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Gunsmithing Bolt hard to move after Cerakoting...

Aimsmall55

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 23, 2010
2,712
81
41
Madison, Ms
Yesterday, I had a friend of a friend cerakote a stiller Tac 30 action , bolt, and a bartlein barrel. The guy is ok, and has been doing cerakoting jobs quite a good while. We in reality left the bolt body alone except for the handle, but when I got everything put back together and attempted to slide the bolt back Into the receiver it would barely move. After putting a little oil on it and working the bolt up down and back and forth it got a little easier. The lugs were completely safe from the cerekoting as they were covered. But I'm assuming that because the tolerances are so tight already in the action itself that the added 1/1000" or whatever of Cerakote has got it "too tight ". That being said , does this sound normal to you guys. I haven't played with it anymore and like I said it was loosening up some before I left. The job itself looks great... Armory Black barreled action in an FDE AICS. It looks very similar to the AIAW .308
But what do you fellows think?? Gun still good to go ??
 
A little surprising considering he didn't coat the bolt body but there is obviously too much Cerakote in the raceway. Usually the bolt contact areas under the bridge. You could carefully take 320 grit sandpaper folded to contact only the area(s) you want sanded and remove the Cerakote from under the bridge where the bolt makes contact. Be careful not to wander and it will be clean.
 
Keith is right. The way I address this is to take some gojo or fast orange hand cleaner and put a dab in the raceways and run htf bolt. I have coated the bolt bodies and actions and never a problem.
 
Thanks guys for your replies. I tinkered with it this morning and the bolt is still tight but has loosened up somewhat. I talked to one of my best builders and he recommend using a little toothpaste (extra whitening) and just running it over the area in question with a brush. You guys think the Gojo would work better? Seems like it would have a bit more grit in smoothing it out??
 
IMHO Stiller actions are too tight for this game, and I hear shortening the handle a 1/4-1/2 inch fixes the cycling issue, now that you have painted it, cycle it with extra lube until the paint wears off.
 
IMHO Stiller actions are too tight for this game, and I hear shortening the handle a 1/4-1/2 inch fixes the cycling issue, now that you have painted it, cycle it with extra lube until the paint wears off.

It's funny you say that Cobra, I thought about the abrasives and I thought about the action's cerakote inside the receiver. I've been working the bolt and its loosening up bit by bit. But ( this may sound dumb) my main concern is the lugs getting roughed up by doing so. I've kept the lugs especially lubed but it's still pretty stiff compared to the norm. What's your thoughts on the lugs getting FUBARED
 
Just another fix for your little mistake is to put a small amount of 500 or 1000 grit lapping compound on the bolt body, and work it back and forth. Take the barreled action to a parts cleaner, and wash it out really well using a bore brush to get all the lapping stuff out. Use compressed air to dry it, and it will run super smooth afterwards.
 
We use bake proof tape on tight tolerance actions like this defiance as a precaution.












That is amazing, very clean work.

Question, I have a Melonited barreled action. I'm looking to go away from the black but I don't wont the Inside of my action or bolt body Cerakoted due to it runs so smooth Melonited but I do want the exterior of the action, bolt handle, and barrel Cerakoted. Is this doable using that tape and if so can you PM a quote.
 
I had a similar problem but just kept cycling the action and shooting normally but made a point to wipe down the bolt every time to clean of the coating that rubbed off. It loosened up soon enough.
 
I have had the same problem with a TAC30 AW which is smooth as butter now - used some of the recommendations above.

I have a Templar V2 now that is very tight - cerakoted FDE. I haven't worked it loose yet.