Bore Tech Suppressor cleaner

Lunchbox27

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  • Mar 23, 2017
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    Been waiting a while for this since they announced it was in the works. Just ordered the two bottles to test out for now, but the full kit might be worth the price.


     
    Looks promising! I have been waiting for this stuff to come out too. I have been using CLR on my tbac cans and it works great but i have been looking for another option for my Sico cans.
     
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    Any word on how many cleanings you get from a 16 oz bottle?

    Is it one use or save and reuse?

    They say "safe" how do you dispose of liquid after use?

    I've been using CLP and have a big jug of used CLP I keep and reuse. Seems to still do the trick.

    The pressure cleaner attachment is very interesting, any videos of it in action?
     
    Thanks for posting that up, I was also waiting on Boretech to come out with their suppressor cleaner although I had forgotten lately. Ordered some to try on my sealed cans.
     
    My skeptical side is wondering if this is just rebranded Cu+2 and C4, with accessories and cleaning instructions.
    That thought too, crossed my mind. Im going to put it to the test. I have cleaned all my can with C4 before and while it does a really good job, it is nothing compared to CLR. Obviously CLR cannot be used on everything.

    I’ll be doing the recommended soaking with weighing prior and after to see how well this works. 16oz should allow at least 3 suppressor cleanings and this adds up if you are a stamp collector.

    Very few will spend the coin for the full cleaning kit so I don’t intend to use it for this test, just the soaking and see what I can get out by rinse and compressed air blowing it out.
     
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    That thought too, crossed my mind. Im going to put it to the test. I have cleaned all my can with C4 before and while it does a really good job, it is nothing compared to CLR. Obviously CLR cannot be used on everything.

    I’ll be doing the recommended soaking with weighing prior and after to see how well this works. 16oz should allow at least 3 suppressor cleanings and this adds up if you are a stamp collector.

    Very few will spend the coin for the full cleaning kit so I don’t intend to use it for this test, just the soaking and see what I can get out by rinse and compressed air blowing it out.
    Ultrasonic cleaner might be another step to go along with the soak and compressed air.
     
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    Ultrasonic cleaner might be another step to go along with the soak and compressed air.
    While I have one and have have used it with good results, I really just want to see if this product lives up to the hype and well…. price. Plus, one of my cans have aluminum baffles so not wanting to go that route.

    I can soak my SS cans in C4 for a good week and then run it through the ultra sonic for a few runs and remove a good deal of build up… and for way cheaper than the new Decimator product.

    I really just want to see if they have created a new Unicorn semen, or just snake oil.
     
    Ultrasonic cleaner might be another step to go along with the soak and compressed air.
    Anybody ever try an ultrasonic cleaner with a SilencerCo Chimera-300? I'd like to, but I can't get a straight (definitive experiential) answer from anyone on whether it will harm the exterior finish. Answers always start with "I think ..." or "It should ..." or some other non-experiential derivative. Still looking for that first person that says "I put my Chimera-300 into an ultrasonic cleaner using a solution of ___________, and this is what happened ... ______________."
     
    Subbed to see if just the juice works. I get the idea behind the wand but isn't that what Ray over at TBAC does for cleaning? Pretty much a long CLR soak followed by a pressure washer attack? I could probably whip up a "lance" on a CNC with radially drilled holes to direct the water out at a 90 degree angle to the stem to scour the baffles and break up and flush away the carbon. $249.00 seems steep.
     
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    Subbed to see if just the juice works. I get the idea behind the wand but isn't that what Ray over at TBAC does for cleaning? Pretty much a long CLR soak followed by a pressure washer attack? I could probably whip up a "lance" on a CNC with radially drilled holes to direct the water out at a 90 degree angle to the stem to scour the baffles and break up and flush away the carbon. $249.00 seems steep.
    I will buy a lance from you if you make them.
     
    Any word on how many cleanings you get from a 16 oz bottle?

    Is it one use or save and reuse?
    "Q: Can I reuse the cleaner?
    A: No, it is not recommend to reuse the cleaner. Once you see how dirty the solution becomes you will understand why!"

    I assume the size of the suppressor will determine the number of cleanings.
     
