DLC? I can't decide if i wanna send the receiver to get DLC'd and cerakote the barrel. Or just do the entire thing in Cerakote Elite. Felt a friends TL3 with it it's pretty smooth, nothing like previous cerakoted custom bolt rifles i've felt.
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Hey Will,

I just received my DLC'd TL2's back from Bighorn, they turned out great. They only do black. I had wanted FDE, but Bighorn doesn't offer it and the cost from other vendors is quite a bit more epensive. Turnaround time was about 5'ish weeks, but I think it depends on when you ship your action to them and if they've already sent out a batch ahead of you.

Oh, and the "shaving brass" thing ?..........Remove the extractor from the bolt, use crocus cloth and Scotchbrite and deburr the inside edges of it. I had the same problem. When I first noticed it, I put one of my fired pieces of .223 brass into a Wilson case gauge. Wouldn't go all the way in......:unsure:. I looked closely and founds burrs on the neck side of the rim, which were large enough to keep the case from going all the way into the gauge. Lightly sanded down the burrs on the "test piece" of brass and it dropped right into the gauge, properly. To me, a very minor detail, easily fixed.

Also, I wanted to say what a pleasure it is to do business with the folks at Zermatt. Very, very nice people and great products. Will definitely use them on my next builds. :cool:
 
I have Bighorn's action wrench that has a cutout for the ejector, not sure if they ever update their website to show they are in stock or not, you could just give them a call.

Also, I can't really see what your talking about with the brass shaving because your pictures aren't focused. Any chance you could get one in focus, maybe from more distance? I am curious to see for myself what you are experiencing.

I'm going to find a better camera, phone couldn't get it. It's just a sliver of brass shaved off the rim.

If you could get some better pictures of what is going on, we will be able to work with you. We have had a case before similar to what you are experiencing, and I believe it was an ejector slot issue. It's hard to see in your picture, but it could also be an extractor issue. Any chance you head spaced this yourself? Just trying to get an idea of what could be happening.
Thanks - Ray

I did not, it was head spaced from the smith and shouldered there.

Action wrenches are in stock. They were out of stock a few months back for a short amount of time, but we've got plenty of them and have been shipping them regularly.

Thanks - Ray


Will do. I saw y'all had them back in stock but couldn't see if there was an ejector cut out. I'm going to send the regular 2-lug back to OTM and order one from y'all tonight.

Is it difficult to take the extractor out to see if there is a burr under it? Seems like it's happening upon extraction after firing. I'm going to look at our SAUM brass now but i don't ever recall having this issue with the SR3, could just be a small burr or maybe a piece of brass is lodged up under there?

Hey Will,

I just received my DLC'd TL2's back from Bighorn, they turned out great. They only do black. I had wanted FDE, but Bighorn doesn't offer it and the cost from other vendors is quite a bit more epensive. Turnaround time was about 5'ish weeks, but I think it depends on when you ship your action to them and if they've already sent out a batch ahead of you.

Oh, and the "shaving brass" thing ?..........Remove the extractor from the bolt, use crocus cloth and Scotchbrite and deburr the inside edges of it. I had the same problem. When I first noticed it, I put one of my fired pieces of .223 brass into a Wilson case gauge. Wouldn't go all the way in......:unsure:. I looked closely and founds burrs on the neck side of the rim, which were large enough to keep the case from going all the way into the gauge. Lightly sanded down the burrs on the "test piece" of brass and it dropped right into the gauge, properly. To me, a very minor detail, easily fixed.

Also, I wanted to say what a pleasure it is to do business with the folks at Zermatt. Very, very nice people and great products. Will definitely use them on my next builds. :cool:

Glad to hear it, i have a DLC'd SR3 i bought for my dad it really slicks them up.
 
To remove the extractor, you need a small pin or punch to press the detent and spring down to slide the extractor out. It slides easiest from outside to inside the bolt face for removal. Keep your hand over the extractor once it moves out of the way because the detent and spring have a tendency to fly away if you don't.

Thanks - Ray
 
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To remove the extractor, you need a small pin or punch to press the detent and spring down to slide the extractor out. It slides easiest from outside to inside the bolt face for removal. Keep your hand over the extractor once it moves out of the way because the detent and spring have a tendency to fly away if you don't.

Thanks - Ray
Thankyou. I just facepalmed looking at it. Wondering why i asked such an obvious question. I did check all or most of our SAUM brass from the SR3, no issues there. Looking for our SLR camera so i can get a decent photo. Just ordered the action wrench as i'm eager to get the receiver to you guys.