    I could probably whip up a "lance" on a CNC with radially drilled holes to direct the water out at a 90 degree angle to the stem to scour the baffles and break up and flush away the carbon. $249.00 seems steep.

    Let me know if you do any of those. Not sure if a water hose has enough pressure but I assume it would.
     
    I will buy a lance from you if you make them.
    I'll let you know! Want to see if one of my customers can make me a stainless hardline with the required fitting (pressure washers can be weird) and double flair. I would think I could tig the end shut (just melt it closed) and then drill 1/16" holes or something. Seems like the volume of a regular water hose at, say 50 PSI, would be pretty good pressure increase thru a 1/16" hole. As for the juice... Might be C4 and Cu2+ in a more concentrated form?
     
    Does anyone know a source for Silicone plugs? (for the bore) Various apertures...


    Check out McMaster Carr. They should have what you are looking for. I use a squishy ear plug FWIT...
     
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    I have often thought of trying to rig up a Waterpik full of CLR and make some kind of wand with a tip angled to match cone angles, but have never gotten around to it. Anyone try anything like it?
     
    In for the information. I just ordered some boretech cleaning supplies last night and saw this. Didn’t know if I wanted to get just the cleaner or the kit. Right now I will just just the carbon remover that I have been using until some more information comes in. I don’t clean my suppressor that often so I can wait.
     
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    I have been running straight clr soak. It works, but is slow. Plugging the can with an ear plug. Pretty sure the CLR is why my end cap is getting a blown out hole.
    I’m pretty willing to bet it has more to do with 20k psi of hot gas plasma shit and grit running through it every time you pull the trigger.
     
    43FC8D89-DC53-4168-9312-642441365473.jpeg
    Finally testing this shit out. Using only the Two solutions, no lance/pressure washer.

    Two hours in, the level has dropped a good 1/2” and it looks like some of the carbon has turned into brownie mix. I’ll post what is dumped out tomorrow before I rinse and go to Part B.

    Update 1: 24 hours after part A soak, I dumped and rinsed well, followed by blowing out with a compressor. A lot of carbon came out, but you can still see a bunch on the inner baffles, as well as some thicker caked layers in the blast chamber. I can see the value of the pressure washing lance. I did order a few steel brush pipe cleaners to help get into the baffles and dislodge. Update tomorrow with what part B does.

    Update 2: I just ordered the full kit. Expensive as fuck, but it’s for science.

    Update 3: just finished with the Part B cycle. 14 hours through and I was beginning to think this part was worthless. The solution color was dark, but had not gotten any darker. However, once I dumped it and started rinsing…. The amount of shit that flowed out surprised me. Thick chunks of carbon fell out. I rinsed for about 10 mins, then hit the blast and exit chambers with a plastic pick. It was effortless to remove any thick chunks remaining.

    I will say, this Part A and Part B of the Decimator solution appears to be stronger than what Bore Tech C4 is. I had to go through what was 2-3 cycles of 24 hour soaks (with C4) to get this level of removal. After blowing out the can with my compressor I weighed the can. I got out .34oz of carbon. Not bad at all.

    Lessons learned: plug the exit cap with the cork/plug, not the blast side where it threads on. I had a lot of leaking (during Part A) which I attribute to the plug not sealing enough in the threads. Also, highly recommend ( if you can remove the exit cap ) to wrap the threads in plumbing tape. I had zero leakage this way.

    This was NOT a free product for review. I spent my own money on this. I also just bought the full kid with flushing lance that I will test on another suppressor when that arrives, as well as the one I did today to see if I can take out any more.
     
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    While expensive, if it works like it's supposed to I can absolutely see spending the coin on it. Considering how many folks here (self included) are all about accuracy, and irregular carbon build-up in supressors can affect that just like a badly cut muzzle crown.
     
    Long time ago I cleaned or tried to clean my suppressors with CLR in a ultrasonic. I ended up straining the CLR with a coffee filter. It was wild seeing a ball of carbon form on the coffee filter. It doesn't get it all, but most of it.
     
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    ASE Utra (Suppressor Company from Finland) recommend this product for cleaning their cans
    Not sure if it's available in the States but sounds like a much easier solution.

    ASE recommend weighing the suppressor to gauge if it needs cleaning or not, with every 100 rounds creating roughly 1gr of carbon build up.
    Weighing is certainly the easiest way of determining the level of fouling.
     
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    Would love to do a chemical breakdown on this Bore Tech Suppressor Cleaner and see if it's just "Repackaged C4".
    It could be, but I’ll save that test for someone smarter than I.

    I have cleaned my cans before with C4, but it did take many more 24 hour soaks to really break up and get out what I saw with this test.

    Now, what would be interesting is if C4 works just as well (if kept up on cleaning) and using the pressure washing lance. My issue previously ( and why SilencerCo Re-cored my Omega) was that there was way too much carbon that couldn’t be reached on the inner baffles.

    That said, if C4 works well with the lance, going that route for future cleanings is way cheaper. $16 a bottle for C4 versus $60 for a bottle of Part A and Part B.
     
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    It could be, but I’ll save that test for someone smarter than I.

    I have cleaned my cans before with C4, but it did take many more 24 hour soaks to really break up and get out what I saw with this test.

    Now, what would be interesting is if C4 works just as well (if kept up on cleaning) and using the pressure washing lance. My issue previously ( and why SilencerCo Re-cored my Omega) was that there was way too much carbon that couldn’t be reached on the inner baffles.

    That said, if C4 works well with the lance, going that route for future cleanings is way cheaper. $16 a bottle for C4 versus $60 for a bottle of Part A and Part B.
    What is a pressure washing lance ... please share ... never heard of that.
     
    While I have one and have have used it with good results, I really just want to see if this product lives up to the hype and well…. price. Plus, one of my cans have aluminum baffles so not wanting to go that route.

    I can soak my SS cans in C4 for a good week and then run it through the ultra sonic for a few runs and remove a good deal of build up… and for way cheaper than the new Decimator product.

    I really just want to see if they have created a new Unicorn semen, or just snake oil.
    Just an FYI. You can use an ultrasonic cleaner with aluminum. The only caveat is that you have to use a cleaning solution that is deemed safe for aluminum. Most of your standard US cleaning solutions will say to not use with aluminum in the US cleaner. That’s specific to the solution used and not to US cleaners and aluminum in general.

    We used ultrasonic cleaners to clean aluminum mist precipitators all of the time, but we used the proper solution for aluminum.
     
    Any word on disposal of the contaminated solution?
    I think that it is important that people differentiate between centerfire and rimfire when regarding suppressor cleaning and solution disposal. It is known that one of the biggest problems with rimfire suppressor cleaning is the atomized lead buildup that ends up in the solution. With centerfire, this is not the issue. It is almost all carbon buildup in a centerfire can, assuming that you are not using cast lead projectiles.

    It’s not the solution itself that is the problem, it’s the lead in the solution from rimfire cans.
     
    View attachment 7773983Thanks, Lash!

    I believe I can use this with Aluminum in my Ultra Sonic, but never got around to testing it.
    I use regular simple green (full strength) in my ultrasonic when cleaning aluminum and it works pretty darn good. Make sure that you read the contents and warnings carefully on the extreme simple green. I know that they make an industrial version that is not safe for aluminum in US cleaners.
     
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    Just an FYI. You can use an ultrasonic cleaner with aluminum. The only caveat is that you have to use a cleaning solution that is deemed safe for aluminum. Most of your standard US cleaning solutions will say to not use with aluminum in the US cleaner. That’s specific to the solution used and not to US cleaners and aluminum in general.

    We used ultrasonic cleaners to clean aluminum mist precipitators all of the time, but we used the proper solution for aluminum.
    Many solutions will have a warning to use or not use with ferrous or non-ferrous metals also.
     
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    65FD68F0-78F8-42BF-8173-C74E5505AB56.jpeg
    Full kit arrived today. Nicely packed. Impressed with the lance. The tip has 6 different holes (3 per side) in a cross direction to get a wide coverage with each pass through the baffles. As soon as this shit weather passes here in MD, I’ll hook up the hose and put it to the test.