A little off topic what's the news on the Origin? I heard last night that y'all were ahead of schedule?
 
There's really not much news on the Origin at this point. The whole project is moving through the shop in different phases and nothing is "behind schedule" at this point in the game. I anticipate our initial due date that work orders receive of August 15 to be a good estimate of when they will be shipping.

Thanks - Ray
 
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Are the set screws just used to index the nut so you don’t have to use gauges on every swap?

Correct me if I am wrong @Kane0519, but the idea is to basically make it a shouldered barrel. Drill the barrel nut, then put the barrel on, put the nut on, and once you have head space set correctly you tighten that set screw down. Now the barrel nut won't move on the barrel. So when you take the barrel off, the nut stays in place and when you go to put it back on, you just torque it back down and head space is already set. Easier to do out in the field or at the range, don't have to deal with go no go gauges after its set.
 
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That was the goal I had in mind. Though I guess if you still need a vice and wrench a gauge isn’t that big of a deal. But still, it’s so simple I don’t see how it isn’t more wide spread.

Makes sense to me. I’m personally going with shouldered barrels and flats milled near muzzle. Just’s makes me feel a little better about it personally.

But if I was totally budget minded, I would definitely go the barrel nut/set screw path.
 
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Ok, one more thing..could you take a picture of your bolt face as well? It's one of two things and I've got a decent idea on what it is but seeing the bolt face will make that prediction much easier to confirm.

Thanks - Ray

Sure. Think it's pressure? I'm not immune to the fact that i'm running a stout charge with my 6.5x47, though it's often a norm among many 6.5x47 shooters, could just be the brass flow in bolt face under the extractor?

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It's what I thought...your extractor is bad. It appears that at some point the bolt was closed over a head space gauge. The extractors are not hardened so gauges have to be slipped under the extractor when used or the extractor needs to be removed before you use a head space gauge. I'll get a new one in the mail for you today.

Thanks - Ray
 
It's what I thought...your extractor is bad. It appears that at some point the bolt was closed over a head space gauge. The extractors are not hardened so gauges have to be slipped under the extractor when used or the extractor needs to be removed before you use a head space gauge. I'll get a new one in the mail for you today.

Thanks - Ray

I can't believe i didn't think about that. I have a video of the smith doing just that when he tried to match my chamber to my Tempest. I was freaking out when he did so but didn't notice anything upon originally using the action. Which admittedly my Tempest falls on a no go with minimal to no effort, which i attribute to it being disassembled by three different people after it's chambering. Though they're both very close, within 1-3 thou as i use the same sizing die for both chambers.

Thank you Ray, i really appreciate it. Holler at me if there is anything i need to pay.
 
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I can't believe i didn't think about that. I have a video of the smith doing just that when he tried to match my chamber to my Tempest. I was freaking out when he did so but didn't notice anything upon originally using the action. Which admittedly my Tempest falls on a no go with minimal to no effort, which i attribute to it being disassembled by three different people after it's chambering. Though they're both very close, within 1-3 thou as i use the same sizing die for both chambers.

Thank you Ray, i really appreciate it. Holler at me if there is anything i need to pay.
No worries! It happens. We'll take care of you.
 
@BigHorn / ZAI Team i posted this in the gunsmith section too. Just finished my build on a tl3 long action, I'm new to this. Gunsmith fit the barrel to the action, I picked up the barreled action from them and I put on the trigger and dropped it in the chassis.

Cocks and dry fires great. But had fail to fires on all live ammo I tried, really light primer strikes.

Anything I can try to troubleshoot before sending it back to the Smith? Was hoping to shoot this weekend.

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Probably pre mature, but in the future do you plan on releasing an origin in a long action?
It's going to depend on how much interest we have in it. A lot of the ability to keep cost down on the Origin is by limiting the amount of options we offer. There's always an option to make a long action, we just aren't ready to execute on that option at the moment.
Thanks - Ray
 
Is there a reason the extractors aren't hardened?
There was never an obvious reason that we could find for adding a process to another part. It's a simple part that doesn't take long to have a whole bunch of. Adding a process like heat treat would make for an additional cost and additional production planning.
Thanks - Ray
 
@BigHorn / ZAI Team i posted this in the gunsmith section too. Just finished my build on a tl3 long action, I'm new to this. Gunsmith fit the barrel to the action, I picked up the barreled action from them and I put on the trigger and dropped it in the chassis.

Cocks and dry fires great. But had fail to fires on all live ammo I tried, really light primer strikes.

Anything I can try to troubleshoot before sending it back to the Smith? Was hoping to shoot this weekend.

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The first question: what trigger you are using?